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carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Fuel leaking out the vent is due to too much fuel in the bowl. This may be caused by: (A) Too much fuel pressure (B) Defective carburetor float (C) Defective carburetor fuel valve (D) Incorrect carburetor float setting (E) Cracked carburetor housing (exceptionally rare) Since the fuel pump is foreign to the engine, would start there. If you bought one of the dial-type inline $34.95 regulators at a FLAPS, would suggest a fuel pressure gauge to see what the pressure actually is. I have not been overly impressed by tests we have run on this type regulator. Specified factory pressure for an AAV-26 is maximum 5 psi. If the pressure is 5 psi or less, then time to go into the carburetor. Jon.
  2. The information in my files suggest the Hupmobile model S came with a Stromberg U-2 carburetor number A-13492. Most of the Stromberg type U-2 carbs were constructed of zinc alloy (a.k.a. white metal, "pot" metal, etc.), and over the years have cracked into dust. There are several different internal venturi sizes of the U-2, to allow the carb to be used on different sizes of engine. The part number WILL NOT appear on the carburetor. There is a gentleman in Australia that is reproducing some of the U-2 castings, and if one has an original U-2 with correct parts for his/her vehicle; new castings may be obtained and then transfer the other parts to the new castings. The Dodge Brothers Club used to import these castings. I do not know if this is still true. As to the Carter: Carter made their type BB-1 updraft carburetor in three different physical sizes, several different internal sizes, with approximately 70 different models. IF you have the proper size/configuration for your vehicle, it is an excellent replacement. Jon.
  3. This link to our website may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm Note the paragraph on adjustment. Jon.
  4. If your ceramic filter is not physically damaged, generally you can wash it in laquer thinner, followed by an overnight soak in vinegar to clean it. Be VERY CAREFUL about ordering a new ceramic element. There are many, often differing in size by only a 1/16 inch or so. Putting in the incorrect size will result in a cracked, useless, and non-returnable because it is broken element. Far safer to purchase a complete assembly with the new ceramic element, and let the vendor worry about getting the correct one. Jon.
  5. Do you have any fishing sinkers? You have the Rochesters working. The e-clone is a pain in the (pick some part of your anatomy to fill in here). It won't fit the manfold without a less than efficient adapter, it will require major tuning, as well as an aircleaner, linkage, fuel lines, etc. The 390 Holleys will require a bunch of tuning; and in my experience will leak far worse than what you currently have. Call me if you wish more info on this. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.
  6. Willis - as I have never had issues with using the tapered plugs, I have never tried the solder, so don't know. Have not really seen any issues with the sealing surfaces being compromised, just the lead plugs with the ethanol fuel. The Carter plugs come out clean. Since I dig out the lead balls, they come out in pieces, so cannot really give an answer. I wonder if some of the failures may be due to individuals using chemicals on these castings that the castings were not designed to withstand. Don't know, just wondering. See all kinds of chemicals suggested on some of the various forums that were not used by the manufacturers. Not enough of a chemist to know whether damage might be done or not. Jon.
  7. Stromberg just drove the plugs into the holes. I too have seen what appears to be a lip over the ball, but believe it just to be an oxidation ring. The tests we have done on JB Weld with gasoline have always ended in failure if the gasoline touched the JB Weld. If it were mine, and it were leaking, I would replace the plugs. If it were not leaking, I would just inspect periodically. The plug is going to seep long before it falls out. When it starts seeping, replace. Personally, but this may not be true for others, if plugs needed replacing I would replace with Carter aluminum tapered plugs with a drop of blue Loctite. But then I have the plugs, so availability for me is not the issue it might be for others. The split shot sinkers do work, which is why I mentioned them earlier. I have never tried the Loctite with lead, so do not know how it would work. Once in a blue moon, I have needed a couple of plugs of a size I did not have, and simply machined them on a lathe. As I have stated previously, other than the obvious wrenches, pliers, and screwdrivers, etc., a hobby lathe and an a hobby vertical mill are two of the earliest tools which the enthusiast should buy. Jon.
  8. This CAN be an issue, but rarely is. If it is, obviously, it needs to be fixed. What we are discussing are passage plugs. Carter used copper in the 1930's and 1940's and then superceded the copper plugs with aluminum (probably due to cost, but I don't have that is writing). The Carter plugs were tapered, some had a starting diameter which was slightly smaller than the full diameter. The Carter plugs rarely leak, but after 60 or so years......nothing is permanent. Removing the Carter plugs is difficult. Using the original tool makes life easier, but expect to chop the heads off a few before you really master the technique (don't ask how I know). And once you chop off the head, you get to cautiously drill out the remains of the old plug! While this thread is not meant to be a sales pitch, if you follow the link below, then scroll down to T-109-43, you can see what the special tool looks like: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_tools.htm Replacing the Carter plugs is a simple matter of acquiring the correct size plugs, and using a drift punch and a hammer to install the new plugs (obviously after removing the old ones). If you don't wish to buy the correct plugs, read further. Rochester, Stromberg and Zenith used lead balls. They are much easier to remove than the Carter tapered plugs, as the lead is sufficiently soft one can drill a small hole through the center, and pry out the ball using an ice pick. The lead balls give more trouble than the Carter aluminum or copper plugs when used with ethanol fuel, plus as they are significantly softer, they tend to release more easily, so may tend to give more trouble in 60 year old carburetors even if ethanol is not used. Lead balls may be purchased, but those readers that are fishermen (or fisherwomen, got to be politically correct these days) will recognize the resemblence to the split shot sinker. The split shot sinker may be used. Simply get one that is somewhat larger than the hole, use a drift punch and hammer, and force it into the passage. Jon.
  9. Matt - if you don't wish to stray too far from stock; why not, instead of the Rochesters, try either a pair of Carters or a pair of Strombergs from a late 1940's Special or Super. Hook the linkage up solid. A sharp-eyed Buick owner might notice both have the starter switch, but other than that the engine would appear stock. If you go this route (or the Rochesters) just be sure both carbs have the same identification number. Jon.
  10. Try the folks at "Then and Now Automotive" in the Boston area. They may not have a starter, but they might; and I would bet they have the relay. They have tons of electrical stuff, and they are honest folks. 781-335-8860 is their shop number. Jon.
  11. Try cleaning the tube with Scotch-brite. It should have the part number stamped somewhere on the outside of the tube. It will be small, so a strong glass, a strong light, and a pair of "young eyes" are essential Wish I still had the last item If you cannot find the number, chances are your best bet for a new tube would be take the old one to a local machine shop and have one made, as you do have a pattern. Incidentally, there are THIRTY-ONE DIFFERENT BB updraft carburetors made for Chrysler! These include models for Plymouth, Dodge, Dodge Truck, Dodge Truck military, DeSoto, Chrysler, and Chrysler Marine. Jon.
  12. OK - will take a stab at this: The power valve - as you surmised, first in is the ball, then the spring, with the jet covering everything. It is not a cap, rather a jet. Note there is an orifice in the center. Different size orifices are used in different carburetors. You can test (to a degree) the spring. Once assembled, the spring should hold the ball closed with the mass of the step-up pushrod resting on the ball. The springs are in the better rebuilding kits. When the engine is in a low vacuum condition, the heavy spring in the top casting under the piston, pushes the pushrod down, opening the ball, and allowing fuel to flow, augmenting the main metering system. The fuel valve - there are at least 12 DIFFERENT fuel valves used in the various BB1 carbs. If you use the new one, reverse the plunger. The flat neopreme goes into the seat. The better kits have the correct valve for the specific carburetor. The idle tube - there are several different. Depending on the tag number of your carburetor, one for your carburetor may or may not be available. The internal orifice differs, as well as the length, from model to model. The fibre washers - as there are dozens of different BB1 carbs, there are a number of gaskets which may be in the kit which will not be used in your carburetor. If you get the generic kit, try to match them up. The better kits have the specific gaskets for your carburetor by tag number. I would suggest you NOT interchange parts from two different carbs; UNLESS you have the Carter bill-of-material for each carburetor and the part numbers are the same. Jon.
  13. I have uploaded a number of original Carter service documents to my website. These are published WITH authority from Carter Carburetor Company. These may be downloaded, printed, etc. as the needs of the reader. I would ask that any copies reference the source. These are published in Adobe Acrobat pdf format. We can provide MOST of the parts and special tools referenced by these documents. Link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_service.htm Note that in addition to service, there is also a document on BB downdraft issues. The BB downdraft carburetor (a.k.a. BBR-1, BBR-2) was Carter's least expensive, and by far their most troublesome carburetor; so troublesome that Carter felt the need for a troubleshooting document specific to the BB series carb. Jon.
  14. Matt - going back to your original post: There have been LOTS of really interesting things tried, many rejected, others modified over the years. With the internet, a lot of these things can be found, but even if they cannot be found, doesn't mean they didn't happen. For those that are interested, look up the Adams-Farwell car. Also, overhead cam engines were available in the early teens, don't remember exactly but 1913 seems to resonate in memory. One company ran a small exhaust pipe into the gas tank to pressurize the gas tank and thus eliminate gravity feed for early cars. Not much information on their success! One carburetor company built a capacitor out of a sheet of mica in the carburetor bowl to preheat the carburetor mixture! MUCH more common to either water-jacket or exhaust-jacket the carburetor, but like I stated, many things tried. Two-barrel carbs were tried as early as 1916. I have one of them in my museum. Probably the early equivilent of the 4-barrel/tripower discussion/argument would be the rotary throttle (Master, Winfield, etc.) carburetors versus conventional throttle valve carburetors. The rotary throttles were the rage for awhile, but what survived? And the sleeve valve engines have always amazed me. And or course, the super high mileage Pogue and Fish carburetors. Never was willing to spend the price for one of the Pogue's but have had (still have) a number of Fish. My mentor in the carburetor vocation did an extensive (1000 mile) comparison road test on the Fish versus the stock Holley on a 1963 Ford 6-cylinder. Time for a cup of coffee Jon.
  15. Padgett - the stock AFB's used by Pontiac were built on a 610 CFM frame, but after the "tripower insurance modification", were down to approximately 575 CFM. The AFB's Pontiac used on the SD's were totally different, with the smallest (even the one used on the 4 cylinder Tempest) being 625 CFM, and other increments of 700 CFM, 750 CFM, and 939 CFM. The CFM of the tripower is limited by the internal turbulence of the intake manifold where the number of plenums is not an even divisor into the number of cylinders; not the actual size of the carburetor. Pontiac found that the maximum CFM the 1966 tripower unit (with the improved higher manifold) would flow was 780 CFM, but this number DECREASED as the RPM increased - certainly NOT desirable in a high performance engine. Heflen - wasn't meaning to throw rocks at you, and sorry if you took it that way; was throwing rocks at the test. Lots of enthusiasts were (and still are) VERY annoyed that GM discontinued multiple carbs on everything but the Corvette, and replaced their beloved tripower with the Q-Jet. I believe the testers fit that category. As I stated, the Super Duty Department tried to make the tripower work for high performance work, and couldn't; thus it was rejected. Here is a picture of that aluminum SD intake casting number 540510: The SD people even modified one of the large aircleaners to use (MUCH less restrictive than the pie pans used for looks later on). The snorkels were removed from the large air cleaner, and seven oblong holes the same size as the snorkel holes were broached into the housing. But the tripower still could not compete. However, due to the "cool" factor, Pontiac continued to sell them to enthusiasts that wished the laws of physics could be ignored. And this is still very true today. We have done a very good job of rewriting much of history to suit our wishes, why not do the same with automobiles. But the facts still DID happen. There is no doubt a tripower looks absolutely great on an engine, more so than the more efficient single quad. Personally, I like the look of dual quads (which work!) even better than the looks of the tripower. But if everyone had the same idea of what looked the best, we would all drive the exact same vehicles.....boring. Also, Pontiac tried (and rejected) a single 6-barrel carburetor. And for those that truly believe the tripower is the greatest, I still have dozens of them available for sale. And just to offer proof about the modifications made to the AFB: Carter (as did other manufacturers) installed hot idle compensating valves on many of their carburetors. On the AFB, the hot idle compensator is located on the lower casting between the two secondary venturii. The valve is a temperature controlled valve which opens a metered vacuum leak into a passage right below the valve dropping down into the intake. This tended to lean out the mixture and prevent hot stalling in summer city traffic. In the picture below, part number 169-92 is used on non-Pontiac carbs, 169-66 on many Pontiac carbs with automatic transmissions, and 169-80 (DUMMY) used on many Pontiacs with standard transmissions EVEN THOUGH THE PASSAGE WAS NOT DRILLED! The wings on the 169-66 and the 169-80 reduced the amount of CFM available on the secondary side of the carburetor by about 35 CFM. Jon.
  16. OK - Pontiac PAID Carter to sabotage the secondary side of the Carter AFB used on the street Pontiac engines so the more expensive tripower street engines would not get beat by the 4-barrel engine! The more "exotic" and expensive tripower losing to the cheaper 4-barrel would have been embarrassing Substitute "road test" for "survey" in my above post and yours. Jon.
  17. In seemingly a different lifetime it has been so long ago, I took a graduate course in which one of the subjects was the creation of surveys. I was an adult at the time, and the instructor was a very good friend. I asked him during class what was the most important criteria in designing a survey. He thought about it a moment, and then stated: "the most important criteria in designing any survey is to remember who is paying for the survey". I knew what he meant, but for the benefit of the class, I asked him to elaborate. His comment: "If we are trying to determine the most popular non-alcoholic drink, and the two candidates are Nestle iced tea and Hershey hot chocolate, and Nestle was paying for the survey, we would NOT pass out ballots in Minneapolis in January"! The Pontiac Super Duty Department tested, and rejected the tripower for racing about 1961. They even cast an aluminum intake. But it didn't come close to a single AFB (let alone the larger Q-Jet). Pontiac settle on the single 4, the single 3 (NASCAR), and the 2x4 for their racing efforts prior to the infamous "get out of racing edict". Granted that this was the tripower with the smaller center carb and two larger ends, but it was competing against the Carter AFB 3010s, which was rated 625 CFM, not the larger 750 CFM Q-Jet. And of course, the manifold design was done at the same time. Jon.
  18. Matt - there have been some "interesting" things produced over the years; however, I am unaware of a "factory 3 4-barrel set-up". Doesn't mean some prototype wasn't tried at some time or another. In the future, you might be better served to suggest the topper produce the proof. Padgett - your memory is correct on the Carter 3-bbl as being a 3636s. Carter flowed it using both the 4-barrel criteria (939 CFM) and the 2-barrel criteria (1128 CFM). Somewhere, I have a copy of the actual flow test. I am unaware of what 3-barrel carbs may have been produced outside of the USA. To the best of my knowledge, three manufacturers produced a 3-barrel in the USA: Stromberg, then Carter, then Holley. The Carter has already been pictured. Here is the Stromberg: And no, gentlemen, that is NOT a photoshopped picture, I have possession of the carburetor. The bottom of the Carter 3636s has already been posted, here is the top: . The secondary linkage on this carburetor is set up on basically a one-to-one. When the primary opens, so does the secondary. Not too friendly on the street. I have modified a couple of them to have conventional secondary linkage for the street. I have a letter from Carter stating that only 15~20 of these were built; however, that is incorrect. When I was researching the Pontiac SD carbs many years ago, I found the existance of 24. I currently have two in my possession. Holley made both a 950 CFM and a 1050 CFM. I have had examples of both, but have them no longer. Jon.
  19. Joe - yes, this is true, HOWEVER: For those less interested in "numbers matching", or in this case original carburetors, we have had excellent success on the large engine by using two single carburetors from the small engine AND RUNNING BOTH SIMULTANEOUSLY! Also, once we set up a set of non-Buick carbs on the small engine, again running both carbs simultaneously. Running the carbs simultaneously REALLY helps the A/F ratio average for all cylinders, and results in much smoother performance, not to mention improved power AND economy. Really not that difficult to synchronize the two carbs running simultaneously, but synchronization should be done. Just to add a bit more information, Buick was working with Stromberg on compound carburetion as early as 1935! I have information in the Stromberg factory records that indicate Stromberg built some experimental SINGLE BARREL carburetors to be used in tandem for Buick in 1935. Of course, these never reached production. Obviously, the engineers were trying to get better cylinder fill ratios by spreading out the carburetors even then. And Keith, glad you are happy with your Carters; but there is something with your Strombergs not right. As I posted earlier, there should be no difference on a basically stock engine. Although it sounds like you have learned the ABC's of carburetion! (A)lways (B)uy (C)arter Jon.
  20. Engines are air pumps (with fuel and spark added). An air pump will pump a certain amount of air, depending on, among other things: RPM, displacement, and the efficiency of the pump. A carburetor will flow a certain amount of air. Two carburetors of exactly the same size will NOT flow exactly twice the amount of air as one when both are installed together on one engine. So, when dual carbs are used on basically the same engine, FOR BEST RESULTS, each carb should be somewhat smaller than a single carb. From memory (not always a good idea), the 1940 Buick single carb on the large engine had a main venturi size of 1 3/16 inch, and the dual carbs of 1941 for the same engine had a main venturi size of 1 1/16 inch. Thus, each of the two 1941 carbs was approximately 20 percent smaller. When one considers the factor mentioned in paragraph three above, the two smaller carbs of 1941 PROBABLY (without having data from a flow bench) would flow a total of 20~25 percent more total air than the 1940 single carburetor. Jon.
  21. Don - BEFORE throwing rocks at your accelerator pump and buying a kit, try these two links: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Acceleratorpumps http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold If you DO require a kit, ask if the accelerator pump cup is leather or synthetic. The synthetic pumps do not hold up nearly so well as leather. Thomas (post above) is correct about the number STAMPED, NOT RAISED, on the airhorn (top casting). Buick carbs should be a 7-nn or 7-nnn where the nn or nnn represents a two or three digit number. There may, or may not, be a letter following the number. If present, the letter is an engineering status. Jon.
  22. If both are professionally rebuilt and the engine is reasonably stock, the results should be equal. The Carter are easier to modify for a modified engine because of the metering rod technology. Jon.
  23. Buick and Packard. As far as the Mopar solenoids are concerned, the Carter version is in a metal triangular shaped can, and rarely suffered physical damage; so reasonable in price if needed. The Stromberg version was bakelite, often broken, and DIFFICULT to find. Jon.
  24. As far as I am aware: The Holley model NH was introduced in 1921, and used on the Ford model T. Again, as far as I am aware, the 2 cylinder I.H.C. used Schebler model D carburetors up through the 1915 model year. I know this carb was used, but other carbs MAY have been used. Many early vehicles had more than one carb supplier, and original sources are quite scarce. Also, have you been on this forum: https://oldihc.wordpress.com/ Jon.
  25. Have listed a bunch of these, some of which are quite difficult to find (if I were a "professional" ebay vendor, I would say they are RARE ...what an overworked word !), on ebay, and will be listing more. It takes me about 30 minutes to take and edit the pictures, type up the description, and list a single auction on ebay; thus they don't all go out at the same time. Either search on pontiac press kits, or search by vendor. On ebay as here, my user name is carbking. Jon.
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