carbking

With no offense meant: Many conditions are called "vapor lock"; a few actually are vapor lock. Perhaps if you described your symptoms, someone here might have suggestions. Jon.

MOST carburetors do require disassembly to remove the idle jet, HOWEVER: Before throwing rocks at the carburetor, I would suggest checking, in order: (1) If a pertronix conversion were in the distributor. If so, check by replacing with points and condensor (2) The vacuum advance unit in the distributor. (3) Vacuum leak (split hose to wiper motor, etc.). (4) Dwell (if points) (5) Timing If all of the above are good, then time to think about the carburetor. Jon.

Based on what you have posted, I would suspect the compression. With an updraft carburetor, the vacuum must be sufficient to draw the fuel UP into the cylinders. Dry plugs, but fuel in the air intake indicates the fuel is not being drawn into the cylinders. The oldest compression information I have on Buick is 1931, so might be slightly different from the 1929; factory compression pressure on the 1931 was 97 psi (from old Motors manual). EDIT: telephone interrupted this post. The anomaly is that you posted starting fluid did not help. Generally, even with low compression, the engine should fire on starting fluid if the timing and spark are good, even if the carb was removed. It may be that you have multiple issues. As to the compression, if the 97 were correct for 1929, then I would like to see a minimum of 60/cylinder if it were my vehicle. Jon

If at all possible: replace with a new North American reproduction tank. Next best option is the afore-mentioned radiator shop. Jon.

Aftermarket rotary throttle. I have yet to speak with anyone who tried one and was happy with it. Jon.

NAPA parts stores used to had an excellent fiber washer assortment. I haven't looked in several years, so don't know if current, but certainly worth a try. Jon.

It is a device to pull gasoline from the carburetor, and send it to a Southwind gasoline heater. The Carter C6D2 carb is a mid-year to late 1935 Plymouth. Jon

Possible the idle mixture control screw is too far out (rich), which would cause the curb idle to be set with the throttle plate completely closed. A run on the highway will cause the mixture to lean out, and if the throttle plate was completely closed, would cause a stall at idle. Jon.

Dave - the threads on the choke housing are standard tubing. Memory says 1/4 inch. Get a tubing nut that would normally be used with a ferrule (or "olive"). Jon.

If you are requesting information on the fuel fitting: The female threads in the carburetor body are 1/8 pipe. You can acquire a fitting with a male 1/8 pipe on the end to the carb, and virtually whatever you want to the fuel line. Jon.

On any used car that is new to you, I would suggest a trip (unless you have a lift) to a reputable shop where the car can be lifted; and items under the car inspected. These items would include (but not limited to): exhaust, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, ball joints, u-joints, steering components, tires, differential for leaks, etc. Personally, I feel this is more important than working on the engine, assuming the engine will run well enough to get to the shop and back. You did mention you fixed one exhaust leak already, and there is a tick-tick under the car. Fixing the exhaust might (especially if dual exhaust) have a positive effect on the running of the engine. Once you start back on the engine: (A) compression ( ignition (spark plug wires are often overlooked) © carburetion In the above order Jon.

After reading this thread, it would seem to me that possibly a sticking intake valve could cause this issue. However, as it has been a long time since I worked on a Breeze, I read the entire 56 page manual. I found this reference on page 41: Gas Blowing Back Through Carbureter. Automatic inlet valves have a vcry short lift, and when the engine has more than one cylinder, the springs in these valves must be of an even tension. If the springs are weak or have too rnuch lift, part of the gas will be blown backwards through the valves and the carburetcr in the compression stroke. Jon.

John - something I would personally like to see, would be someone with the time to do so, to produce a list of common words of interest to automobile enthusiasts; and arrive at a consenual meaning for these words. Some words are used by many (or all), but sometimes the understanding is less than accurate. Being from the midwest, Will Rogers was one of my favorite entertainers. I will not try the exact quotation, but he once said something to the effect that what we know that is incorrect hurts us more than what we don't know. One automotive word that immediately comes to mind is octane. I would venture a guess that as many as 50 percent of those reading these forums are using the wrong octane in their older vehicles, and simply wasting money (or worse). Here is a link to my website that attempts to explain, in non-technical terms, octane: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Octane.htm I personally believe if some one with writing skills were to pursue this project, they would find lots of help from members of this forum. There are some incredibly sharp individuals that lurk here! Jon.

John - I was not implying that some words should never be used; rather that, articles (or conversation) should be at a comfort level for both parties, or, tailor the article to the intended reader. If you are doing an article for some PHd candidates, the infrequently used words might be appropriate. Personally, when I read an article, either technical or historical, in an automotive magazine (or website), I am interested in learning about the content of the article. And especially, if the article is about a topic in my field, that the information contained is accurate. One common example that is annoying is someone referring to a "Stromberg 94 carburetor". Should you be unaware, Stromberg produced a carburetor incorrectly referred to an the Stromberg 97 (it is actually a model EE-1); and Holley produced the carburetor incorrectly referred to as the model 94 (it is actually a model AA-1). So a "Stromberg 94" is incorrect on two counts. Accuracy in our writings not only aids the present generation; but relieves confusion to future generations. And no offense was intended by my previous or present comments. Jon.

According to Branham, the DP prefix was used on 1946 Chevrolet 1/2 ton light delivery trucks. Jon.

Would that be stoichiometric for gasoline or E-10? And at what altitude do you normally drive? Jon.

Agree completely. One of the mentors of my youth spoke (if I correctly recall) 14 languages fluently, and had several PHd's to his credit; and yet his normal speech, while always grammatically correct, was about that of a high school senior. His reasoning - "if the listener does not understand what I said, then I wasted my breath". I have enough trouble with customers who don't understand the six letter word "octane"; whether it be MON, RON, or AKI. Jon.

The part is not mentioned by Carter, but appears to be some type of governor. Although why one would be on a passenger is beyond me, unless your car was once used as a taxi. One other comment: the carburetor pictured is a type BBR-1, which was Carter's price leader (read not their best) carburetor. Nash upgraded from the BBR-1 to Carter's best WA-1 carb for the 40 series Nash in 1946. If you plan to drive the car rather than show it, you would be happier with the 1946 carburetor. Jon.

Very little factory information survives. The high speed adjustment is the nut above the airvalve (up for rich, down for lean), and the low speed adjustment is the nut below the airvalve. As both adjustments work against springs which are now more than 100 years old, and probably fatigued, the adjustments may not function as well as when new. To my knowledge, no one has reproduced the springs. Jon.

Mike - the carb has some Zenith features, but the early Zenith literature does not specify a Zenith for the 1912 as original equipment. The early literature also does not picture all Zenith models. It really does resemble a Zenith type L However, Zenith number 218 (type L6 carburetor) is shown to be a replacement unit for the early White 3 ton with White type GED engine. The L6 is an S.A.E. size 3 carburetor (nominal 1 1/2 inch, with throttle bore of 1 5/8 inch, and c-c mounting spacing of 2 15/16 inch). In 1924, Zenith suggested replacing the model L carbs with a equivilent model U. The L6 would have been superceded by the U6. Best I can do. Jon.

Mike - the earliest specifications I have on carburetors for White is 1917. If you will post some pictures of your bad shape carb, possibly I will recognize it, and be able to tell you what to look for. Jon.

James - yes, a genuine BB-1D would fit the DA engine. If you cannot find a U-2 donor, we have several of them, but due to shipping costs, no longer ship outside of the US or Canada. I got tired of being called a bandit when shipping costs are totally out of my control! If you can find a friend that is visiting the US, one could be shipped to a hotel. Jon.

You might find this link interesting: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Zinccastings.htm Castings for the Stromberg U-2 have been reproduced in aluminum in Australia. At one time the DB club was importing these castings. You might check with them. Be very careful if you purchase a "BB-1A" off of ebay. Yes, they do occasionally show up there, but at least 60 percent of the carbs listed on ebay are mis-identified. Make sure you can identify the BB-1A from the pictures and description, NOT from the ebay vendor's title. Oh, and the BB-1D superceded the BB-1A. Jon.

Try this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Octane.htm Also, check how your transmission is functioning. When we upgraded our shop truck (450 HP Ford 390 CID with 10.5:1 compression) from an automatic to a manual; octane requirement DROPPED from 91 to 87 for normal driving. When pulling the 18 foot trailer loaded, I do put in 89. I realize a manual transmission is not an option in your Cadillac, but if the transmission needs maintenance, it may be placing an additional load on the engine. As to the octane booster: I have a 1979 Ford factory turbo. For a long time, 91 octane was the highest we had available at the local pumps. I tried every octane booster then on the market to no avail. Tried double strength - still ping. Tried TRIPLE strength - still ping. Gave up on the octane boosters and started mixing unleaded race fuel of 105 octane ar 1 to 5 ratio with 87 octane pump gas. No ping. A few years ago, one local station put in 93 octane. Tried it - no ping. So basically 91 octane plus a triple dose of octane booster did not equal the results of 93 octane fuel. Don't have sufficient chemistry background to offer an opinion on octane booster; however, the above is my personal experiences. Jon.

I would respectfully mildly disagree. If both are properly rebuilt, there should be absolutely no discernable difference in performance ON A STOCK ENGINE from the stock Carter WCFB to the stock Rochester 4-GC, even on a dynomometer. HOWEVER - if the engine has been modified, or the carburetor(s) has been migrated to a non-stock application; the Carter, due to the metering rod technology, is easier to modify the the new engine requirements. Also, if one resides at a altitude of 4000 plus feet above sea level, the Carter would be easier to adapt to the higher altitude engine requirements. Perhaps the relative ease of modification was the basis for your comment. EDIT: one of the reasons the Rochester 4-GC can offer less than optimal performance is the function of the auxiliary airvalve (on models that use this feature). The spring WILL fatigue over time, and any carb with 60k or so miles SHOULD have the spring replaced (yes, Virginia, the springs ARE available). Also, I searched for years to find the correct spring setting. It is 1/2 turn (180 degrees) tension past when the plates touch closed. A fatigued or out-of-adjustment spring will allow the airvalve to open sooner than desired, thus causing a hesitation on initial opening of the secondary. Jon.