AVS619

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About AVS619

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  • Birthday 11/27/1951

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    I grew up in Maywood, IL prior to moving to Wisconsin. I now live east of Madison in a small town. My wife and I are interested in pre-1915 automobiles as well as classic cars. We are into antique bicycles and WWII aviation and often can be found where there are stream locomotives. I am aspiring to be an historic writer. My wife is a graphic and fine artist seeking automotive and aviation art assignments. We are editors of our regional club newsletter.

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  1. Thank you to everyone that replied. I had never thought of a jump starter. I'll have to look into that and I appreciate the battery information too. Sorry for my delay in thanking everyone. Got sidetracked which is leading up to an MRI on Wednesday. I don't have a starter on may car so I crank start it. I am right handed and now my right shoulder is an 'issue' and with four days of touring coming up, I've got to get this fixed. Thank you all again!
  2. On my last tour with a 1909 Regal my12v battery gave out on the last day (3 day tour). The battery is used to start the car (hand crank) then switch to magneto. It is also connect to the brake lights and turn signals but that is all. I noticed that the indicator lights on the tum signal switch were growing dimmer and after the stop for lunch, the batter was dead and I could not crank start the car. I got a jump from a more modern car (1960) and made it back to the trailer. The battery I was using was a lawn tractor battery about three years old but fully charged at the start of the tour. Now I have a four day tour coming up and would like to know what kind of battery others use so I can replace this one with one that will take four days of touring. Again, the battery is only used to start the car (switch set to B) then run on magneto (switch moved to M) and is used to power the run signals and bake lights. Would s 12v Optima be a good choice? Should I use two batteries? Are there any batteries out there that are not a heavy as a lead-acid battery? I could use some advice. My wife was a bit unhappy that once again we did not finish a tour. The four day tour is being hosted by us so the car not making it would be a real issue.
  3. Join The Wheelmen. I am always looking for high wheel, hard- tired and other early safeties and since my wife has a 1925 Pierce Arrow, I would love to have a Pierce bike. Send me a message if you have anything for sale now or in the future.
  4. Hi Tim. I did not now that you bought Dave's stuff. Please let me know when you have this up and running. Dave was going to make up one that has an alternator or generator in it to charge the battery but alas, that never happened. Email me at brasscars@charter.net when you have some for sale.
  5. Hello. Thank you for your replies. I have been looking into this for quite some time, I live close to where it occurred in Jefferson County, but what eludes me is the actual route. A very crude drawing of the route is available and suggests that the two went through Fort Atkinson and Milton but no real proof yet as to what road was taken. Local papers and historical societies have not been too helpful so far but I have not been able to go and try to research their archives. I'll keep working on it but had hoped that out there somewhere was some data that someone already found. Thank you again for your responses.
  6. My wife and I are hosting a brass-ear car tour here in south central Wisconsin (mostly Jefferson and Dodge Counties). What occurred in this area was the 1878 race of basically steam traction engines from Green Bay to Madison Wisconsin. What I can't seem to find out with any certainty is the route. I have a general route but I would like to know with more specificity the route taken from Waupun, through Watertown and Fort Atkinson to Janesville and possibly going though Milton, WI. Obviously the goal is to identify parts of the route so that we may drive on some of it. So, if anyone knows of this race and what routes were actually driven and/or where I might obtain this information I will be most grateful. By the way, if you own a brass-era car and are interested in joining us on the tour next June (2nd-7th) please let me know. Contact Tom at brasscars@charter.net.
  7. I am getting the 1909 Regal ready for a tour. I have never had a 1909 instruction book but found one for 1910. The car has a transaxle with transmission and rear end connected. The instruction book tells one to fill the transmission 2/3 full of No 3 Cayuga grease. Anyone hear of Cayuga grease? What might be a better, more modern and available alternative? This grease is supposed to be used in the rear differential also. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Tom.
  8. Hello to all who responded (Hi Greg, if you remember me). I appreciate all the information. I did track down the problem (I think) to the needle and levers (and I believe the pins are worn). But, just after I posting the original question in 2016 both my wife and I became hipsters. By that I mean we both underwent surgeries to replace hips, she one and me two. So, no work has been done on the Pierce. I would like to find a parts carburetor to have replacement needle, arms, pins and cover (anyone have a Series 80 parts carburetor or those parts they would part with?). Despite deeply in love with Pierce-Arrows and other early automobiles I am not a good machinist/mechanic so I really could use some parts. As I write that I kind of wonder why I am in the hobby with many brass-era and classic cars without the skills to repair them but my hips have retired me and perhaps I can learn them now with my new 'free time'. Thank you again for all who replied. Tom
  9. Hello All. Sorry but we had to go out of town (my wife lost a college friend to cancer) and just now saw your replies. Thank you all for your information. I have all Gazettes from the last 50 years which means I need to look up the issue about green grabber. Has anyone else used green grabber? Can one install it oneself or should a professional do so? The pressure on the pedal issue is due to my new hip. Only recovered and 80% so I do not have the leg strength I used to. Thank you all for your help! Tom
  10. This forum has been of great help as I return to the hobby from years of surgery so now I am down to a brake lining question. I have two cars with steel brake drums (wish they were cast iron but alas, no). The lining that is on the shoes on both cars is old and basically useless. So my question is what is a good lining material for steel drums that will actually stop the car rather than just slow it down a bit? I want to be safe driving these cars as I am rather tired of hospital visits. I heard yesterday of a lining called Green Grabber. Anyone ever use it? I guess I also have another question too. Any shops out there that can install brake lining on brake shoes as old as those on a brass-era car? Thanking you in advance for any help. Now that the cars are running and driving (well, at least these two) it would be nice to be able to stop them too! Tom.
  11. My restorer friend was able to repair the 'un-repairable' Remy magneto on my 1909 Regal and the car is running again. But, he put Amsoil synthetic oil in the engine. I know it is a great oil but hard to find where I live and since the Regal does leak oil, it is too expensive, especially when on a tour when the car goes through a quart of oil (sometimes more) a day. Thus, I want to switch to a less expensive, more available, synthetic oil. Any suggestions as to what to use and, can I cause any problems by using something other than Amsoil now that it has already been put in the engine already? Thank you in advance for any information.
  12. Hello C Carl! Thank you for your advice, I appreciate it. I just found out that a restorer I know and have worked with down in Illinois sells Amsoil so I will contact him. I trust him as he got my 1909 Regal running again by fixing the magneto that none of the magneto professionals would touch, a Remy L. It puts out a strong spark now even though all the 'professionals' said Remys could not be fixed and the would not touch it for anything. Oh well! My surgeries have been due to arthritis in my right hip and then, I took a bit of a fall off a retaining wall and fractured my left hip in such a way that all that could be done was another replacement. After that, my knee caused problems and it has recently been 'scoped'. One more issue, my back, needs to be addressed. In all of this, the cars have just sat waiting for me. Time to get back on the road this year and maybe even a one day tour on Sunday, bar any rain. Thank you again and take care!
  13. Hello everyone and thank you all for your responses and information. I have not yet been able to change the oil due to, you guessed it, this seemingly never ending medical problem(s). I am getting away right now with a shot in the knee which is helping, somewhat. We shall see. My surgeon is a good guy, a car enthusiast also but into Corvettes while my tastes are older automobiles. I am to try a one day tour on Sunday (unless it rains again) and that should tell me how my summer may go. I did find some Rotella 10-30 for the Rolls. I hope this is a good oil for the car. I can get Rotella 15-40 and perhaps that would be good for the Pierce. In the brass- era cars I have always used 10-30 in them. My other issue with the hips and now knee is that my favorite non-car hobby has been riding high wheel bikes. I have tried to get on my bike again. No luck. That, after forty five years and thousands of miles, may sadly be a thing of the past. Thank you all again for your help! Tom
  14. Thank you everyone or your advice. I shall seek out Amsoil. Since I posted this I was told to use Shell Rotella too. Anyone have experience with this oil? Thanks again!
  15. I know this has been asked before, and often opens a can of worms, and I have asked about coolant too. But, over the last three years I have been in and out of surgery, with more to come I fear, and our 1923 Rolls-Royce Twenty and 1925 Pierce-Arrow Series 80 have sat in the garage without use. Now we have some day tours coming up and since I can drive again (so far), I want them back on the road. It has been a long time since I have personally changed the oil and coolant and I am not sure now what to use. Any recommendations? In the past my restorer friend simply used 10w-30 in both of them saying it is fine. He also put in normal green coolant. Should I keep with this or change to synthetic or perhaps a different viscosity. I know I sound like a newbie but in a way I have been out of the hobby for some time and now ready to get back on the road. Of course if my surgeon today wants to replace my knee (he did both of my hips so I guess he knows what he is doing) I may lose another summer of driving. I can't even imaging bringing out one of my brass-era cars. They need oil too but trying to crank may be an issue. Fun getting old. Thank you in advance for any help and/or information you may provide. Tom.