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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Rick - the use of a choke is necessary to start an engine with an updraft carburetor. Once started, some choke will be necessary on a well-tuned carburetor (depending on ambient temperature) until the engine warms completely. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, no choke should be needed. Also, the engine should not be expected to idle at normal idle speed until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Modern downdraft carburetors utilize a "fast idle cam" which is connected to the choke to run the engine at a fast idle until the engine has obtained normal operating
  2. Michael - the carbs with the bronze bowls have a flat aluminum cap. They don't really complete seal. The better kits come with a new cap. Kits are less expensive than carburetors. Jon.
  3. Check my profile for home page where you will find telephone number. Give me a call during normal business hours, and will be happy to discuss with you. Jon.
  4. Tom - I don't know of anything that will help the deathanol. I think patience; people are going to demand this *&^%$#@ will end before too long. Jon.
  5. Rick, no, not electroplating. Maybe someone else will jump in and explain metal spray. We just use new ones, so don't do the metal spray; but not everyone has that option. Electroplating might help if everything except the fingers were taped off. Tolerences on these parts are extremely tight. Jon.
  6. Two issues when adjusting the Detroit Lubricator type 51 carburetor as used by Packard: (1) The fingers of the vanes, and the groove in the aspirator valve wear. A competant restorer will either replace the vanes and aspirator valve during restoration, or will metal spray the wear on the fingers and groove, and remachine to standard specifications. Failure to account for the wear in these areas will upset the geometry of the variable venturi principle, and throw off the calibration at one end of the RPM range or the other. (2) Automatic carburetors such as the Detroit type 51 were factory cali
  7. Don't know who did your carb, but he/she is basically giving you the correct information. With an updraft carburetor, fuel is pulled up from the carburetor into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder head by engine vacuum. When the engine is turned off, vacuum goes to zero. Gravity will cause all fuel suspended in the intake manifold, and possibly part in the runners of the cylinder head to drop. If the carburetor throttle is improperly adjusted (too rich) and the throttle plate is completely closed, then the fuel will gather on the throttle plate, and exit the carburetor around the ar
  8. Tom - it would still be possible to adjust without bending the float, if one were SURE that the fuel valve was the correct one, and that the float had been significantly bent in the past. Possibilities: (A) thinner gasket (rubberized aluminum from modern carb) ( insert fuel valve seat in lathe, and remove a few thousands. Jon.
  9. Tom, and Ken - while the float was designed to be adjusted as Tom suggests; another way that does not cause possible damage to a very expensive float is to change the thickness of the gasket(s) between the fuel valve seat and the bowl. Jon.
  10. PROBABLY the one at the top would be idle, and the one on the bowl the high speed. Jon.
  11. Rick - you can often quiet a noisy electric pump by cutting rubber spacers from rubber tubing. Slide these over the mounting bolts between the pump and the frame. Jon.
  12. Rick - and others, There are a number of reasons why the Packard EE-22's are scarce. One of them is carburetor design. The EE series was an early thinwall diecast design. The EE-2, with the end-hung float did not present too much of a problem with fuel valve support, but the later EE-22 with the center-hung float did have issues. Stromberg issued a service bulletin to always use two wrenches when tightening/loosening the fuel line; or wrench slippage could result in a broken bowl. Packard was supposed to have issued a similiar bulletin, however I have not personally seen the Packard version.
  13. Rick - you are right, anything is possible. If I hadn't been watching so closely, I would have walked under that flying elephant this afternoon! Actually, both the Super 8 Packard and the Lincoln have the 1 3/16 inch venturi (cast in the side of the bowl), as does the Buick with the 90 degree airhorn. I cannot describe the Packard throttle arm, but I would look for the Packard throttle arm and the 1 3/16 inch venturi. No, the throttle arm is not the old slip-fit as used by the earlier Detroit carbs. Jon.
  14. Jeff - I have been in touch with Richard, and he is sending some information. Jon.
  15. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K8096</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey carbking, how do you tell the difference between an EE-22 that was off of a Super Eight Packard versus one that was originally off of a Lincoln K? </div></div> Size and throttle arm are totally different. There are tons of small differences. Probably the easiest way is that carbs from a 1933 or 1934 Super 8 Packard are virtually non-existant; and there is probably a 999 out of a 1000 chance that it isn't Packard Super 8. Most of the ones th
  16. Bob - swapping the bases generally doesn't work, as each series has different vacuum ports; and in fact, swapping one EE-1 base for another EE-1 base on the same center section doesn't work unless the two EE-1's are for the same application. Jon.
  17. Jeff - one of the features of the Penberthy carburetor was an airvalve, also was a feature on many of the early carburetors (i.e. Schebler). Since there were two air sources, the one-barrel carb was often referred to as a 2-barrel. Possibly the 4-barrel referred to is similiarly a 2-barrel with multiple air intakes? Do you know of anyone with a illustrated parts book or owners manual, etc. that would have a picture of the carburetor? Jon.
  18. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jeff_a</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Kevin, I talked to the Peerless Motor Car Club President, Richard Lichtfeld, on the phone a couple of hours ago and mentioned that you had an interesting photo posted here on the Peerless Forum. He said he would look at it. If interested in joining the Peerless Motor Car Club, it's $20.00 U.S. and $30.00 Foreign. The Club's website at: www.peerlessmotorcar.com has info on dues. Mailing address of Club: The PEERLESS MOTOR CAR CLUB, Inc., 5001 Femrite Dr
  19. Joe - I really like your comment about the butcher shop (and I really do like fish!!!) I also would totally agree with you on whether the original poster would drive enough miles to justify any change. I cannot agree with you on efi always metering fuel better than a carburetor; in fact our experiences are about 90 percent the other direction, but then we have never done a head-to-head against a custom efi calibrated by an efi guru. However, against factory efi, a properly selected carburetor normally wins. But to get back to your excellent comment concerning costs: For the sake of argument,
  20. Rick - in the "for what its worth" category, the only sealers permitted in our shop for carburetor repair are blue locktite to seal throttle plate screws, and POR-15 to seal the foam replacements we use to replace cork floats on carburetors that used cork floats. Our experience with the float pin is that it will not only not come out of its own accord; normally a pair of needle-nosed vise-grips (which of course destroys the pin, and why I think I remember the diameter from making so many) is necessary to pull the pin. Others may have differing opinions/experiences. Jon.
  21. The fuel level in the bowl should not be of sufficient height to leak out of the hole. Jon.
  22. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, There are brass rod and wire in various sizes, simalar to what you need. I have many sizes that I use in my ship models and in braz-welding. You may be able to take the float to a hardware or hobby store and find some the correct size. Stainless steel rod would be better but I think brass rod would work fine. A
  23. Julian - a properly tuned Quadrajet will provide (at least after the first 5 minutes) as good driveability, fuel economy, and probably more power than the efi; and is certainly more reliable! The world did not need cell phones prior to efi; cell phones were invented so one could contact the operator of the tow truck! The key is getting a quadrajet DESIGNED for the style of engine you will be using, and then fine-tuning. Jon.
  24. Adding to Owen-Dyneto's excellent post: Many of the early 1933 EE-22 Stromberg carburetors used by Packard are marked EE-2 on the end of the bowl, and EE-22 on the base. THESE ARE EE-22 CARBURETORS, PACKARD DID NOT USE AN EE-2! One very easy way to differentiate an EE-2 from an EE-22 is the float arrangement. The EE-2 has the float hung from one end, whil the EE-22 has a center hung float. And I could not agree more on the disposition of the Chandler-Grove (Holley) carburetors! Jon.
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