carbking

Probably. Remember that, by Federal law, permanent wiring for an electric fuel pump must be attached to an oil pressure switch. However, you can put a push-button override to energize the pump and fill the carb. Once the engine starts, oil pressure is present, and the pump would then be energized from this source. Jon.

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold Jon.

www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold Jon.

Mike, This link will help you identify the carburetor: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetor_ID.htm#IDStromberg Once you know the exact identification, then you can consult the factory (either car manufacturer or Stromberg) service literature for that carb. The service literature should give you the part number for the fulcrum screw, which along with the info by part number in my first post, will tell you if left or right hand thread. At 6500 ~ 8500 feet your mains should be approximately 0.002 smaller than standard. Idle can probably be adjusted with the idle mixture control screws. As to your last question, this website is not the place for me to give that answer. Jon.

Would like to add a bit to this post. As the OP mentioned, the fulcrum screw on HIS carburetor IS left-hand thread (the Stromberg part number is P-20611). HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT TRUE FOR ALL STROMBERG CARBS OF THIS TYPE! Several use a right-hand thread screw (part number P-19433). Consulting the factory service literature FOR THE SPECIFIC CARBURETOR BEING WORKED ON will often save the issues caused by some previous owner of the carb prior to the OP's ownership. What generally happens is that the individual working on the carb is not aware of the left/right issue, and just attempts to loosen the screw (over-tightening in the process). As the body is zinc alloy (pot metal, white metal, whatever you wish to call it) and the screw is steel, over-tightening the screw will strip the threads. Once the individual working on the carb figures out (or is told) about the left hand thread, the screw can be withdrawn, and the body threads come out along with the screw. For this reason, we reproduced both left and right years ago. And to the OP, glad your persistance paid off. Jon.

The carb in the picture APPEARS to be a Stromberg type B. The picture is not sufficiently clear to be 100 percent, but I believe this is correct. Wisconsin seemed to prefer Stromberg prior to 1920. In the 1920's, both Stromberg and Zenith were used in about equal applications and seemed to be the carburetors of choice, with a very few using Kingston, Rayfield, and one Tillotson. The first Schebler of which I have information used by Wisconsin was 1927. And obviously, my information of these very early engines is incomplete. Jon.

Welcome to the forums. And nice car! The original Carter information is somewhat confusing. In 1959, Carter sold to Chrysler AFB carbs number 2790s and 2791s to be used on DeSoto with two 4-barrels. In 1960, Carter sold to Chrysler AFB carb 2903s to be used on Chrysler. There is no mention in the Carter literature if these carbs were also used by DeSoto, but then Chrysler didn't always tell Carter everything they did. In Carter terminology, the "s" in the part number means "assembly". Most vendors will omit the "s" when advertising a Carter carburetor. As far as value is concerned, these carburetor setups are RARE! As far as I know, only one has been on Ebay in the last three months. Here is the ebay auction number: 191567963567 You can look at this auction to get some idea of value. Note that the auction was for USED items needing total restoration. Good luck. Jon.

You stated there is fire to the points. Is there fire to the plugs? Check this first. Suggestion: If there is fire at the plugs, change the plugs; then try a brief spray of starting fluid through the carburetor WHILE the engine is being cranked. If it starts, run long enough to get the engine to normal operating temperature and see if will start then on the fuel from the carburetor. My GUESS is that the old gas has fouled the plugs; but even so, the plugs should be wet if there is sufficient gas in the carb to run out on the floor. A second guess is that while you stated you have compression, you may have insufficient compression to pull the fuel UP into the engine. So possibly both fouled plugs and sticky valves. Repeat, both of the above are guesses. As to the flat fuel valve, there are at least two types. This article explains: www.thecarburetorshop.com/Fuel_valves.htm Jon.

Don - here is what he needs: www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_61_382.jpg It is the tension spring holding the metering rods in place. Jon.

The vendor that sold you the repair kit should have them available. Jon.

When attempting to insert a link to a reference in a post, I receive an error that my browser settings are too high to access the clipboard and a dialogue box opens, asking me to allow access to my clipboard. To date, this happens only on this forum, and only since the new software was installed. If I allow access, the link is posted AT THE BEGINNING OF MY NEW POST, and attaches itself to the first word of the post, thus changing the link. If I do not allow access another dialogue box opens telling me to copy the link into the box. Then the link is posted, but like the previous sentence, at the beginning of my post and attaching itself to the first word in the post. So far, the workaround is either: (A) copy in the link PRIOR to typing anything in the post. ( type in the complete link. Somewhat annoying, but I really do like the new software. EDIT: the unsmiley under the (A) was typed in as: left paren, capital B, right paren Jon.

It is possible that too much heat did exist when the heat riser valve was stuck closed, causing the intake manifold to crack. Pulling the manifold and magnifluxing may be the only way to prove/disprove this issue. As to the fuel leak by the ends of the throttle shafts, this is a very common problem today, especially with those who actually look at their engine. Those that do not look at their engine, and wear too much body perfume, don't realize they have the problem: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Fuelleak It should not be leaking while the engine is running. Jon.

This link might be of interest: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm The fifth paragraph describes the need for the tube coming out of the airhorn (to provide filtered air to the automatic choke). You fellows changing to an electric choke: KEEP THE HOT AIR CHOKE COMPONENTS SO YOU CAN CHANGE IT BACK WHEN YOU GET TIRED OF THE ENGINE STALLING!!! With a performance manifold (and other performance modifications) on my own car, there was no provision for a hot air choke, so I installed an electric. I ended up changing it to a manual choke because of driveability problems with the electric, and I have a manual transmission! Problem solved! Jon.

Among the factory Pontiac Shop manual, the Pontiac Service Craftsman News, and the Pontiac illustrated Master Parts Manual, you should have just about all the information you would need. Jon.

Cowboy - Carter made 128 different W-1 carbs. From memory (generally a very bad idea ) there are at least 4 different bowl cover gaskets, at least 3 different brackets, and at least 2 different throttle connector rods. Jon.

Assuming (I don't know) these are round washers and that you can find a standard steel washer of the correct thickness and inner diameter, and larger outer diameter: Make a fixture for your lathe with a boss to chuck, a "round area" about 0.003 less than the I.D. as long as needed, and a threaded end. Put how ever many washers on the fixture, tighten a nut on the end, and make a pass with the cutting tool to redo the outer diameter. Now you are ready to finish the washers. Jon.

The metering jet is the two-stage type, with 3 number 67 constant feeds, and a number 44 main orifice. (Drill sizes). The metering rod is a three-stage. Low vacuum 0.040, mid-range 0.066, and high vacuum 0.074. The metering rod adjustment gauge is T109-26. While it is possible you have the wrong main jet, or metering rod, or the metering rod is out of adjustment; MUCH MORE LIKELY on a W-1 that there is wear in the linkage connecting the throttle with the metering rod. The round hole in the bracket wears to an oval shape, a groove wears in the rod, and this causes the geometry of the metering rod to be out of synchronization with the throttle EVEN WHEN THE METERING ROD IS PERFECTLY ADJUSTED. If this condition is present, the solution is to replace the bracket and throttle connecting rod. Jon.

While Marvels are not my favorite carburetor by any description, perhaps this link will help those of you that try to make a Marvel function as a carburetor: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Marvel_rebuilding_specs.htm Please note the dimensions, especially the float setting dimensions MAY differ from those in your factory shop manual. I went through the various bulletins, and Marvel CHANGED the float settings, some as many as twice. Those listed are the latest data that I have. ALso please note that fuel characteristics are markedly different from the fuel when these specification were originally printed. The reader should regard these dimensions as a STARTING adjustment. Dimensions are in thousandths of an inch. For those of you that use the metric system 0.001 inch = 0.00254 centimeter. And yes, I know some units are not listed. I listed everything that I have. As with any data posted on my website, this data may be downloaded and/or copied. I would appreciate a credit if you do so. Jon.

With no offense meant: Many conditions are called "vapor lock"; a few actually are vapor lock. Perhaps if you described your symptoms, someone here might have suggestions. Jon.

MOST carburetors do require disassembly to remove the idle jet, HOWEVER: Before throwing rocks at the carburetor, I would suggest checking, in order: (1) If a pertronix conversion were in the distributor. If so, check by replacing with points and condensor (2) The vacuum advance unit in the distributor. (3) Vacuum leak (split hose to wiper motor, etc.). (4) Dwell (if points) (5) Timing If all of the above are good, then time to think about the carburetor. Jon.

Based on what you have posted, I would suspect the compression. With an updraft carburetor, the vacuum must be sufficient to draw the fuel UP into the cylinders. Dry plugs, but fuel in the air intake indicates the fuel is not being drawn into the cylinders. The oldest compression information I have on Buick is 1931, so might be slightly different from the 1929; factory compression pressure on the 1931 was 97 psi (from old Motors manual). EDIT: telephone interrupted this post. The anomaly is that you posted starting fluid did not help. Generally, even with low compression, the engine should fire on starting fluid if the timing and spark are good, even if the carb was removed. It may be that you have multiple issues. As to the compression, if the 97 were correct for 1929, then I would like to see a minimum of 60/cylinder if it were my vehicle. Jon

If at all possible: replace with a new North American reproduction tank. Next best option is the afore-mentioned radiator shop. Jon.

Aftermarket rotary throttle. I have yet to speak with anyone who tried one and was happy with it. Jon.

NAPA parts stores used to had an excellent fiber washer assortment. I haven't looked in several years, so don't know if current, but certainly worth a try. Jon.

It is a device to pull gasoline from the carburetor, and send it to a Southwind gasoline heater. The Carter C6D2 carb is a mid-year to late 1935 Plymouth. Jon