carbking

Actually, the "48" is somewhat larger than any of the 13 different "97" models. Both are Stromberg Model EE-1 carburetors. The "48" has a main venturi size of 1 1/32 inch. All of the different "97" carbs have main venturii of 31/32 inch. Jon.

Willis - I am not an "exhaust" guy, so will defer that question to others. As to carburetor CFM, or more importantly carbuetor selection: I don't have one of the Offenhauser (other companies may have also produced manifolds) to look at, but most for these earlier V-8's had the "square" (3 3/4 by 3 7/8 inch) footprint. So to build the unit without adapters (I truly hate adapters, they look hokey in my opinion); one needs to use the earlier (1952 ~ roughly 1956 4-barrels). As I tend to be lazy, starting with Buick carbs that are calibrated by engineers for Buick engines tends to require much less "dialing in" when placed in tandom on a Buick engine. Buick used, in alphabetic order, Carters, Rochesters, and Strombergs. Personally, I prefer the Carters, but then I have some advantages over most as I have the capability of custom machining metering rods. So for just about anyone else, I would suggest a MATCHED pair of 1952 OR 1953 OR 1954 Buick Strombergs. Run choke on both, idle on both, and solid linkage (many of the early factory dual quads used solid linkage). The actual CFM rating was not published (and I have custody of the Stromberg prints), but a "guesstimate" would be maybe 375 ~ 400 each. Remember that CFM on multiple carb units is NOT additive - (2) 400's is probably closer to 625 or 650 than it is 800. A major benefit in dual quads, especially with solid linkage, is better average A/F ratio cylinder fill density because of more uniform manifold runner lengths. And if additional performance is desired, maybe some exhaust mods and a slightly wilder camshaft would take advantage of the better carburetion. Jon.

On possible modification of the 322: The offenhauser catalog shows a dual four-barrel intake manifold available. Might (or might not, don't know) be difficult to find. If you can find one, definately would be easier to set up a set of quads than change the drive-train. And while three two-barrels are eye-candy, dual four-barrels WORK as well as eye-candy. Throw on a repro Ford (mill off the FoMoCo) air cleaner with the aluminum top (polish), and the 322 would look pretty snazzy! Jon.

The question is an easy one to answer. Simply consult a Pontiac Master Parts book (or if you are lucky, several MPB's, 30 minutes research and you are sure). From the experiences I have had with accessory parts such as this in this era, my guess would be the bracket would fit MOST (the brackets might differ for California cars) 1967 Pontiac Catalina 400 2-barrel engines, and maybe nothing else! Why they changed brackets from year to year is something I will never understand! The Master Parts Book would be the authority. Jon.

A couple of possibilities for overly rich running: (1) If the car has a vacuum tank, it is not uncommon for the vacuum control valve to fail, thus pulling fuel directly into the manifold, bypassing the carburetor completely. (2) A weak spark will not burn all of the fuel, and the engine will seem very rich. And of course the Schebler is an "automatic" carburetor that was designed for gasoline with a Reid Vapor Pressure of approximately 6.0, and btu content of 117,600/gallon; NEITHER of which are characteristics of modern "fuel". Jon.

No, but thanks for asking. Jon.

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A comment on the mixture screw setting: There is a MAXIMUM setting beyond which no further good is accomplished. Check the original manufacturer's literature for a range. On carburetors built prior to 1968, over 1 1/2 turns generally is futile, but there are a few exceptions. What happened in 1968??? Smog emission. So, the angle on many idle mixture screws was changed; as for smog emissions, it was desirable for finer tuning with the screws. Some carbs in the early 1970's still have adjustment at more than 3 turns. Contrary to what many believe, the idle mixture screws do not adjust the idle mixture! Rather, they meter the preset mixture. The mixture is preset by the diameters of the idle jet, idle air bleed, and idle air bypass. If it seems impossible to acquire sufficient mixture within the manufacturer's range on pre-1968 carburetors, remove the idle jet(s) from the carburetor and drill them oversize. Start with 0.002 inch and then in an increment of 0.001 until a good mixture is acquired OR a maximum of 0.005 inch. Making this modification on 1968 and newer carburetors being used on licensed vehicles is probably unlawful under the 1966 Amendment to the Clean Air Act. Jon.

If you are unsuccessful finding a used one; we have N.O.S. switches available. Jon.

Marbeton - don't start looking for a Stewart model 30 until you find pictures of a model 30. The bowl covers of many early carburetors were interchangeable. As the fuel valve was suspended from the bowl cover; MANY bowl covers were changed when the original fuel valve started giving problems, and the owner/mechanic had a used carb with a good fuel valve. So it is possible you have a model 30 with a model 25 bowl cover. Not at all uncommon to see Stromberg carbs with Stewart bowl covers or vice versa on Ebay (and of course, always misrepresented). Find a picture of a model 30 for comparison. Jon.

With 3 psi on the fuel valve, the distance to the FUEL LEVEL from the top of the bowl is 7/8 inches. The static (initial) setting (this one will get you close) is 23/64 from the top of the float to the top of the bowl. Jon.

Is it possible to drill plenum connecting tubes to connect the 4 plenums? Otherwise, might get interesting for tuning. And carburetor selection would also be interesting. Jon.

Gardners used mostly Schebler carbs. Schebler carbs do not like a lot of fuel pressure. Running too rich could easily be ignition issues. Jon.

If it isn't, our kits have leather pumps. Jon.

Rusty - the Rayfield was probably over-engineered for the necessary task, given the materials available then. Several adjustments, several points to wear. If you have one with zero wear, and like to adjust, it can be made to function; but never as well as a Stromberg or Zenith from the same period. On the positive side, Rayfield did offer a gorgeous wooden parts cabinet to their dealers, and they also had excellent cataloging for the day. Jon.

That would be a little harsh. Instead, let us say that there were several other makes of carburetor that were better. Although, if given a choice between a Marvel and a Rayfield, I would opt for the Marvel. Besides, with a few accessories, the Rayfield makes a beautiful lamp , well, at least the brass ones do. A chuck of walnut for the base, a piece of lamp-rod, a micro-switch, etc. Hide the micro-switch inside the throttle bore, connect it to the throttle, and then you can use the throttle arm to turn the lamp off/on. Jon.

There is a high temperature engine paint in a "cast" color. It is a tad glossy compared to iron, but unless someone leans over the fender and inspects with a glass, it is pretty close. Jon.

The zinc alloy castings would have been chromated (cold dip - greenish, goldish color). The cast iron throttle body would have been rust brown after a few weeks, as it was left natural. The steel linkage, screws, etc., would have been electroplated with zinc, either white, or white with the yellow conversion coat. Some of the Strombergs used on the high end cars (Packard, Pierce, etc.) had different finishes. Example, the EE-3 used on the Packard 12 would have the castings painted gloss black after the chromate, and the steel linkages and screws would have been electroplated with dull nickel. Jon.

"Ethanol resistant" is not ethanol proof. Neopreme was never better, but it was/is a whole lot cheaper than leather. Put a few drops of light machine oil ( 3 n 1, neetsfoot, etc.) on the leather pump before you install the pump. Jon.

X2 New engine components need to get to know each other before they will co-habitate well Jon.

Maybe someone replaced the original switch with one made by Lucas. Lucas did offer a three-position switch (off, on, flicker) Seriously, there might have been a spot of rust allowing the hot wire to "ground", which is now moved or burned up by the current. Take the switch apart, and clean it vigorous. Use a toothbrush (obviously, one you no longer use otherwise ) to clean the plastic components. Inspect the plastic components for cracks. New switches, although not inexpensive, are available; but yours probably will clean up well. If you need a new switch: Buick has used at least 4 different switches. Make sure the vendor can look up the switch by the tag number of your carburetor. As to a possible insulation issue in the wiring harness; not my field. Will leave this possibility to others. Jon.

Wheat Ridge is situated (according to Wiki) at about 5500 feet above sea level. Thus, unless the carburetor has been tuned for this altitude, should always run slightly RICH. Once the engine warms for that long, if everything were functioning normally, the engine would run RICHER; whereas, you seem to have a LEAN condition. Possible vacuum leak. Possible fuel delivery system issue. Possible weak ignition system. Old coils (like old car enthusiasts ) tend to get weaker with age. Giving the engine choke richens the mixure, allowing a weak spark to fire more of the mixture. A band-aid to help prevent stalling in the parade, would be to increase the idle speed. Jon.

Maxwell used lots of different carbs. Some they made themselves; others from (chronologic order) Holley, Kingston, Zephyr, K & D, Johnson, Eagle, and finally beginning in 1922, they started using Zenith for export and Stewart for domestic. If I owned a Maxwell that I wanted to drive, it would be a "1922 or later" regardless of the actual year of manufacture. (Opinion) of the top three carburetor brands prior to 1932, Zenith and Stewart were two of them (Stromberg the third). Just a comment on Johnson: as most of you know, many carburetors of the day used some form of device, generally a water jacket or exhaust jacket, to heat the air/fuel mixture for better atomization. One of Johnson's methods was to install a "heating plate" in the bowl above the gas, and ran an electric current to the heating plate. Jon.

Nothing you can do will turn the Johnson into a reliable carburetor However, if you are convinced a better float would help, try whittling one out of a chunk of balsa wood (from a model airplane shop or a flower shop). Reuse your old float arm, and seal both the float and arm. Model airplane fabric dope, or POR-15 is resistant to gasoline. Jon.