carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. 1955 through 1960 manifolds will fit the 1955 cylinder heads. Newer cylinder heads will fit the block, thus allowing newer manifolds to fit (provided the cylinder heads are also changed). Lots of selection available in the 1955~1960 manifolds without having to change the heads. Jon.
  2. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello all, just a note to tell you I have been "MONKEYING" with both the 4-GC and the 2-GC on my Olds cars and have found that you MUST get the carb to behave before you can adjust the slim jim. Most of all on both carbs, the fuel must cover the jets completely when you pull the top of the carb off. I wish there was a fuel level mark in the bowl. When I used the shop manual settings I had insufficient fuel levels to maintain smooth operation under all conditions. Once I made sure the bowls remained about half full 1/8" to 1/4" above the top of the jets every thing settled down. I found this to be true with both carbs. I hope this helps you some. Good luck, Dave </div></div> Dave - some of the Rochester carbs take the measurement to the seam of the float, not the distance from the float to the airhorn. Also, late production 1961 two barrels got a change in float dimension that would not be in the shop manual. Jon.
  3. As far as I am aware, Zenith is the only company still in business producing updraft carburetors. There are a number of companies who have built universal (and sometimes specific) replacement carburetors over the years. In my opinion, the better ones are: Zenith (63, 263 series - obsolete) (9.5 scale 1 - 10)(price reasonable, parts reasonable) Stromberg (SF, SFM series - obsolete) (9.5 scale 1 - 10) (price reasonable, parts expensive) Carter (BB updraft series - obsolete) (9 scale 1 - 10) (price very expensive, parts reasonable) Zenith (68, 267 series - current) (6 scale 1 - 10) (price inexpensive, parts inexpensive) Sizes: S.A.E. size 1 and 2 (all of the above) S.A.E. size 3 (Zenith 63, 263; Stromberg SF, SFM series; Carter BB updraft) S.A.E. size 4 and 5 (Zenith 63, 263 series; Stromberg SF, SFM series) Caviats: Both the Zenith 63 and Stromberg SF series had some use on stationary engines (no power circuit, no pump circuit). This is also true of the current production Zenith units. Many individuals prefer to have these circuits present. The Carter had many original uses. To be really useful, one should have the extended throttle shafts and externally adjustable main metering jet (or be calibrated for a specific application by a professional). Most newer carburetors are designed to be used with a fuel pump (pressure). If one applies one of these to a vehicle which is gravity feed, one needs to modify the fuel inlet valve in the carburetor. Over the years, we have sold several hundred of the above units; so have quite a bit of experience with them. There were other companies producing replacement carburetors. We have a listing somewhere of about 500 different carburetor companies; but the above would be our recommendations. Jon.
  4. Cannot help with the automatic trans problem. Personally have never found a good use for these; as they are too heavy for paper weights and an inefficient shape for a boat anchor <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> As to the 4GC, a very fine example of an early 4-barrel carburetor. These carbs are virtually "bullet-proof". As mentioned, the throttle body to bowl gasket is one that needs to be correct for the specific carburetor (by tag number). Rochester used the cut-outs (on some models) to control hot idle vapors (internal pressure) which builds in this area of the carburetor during city driving and idling. Especially critical with modern fuel (and ethanol), as vapor pressure is MUCH higher than it used to be. Some of the generic kits are simply best avoided. Jon.
  5. The three line filter is a "modern" convenience that was designed to help prevent vapor lock in air conditioned modern vehicles. Many different varieties are available at your local auto parts store. Find a store with a "buyers guide" and acquire the filter that will best fit your needs. As to instructions: (A) line in (from fuel pump) ( line out (to carburetor) © restricted, or vapor line out (run NEW line from this to dump into fuel tank). As mentioned by others, a non-sealing fuel pump could also cause you problems, but your post mentions this only occurs when very hot at low RPM, which is why my guess is vapor lock. Jon.
  6. There are three different main configurations (different bodies) and MANY different UUR-2 carburetors. These are not necessarily interchangeable. While any UUR-2 carb is difficult to find, best to attempt to find at least the proper configuration rather than try to modify the wrong one. Jon.
  7. Sounds like vapor-lock. Adding a three-line filter at the carburetor, and running a return line back to the tank allows the fuel pump to continuously pump, and keeps vapor out of the line. Jon.
  8. carbking

    Carburetor

    When setting an automatic choke, the following procedure may be used: (A) the choke must be adjusted with a cold engine. ( choke is calibrated for adjustment at 68 degrees F., but an ambient of 65~70 is close enough © remove the air cleaner. (D) push the footfeed to the floor once, and then release. This initiates the choke linkage. (E) have a helper open the throttle of the carburetor approximately half way, and hold. (F) loosen the choke cover retainers (integral choke). (G) rotate the choke cover such that the choke butterfly opens. (H) rotate the choke cover in the opposite direction, until the butterfly just touches closed. (I) tighten the choke cover retainers. (J) helper may now release the throttle. If the choke adjustment is checked when the ambient is outside the 65~70 degree F. range; the choke butterfly will be somewhat open if the temperature is more, or closed with tension if the temperature is less. Jon.
  9. If NTX4567 guessed correctly, and you have the e-clones; probably best to find a Chevy dude to swap the e-clones, and try to find the proper carb for your Buick. Jon.
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, I bought from Westwood a can of spray that supposedly is for carburetors but the color does not match the original. Does anyone know where I can find the correct color? Thanks </div></div> In 1953 Oldsmobile used both Carter and Rochester carburetors. For the Rochester, the zinc alloy parts would have been "chromated", a chemical process which etches the metal for oxidation protection leaving a "greenish-goldish" finish. The steel pieces would have been electro-plated with yellow zinc. The active ingredient in the "chromate" mix is chromic acid, a carcinogen, which is not available to the hobbyist. The castings, if chromated, must be sent to a "metal-laundry" company. For the Carter, the zinc alloy parts would have been chromated. The steel pieces would have been electro-plated. Carter used white zinc, yellow zinc, white cadmium, and yellow cadmium for plating; however the majority was white zinc. Carters with cast-iron throttle bodies had the cast iron painted with a proprietary paint which was about a 60 percent gloss. Other manufacturers (in this time period) did not paint the cast iron. Jon.
  11. You might want to check these numbers, as neither appear as assigned numbers in the Carter literature. 3503s is a Buick carb. Jon.
  12. Good to have another older vehicle on the road. Congratulations!. Jon.
  13. Often a backfire through the carburetor indicates other problems (sticking intake valve, carbon track in distributor, etc.). You mentioned a tune-up was done. How extensive was the tune-up? I would suggest beginning with a compression check. If compression is good, I would then revisit the tuneup from a "testing" standpoint. Find someone locally who can hook up a diagnostic scope to the ignition; and observe the firing voltages at the plugs, as well as the overall condition of the ignition system (a defective spark plug wire will cause a carburetor backfire). If both the compression and ignition test good, then check the fuel delivery system (a partially clogged fuel filter can cause a carburetor backfire, and could also cause the engine to not run long). Also check the vent on the fuel tank to make sure it is open. The next step would then be the carburetor. The idle mixture control screws should be approximately 1 full (360 degree) turn out from lightly seated. Fast idle and idle RPM should be adjusted to the specification given in your owners manual. If the vehicle has been sitting without running for a long period of time, the carburetor may be stopped up with residue from evaporating modern fuel (this normally causes a backfire through the exhaust) and may need to come apart, cleaned, and reassembled with a repair kit. My guess is you will solve the problem before you get to the carburetor. Jon.
  14. Rochester carburetors produced prior to the 1968 model year are easily identified by tag only. The Clean Air Act 1966 Amendment (covering automobile emissions) took effect with the 1968 model year. As the carburetor is considered to be a part of the emissions system, it became necessary for positive identification, in order to be able to detect "tampering". Thus 1968 and newer Rochesters are "roll stamped" with the identification number. The 2 barrels carbs are stamped horizontally on the bowl (center section) on the side opposite the throttle arm. Positive identification of Rochesters built prior to 1968 is very difficult at best if the tag is missing. One item to look for is that factory tripower END carburetors would have no idle mixture control screws, and the throttle body would not be machined for idle mixture control screws. Jon.
  15. Very difficult to send you an email when your email address is not listed in your profile. Jon.
  16. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Steve, All the Penberthy Ball and Ball carbs that I have and have seen are brass. Joel </div></div> The early Penberthy carbs were brass; the later ones zinc alloy (pot metal). Quite rare to find a zinc alloy Penberthy that is still intact, but they were produced. Jon.
  17. There are no aftermarket carbs which are direct replacements; ie the e-clone mentioned by others in this thread has a different size air intake, and would require a different air cleaner; not to mention MAJOR calibration changes would be required. Much better to keep the original factory carb unless you have made other major performance changes to the engine. The Carter AFB is probably the easiest of all 4 barrel carburetors to rebuild. My suggestion would be acquire the factory shop manual and a good carburetor rebuilding kit; and do it yourself. If you have never rebuilt a carburetor, find a local friend who has, and do it together. TIP - read the carburetor section in the manual before you disassemble the carburetor. The only caviat is to remember that the very last parts you put back are the metering rods. Jon.
  18. 4 1/2 pounds is within the range specified by the manufacturer; however, with the vapor pressure of modern fuel, the fuel pressure may expand to much more than the 4 1/2 pounds when driving. If the carburetor is the culprit, visually check the fuel valve and fuel valve seat. Also, the brass float is easy to test by submerging in hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air in the float, causing a stream of bubbles at any leak. Also, an engine with a PERFECT fuel system will blow black smoke, have sooty plugs and tailpipe, and deliver poor mileage if ignition problems exist. Two components of the ignition system often overlooked are plug wires and coil. Jon.
  19. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know what the market is like for a Toyota Corona that runs. Someone could fix it up and it would be in great shape with little effort. I just need to sell it and don't know how to go about it. Does it apeal to classic buyers or is it junk? Anyone with some info please let me know what I should do. </div></div> Doubt that it would appeal to a large number of "classic" buyers, but the standard transmission versions would average 35 plus MPG on 85 octane fuel. That might appeal to someone! The automatics were basically Chevy powerslides (toyoglide), and still would average 26 or so MPG. Jon.
  20. Probably the reason The Carburetor Shop did not suggest an alternative is insufficient or conflicting information was given, or the question was not asked. What is the application for the Continental 11E? All of the information in our files suggests that the Stromberg used on the Continental 11E was a cross-flange carburetor (TX-2). There are no records in the existing (mostly complete) Stromberg files suggesting that a T-2 was used on the Continental 11E; however, there are a few holes in the files. Replacing a T-2 is quite easy, as there are a number of universal units which may be used, in different qualities and different price ranges. Replacing a TX-2 with a more modern carburetor is often quite difficult; as the more modern units are a straight-flange carburetor, thus requiring a cross-flange adapter. Often the space required for the cross-flange adapter will cause a physical interference. Generally, the best replacement (albeit expensive) for the TX-2 is the earlier brass OX-2. One simply must calibrate the OX-2 to duplicate the calibration in the TX-2. Jon.
  21. Wanted - looking for issues of "Pontiac Owners Magazine", published by Pontiac Motor Division of GM in the years 1939 through 1942. Also looking for other Pontiac magazines to include "Pontiac Warrior" and "Pontiac Cooperation"; as well as the GM publication "GM Folks". Have now completed my set of "Pontiac Safari", so do not need these. Would also be interested in other Pontiac magazines not listed. Jon.
  22. 1 - 1996 Ford Aerostar 4.0 4x4 2 - <5000 commute, about 25,000 total 3 - Hwy about 24, city about 16 4 - No 5 - No 6 - Do not believe the hype 7 - No! Will bicycle first! Congratulations on your graduation!!! Jon.
  23. carbking

    Carburetors

    With all due respect to Eric, who seems to be happy with his eclone; the eclone is calibrated for a "screamer" engine (low torque, high RPM), whereas the Packard engine is more of a "torquer" (high torque, lower RPM). If cost is no object, the eclone can be modified. However to make it work as well (not better) as a rebuilt (assuming the rebuilder knows what he/she is doing) original Rochester 4-GC; the eclone would need different rods, springs, jets (both primary and secondary), the auxiliary air valve; and machine work done to the primary venturi clusters (location of the idle tubes and airbleeds). Not saying the eclone won't work; simply saying that without major modifications, it won't work as well. The above comments for a normally driven street vehicle. Remember the current price of gasoline. If going faster is your thing; then, with major modifications, there is probably more horses available with the eclone than with the original 4-GC as the CFM can be larger (however, there are larger 4-GC's available as well). Personal reccommendations: (A) for normal street use, go with the original; (B)for going faster, try a larger 4-GC (Palmer marine has one for a 355 CID which is a 625 CFM) or a genuine Carter AFB (preferably from a Pontiac 389 or a Chrysler 383, as these engines more closely resemble the Packard fuel curve, thus fewer and easier modifications). For someone who is a whiz at welding, would love to see results of grafting a spread-bore plenum and flange on the runners of a Packard manifold and install a Rochester quadrajet or Carter thermoquad. The square-bore to spread-bore adapters just don't cut it. Jon.
  24. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Carbking, thanks for the posting. Great information on the 0-speed times, now I don't feel so bad, I went 0-60 in about the same as your posting, I just need to learn how to drive at 25mph.... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />. Quick question while your still reading this. I thought I would have ported vacuum for my dist advance, it appears to be constant. Would you know if thats correct? and then the next question would be timing of the engine with or without the vacuum hooked up at 500 rpm. </div></div> Will have to defer these questions to someone else, as I do not know. My expertise is in the carburetors themselves, and in Pontiacs. Glad you liked the post on the road test. Jon.
  25. My guess would be that the person or persons responsible for naming the WCFB are no longer with us; so would agree we will probably never know for sure. A couple of the gentlemen that told me Will Carter Four Barrel were with Carter in the 1950's, so I give credence to their comments. As to "wrought cast" versus "white cast", I won't try to argue the semantics of this because I flat don't know. However consider that in the 1920's and 1930's Carter was calling their iron bodies "wrought". Most Carter Carburetors beginning in 1932 had a type designation beginning with a "W" and had iron bases. These include the W-1, W-2, and WA-1 single barrel; and the WD-0 (zero, not "ohh"), WCD, and WGD two barrel. The WCFB's had aluminum airhorns; either iron or aluminum throttle bodies; and only the bowl, choke housings, and pump housing were contructed from "zinc alloy" or "white metal" or "pot metal". Is is possible that the official designation changed? Of course it is. The offical company line in the 1970's and 1980's (before Federal Mogul) was Will Carter Four Barrel (see the Dave Emanual book "Carter Carburetors"). Fortunately, we do not have to know why the type designation was picked. The important issue is that the WCFB was, and remains, a pretty good carburetor. Jon.