carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Rather than include these pictures in the other thread, I have started a new thread. Issues from absolutely original: (A) The color on the carburetors is not perfect (recoloring rarely is) ( The street ell attaching the fuel filter to the lines is modern production, and thus is very slightly different in shape (so close one would need to place the two side-by-side to tell the difference) © The choke lines, and fittings were fabricated from a picture. Originally, where the choke line had the "tee", was probably a welded line, rather than a brass tee. (D) The sheet metal heat baffle was fabricated from a picture All other items are either reconditioned original, or exact replacement. Jon.
  2. The carb number posted is for a 400, it will provide slightly less fuel at idle than a carb for a 455. The purpose of the heat crossover is to provide heat for the fuel/air mixture at idle. Blocking the crossover is a racers trick that may be good for 1 to 1 and 1/2 percent power increase at the top of the RPM curve (if your 455 was good for 400 HP with a crossover, its maybe 405 with the crossover blocked). The heat is required to help vaporize the fuel at low RPM. Automatic transmission vehicles will be more sensative to the lack of heat that standard transmission vehicles. The problem with the heat should go away after 30 minutes or so of driving after every cold start. You may be able to compensate for the wrong carburetor by setting the idle mixture control screws richer than normal. Oh, the other numbers probably mean that the carb is not a restamp. Jon.
  3. No Krispy Kremes for me (I have been on the leaf and twig diet since bypass); however: (A) New drivetrain, was the crossover blocked? If so, learn to enjoy your problem. ( Is the carb the correct carb for your 455? A carb for a smaller engine would have a different idle calibration, but still run well above idle. © Is the flange gasket the correct thickness? Since the 1971 used a divorced choke, flange gasket thickness is critical (or readjust the length of the choke rod). (D) Carb off Ebay. Are you positive the carb is what it is supposed to be, and not a restamp? LOTS of restamped Pontiac carbs on Ebay. (E) Standard ignition questions: dist. advance working, proper range plugs, wires/plugs not mismatched, etc.? Good luck. That thing should be a bear when you get it sorted out. Jon.
  4. Parts for the Stromberg model OF are available, but they must be custom made. Jon.
  5. Jim - the Penberthy SV-26 could be replaced with the later Stomberg U-2 (as mentioned by Harry). It also can be replaced by a number of universal replacement carburetors such as the Carter BB1D, Stromberg SF-2, and Zenith 267J10. Jon.
  6. Glenn - give me a call during normal business hours to discuss symptoms. These were and are excellent carburetors. The 4-GC has one design flaw (the possibility of engine stall on hard turns). There is a factory fix for this. Of course, there were changes from the early (1952) carbs, but by 1956, these were as good as the Carters on the correct application. The other 2 major problems associated with the 4-GC are commercial rebuilders (or anyone else) who mix and match parts; and the idea that all 4-GC's are the same. The proper 4-GC correctly rebuilt and adjusted should give no trouble. One annoyance - since Rochester did not offer the 4-GC as an aftermarket carburetor, those seeking to modify engines, or migrate the 4-GC from one application to another sometimes have to make their own calibration parts. Jon.
  7. Your local machine shop should have a catalog for Boston Gear. Jon.
  8. An occasional stall from a stop sign could be many things (including stale gasoline). As a general rule, the 4-GC has no "personality". In other words, it either always works, or it always fails. I would suggest running the current tank of gasoline through the engine, and then a fill up of fresh gasoline. If the symptoms persist, check out the ignition system; also, the idle mixture control screws may be set too rich. They should be from about 3/4 of one turn to maybe 1 and 1/4 turns from seated. If these need to be adjusted, the idle curb screw will also probably need adjusting. Jon.
  9. Once you determine EXACTLY the dimensions of the required gear, try Boston Gear. They have an AMAZING inventory of gears which they make (not pot metal, but real steel, bronze, etc.). Jon.
  10. Your 1956 Olds should not have a Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. Rather, it should have a Rochester model 4-GC (probably marked "4 Jet" on the airhorn, or top casting of the carburetor). There was some early literature which referred to the 4-GC as a quadrajet, but this is an entirely different series of carburetor than those referred to at the referenced website. In my opinion, while the true quadrajet is a more efficient design than your 4-GC, the 4-GC is more reliable being virtually "bullet-proof"; the only major defect being that of a factory "fix" to correct engine stall in a very hard turn. Do you road race your Olds? If not, don't worry about it until you have the carb professionally restored, and then ask the restorer to install the patch (it probably was installed years ago anyway). The average car enthusiast can easily rebuild a 4-GC him/herself and expect excellent results. The Olds factory shop manual and a good kit, along with a few tools are required. If restoration (recoloring, replating) is desired, then probably best to send to a professional. Jon.
  11. John - happy to help, and also very happy that you were not offended. We have custody of what Stromberg records remain. Wish they were better organized. Jon.
  12. Cannot help you with a list by number, but they are very easy to identify. As to performance, remember that these were sold for production street cars. The major differences between high performance and otherwise are that the high performance carbs are calibrated to run with lower vacuum (due to high performance engines having bigger cams). If you are interested in numbers-matching, the potential of virtually all 800 CFM carbs (modified) for performance is about the same. After 1976, virtually all Q-Jets were 800 CFM, and these will generally be less expensive than the early 1970's carbs which are in demand for numbers matching applications. Jon.
  13. No comment on who made the first V-12 (we show several in our files, but by year, not by day), however, a comment on the excellent post of Mr. Shireman in regards to the first use of a downdraft carburetor: Marmon was not the first to make use of the downdraft carburetor. The Marmon 16 used a Stromberg DDR-3 carburetor, assembly number A-14883 (2-bbl). Hupmobile used a Stromberg DD-3 carburetor, assembly number A-13803 (2-bbl). Chrysler used a Stromberg DX-3 carburetor, assembly number A-13373 (1-bbl). Stromberg "coded" their carburetor models. The first letter (in this instance "D") was the basic model. If the first letter were repeated (in this case "DD"), that designated the carburetor as a two-barrel (a one-barrel was implied if the first letter was not repeated). The letter "R" mean "revised". In this case the DDR was a later revision of the DD. The number referred to the S.A.E. flange size, in this case size 3, which was a "nominal" 1 and 1/2 inch throttle bore. The letter "X" meant cross flange (a straight flange was implied if the letter "X" was omitted). The model "D" was Stromberg's first attempt at a downdraft carburetor, but certainly not the first downdraft carburetor. Additionally, Stromberg numbered their carburetors sequentially. The A-13373 came out in 1929. The A-13803 came out in 1930, the A-14883 in 1931. Who was the first to use a downdraft carburetor? I have absolutely no idea. Jon.
  14. Try Kurt Kelsey in Iowa Falls, Iowa. Jon.
  15. Interchange would depend on transmission type of the 54 carb and the 55 vehicle. Jets are no problem. Jon.
  16. The original was a Penberthy (Ball & Ball) model SV-37. Good luck on finding a rebuildable example. Jon.
  17. Have been buying literature from them for 30 years. Never have had a problem with the literature. Prices must be reasonable or I wouldn't keep buying My only complaint would be they probably need some additional help; sometimes slow to respond (but they always do). If you have a problem, get back to them. My guess is that it will be resolved to your satisfaction. Jon.
  18. The "Ball" carb was actually a "Ball & Ball" model, manufactured by the Penberthy Injector Company. Jon.
  19. There are several different that are all very close in size. Best bet is to make your own. They don't have to be neopreme. The earlier gaskets (replaced by the neopreme) were cork. Cork sheets are available in your local auto parts store. Jon.
  20. carbking

    Carter WGD CFM?

    Twitch - I would feel most comfortable with wet CFM at 1.5 inches mercury on 4 barrels, and wet CFM at 3 inches mercury on 1 and 2 barrels; IF EACH CARBURETOR WERE RATED BY AN INDEPENDANT RATER! Since obviously that is not going to happen, the only single specification I feel comfortable with is the carburetor identification number. I can then find out what I need to know from my library. I realize my case would be different than most, but that is the best answer I can offer. In the case of the original question on this thread, I would guess the flow of a Carter WGD 728s to be approximately 320 CFM, and will leave you to guess which rating system I am using <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Jon.
  21. Finding a "new" two-barrel that was correct for the vehicle would only give you a carburetor with no wear; it would still have to rebuilt as the fuel valve, gaskets, and accelerator pump (unless leather) would not be compatible with modern fuel. This website should tell you which two barrel you should have: Chrysler carburetor applications Adding a four barrel could improve or hurt your fuel economy depending on your driving habits. It should improve low RPM drivability, as the air velocity in the carburetor would be increased, thereby improving the fuel air mixing process. There would be some (probably not as much as you would hope for) increased performance under wide open throttle. Since you ask about adding dual exhausts, this is probably a low compression, medium volumetric efficient engine; and increasing the air would have little effect unless other engine changes (camshaft, ignition, compression, etc.) were also done. Unless you plan to drive lots of miles, the increased economy (if any) would not approximate the cost of the conversion. Jon.