nailhead9

I am looking for information about 1942 Hudson VIN 2017742. Thank you in advance for all your help. nailhead9

1957 Buick Roadmaster Sale priced $17,500 Matching numbers 1957 Buick Roadmaster Rivera 4-dr hardtop, low mileage car (63,100 - believed to be actual), that is all original except for a repaint many years ago, with great upholstery. Powered by Buick’s 364 ci./ 300hp. Nailhead V8, equipped with Dynaflow automatic 2 speed transmission, power steering, power brakes, power front seat, power windows, power antenna, wide white wall tires, factory installed AC (needs charging, the only option available for the 57 Buick Roadmaster) and a Wonder Bar Radio that still works! This vehicle has always been well maintained, including new transmission seals, brakes, brake lines, wheel cylinders and rebuilt master cylinder & vacuum booster, battery, oil, lube and filter, everything that needed attention has been taken care of. You will not find many original Buicks in better shape for this price. Originally built in Arlington, Texas it lived all it's life in the desert southwest until I bought it from a man in Phoenix, AZ in 2005 and brought it to New Hampshire where it has always been garaged and never driven during bad weather or the winter months. I will honestly answer all your questions but highly recommend that you come look and check out this Buick. If you want more photos or information please email or text me, I also have the invoices for the work described in the post. Text or Call 603-499-1395 or email warrenh9@gsinet.net https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h46TqPuJjQ

lamcemb, thank you for your help, I will try to find someone who can replace the front brake lines for me. Ttotired, i just got back from my test drive and checked out the front brake drums with my laser heat gun, the passenger side was about 20 degrees warmer, but the backing plate was as much as 40 degrees warmer.

Thanks again for all your help. Beemon, I am talking about getting a rebuilt master cylinder from Kanter Auto. Item #: 01270E Master Cylinder 1957 - 1960 Buick Full Size, not a newer style unit Ttotired, i will check out the front brake drums with my laser heat gun. buick man, I will check that out, however I just had the front wheel bearings replaced.

I am interested to hear about the problems replacing 60-year-old master cylinder and power brake booster. I have also heard that brake drums that are out of round could cause this to happen. Any thoughts or comments will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to all for your help. First Born, there was no grease or brake fluid on the bands. I was the one having adjustment problems with my dad's new Pontiac, I think a lot of people were having trouble getting use to power brakes "back in the day". old-tank, I had the wheel alignment done, your advice is very much appreciated (most off-the-shelf linings are too hard a require increased effort to stop), I will check into that. JohnD1956, I agree with your " opinion, you have a problem with your garage", that is why I stopped going there.

I have a problem with my brakes, lately when I first start driving I experience no problem, but after using the brakes the car starts pulling the right when I apply the brakes. The last time the right front wheel locked up when I needed to apply hard brakes. I have replaced both flexible front brake lines, all the steel rear brake lines (I have the front steel brake lines, but the garage said they could not replace them without taking out the engine), all the wheel cylinders and have adjusted all the brakes. Should I think about replacing the master cylinder and power booster? How difficult of a job would this be? I remember when my dad bought his 1956 Pontiac (the first car we had with power brakes) if you hit the brakes hard it would send you towards the windshield, my Buick has never shown this much power. Thank you for your help, Warren https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=0h46TqPuJjQ

Thank you for your helpful suggestions. I do not have a volt meter so I have used a standard garage test light ( looks like an ice pick on one end and a wire which clips to ground on the other. On the wire end I get a bright light (with car running or not), on the other end with engine running I get a very dim, barely noticeable red light. Hope this helps with your thought process. Happy motoring, Warren

I need help with my generator problem. On the 4th of July while driving from Dunbarton, NH to Haverhill, Mass I noticed that my ammeter was charging about 10 and then it stopped (staying at zero). I have been reading up on this and have read that a bad cutout can cause this. I bought a new cutout from Lang's and installed it earlier this week but still the generator is not showing a charge on the ammeter, it shows a normal discharge when I turn my lights on. One suggestion was to "Flashing the Generator. If a generator is in good condition but fails to produce an output, it may need to be “flashed”. As I am running a High volume intake manifold and would have to remove that in order to take the generator out, is it a good idea to try flashing the generator first? Thanks for your help and Happy motoring, Warren https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGWjK6tFqnI

James, I went to Haffner's in Hudson NH, got 12 gallons of 100 octane leaded gas and did not notice any difference in performance, I don't remember if it helped my hesitation problem. Has your mixture solved that problem. At the time I paid around $8.00 a gallon for the 100 octane. Thanks, Warren

Thank you John and James, it definitely is a problem with the gas (1957 Buick's called for premium gas, which in 1957 was leaded 104 octane (unless you got Amoco lead free gas which was called "white gas", back in the day), although I do not believe that's what I'm trying to fix as it has just started doing this the last coupe of years. Warren

To everyone taking the time and helping with some very informative suggestions. For the first 9 years that I owned the Buick I never had this problem. The Rochester 4Jet has been professionally rebuilt. The problem happens while driving without changing speed and is starting to really show up when going up a grade. Hope these clues help with all your thought possess. Thank again I will keep you informed thru this post and let you know if and when I get the problem solved. being car guys you may enjoy see this short video I made yesterday while driving my 1926 Model T Coupe

Jon, I have tried switching the ignition key on/off about 400 times (battery disconnected) with no change, the car still has a hesitation. Bernie, I have been watching the amp meter (and other gauges) to see if when I have a hesitation there is any indication of electrical failure, there is not.

Thank you again Jon for taking the time to help me solve this problem, it was a very informative conversation and I will work on the ignition switch today. Bernie, thank you for your help as well. I have never noticed the the ignition key being even slightly warm when turning off the engine. There is a very soft horn sound when turning the key from on to either off or lock. Warren

padgett, thank you for the information