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About AVS619

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1951

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    I grew up in Maywood, IL prior to moving to Wisconsin. I now live east of Madison in a small town. My wife and I are interested in pre-1915 automobiles as well as classic cars. We are into antique bicycles and WWII aviation and often can be found where there are stream locomotives. I am aspiring to be an historic writer. My wife is a graphic and fine artist seeking automotive and aviation art assignments. We are editors of our regional club newsletter.

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  1. Hello alsfarms! Thanks for the reply. Can you recommend one?
  2. I am restoring a 1911 IHC J30 touring that was pulled from a barn in 1991. Yes, I've owned it that long but life got in the way and has resulted in a very slow restoration. I have discovered that one rear leaf spring set has cracked springs. I need one complete rear spring set. There are seven leaves top and on the bottom and the leaves had tags or dog ears. I have seen many IHC high wheel springs but they are not the same as those used on a J30. Can anyone help? I'll see if I can post a photo of the good rear spring set but I can't use my right arm due to surgery and can't get the spring off the shelve for a photo. I'll see if I can get some help but wanted to get my wanted need out as soon as possible.
  3. Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Looks like a lot of tedious work ahead of me (good thing I retired!) but this car is worth it. My wife bought it for my 40th birthday and that was quite some time ago (real life often gets in the way) and it was a real barn find (see photo). All the mechanics, brass and sheet metal have been restored and now down to the 'smaller' bits. It has been more than forty years since I did this sort of work and I appreciate the advice!
  4. I am not sure this is the correct place to post but I need some help in the restoration of my 1911 IHC J-30. I have returned to work on it after long absence (hard to do at present as I can not use my left hand due to surgery but it has to get done). Attached is a factory photo of the car and photos of representative problems. Most metal parts, after de-rusting and cleaning, are pitted. The car sat from 1921 to 1991 and anything metal not covered in grease or oil got pits. Even the nuts and bolts are pitted. My question is, what is the best kind of filler to use to fill the pits before painting? My promise to the original owners family was that I would use all the original parts, with a few safety exceptions. So, I need to fill, sand and prime them but need to know the best product for this. Thank you in advance!
  5. Starvagabond, can you tell me what a V-3 engine is? I have had a number of IHC's, currently have three but only one high wheel, and I have never heard of a V-3 engine. The water cooled two-cylinder engine on this one looks correct to me. Mine is very similar except air-cooled. Also, why would this car vehicle depreciate? There appears to be quite a demand for high wheel automobiles right now. If I did not have three IHC's I would bid on it in a heartbeat.
  6. Well, just to put my two-cents in on the topic the Golden Age for me was about 1966 to 1980. I joined AACA and HCCA at age 15 in late 1966 and would attend the Lake Forest and Momence car shows every year, among many others. The show fields were full of brass-era cars, my favorite, as well as twenties and thirties cars including classic cars. It felt like it took all day just to walk through the show cars let alone looking for parts at the vendors and yes, most vendors were in the hobby, not professionals. Back then, to a young me, the car shows were like Christmas, my birthday and the Fourth of July all rolled into one. I do miss that time. The shows have really changed over the years and I rarely go now. But, my wife and I have gotten into touring with our brass-era cars (indeed, we are hosting a four day tour here in Wisconsin next week if the weather will permit) so I guess if I were to focus only on touring this would be our Golden Age. Still, I would like to acquire some more brass-era cars but now that I am retired, the prices they bring will not allow that to happen.
  7. The side and tail lamps of my 1911 IHC J 30 are in poor condition but original to the car. They are a brand I don't know of, the Indiana Lamp Co in Connersville, Ind. Before I purchase reproduction E & J's, is there anyone who restores these lamps other than Rick Britten. I have nothing against Rick, his work is impeccable, but I can't afford his prices now that I had to retire. If you know of anyone, or you restore them yourself, please let me know. Thank you indeed!
  8. Thank you to everyone that replied. I had never thought of a jump starter. I'll have to look into that and I appreciate the battery information too. Sorry for my delay in thanking everyone. Got sidetracked which is leading up to an MRI on Wednesday. I don't have a starter on may car so I crank start it. I am right handed and now my right shoulder is an 'issue' and with four days of touring coming up, I've got to get this fixed. Thank you all again!
  9. On my last tour with a 1909 Regal my12v battery gave out on the last day (3 day tour). The battery is used to start the car (hand crank) then switch to magneto. It is also connect to the brake lights and turn signals but that is all. I noticed that the indicator lights on the tum signal switch were growing dimmer and after the stop for lunch, the batter was dead and I could not crank start the car. I got a jump from a more modern car (1960) and made it back to the trailer. The battery I was using was a lawn tractor battery about three years old but fully charged at the start of the tour. Now I have a four day tour coming up and would like to know what kind of battery others use so I can replace this one with one that will take four days of touring. Again, the battery is only used to start the car (switch set to B) then run on magneto (switch moved to M) and is used to power the run signals and bake lights. Would s 12v Optima be a good choice? Should I use two batteries? Are there any batteries out there that are not a heavy as a lead-acid battery? I could use some advice. My wife was a bit unhappy that once again we did not finish a tour. The four day tour is being hosted by us so the car not making it would be a real issue.
  10. Join The Wheelmen. I am always looking for high wheel, hard- tired and other early safeties and since my wife has a 1925 Pierce Arrow, I would love to have a Pierce bike. Send me a message if you have anything for sale now or in the future.
  11. Hi Tim. I did not now that you bought Dave's stuff. Please let me know when you have this up and running. Dave was going to make up one that has an alternator or generator in it to charge the battery but alas, that never happened. Email me at brasscars@charter.net when you have some for sale.
  12. Hello. Thank you for your replies. I have been looking into this for quite some time, I live close to where it occurred in Jefferson County, but what eludes me is the actual route. A very crude drawing of the route is available and suggests that the two went through Fort Atkinson and Milton but no real proof yet as to what road was taken. Local papers and historical societies have not been too helpful so far but I have not been able to go and try to research their archives. I'll keep working on it but had hoped that out there somewhere was some data that someone already found. Thank you again for your responses.
  13. My wife and I are hosting a brass-ear car tour here in south central Wisconsin (mostly Jefferson and Dodge Counties). What occurred in this area was the 1878 race of basically steam traction engines from Green Bay to Madison Wisconsin. What I can't seem to find out with any certainty is the route. I have a general route but I would like to know with more specificity the route taken from Waupun, through Watertown and Fort Atkinson to Janesville and possibly going though Milton, WI. Obviously the goal is to identify parts of the route so that we may drive on some of it. So, if anyone knows of this race and what routes were actually driven and/or where I might obtain this information I will be most grateful. By the way, if you own a brass-era car and are interested in joining us on the tour next June (2nd-7th) please let me know. Contact Tom at brasscars@charter.net.
  14. I am getting the 1909 Regal ready for a tour. I have never had a 1909 instruction book but found one for 1910. The car has a transaxle with transmission and rear end connected. The instruction book tells one to fill the transmission 2/3 full of No 3 Cayuga grease. Anyone hear of Cayuga grease? What might be a better, more modern and available alternative? This grease is supposed to be used in the rear differential also. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Tom.
  15. Hello to all who responded (Hi Greg, if you remember me). I appreciate all the information. I did track down the problem (I think) to the needle and levers (and I believe the pins are worn). But, just after I posting the original question in 2016 both my wife and I became hipsters. By that I mean we both underwent surgeries to replace hips, she one and me two. So, no work has been done on the Pierce. I would like to find a parts carburetor to have replacement needle, arms, pins and cover (anyone have a Series 80 parts carburetor or those parts they would part with?). Despite deeply in love with Pierce-Arrows and other early automobiles I am not a good machinist/mechanic so I really could use some parts. As I write that I kind of wonder why I am in the hobby with many brass-era and classic cars without the skills to repair them but my hips have retired me and perhaps I can learn them now with my new 'free time'. Thank you again for all who replied. Tom