carbking

It is possible that too much heat did exist when the heat riser valve was stuck closed, causing the intake manifold to crack. Pulling the manifold and magnifluxing may be the only way to prove/disprove this issue. As to the fuel leak by the ends of the throttle shafts, this is a very common problem today, especially with those who actually look at their engine. Those that do not look at their engine, and wear too much body perfume, don't realize they have the problem: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Fuelleak It should not be leaking while the engine is running. Jon.

This link might be of interest: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm The fifth paragraph describes the need for the tube coming out of the airhorn (to provide filtered air to the automatic choke). You fellows changing to an electric choke: KEEP THE HOT AIR CHOKE COMPONENTS SO YOU CAN CHANGE IT BACK WHEN YOU GET TIRED OF THE ENGINE STALLING!!! With a performance manifold (and other performance modifications) on my own car, there was no provision for a hot air choke, so I installed an electric. I ended up changing it to a manual choke because of driveability problems with the electric, and I have a manual transmission! Problem solved! Jon.

Among the factory Pontiac Shop manual, the Pontiac Service Craftsman News, and the Pontiac illustrated Master Parts Manual, you should have just about all the information you would need. Jon.

Cowboy - Carter made 128 different W-1 carbs. From memory (generally a very bad idea ) there are at least 4 different bowl cover gaskets, at least 3 different brackets, and at least 2 different throttle connector rods. Jon.

Assuming (I don't know) these are round washers and that you can find a standard steel washer of the correct thickness and inner diameter, and larger outer diameter: Make a fixture for your lathe with a boss to chuck, a "round area" about 0.003 less than the I.D. as long as needed, and a threaded end. Put how ever many washers on the fixture, tighten a nut on the end, and make a pass with the cutting tool to redo the outer diameter. Now you are ready to finish the washers. Jon.

The metering jet is the two-stage type, with 3 number 67 constant feeds, and a number 44 main orifice. (Drill sizes). The metering rod is a three-stage. Low vacuum 0.040, mid-range 0.066, and high vacuum 0.074. The metering rod adjustment gauge is T109-26. While it is possible you have the wrong main jet, or metering rod, or the metering rod is out of adjustment; MUCH MORE LIKELY on a W-1 that there is wear in the linkage connecting the throttle with the metering rod. The round hole in the bracket wears to an oval shape, a groove wears in the rod, and this causes the geometry of the metering rod to be out of synchronization with the throttle EVEN WHEN THE METERING ROD IS PERFECTLY ADJUSTED. If this condition is present, the solution is to replace the bracket and throttle connecting rod. Jon.

While Marvels are not my favorite carburetor by any description, perhaps this link will help those of you that try to make a Marvel function as a carburetor: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Marvel_rebuilding_specs.htm Please note the dimensions, especially the float setting dimensions MAY differ from those in your factory shop manual. I went through the various bulletins, and Marvel CHANGED the float settings, some as many as twice. Those listed are the latest data that I have. ALso please note that fuel characteristics are markedly different from the fuel when these specification were originally printed. The reader should regard these dimensions as a STARTING adjustment. Dimensions are in thousandths of an inch. For those of you that use the metric system 0.001 inch = 0.00254 centimeter. And yes, I know some units are not listed. I listed everything that I have. As with any data posted on my website, this data may be downloaded and/or copied. I would appreciate a credit if you do so. Jon.

With no offense meant: Many conditions are called "vapor lock"; a few actually are vapor lock. Perhaps if you described your symptoms, someone here might have suggestions. Jon.

MOST carburetors do require disassembly to remove the idle jet, HOWEVER: Before throwing rocks at the carburetor, I would suggest checking, in order: (1) If a pertronix conversion were in the distributor. If so, check by replacing with points and condensor (2) The vacuum advance unit in the distributor. (3) Vacuum leak (split hose to wiper motor, etc.). (4) Dwell (if points) (5) Timing If all of the above are good, then time to think about the carburetor. Jon.

Based on what you have posted, I would suspect the compression. With an updraft carburetor, the vacuum must be sufficient to draw the fuel UP into the cylinders. Dry plugs, but fuel in the air intake indicates the fuel is not being drawn into the cylinders. The oldest compression information I have on Buick is 1931, so might be slightly different from the 1929; factory compression pressure on the 1931 was 97 psi (from old Motors manual). EDIT: telephone interrupted this post. The anomaly is that you posted starting fluid did not help. Generally, even with low compression, the engine should fire on starting fluid if the timing and spark are good, even if the carb was removed. It may be that you have multiple issues. As to the compression, if the 97 were correct for 1929, then I would like to see a minimum of 60/cylinder if it were my vehicle. Jon

If at all possible: replace with a new North American reproduction tank. Next best option is the afore-mentioned radiator shop. Jon.

Aftermarket rotary throttle. I have yet to speak with anyone who tried one and was happy with it. Jon.

NAPA parts stores used to had an excellent fiber washer assortment. I haven't looked in several years, so don't know if current, but certainly worth a try. Jon.

It is a device to pull gasoline from the carburetor, and send it to a Southwind gasoline heater. The Carter C6D2 carb is a mid-year to late 1935 Plymouth. Jon

Possible the idle mixture control screw is too far out (rich), which would cause the curb idle to be set with the throttle plate completely closed. A run on the highway will cause the mixture to lean out, and if the throttle plate was completely closed, would cause a stall at idle. Jon.

Dave - the threads on the choke housing are standard tubing. Memory says 1/4 inch. Get a tubing nut that would normally be used with a ferrule (or "olive"). Jon.

If you are requesting information on the fuel fitting: The female threads in the carburetor body are 1/8 pipe. You can acquire a fitting with a male 1/8 pipe on the end to the carb, and virtually whatever you want to the fuel line. Jon.

On any used car that is new to you, I would suggest a trip (unless you have a lift) to a reputable shop where the car can be lifted; and items under the car inspected. These items would include (but not limited to): exhaust, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, ball joints, u-joints, steering components, tires, differential for leaks, etc. Personally, I feel this is more important than working on the engine, assuming the engine will run well enough to get to the shop and back. You did mention you fixed one exhaust leak already, and there is a tick-tick under the car. Fixing the exhaust might (especially if dual exhaust) have a positive effect on the running of the engine. Once you start back on the engine: (A) compression ( ignition (spark plug wires are often overlooked) © carburetion In the above order Jon.

After reading this thread, it would seem to me that possibly a sticking intake valve could cause this issue. However, as it has been a long time since I worked on a Breeze, I read the entire 56 page manual. I found this reference on page 41: Gas Blowing Back Through Carbureter. Automatic inlet valves have a vcry short lift, and when the engine has more than one cylinder, the springs in these valves must be of an even tension. If the springs are weak or have too rnuch lift, part of the gas will be blown backwards through the valves and the carburetcr in the compression stroke. Jon.

John - something I would personally like to see, would be someone with the time to do so, to produce a list of common words of interest to automobile enthusiasts; and arrive at a consenual meaning for these words. Some words are used by many (or all), but sometimes the understanding is less than accurate. Being from the midwest, Will Rogers was one of my favorite entertainers. I will not try the exact quotation, but he once said something to the effect that what we know that is incorrect hurts us more than what we don't know. One automotive word that immediately comes to mind is octane. I would venture a guess that as many as 50 percent of those reading these forums are using the wrong octane in their older vehicles, and simply wasting money (or worse). Here is a link to my website that attempts to explain, in non-technical terms, octane: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Octane.htm I personally believe if some one with writing skills were to pursue this project, they would find lots of help from members of this forum. There are some incredibly sharp individuals that lurk here! Jon.

John - I was not implying that some words should never be used; rather that, articles (or conversation) should be at a comfort level for both parties, or, tailor the article to the intended reader. If you are doing an article for some PHd candidates, the infrequently used words might be appropriate. Personally, when I read an article, either technical or historical, in an automotive magazine (or website), I am interested in learning about the content of the article. And especially, if the article is about a topic in my field, that the information contained is accurate. One common example that is annoying is someone referring to a "Stromberg 94 carburetor". Should you be unaware, Stromberg produced a carburetor incorrectly referred to an the Stromberg 97 (it is actually a model EE-1); and Holley produced the carburetor incorrectly referred to as the model 94 (it is actually a model AA-1). So a "Stromberg 94" is incorrect on two counts. Accuracy in our writings not only aids the present generation; but relieves confusion to future generations. And no offense was intended by my previous or present comments. Jon.

According to Branham, the DP prefix was used on 1946 Chevrolet 1/2 ton light delivery trucks. Jon.

Would that be stoichiometric for gasoline or E-10? And at what altitude do you normally drive? Jon.

Agree completely. One of the mentors of my youth spoke (if I correctly recall) 14 languages fluently, and had several PHd's to his credit; and yet his normal speech, while always grammatically correct, was about that of a high school senior. His reasoning - "if the listener does not understand what I said, then I wasted my breath". I have enough trouble with customers who don't understand the six letter word "octane"; whether it be MON, RON, or AKI. Jon.

The part is not mentioned by Carter, but appears to be some type of governor. Although why one would be on a passenger is beyond me, unless your car was once used as a taxi. One other comment: the carburetor pictured is a type BBR-1, which was Carter's price leader (read not their best) carburetor. Nash upgraded from the BBR-1 to Carter's best WA-1 carb for the 40 series Nash in 1946. If you plan to drive the car rather than show it, you would be happier with the 1946 carburetor. Jon.