carbking

AAVS-2 An S.A.E. size 2 Stromberg 2 barrel carburetor, style A with vacuum power system and with kickdown switch. However, this is not the carburetor identification number, which should be stamped on the airhorn. For a 1947 Chrysler, the stamped number should either be 4-111 or 4-112, possibly, but not necessarily, followed by an engineering status code in the form of a single letter. Jon.

A sheet of gasket material from the local FLAPS, a school compass, and a pair of fingernail (curved cutters) sissors; and easy to make your own rather inexpensively. Jon.

The carb is Carter number 89s from a 1927 Nash. Since the float is good, as stated in my previous post, will pay your $125. cash or will trade you $200. worth of carburetor kits, your option. Let me know. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

Daniel - remove the bowl nut, look up into the cavity where the bowl nut was screwed in; there will be the end of a round brass jet that will have some tiny numbers. There should be 2 numbers, one of which is a 12. The other number will tell me exactly (well, almost exactly) which carburetor you have. Also, which the bowl is off, remove and test the float - this from my website: If the float looks to be reasonably damage-free, it should be tested. Testing is accomplished by grasping the float arm with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and submerging the float in very hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air inside the float, and a leaky float will blow a stream of bubbles. If the float tests good, I will buy your carb for your cash price of $125. or trade you $200. worth of carburetor kits, your choice, and I need another carb like I need another hole in my head. For some reason, no one is looking at this ad, you are too cheap! Jon.

The Rochester 4-GC is NOT a difficult carburetor to adjust, as carburetors go. And one of the better early 4-barrels. Virtually bullet-proof if properly restored. You have the manual; study the information on the various circuits and what they do. Then you have an idea of what might be causing symptoms. Circuits in your carb: (1) Choke - if properly adjusted, only functional for 4 ~ 8 minutes after startup (2) Float(2) - keeps the fuel level in the bowls correct (3) Pump - adds fuel during acceleration only (4) Idle - basically only in play up to maybe 800 RPM (5) Off-idle or transition - between idle and main, maybe 750 ~ 1200 RPM (6) Main - above 1200 RPM (7) Power - augments the main circuit when vacuum drops below a pre-set figure under WOT Remember (and it is a proved fact, not just my opinion) - out of every 100 "carburetor problems", 3 are compression, 92 are ignition, and 5 are actually carburetor related. The ignition figure may be actually higher (opinion) for AFTERMARKET electronic ignitions. And the "hot idle compensator" is a valve which is basically a metered vacuum leak at high temperature, slow driving. Purpose is to lean out the mixture in city driving with an ambient of maybe 90 degrees F. or above. Helps to prevent "hot soak" (often mislabeled vapor lock) stalling when stuck in traffic. Rochester made an aftermarket version to add if one was needed and not stock. Here is a picture - It is called a Carb - airator. Has a 1/8 inch male pipe to screw into a vaccum source. Jon.

Since you have the car running, and can enjoy it, you now have plenty of time to look for an original Carter AFB. I believe you will find the original has much better drivability than the clone, will get better fuel economy (if that is important to you), and will make the car more valuable and easier to sell if you ever decide to sell it (or, if you are like me, when your heirs sell it ). And of course, with the original, everything fits and works as it was originally engineered to work. Jon.

Congratulations! Enjoy the car. If it were mine, I would drive it and enjoy it, but would always be looking for a 390. My favorite Ford engine, have had several over the years. Still have one in my shop truck. Jon.

Daniel - it is much scarcer than Chevrolet. The Chevrolet for 1928 is a RAKX-0. Several different versions of the DRH-0, but they were used on Ajax, Moon, Nash, and Star. Someone is always looking for the Nash version. Jon.

Alsancle - the 488s is a fairly tough nut to find. Jon.

Frank - no, they should not. Over the years; aluminum, brass, copper, and steel tubing have been used from fuel pump to carburetor. The only rubber hose I can remember O.E. was from a fuel distribution log to the carburetors on a Ford tripower, but there may have been others. A solid line is much safer than the rubber. There is always a posibility the rubber line can get against something very hot, with less than desirable results. As Digger mentioned, steel brake line is readily available. I have never had much luck re-using the lines with the ferrells. Others might, but with this type line, I just bend new ones and use new ferrells. Jon.

Willie - I agree, I don't think the floats are the issue here either; I posted the link, as the OP had discovered different floats. Many do not notice this. Excessive bending on a 65 year-old brass float can be expensive (kind of like excessive bending on my body that is somewhat older ). A partially clogged idle circuit can require too much thottle opening which can upset the geometry of the fast idle/transition circuits and cause a bog or hesitation. Without looking, I believe this early a 4-GC would have the 2 check ball pump system, so a low float would not effect the operation of the pump. Beeman - when you call have the carb number, and I will pull the print to check if both floats in your specific carb are identical or different. And while we are on the subject of adjusting floats.........often one can effect the adjustment of the float WITHOUT bending. Changing the thickness of the gasket under the seat can easily change the height of the float +/- more than a 1/16 of an inch. The less bending, the better! Jon.

Maybe this will help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/WCFB_and_4GC_floats.htm Jon.

Tom - are you certain about the Schebler model L? All of the literature that I have for the early I.H.C. vehicles points to the Schebler D, which is a fairly bullet-proof carburetor. Originals DO generally need a new airvalve and airvalve spring, but these parts are available. As to the Schebler model L: these perform best on "museum" vehicles which are never started The Schebler model L would have to be much better than it is, just to be considered "contrary"!!! As to your question concerning the BB-1: Carter produced dozens of different type BB-1 carbs. They come in three different S.A.E. sizes and several different internal sizes. The ones really useful to the less than carburetor expert hobbyist are the aftermarket universal units: S.A.E. size 1 - 245s (pre-WWII with iron bowl) S.A.E. size 1 - 245sd (post WWII with zinc bowl) S.A.E. size 2 - BB1A (pre) S.A.E size 2 - BB1D (post) S.A.E. size 3 - 289s (pre) S.A.E. size 3 - 289sd (post) By far, the majority of BB-1's offered, especially on ebay, are from Chevrolet DD (double duty) trucks, even those that have the aftermarket adjustable main metering jet. There were also several other O.E. applications. Simply adding the adjustable main jet to an O.E. application does NOT turn it in to the universal unit. Unfortunately, the carburetors were/are identified by tag only. Once the tag is removed, there are no identifying marks; however the carb may still be identified, but maybe not by many hobbyists. As the universal carbs tend to sell for more money, it seems that there are more of these listed (whether correctly or not ) by many ebay sellers. If you don't know or have a trusted friend that knows; buy the carb from someone you trust. Not saying the truck versions cannot be made to work on other applications, as they can; but internal changes by someone who understands the function of the carb will often be necessary, as will linkage modifications. Virtually all parts for the O.E. units are available (except floats). Many of the special pieces for the universal carbs must be fabricated at expense. And the BB-1 is an EXCELLENT updraft carb (I rate it just behind the Stromberg SF series and the Zenith 63 series). The only real issue is the mechanical accelerator pump. Remember that an engine with an updraft carburetor should ALWAYS be started using the choke, NEVER by using the accelerator pump. Pumping the footfeed with the BB-1 results in a puddle of fuel UNDER the engine! Both the Stromberg and the Zenith have the (opinion) much superior vacuum accelerator pump. Jon.

I was looking at new Mustangs in 1965. The two-barrel 289 was NOT rare at the time. Would guess more than 50 percent were built that way. And performance on a car as light as the Mustang with the two-barrel was brisk in 1965; a good friend bought one. You will find the dogmatic transmission hurts performance more than the two-barrel engine. Have fun. Jon.

When re-electroplating linkages, shafts etcs., it is important to keep original tolerances in mind. Example: For the most part, Carter used a specification of 0.004 inch to 0.006 inch clearance from throttle shaft to throttle body with the following EXCEPTION. Carter AFB and AVS carbs, because of the large aluminum throttle body and the coefficient of linear expansion, used a clearance of 0.016 ~ 0.022. Too loose of a clearance, and the shafts will allow too much unmetered air to enter the carb at idle effecting idle quality. Too tight of a clearance, and the shafts will bind in the throttle body when the engine is hot. Personal experience: even though the minimum spec is 0.004, when we were still restoring carbs, and when necessary bushing throttle shafts; I found that 0.004 would occasionally bind, so we would set the clearance at 0.005 when restoring the older carbs. I tried the home plating kit. Bought one of the more expensive ones. I could never even approach the quality of the professional plater. Another lesson in the school of hard knocks (a.k.a. knowledge by losing money!). Jon.

Thanks Howard, it has been shipped. Hope you like it. Jon.

Carter used some very thin nickel or "flash chrome" on some of the shafts (throttle, choke, intermediate). The arms and indigenous linkages on most carburetors would have been zinc or cad. This changed with some of the "9000 series" aftermarket carbs in the late 1970's. A VERY FEW Carter carburetors had the linkage chromed for appearance reasons (supposedly). Examples would be the WD-0 carbs used on the V-16 Cadillac, and the YH carbs used on turbo-charged Corvair. Carter even chrome-plated the tags on these units. The bodies on these units, after the chromate protection process, were painted black. The above is not to say that you will not find other finishes. Hot-rodders and other enthusiasts have been modifying cars probably since the first car was sold. When we were still rebuilding/restoring carbs, one of the treatments we used was derived from the afore-mentioned V-16 carbs; painting the carbs with gloss black (we used epoxy paint) and chroming the linkages. This link is a sample: If you look closely, you can see the greenish chromate finish where the air cleaners would attach. Difficult to tell from the picture, but the attaching screws are also chromed. Jon.

Have a nice photocopy of a 1921 Maxwell Master Parts Book available. Have had this photocopy for probably 30 years. Going through my "stuff" and disposing of those items no longer needed. $50. including shipping via UPS ground within the 48 contiguous United States. Or $30. if you pick up in Eldon, Missouri. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Lots of ideas, but do not type as well as I once did. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

You CANNOT clean it well unless you take it apart! Be aware that virtually any cleaning agent that removes ALL of the residue will also remove the factory finish. If you are going to refinish the carb: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetorfinishes.htm Redoing the factory finish is expensive! If this is a "driver" and running well, remember the old saw "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". If it becomes necessary to rebuild the carburetor, you could consider complete restoration at that time. Jon.

I am assuming the engine is currently running well. Since you do not know the current calibration of the carburetor; the first step would be to remove the main metering jets, and determine their size. Do NOT pay any attention to the numbers stamped on the jet, as many mechanics resize jets. Use a set of orifice drill to determine the jet size. Once you know your existing calibration, prepare a pair of main metering jets 0.002 inch (2 thousanths of an inch) SMALLER than the current size to use at 5000 feet and above. If you are going to do prolonged driving at 9000 feet, a second set an additional 0.001 smaller would be helpful. For just crossing the pass, I would leave the 0.002 leaner jets in. You may need to readjust the idle mixture screws. It would be a good idea to check their setting and record this setting before heading for the high altitude. Then you can easily bring back your existing calibration. Once you come back down below 5000 feet, it will be VERY important to replace the smaller jets with the standard ones. Thank your lucky stars you have the Stromberg and not the optional marvelous Marvel Jon.

Lacquer thinner works fairly well. You might also try vinegar. If using vinegar, let it soak overnight. Have cleaned lots of sintered brass and ceramic elements with vinegar. The thin white strands are probably remnants of teflon tape. Some simply cannot assemble the fact that teflon tape should NEVER be used on fuel fittings. Be glad the filter stopped them. Their next stop would be the idle circuit in the carburetor. As to filters, the modern paper filter will filter stuff the sintered brass will not; BUT, the modern paper can deteriorate and allow junk to pass on. Last time I started a vehicle that had been sitting for several years, I changed the inline every week for a couple of months. After that, the garbage in the tank no longer came loose. Jon.

With no disrespect intended, I do not believe the carb pictured in post number 3 is a PB carb. Jon.

Matt - carburetors go bad over years, even decades; the fact that it ran well for a few days tends to take away the carburetors as culprits. Also, you mention that it happens when you are on the throttle. Adjusting the idle mixture control screws only alters the adjustment up to maybe 800 RPM. Above that, you could turn the mixture screws all the way in, OR, take them out and put them in your pocket.....no difference. Since it happens primarily when accelerating, the first place I would check would be the vacuum advance unit; assuming it has one. But next would be a compression test, and then a full ignition test. If it is in the carburetor(s), it will be stuff in the main circuit loosened from the fuel lines when they were removed. This stuff normally finds its way into the idle circuit, not the main. Jon.

Glad that it seems to be fixed. Fuel pump output pressure can be effected by the diaphragm return spring used. There used to be a builder in the hobby whose mantra was that if the part fit, it was the right part! Have seen some fuel pumps that produced way more than 10 psi. Since we used to restore carburetors, and these pumps caused us some unnecessary rebuilds (customers blaming us for leaking carbs), we shopped around, did some testing, and have for many years suggested that fuel pump rebuilds or rebuilding kits should come from Then & Now Automotive, in the Boston area. Their parts have always been equivilent to original. This is even more true today than a few years ago, because of some vendors and "rebuilders" importing cheap off-shore parts. Since the regulator seemed to have fixed your issue, I might suggest acquiring a fuel pressure gauge, removing the regulator, and observing the actual pressure. If the actual pressure IS too high, I personally would want to correct the issue rather than using a band-aid. Just my 2 cents. Jon.