carbking

OK - this eliminates the accelerator pump as a culprit for condition (B), and makes it less likely a suspect for condition (A). When driving at a constant speed, the accelerator pump is doing nothing. My best guess for a hesitation for condition (B) would be something intermittant in the ignition system (loose wire or pulled wire in distributor, etc.) or even water in the gasoline. How old is the fuel in your fuel tank? It would not surprise me if, when you figure out the cause of condition (B) and fix it, that condition (A) disappears as well. Jon.

Not certain I totally understand the symptoms. From the first post: (A) First issue - accelerating gently from stop, after approximately 200 feet with no change in footfeed position, there is a slight hesitation, and then almost immediate recovery. (B) Second issue? - This also happens while driving at a steady pace while going down the road. In issue (B), are you going at a steady pace then accelerating; or just driving at a constant speed with a hesitation and recovery? POSSIBLE causes of (A): (1) As Glenn mentioned, incorrect throttle body gasket (2) Ethanol fuel without modifying idle jets (3) Using vacuum gauge to set idle (99 times out of 100, it will be set too rich, creating a "rich" stumble (4) Non carburetor issue Please clarify issue (B). Specifying the tag number of the carburetor would help to determine the correct throttle body gasket. Without the tag, virtually impossible without actually disassembling the carburetor to determine actual circuitry. Something that gets a LOT of rebuilders, both novice AND professional (who aren't well versed on the 4 Jet): http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ventedgaskets.htm Jon.

Hey - I still use a rotary phone. It still works when the power goes off! Jon.

I would suggest first changing the fuel filter. If it will then stay running, buy a couple more for the glove box WITH the necessary tools to change it. If it still doesn't stay running, then look at the entire fuel delivery system, beginning at the tank. Why start at the tank? Because if the tank is full of rust/grime/varnish cleaning the carb is a waste of time, as the garbage in the tank will move forward. Hopefully, the fuel filter stopped the garbage and protected the carburetor. Jon.

And one caviat concerning the above post. I have heard all my life the old wives tale (actually, it is an old husbands tale, old wives are smarter than this ) about drilling and re-soldering main jets to tune as needed. DON'T BELIEVE IT!!! Regular solder is sufficiently soft that gasoline going through the drilled and soldered jet would erode all of the solder from the jet in one pass down the drag strip, just like the Missouri River erodes the levies that people erect to attempt to harness the river. Guess where the solder would end up? On the other hand, silver solder would be sufficiently hard, but virtually impossible to drill in an accurate fashion. If you drill too far, you must replace the jet. Jon.

If one is going to work on lots of item (eg carburetor idle tubes) requiring drilling, a set of orifice drills is very handy to have. The set that I have ranges from number 40 to number 80. Each drill has its own handle, and one can use these with one's fingers - no power drill required. They are available through suppliers of parts/tools for furnaces (when a furnace is converted from propane to natural gas the burner orifices must be enlarged). These drills are fairly expensive for the hobbyist only wishing to use them once. For the hobbyist only wishing to drill the idle tubes in one carburetor, a set of number drills from 61 to 80, and a "pin vice" will suffice. The pin vice will have a few different size collets to allow grasping the different size drills. Again, the pin vice may be rotated in one's fingers, no power drill necessary. The pin vice/number set is less convenient than the orifice set with the individual handles, but MUCH LESS expensive. And, a bit more information: for those wishing to enlarge carburetor main metering jets (larger than the idle tubes), the number set of number 1 to number 60 is useful; HOWEVER one will find there are gaps in the coverage. As an example a number 54 drill is 0.055 inch whereas the next size in the set number 53 is 0.059 inch. These gaps may be reasonable filled (although not absolutely) by ordering fractional metric drills. I have yet to see a set of these (and if one existed, is would be EXPENSIVE as there would be lots of drills) so one should first select the number 1 to 60 set, and then order individually the fractional metrics one needs. Jon.

If you are burning corn gas in Seattle: before giving up on the carb, pull the airhorn and the primary venturi cluster. Measure the diameter of the idle tubes. Drill them oversize 0.002 inch. Reassemble, readjust idle, and try an additional 2 degrees initial timing. Jon.

My records indicate the 1954 Buick Super with 2-barrel could have been: Carter type WCD identification number 2081s Stromberg type AAVB-267 identification number 7-96 Either is an excellent carburetor. The Carter may be somewhat easier to locate, but neither are scarce. Jon.

I have been asked several times in the last couple of weeks how to remove the check ball retainer (a.k.a. top hat) in the bottom of the Carter WCFB pump well. Rather than trying to fit pictures on this and other websites, I have simply done an article on my website. Here is the link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter-WCFB-check-ball-tools.htm Jon.

Looks like a reasonable candidate for rebuilding. Just remember in disassembly, patience is your friend! Jon.

I will have to defer to someone else; not really a big fan of carburetors being produced today. Maybe someone else can suggest something. Jon.

Pretty car! I realize I may be more paranoid than many, but were it mine: Oil change w/filter Transmission fluid change w/filter if it has one Third member fluid change Check wheel bearings and axle bearings REPLACE the 30 year old tires! Inspect the exhaust system! Drain, flush, and refill the radiator and change the hoses. Inspect and adjust the brakes! Replace the fan belt(s) That would be a good start. Jon.

In 1957, Ford used the Holley 2300 and the Autolite 2100 on the 292 with 2-barrel. The 1957 Autolite was a good carb, but it was a one year. Even though the 1958's look virtually identical, virtually every internal part was different. This makes parts for the 1957 Autolite EXPENSIVE! The 1958 design was used up into the mid-1960's. Since you stated you wish to keep it as close to stock as possible, why not a rebuilt Autolite (1958-up) from the parts house. Very few will be able to tell the difference, and it will get better fuel economy than the Holley. Jon.

Todd, most styles of carburetors experience the evaporation problem. V-8's worse than inlines, as there is more heat in the manifold. Interestingly (at least to me ) is the Holley end bowl carbs, with an air gap between the bowl and the manifold, seem to have less evaporation problems than other carbs. The dual AFB's on my 390 will be completely dry in an hour in the Missouri summer after running the truck. An electric pump (I run mine all the time instead of the mechanical pump) solved the hard start issue. Jon.

Call me. Tech advice is always free (there are some that might tell you that is too much ). The Carter is a better overall carb than the Zenith, however the Zenith will work quite well under certain conditions; and is MUCH less expensive. Lots of issues to discuss and questions to ask/answer. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Give some thought to gravity feed vs electric pump. Either carburetor CAN BE MODIFIED FOR EITHER BUT NOT FOR BOTH! Absolutely NO obligation. Jon.

John - I did telephone, nice people, and quite helpful. Unfortunately, their Nash bulletins skipped from 5 to 7. AACA did supply me with the address of the Nash club, and I have forwarded the question to them. Again, helpful people, they are checking. Seems like there are lots of helpful people in the old car hobby. Jon.

Greg - that presents a really large problem. The O.E. listings are on my internet site www.thecarburetorshop.com The aftermarket (or possibly O.E. but cannot prove) listings are in my computer database which is now 92,111 records (obvious not all Schebler). At this point in time, I have not the time to post all of the aftermarket listings. I have asked in the past on these forums for any that may be able to offer additions or corrections to the listings on my internet site. This is true of ALL of the listings, not just Schebler. I really have no ego about these listings. Most come from publications printed before my birth. The listings help me in the running of my business, but they are on the internet to aid car enthusiasts in knowing what was original on their vehicles. Jon.

Mark - the Dykes is a wonderful source. At one time I had a copy of every printing from the first to the last. The Schebler documentation (I have 12~15 different Schebler factory carburetor books, beginning about 1910 and going up to the end of Schebler approximately 1931) give descriptions of the various Schebler models with suggested adjustments. However, when reading the earlier Schebler manuals (up to about 1925), it is impossible to determine if a given carburetor is an original or aftermarket application. Starting about 1926 or so, the books do have O.E. lists and aftermarket lists. However, there were good lists only for the model S, T, and U carburetors, with partial lists for some of the others. What I am trying to do, is fill in the information NOT available in the Schebler manuals. In the case of Nash, there are entries in the book showing AX-76 used on the Nash 6, and AX-84 used on the Nash 4. We know the Nash 6 NEVER used a Schebler, so we know the AX-76 is aftermarket; but at present, I do not know if the AX-84 is the original used on the 4, or an aftermarket replacement for the 4; and I just plain refuse to guess! Jon

Thanks Mark, yes it did come from me. The right most column is my kit number. What I am looking for are scans from original parts books, operators manuals, etc. which contain information on the Schebler models listed. Buick used some Schebler model D carbs, but I do have information on these. Jon.

As Joe stated - evaporation. "Drain back" or "leak down" as more commonly called is a Holley issue with the type AA-1 carb; as the power (a.k.a. economiser) valve has a direct port from the valve into the intake manifold. Blow the valve, and an 1/8 inch hole drains fuel into the engine. The 4G power valve is a second passage to the primary main discharge nozzles. An electric fuel pump, properly installed with the mandatory safety wiring, will solve the issue. Otherwise, remove the air cleaner and fill the carburetor bowls through the bowl vents with a squeeze bottle (a re-purposed ketchup or mustard squeeze bottle works fine). Jon.

John - I sent them a message a couple of weeks ago, which is why I had not posted here sooner. So far, no reply. Jon.

Still looking for this information. Photocopies of originals would be fine, and I am willing to pay for the copies. Jon.

Looking to purchase either an original or a photocopy of Nash Bulletin number 6, dated 15 June 1921. According to an index found on the internet, this bulletin describes the Schebler model A carburetor used on 1921, 1922, and 1923 Nash 4. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

Which Zenith are you using? If one of the newer Zeniths, did the supplyer modify the carburetor to work with gravity feed? If not, you will get exactly the symptoms you describe. If one of the newer Zeniths with adjustable main metering jet, how many turns do you have the adjustment needle from seated. It may need more fuel. We sell the new Zeniths, and would be happy to attempt to help you adjust, whether you purchased the carb from us or someone else. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

I hope it works out for you. Will be interesting to see how the j.b.weld lasts, as the coefficient of linear expansion will be different than that of aluminum. We have had some like this repaired by having a welder good with a heli-arc machine fill the cavity with aluminum. Jon.