carbking

You have been given some good advice on this thread, BUT ALL OF US ARE GUESSING! With all due respect, you NEED to do some testing, rather than guessing. Hopefully, your "knowledgeable ***** father" doesn't read this forum, and see the post you made; but MAYBE, if you asked, he would teach you how to do the testing. When purchasing an older pre-owned car, my own procedure (not saying you should do it all, but at least have a plan). BEFORE the purchase (unless the vehicle is pretty much given to me): (A) Engine compression test (B) Check the tires (C) Check the brakes (D) Check the exhaust THEN time to make the purchase. After the purchase: (E) Buy a FACTORY shop manual (not one of the aftermarket, covers 97 makes, and 42 years but nothing well). (F) Once the shop manual arrives, a complete electrical tune-up. (G) Correct ALL defects in B, C, and D above Now it is time to start and road test the vehicle. Once you do some testing, and eliminate some variables, MUCH easier AND CHEAPER to diagnose your problem. Good luck. Jon.

Just wondering: Since the fuel system was originally diesel, is it possible that the change to gasoline would have loosened all of the diesel deposits in the fuel tank, and stopped up the fuel sock? I would start by removing the line at the carburetor, and trying an alternate fuel supply (possibly an outboard marine tank and electric pump). Would much rather do some testing to eliminate possible issues than guess. Jon.

Glad you got it running, and can now enjoy the car. Don't toss the original EX-32. Sometime when you have some spare time, take it apart and determine what is wrong with it. Impossible for any two-barrel running through a 2->1 adapter to run as well as a well-functioning original. If it runs great now, think how it could run. Jon.

I am often asked "what newer replacement carburetor can I put on my older vehicle?". While there are a number of different brands, series, and qualities of replacement carburetors; in my opinion (others will obviously have different opinions), the Stromberg SF and SFM (marine) series are at the very top of any list. My opinion was shared back in the day by many vehicle manufacturers, as after the introduction of the Stromberg SF series in 1932, MANY manufacturers asked Stromberg to offer specific replacements for their older vehicles. But Stromberg also offered all sizes of the SF and SFM series as universal carburetors with adjustable main metering jets and clamp-style throttle arms so the carburetors could be easily adapted to many different vehicles (the KEY is to choose the carb with the proper size internal venturi). The Stromberg SF/SFM series were not discontinued until 1968. From 1932 to 1968 is a pretty good run for any product in a field changing as fast as the automobile changed in that time period. To assist the enthusiast, I have produced an article, much of the information taken from original Stromberg documents of which I am the present caretaker. The link to the article is: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Stromberg_SF_carburetors.htm Others will bring up the popular Carter BB-1 aftermarket carburetor which in of itself is a very good carburetor. However, the single venturi and the mechanical accelerator pump of the BB-1, at least to me, make it less desirable than the Stromberg. Jon.

Off a running car? No reason a diligent enthusiast cannot do the rebuild. Here is a link to the factory Carter instructions: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_BB_updraft.pdf If you need parts or wish to discuss - (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

Ed - I will respectfully mildly disagree with a portion of the above post. First, I am not saying the carb SHOULD be replaced, only answering the OP's question. Since Stromberg DID in fact furnish the O-3 carb as original equipment a couple of years later, and specifications are in print (how many have the specs, I will not attempt to answer); a competent shop should be able to build a Stromberg O-3 to the original specs and have it function well. Similarly, as Stromberg did offer the SF-3 as a replacement unit, and calibration specifications are in print, again a competent shop should be able to build one that would function well. And yes, I would certainly agree the dyno and the analyzer ARE wonderful tools if one if trying to put something totally non-original on any car; but in this case, actual factory specifications do exist. Now the question becomes, how many shops have the specifications, or actually follow them. This I cannot answer. Unfortunately, many enthusiasts or even "mechanics" read a carburetor "type" eg Stromberg O-3 in a manual, and think ALL Stromberg O-3's are the same carburetor. Here is a sentence from an article I am preparing on the SF series carburetors: "SF-3, SFM-3 carburetors were used on engines of displacement of 242-1188 CID, with internal venturi sizes in inches 1, 1 1/16, 1 1/8, 1 3/16, 1 ¼, 1 5/16, 1 3/8, 1 7/16." Obviously, all carbs by type are not the same. Jon.

Tyler - I LOVE your manual adjustment!!! Jon.

The Stromberg O-3 is an excellent carburetor of the day. Other somewhat newer, and possibly (not always) less expensive units that would replace the O-3: Stromberg SF-3 and SFM-3 Zenith 63AW12 and 263M2E12 The above are MODELS. Within each model there are dozens of different calibrations, many that would not work well on the Pierce. Do your homework, and you will be pleased with any of the above, including the brass O-3. Jon.

G & U - the Carter WCFB is not a difficult carburetor to rebuild. Armed with an original service manual, a good kit, and a few good tools; you should have no trouble doing it yourself. Often, a consciencious owner will do a better job than a local "professional" because the owner has a vested interest in doing a good job. You do have this forum for questions. When I first started doing carburetors some 55 years ago, I would make drawings of the linkage, etc. when redoing a carburetor I had never seen before. Later, when camcorders became affordable; I would set a camcorder on a tripod, directing the camcorder at the carb as I was disassembling, and talk to the camcorder "throttle closes left to right with plate upwards" etc. Today, just get your wife or girlfriend (NOT BOTH ) to take a video on their cell phone. Then you have a record of how it was, should you need it. Jon.

Difficult starting when the engine is hot is, unfortunately, a byproduct of modern fuel. Difficult starting when the engine is cold if you touch the footfeed may indicate carburetor issues. Steel fuel needles were still being used in 1954. These would, over time, wear a groove in the needle, and wear the orifice of the seat such that the needle would extend further into the seat; resulting in the float being too high and the fuel level in the carburetor bowl being too high. This condition would create the touchy cold starting and a resultant decrease in fuel economy. A couple of comments about fuel economy. The odometers on older vehicles are not known for GPS accuracy! Plus, any variation in the tire circumference from original will contribute to odometer error. Before throwing rocks at the fuel economy, check your odometer against the highway mile marker signs. Also, dragging brakes or underinflated tires will contribute significantly to lower MPG. Jon.

Carter, as well as others, often ignored the letter "I" in their date coding. Jon.

First week of December 1963. That should give you a clue. Jon.

Neil - one thing I have learned (several times ) over the last 50 years is that new parts don't always work! That is one reason why testing is so important. As an example, we have personally tested a "new" fuel pump of a major well-known brand (but new enough to be made off-shore) that put out more than 15 psi. Would you believe the carburetor was flooding??? Jon.

Neil - rather than changing parts, maybe some testing. You have done a compression test. So it probably boils (no pun intended) down to fuel or spark. Find a clip on volt meter capable of measuring 20k volts. Check the voltage of the spark plug wires at the plugs both cold, and after the issue starts. Even though you have replaced several items including the coil, I would bet on ignition. Have you tried removing the fuel cap (for testing purposes only) to check for a pressure lock on the fuel tank? Have you placed a fuel pressure gauge at the carburetor to check fuel pressure both cold and hot? Jon.

Carburetor kit is no problem. You will need the letters and numbers STAMPED (not raised) on the vertical strengthening vane of the carburetor, located just behind the electrical solenoid in your picture, when you call. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

One reason the price on the Caddy dual-quad is so cheap is that the correct original chokes are missing. To the Cadillac restorer that is doing everything correct, that adds about $1k per choke! To someone that isn't interested in original, aftermarket chokes will actually function BETTER than the originals, and are MUCH cheaper! The Caddy engine was a 365 CID. Might have to enlarge the idle jets, and possibly slightly larger primary main jets, but if you want WCFB's, probably worth a look. Jon.

X2 Electrics pumps will push around the world, but won't pull 12 inches. Jon.

Using a 2->1 adapter and the two-barrel will run much worse than the 1933 carb (which really is not a bad carb). Jon.

The internet shows the Royal 8 as being the model CT 274 CID engine. If this is correct, then the original carburetor would have been a Stromberg EX-32 which was probably the finest single barrel downdraft available in 1933. In 1936, Stromberg added a vacuum power system to the E series, and the EX carbs became EXV carbs, which gave slightly better fuel control under more than a normal load. In 1939, Stromberg obsoleted the E series, and brought out the B series, but by this time Chrysler had opted to discontinue the expensive Strombergs on other than their most expensive models, and were to the cheaper and much more troublesome Carter BBR series. While I really like MOST Carter carburetors, I cannot recommend the BBR series for anything other than numbers-matching show cars. Carter had so much trouble with them, Carter even offered a troubleshooting document for the BBR series alone. As Chrysler did not offer a B series Stromberg, one would have to do significant research on venturi size, etc. on the aftermarket BXOV series carbs, if one wanted the most up-to-date of the Strombergs. Zenith basically made this size single barrel ONLY for trucks or univesal application. If one is not interested in keeping the vehicle somewhat period original, then that opens up a whole spectrum of Rochester B's, Carter BBS, Carter YF, Holley 1904, Holley 1920, Zenith 28, and Zenith 228 carbs; NONE of which would be calibrated for the Chrysler engine, and would require fuel line, linkage, and air cleaner changes. An additional possibility requiring a manifold change is the 1937 Chrysler 274 is shown as using a two-barrel downdraft. I have no references that tell me whether or not the two-barrel intake will fit the CT. Jon.

Fuel leaking out the vent is due to too much fuel in the bowl. This may be caused by: (A) Too much fuel pressure (B) Defective carburetor float (C) Defective carburetor fuel valve (D) Incorrect carburetor float setting (E) Cracked carburetor housing (exceptionally rare) Since the fuel pump is foreign to the engine, would start there. If you bought one of the dial-type inline $34.95 regulators at a FLAPS, would suggest a fuel pressure gauge to see what the pressure actually is. I have not been overly impressed by tests we have run on this type regulator. Specified factory pressure for an AAV-26 is maximum 5 psi. If the pressure is 5 psi or less, then time to go into the carburetor. Jon.

The information in my files suggest the Hupmobile model S came with a Stromberg U-2 carburetor number A-13492. Most of the Stromberg type U-2 carbs were constructed of zinc alloy (a.k.a. white metal, "pot" metal, etc.), and over the years have cracked into dust. There are several different internal venturi sizes of the U-2, to allow the carb to be used on different sizes of engine. The part number WILL NOT appear on the carburetor. There is a gentleman in Australia that is reproducing some of the U-2 castings, and if one has an original U-2 with correct parts for his/her vehicle; new castings may be obtained and then transfer the other parts to the new castings. The Dodge Brothers Club used to import these castings. I do not know if this is still true. As to the Carter: Carter made their type BB-1 updraft carburetor in three different physical sizes, several different internal sizes, with approximately 70 different models. IF you have the proper size/configuration for your vehicle, it is an excellent replacement. Jon.

This link to our website may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm Note the paragraph on adjustment. Jon.

If your ceramic filter is not physically damaged, generally you can wash it in laquer thinner, followed by an overnight soak in vinegar to clean it. Be VERY CAREFUL about ordering a new ceramic element. There are many, often differing in size by only a 1/16 inch or so. Putting in the incorrect size will result in a cracked, useless, and non-returnable because it is broken element. Far safer to purchase a complete assembly with the new ceramic element, and let the vendor worry about getting the correct one. Jon.

Do you have any fishing sinkers? You have the Rochesters working. The e-clone is a pain in the (pick some part of your anatomy to fill in here). It won't fit the manfold without a less than efficient adapter, it will require major tuning, as well as an aircleaner, linkage, fuel lines, etc. The 390 Holleys will require a bunch of tuning; and in my experience will leak far worse than what you currently have. Call me if you wish more info on this. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

Willis - as I have never had issues with using the tapered plugs, I have never tried the solder, so don't know. Have not really seen any issues with the sealing surfaces being compromised, just the lead plugs with the ethanol fuel. The Carter plugs come out clean. Since I dig out the lead balls, they come out in pieces, so cannot really give an answer. I wonder if some of the failures may be due to individuals using chemicals on these castings that the castings were not designed to withstand. Don't know, just wondering. See all kinds of chemicals suggested on some of the various forums that were not used by the manufacturers. Not enough of a chemist to know whether damage might be done or not. Jon.