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Everything posted by carbking

  1. This link will give you carburetor numbers: Jon.
  2. Can add nothing to the comments concerning value, so won't try. However, as a general rule, an engine that smokes when cold and does not smoke when warm needs a choke adjustment. The choke is probably functional, or the engine would continue to smoke when hot. Auto chokes should be adjusted such that the choke valve just touches closed (no tension) with a cold engine, and an ambient of 68 degrees F. Jon.
  3. Kerosene has a energy content of 134,000 BTU/gallon; gasoline 117,600 BTU/gallon, and ethanol somewhere about 67,000 BTU/gallon. The mixture of kerosene and gasoline would contain more energy, but less octane. If such a mixture were used, fuel economy and power should be higher (provided there were no detonation); however, smog emissions would also be higher. PLease do not idle the vehicle in front of me in traffic ☺ Jon.
  4. US vehicles - the Pontiac GTO "Bonnie & Clyde" television ad from 1965. Second place to the Pontiac Endura bumper and the crowbar ad about 1968. Non-USA vehicles - the Kharman Ghia (sp?) that bounced off the banner instead of crashing through. Don't think it was aired in the USA. Not sure of year, but believe late 60's or early 70's. Runner-up - just about any VW commercial from the 1960's. If the beetle had been as good as the ad agency, there would be no other car companies in existance today! Jon.
  5. If the carbs are not vented, the system will run extremely rich. Another question would be did you maintain the original clearance in the front to rear rod when you converted to progressive manual linkage. Failure to maintain the proper clearance will result in poor idle quality. Jon.
  6. According to Hollander - no. Jon.
  7. "The other day it ran like crap until it idled on high for almost a half hour then it was great." If the engine ran great after idling for a 1/2 hour, then probably the carburetor, fuel pump, ignition, etc. are in good shape! A serious mistake (unless one lives very close to the equator) that some beginning hobbyists make is to block the heat crossover in the manifold to prevent the paint from burning off the engine. This can delay warm-up times depending on temperature for as much as an hour; and can make some older vehicles with automatic transmissions virtually undriveable for up to an hour. If the engine has been fairly recently done, look at the heat crossover. Is the paint still there, are has it burned off? Also, a missing, or non-functional heat riser can have the same result. The use of deathanol can add to the problem due to its properties of less energy and a much higher heat of vaporization. The use of 10 percent deathanol will require 20 percent more heat to vaporize than gasoline. The used of 15 percent deathanol will require 30 percent more heat to vaporize than gasoline. These percentages are marginally low, as (especially with 15 percent) the carburetor must be recalibrated to flow more fuel due to the lower energy content. As a higher percentage of deathanol may be added to boost octane, use the lowest octane fuel that does not have detonation issues. Jon.
  8. Heat related problems are generally ignition related (i.e. coil); however, with the Detroit carb, it could be the carburetor. If troubleshooting the ignition does not solve the problem, it would be worth-wide to look at the vanes and vane box on the Detroit. Using a suitable lifting device, insert the device through the air inlet for the carburetor, and determine a "feel" for the amount of resistance to lift the aspirator valve to maximum position. Once the engine is hot, use the lifting device and try to determine if the amount of resistance has changed, and if the valve is still lifting to the maximum position. Possibly some warpage, combined with heat, is preventing the aspirator valve (and vanes) from opening, restricting the engine power. Jon.
  9. Rick - while able to do basic wiring on either the car or the house, I don't come close to resembling an electronics whiz. I would suspect that some of the younger generation could build a circuit that would monitor BOTH water temperature AND choke plate deflection and create a very expensive electric choke that would work. The water sensor wouldn't be a challange, as a sending unit for a water temperature gauge could be used. However, a sensor to determine the deflection (position) of the choke plate might prove challanging. And then you still would have to build the electronics control circuit. As the old lady said when she kissed the cow "everyone to their own notion"; but I personally don't see the need. The hot air chokes work very well (although less well than a manual choke). Even if the hot air tube in the manifold is burned out, repair for a vehicle used as a driver is easy, and quite inexpensive. A heat stove that clamps to the outside of the exhaust manifold can easily be fabricated, and the heat tube from the carburetor run to this source. And maybe, just maybe, I am somewhat biased; as in an earlier lifetime, I put an electric choke on the wife's "driver". She got three blocks to a stop sign, the car stalled and would not restart for her. She called me to come get her, and I couldn't restart the engine either, until I removed the *&^%$#@ electric choke, had her work the ignition key, and I worked the choke butterfly by hand. I drove the car home, and put on a manual choke, which worked very well for her. The whole incident was somewhat embarrassing! The only "choke" issue that we have more calls on than the above, are from those who have read that filling the crossover will prevent paint burnoff and give more power. It does, and is somewhat does; and it causes horrible driveability issues. Jon.
  10. NTX - using a resistor could effect the timing of the electric choke, and might make it function better; but it still will be operated on time rather than as required by the engine. On 70's vehicles with automatics that require less warm-up, they are acceptable. On the older vehicles, just begging for trouble. I personally install manual chokes on all my old cars (except the one that was restored at a numbers matching). With the exception of that one (now sold) I drive my cars, and it sometimes gets cold in Missouri. I want the reliability and convenience of the manual choke. My dual quad 435 HP shop truck has .... a manual choke (on both carbs). And it will start easily at minus 15 (more easily than I start on those days!). Jon.
  11. Manual choke - gives best results, but requires operator intervention. Original hot air choke - gives excellent results, keeps vehicle original, and is worth more if vehicle is sold. Electric choke (on a vehicle this old with automatic) - gives unacceptable results! For best results, a choke should be keyed to engine temperature. The hot air choke (or some original water heated chokes) do this, as they are controlled by the temperature of the exhaust or water. The manual choke will do whatever the operator does with it. Electric chokes are timed. On older vehicles with automatic transmissions, the electric choke will go full open MUCH too soon. Typical results: drive three blocks, stop at stop sign or stop light, engine stalls, WILL NOT RESTART, call tow truck, blush profusely! If you use an A/M manual choke, remember to depress the footfeed before pulling the choke, as most A/M chokes do not remove the automatic choke lockout. Jon.
  12. Tom - we don't make anything for it. Linkert did print a very few A/M catalogs, but they sold very few A/M carbs. I do have a couple of their catalogs. As far as I know, their only big customer was Harley-Davidson. To the best of my knowledge, their A/M parts for other makes of carbs is what kept them going. Jon.
  13. Tom, the Linkert literature leads me to believe the carburetor you pictured is one of their A/M units, the Model R. It is my belief that the Model R Linkert was based on the then defunct Schebler Model T. No car company ever picked up the Linkert R, and I have no information that it was ever sold as O.E. on anything. In 34 years, we have had one request for a rebuilding kit for the R. We have several of the carburetors. Jon.
  14. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd bet a million bucks you haven't seen original dual-throats. The repros cost $25,000!!!.... And I don't think that includes a new intake, either. </div></div> Hey West - thank you so much!!! Please look up my address in my bio as to where to send the check. I have 2 complete ones! There are at least 3 different dual throat Detroit Lubricators. The first was used on the 1916 Regal; the second on Packard marine engines and subsequently on the early run of Speedsters; and the third on later Speedsters. Unfortunately, both of mine are for the Regal. I had an original third type, but it and I parted company a couple of years ago. Jon.
  15. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey, you don't suppose a little aspirin will help my Johnson start working, do you? </div></div> More apt to make you forget and live with the fact it doesn't work. Jon.
  16. West - cannot answer your question specifically, but one Packard enthusiast who has fabricating skills wanted to build one several years ago. As you may know, the Johnson R was a zinc alloy casting and a "thin-wall" casting at that. Have never seen one in good enough condition to rebuild. However, this enthusiast contacted me to see what I had in samples, and I sent him several broken examples to use as patterns, along with a box of aspirin. He called after receiving the samples, and we had a good laugh about the aspirin. A few years passed, and we talked from time to time, but his work schedule kept him from working with the Johnsons. Finally, he returned the Johnsons AND the aspirin (now outdated). Said since he no longer had the Johnsons, he didn't need the aspirin. Jon.
  17. Rick - lots of expensive cars (and boats) used the Schebler model S carbs. The major problem when new was with the primary air intake. Look closely at the drawing, and you can see two air intakes: The primary is on the bottom right, through the banjo fitting, the secondary is on the upper left (aux. air valve). When the engine is turned off, all of the fuel in suspension in the intake manifold and the throttle portion of the carburetor drops straight down and runs out the end of the banjo fitting (some models did not have the fitting, and the fuel just ran out under the carb). And while the Schebler has some complexity, if you really want to see complex, take a look at a drawing of a Rayfield carb, or the float arrangement on the Johnson used by Cadillac. The Schebler worked pretty well in its day (however, like most "automatic" carburetors, it doesn't like deathanol). Its biggest problem was leakage. Jon.
  18. It is a Schebler Model S. Don't get too close, the picture may catch on fire! Jon.
  19. carbking

    carb rebuild

    Since you have identified the carb, I would vote with Speedster; this is an easy one to do yourself, and another experience with your car. Kits are readily available. That model Carter is fairly bullet-proof, and very easy for a do-it-yourselfer. Jon.
  20. carbking

    carb rebuild

    Depends on the carburetor. If you have one of the Stromberg double E series from the 1930's, or the earlier Detroit Lubricators (some of which say Packard), Classic Carburetors in Phoenix would be a good place. These virtually always require at least some, and often a lot of custom machining which many shops are not set up to do. The newer carbs are less demanding. And due to a ridiculous backlog, we are not currently taking customer carbs. Jon.
  21. These were not produced in so low numbers as the Ebay seller suggested, as each dealer could have ordered them (at a price, they were not free to the dealers). Since this copy bears a GM library stamp, my guess would be that 6 were allocated to the GM library, and that is where the Ebay seller picked up the 6. Pontiac through the 1930's preached engineering superiority, and it was not unusual for a dealer album to be called an engineering book. While these items could have been ordered by any dealer, few early ones survive today, as most dealers then (and now) trashed this type of material each fall when the new year's information arrived. Generally speaking, each year would have a large (8 1/2 x 11 or as large as 11 x 16) "dealer" album as well as a salesman's pocket book, generally called a "facts book". Exceptions to this may be post WWII; as I have never seen or heard of the large manual for the years 1946~1949. If any have one, I would delight in being informed. All before 1950 are scarce, although there is both a 1939 and 1941 on Ebay at this time. From memory, we are still missing a couple of years in our library; 1928 and 1933, plus we need to upgrade some of the early years. Beginning in 1957, Pontiac divided the large album into two. One was a "presentation" album, with sales and specification data; the other a "colors and interior" album, with paint chips and interior swatches. The 1958 album was in the form of a fold-out attache case. I believe there is one of these currently on Ebay. In 1959, Pontiac reverted back to the 1957 format. These albums hold a wealth of information, but one needs to understand, especially on the later ones, that updates were sent to the dealers throughout the year. Generally, the dealers were less than proficient in updating the albums; thus most albums will be missing the mid-year updates. For example, virtually all of the 1957 albums are missing the Bonneville update. Jon.
  22. Bob - Thanks for posting, as I had not yet seen this one on Ebay. Pete - the 1940 version has a shot of the drivers door on the cover, is dark blue and white, wire spiral-bound, and has 116 pages. According to Pontiac documentation, the first one was printed in 1927. Jon.
  23. This forum is great! Parts lasted 20 minutes! Gone to Indiana. Jon.
  24. One of the reasons we are always out of room is I just hate to throw anything that might be usable away! So, we have 1 very old updraft Cadillac intake manifold with casting numbers that appear to be 50537-1. We also have 2 ancient REO castings. The first is an intake manifold with casting letters that appear to be IRAIB. The second is some type of tapered aluminum tube with flanges on both ends, maybe water, maybe air/fuel??? This piece has the name REO cast into the piece, and the casting letters IRA72-6. All pieces are free. Pick them up in Eldon Missouri; or we will ship them UPS. The shipping charge within the 48 contiguous United States on the Cadillac manifold is $16.00 and on the two REO items $14.00. Jon.