Mark Shaw

I suggest you spray starter fluid or WD-40 around the inlet flanges while it is running. If it picks up speed, you have a vacuum leak.

I have radiant heat from PEX tubing in the concrete floor. My son and I did the two section layout before the floor was poured. 2" of solid foam insulation for two feet around the perimeter and against the forms to insulate the edges of the slab. Center of the slab is not insulated as the ground acts as a heat sink. Tubing, used water heater, and a TACO recirculating pump totaled just over $300.

Al, I have two Scheblers available: A Model RL (1 5/8" throat) 3 1/4" Center to center mounting & a Model D (1 1/4" throat) 23/8" mounting.

Layden, The Bosch impulse mechanism disengages at 150 RPM.

Possibly an alignment issue.

Buick used nickel inside and first used chrome outside in 1929.

I used Drano Drain Cleaner (lye crystals) hot water and 1/4 minus crushed gravel. Only took an hour to clean, but two days to dry in the sun.

Yes, cold rivets that require counter-sink holes for the heads and a special tool to set the rivets. I used a friends antique brake rivet machine that does the drilling and riveting.

Try here: Rand Broadstreet from Vintage Carburetor Ltd., 440-786-8141, www.vintagecarb.com.

Short and long fiber greases were sodium-based lubricants of the teens and 20's. Short fiber grease was specified for drum brakes and clutches that need high temperature sticky lube. Modern synthetic oils and wheel bearing lubricants are far superior.

Is this what you are looking for? Amazon.com: ACDelco Professional C3010 Engine Oil Filter : Automotive

If it has a separate head (not jugs), install the spark plugs, remove all head bolts, and crank the engine. Engine compression should be enough to separate the head.

1912 & 1913 were both Right Hand Drive. One set of pedals I have are from a 1912 Buick Model 34 Roadster.

Rod, I have two sets of Buick pedals. Top set measures 15" outside to outside on the mounting brackets (one side of the clutch pedal is missing. Bottom measures 15 3/4" mounting brackets.

I had a lost USPS small package. So, I filed a claim via the USPS website. It took weeks for USPS to finally deny the claim. It reminded me of this video:

I agree. We just need the diameter, thread pitch & length to find replacements. ARP | The Official Web Site (arp-bolts.com)

John, I suggest you post them here so more Buick restorers can use them: PBR@BrassBuicks.groups.io | Files

Champion W89D - Alternative spark plugs (sparkplug-crossreference.com)

Yes, I have heard this too. I have heard that the trunk actually sagged because the frame was shortened in the rear.

Check here for other foot rail and robe rail hardware: Catalog (antiqueautotophardware.com)

In 1925, Buick did use the 600wt equivalent lube oil in the rear end.

Most probable cause is rear end lube is too light (should be SAE 250 or 600wt). Second most probable cause is rear end is too full. Third " " " " is plugged drain tube on the inside of the brake backing plate.

My 1913 Model 31 Buick has been toured 2-3000 miles annually for the last 30+ years. The MMO gas mix has always been in the tank when my father toured and for the last 20 years that I have toured with this car. It has never had a stuck valve; even after my father had a complete engine rebuild done. Several years ago, I was invited to drive another bigger Model 17 Buick on the Gas & Brass Tour of the great lodges of New England. Evidently the owner's daughter forgot to add MMO at the previous fuel stop. That car developed a stuck valve that resolved itself after MMO was added at the next fuel fill-up. I shifted down for a relatively steep downhill section that put enough back pressure on the engine to release the stuck valve. The owner was the one that taught me to use airline booze bottles to add measured amounts of MMO to the fuel. All my cars have been upgraded to use modern fuel with ethanol because you can't always find non-ethanol fuel when touring in different locations. Ethanol fuels provide much less lubrication than non-ethanol fuels, so adding a little MMO or other mixed gas lubrication is even more important. I also treat with Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer when my cars are prepared for winter storage.

MMO can also be added directly to your gasoline. Any small engine oil mix will do too. I use one airline booze bottle of MMO for every ten gallons while filling up my older cars.