Mark Shaw

Try here: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php

I have found that old bulbs simply do not last long... Convert to LED and you will see better and use less power.

This is the website where you can see several body styles similar to yours; all made in Cleveland OH. Perhaps one or two coach builders provided bodies for all the car companies in Cleveland? http://www.earlyamericanautomobiles.com/1902.htm

Al, The Standard Catalog of American Cars has a right side photo on page 309 marked 1903 Cleveland, Tonneau, WLB. Like one of these?

Al, If you ID the vehicle, someone here may have other photos...

I am clearly a prewar Buick guy. Just look below to see my collection. And I use a GMC Denali for my everyday driver/tow vehicle because it fits in my garage and rides much better than a pickup.

edinmass, No other truth has been better stated. 😎😎

Here's my half dozen: 1. Safety items come first. Work safe during restoration. 2. Make it stop correctly before making it go. 3. Lubricate everything that moves. 4. Replace worn suspension parts & tires. 5. Install safety glass and good mirrors. 6. Test drive before tours to avoid the trouble truck.

Paul, I encourage you to give them a chance. I am sure they will need to add more craftsmen to their team during the transition. Perhaps some of LB's personnel will relocate to Oregon. Otherwise, it will take time to acquire and train new people to do the jobs needed to keep up with demand.

Maybe do a tracing?

Greg, This is a shot from many years ago from the Puyallup WA All Buick Show. I have no idea if the striping is correct, but this is all I have.

Dennis, As long as you are patient, there will be opportunities to buy a replacement parts engine. However, you might want to contact Terry Wiegand about the company that plug sealed the crack in his engine.

Buicks came with firewall mounted oil cans for many years. It would be interesting to know how many years this was done.

Another early alternative to the vacuum tank was an engine driven air pump to pressurize the fuel tank in some production vehicles.

1933 Radiator Badge or Emblem

This was the photo we received from participating in the 2018 HCCA Nickel Tour with our 1913 Model 31 Buick.

Darryl, Maybe show the model and year of the Buick too?

https://smsautofabrics.com/

I finally removed the jammed tapered pin from the coupler and removed my S/G. I disassembled both ends to find out why it would not retract the starter gear. The long rod with the tapered end that actuates the brushes was jammed. A thin flat bar ("brush switch link") was bent, so it captured the rod & could not retract. I straightened the bar and re-assembled the unit. It now extends and retracts perfectly. It was a struggle for me to remove that heavy S/G. So, I will wait for help to re-install it. I just don't think I want to risk it without enough hands to help to lift it while getting everything aligned with the coupler etc.

My 15 Buick has the same door with a zerk grease fitting.

This is good for anyone with vacuum tank issues...

https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Graphite-Lubricant-TY25797.html

If he bought that from Pat Ferrell, I have some personal experience with that Stanley too. I agree with Bill's recommendations above. The Olympic peninsula is the favorite retirement area due to low rainfall and mild climate. Also, keep in mind that WA has no state income tax! That is one of the reasons I live just outside Vancouver WA with minimal traffic issues and just 15 miles from Oregon with no sales tax.

I am not a tapered pin fan either. I am currently fighting the tapered pin that backed out of the S/G coupler and jammed against the S/G body in my 15 Speedster. The tapered pin & hole have evidently worn over the last 100 years and caused it to back out while running. So far, I have been unable to reverse rotate the motor to release it. My next plan is to just cut off the jammed part of the pin and maybe make a tapered shoulder bolt or a tapered split pin to solve this problem.

No, you will need to remove the radiator. And you cannot run the engine with the timing cover removed without lots of oil loss. After removing the radiator, you may need to lift the front of the engine off the motor mount to remove the timing cover & inspect the timing gears.