Mark Shaw

I agree. Try driving some brass era Buicks and you will see just how amazing the technology changed in the prewar years.

Layman's Guide to NLGI Grades (thelubricantstore.com Nuff said....

I have this one available with a 2" connection size.

Yes, some coolant will remain in the water jacket "shelf" on the side of the engine. Many Buick engines have cracks due to plain water freezing in that area. After driving in hot summer heat, many cars require regular topping-off with plain water. This dilutes the antifreeze and makes it less effective. This is another good reason to fill your engine with 50/50 antifreeze instead of just draining the engine for winter storage.

It seems we have the same taste in cars (right down to the natural wheels on the 29), but my 38 is a Special. The 29-116 was a graduation gift to my son years ago. This 38 Sedan was also recently gifted to my son.

These should help:

No, but you should be able to do it yourself with new gaskets. Engine Gaskets for the Antique Market - Olson's Gaskets (olsonsgaskets.com) I suggest you try these before you give up and send it out: Just open it up & give it a good cleaning. Sometimes the lower flapper valve gets stuck or won't seal with dirt in the seal area. Make sure you have good vacuum to pull from the fuel tank with no cracks or holes in the fuel line. Use Super Glue or gas tank sealer to seal the lid. The pot metal lids are sometimes porus and will suck air.

I have purchased parts for car buddies at swap meets; only to find out their car was sold or not the correct model & year. Now I phone them if I see something they might need, take measurements, and/or send photos and ask what they are willing to pay.

I think there are basically two kinds of car people; show car people and people who like to tour with their cars. I am not a show car guy, so I belong to two HCCA groups that usually have two or three tours each year. I am not an AACA member because the NW area chapters are relatively inactive and are focused on local car shows and parades. It seems the vast majority AACA members are primarily focused on east coast activities because that is where most of the members live. So, until the AACA partners with other larger west coast car clubs, your expectations for west coast activities should not be the same as those held in the east.

The small engine was increased to 233 CI in 1935 and the others were replaced with a 320 CI engine in 1936. Continued change in the dimensions of the small engine continued through 1953, but the big engine's basic dimensions remained until the last was installed in 1952. The small engine was increased to 248 CI in 1937 and to 263 CI in 1950. The 320 CI engine is physically longer than the small engine, but the small engine has the same external dimensions, regardless of displacement, leading to a popular substitution of the 263 CI engine in models dating back to 1937. The small engine evolved from one producing 77 BHP in 1931 to 128 BHP in the configuration used in the 1951 and 1952 models equipped with Dynaflow automatic transmission. The 320 CI began with 120 BHP and ultimately produced 170 BHP. The performance increases were in part due to changing internal engine dimensions and compression ratios. Carburetion, valve operations, combustion chamber design and other refinements added to the improved performance. Straight 8 Engines (buickheritagealliance.org)

I have two cars that have total waste oiling systems. My 08 Model F Buick continuously drains used oil onto the road or the garage floor when running. And, my 13 Model 31 Buick dumps used oil into the pan which is manually drained every 2-300 miles. Synthetic oil would definately be a waste of $$ for these cars.

I prefer stiff paper with contents identified on the outside. I would still by see-thru plastic, but it affords no stiffness to keep gaskets flat.

We lost one of our club members who we often toured with on HCCA tours. Yesterday, I helped his widow get his 1921 large series Buick touring car started and loaded on an open trailer. A production company bought the Buick for scenes in the next Yellowstone sequel being filmed in MT. The truck driver was not very familiar with how to load and tie-down older cars, so I was glad to help.

I suggest you use lots of penetrating lube on the lifters as you hand crank the engine. Then, use a strong magnet to pull up on the lifters as you have someone hand crank the engine.

If there is a round bar between the front frame horns, it is a master series; No bar = standard series.

Make that Roller Lifters...

Check this out...: Installing Metal Valve Stems in Rubber Stem Tubes (sheepisland.com)

My best advice is to lubricate literally everything before trying to start your Buick. Put MMO in the cylinders, engine oil on all the valves and verify they all move with the push rods when hand cranking. Oil every rotating part you can find; even the door hinges need oil (It takes years to find a replacement). Door handles and the Buick "bow tie" reproductions are still available if you look via The Internet.

Search results for: 'knobby' (cokertire.com) Done in 2 minutes....

1928-31 Model A Windshield Rubber, T Style, Closed Car (speedwaymotors.com)

I need two wire wheel hub caps & throttle linkage. Please PM photos if you can.

You can also toss a few moth balls on your lawn to keep dogs from using your lawn for a toilet.

Commercial pumps for irrigation or domestic well pumps typically run around 80% at the peak of their performance curve. The overall efficiency of an automotive water pump is quite low and therefore not worth the trouble of making impeller clearance to factory specs. The relatively crude impellers used in most older engines could never come close to those efficiencies. Keeping the radiator and engine cooling channels free of corrosion and debris should be the primary concerns in preventing overheating. I worked for one of the world's largest industrial pump and valve manufacturers for almost 30 years. I suggest not wasting time trying to find exact specs to make such crude pumps perform incrementally better than they were designed to perform.

The answer will be a range of flow, not a specific GPM. Flow characteristics will vary primarily with RPM and back pressure from the radiator. I suggest you search for a performance curve online that is close to the size of your pump. You will find that there are too many variables to arrive at the specific GPM for your pump.

I have two here in the Northwest. One north of Seattle and one in Vancouver, WA. Let me know if you strike out back east.