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About 1910Hupp

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  • Birthday 09/16/1963

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    Manawatu New Zealand

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  1. Tom I think I've worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move it to get to some parts . In the dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the front of the magneto . The spark plug wires were shorting out between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing partial ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet valve still open and the resulting pressure wave out the inlet manifold was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating tape and there is a much smoother engine and no gas vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl
  2. I agree its probably lack of cam . I do have a recast inlet Manifold on it with the complicated passages inherent in those so hope that there is not an internal obstruction there . I guess i should take the manifold off and check the passages are ok by probing them . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand still left in there -Karl
  3. Here are some photos of the correct Breeze carb off Stan Howe's website
  4. No Its not the correct one -but very close You can see in my photos that the air valve housing is different . I'd always been told that the correct carb was a Breeze H3 but your carb is definitely different to the Breeze Carb on mine and other originals I have seen . Who knows maybe Hup started with your carb and it morphed into my model with a bigger (at least looking) air valve There are no numbers on mine. I will try and get some photos for you of what I and Stan Howe (the guru of brass carbs) believe is the correct carb -Karl
  5. I agree David 100% its my pet peeve ! So many times I have been told that the original set up on my vintage vehicles is no good and needs to be upgraded . I've been told this for just about every system you could think of on a vintage car Invariably the person giving this information has a vehicle that has not been restored properly or is relying on someones opinion whose vehicle is also not restored correctly . A case in point this afternoon I took my 34 Ford to run some errands . Its winter here and today is wet and cold . I was travelling at the end of a stream of modern traffic at 30mph on a wet road . The distance between cars was about the same . A car two in front of me stopped suddenly and we all applied our brakes vigorously at about the same time . The car in front of me hit the stopped car I stopped well short of him He had modern Hydraulic ABS brakes I have completely stock standard mechanical rod brakes.. However my brakes have been rebuilt correctly with NOS parts NOS linings which are centred correctly. The Drums are perfectly round and well within tolerance for wear All the clevis are good with no slop The cross shaft is correctly positioned . The rods are the correct length. As well everything is set up correctly and well lubricated . I would love a dollar for every time I have been told that rod brakes are useless and you need hydraulics -mine aren't ! I think we are conditioned to think that we are different or perhaps superior to our ancestors . As you say David when Mr and Mrs Citizen forked out their hard earned depression cash for their new Ford in 1934 they expected it to stop and stop well . If it didn't they would be banging on the dealers door just as I would if my new Lexus didn't do what it was supposed to . I do lots of miles in my cars and shamefully admit I brought into the upgrade myth and changed (or accepted changes by previous owners ) from original in my early days of vintage car ownership. However over time I have reversed all the changes I made and with good quality NOS parts my cars perform better and are more reliable than with any of the "upgrades".
  6. No the correct Breeze H3 for the car .
  7. This is my one Had a windshield as per my avatar but given the limited running was more fun to go with the monocle windshield Probably less drag as well ! Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer-Karl
  8. Tom Nice to know some one else has the same problem . I have still fabricated a new bell crank linkage which gives me the full range of butterfly movement without the previous binding- although I have no expectation of lightening performance . I think the valve lift is the issue. as I've noticed at full throttle there is a heck of a lot of gas vapour pouring out the bottom of the carb. My theory is all the vapour the carb is producing can't get past the inlet valves and hence blows back . I missed a trick I should have made a slightly higher lift camshaft when I fabricated one to replace the broken one !
  9. Tom Sorry to hear about the Hupp I know the feeling having just had my engine out with the suspected same thing. In the end was nothing more than a loose flywheel which fooled more experienced people than me . However you are lucky that the crank wasn't damaged . The Joys of old cars --I have just spent several hours in the shed fiddling with the throttle linkage on the Breeze. I wasn't getting full butterfly opening on full gas pedal I fixed it but absolutely no change in performance and the throttle linkage became so complicated that it wouldn't revert back to idle when I let the gas off - I took the whole lot off and went back to how it was previously .. Go figure ! -Karl
  10. Interestingly I took my car for a run this afternoon despite it being in the middle of winter here . In light of this thread I opened it up and 30 mph was about it . Pondering on this I took particular note of where the throttle arm on the Breeze was at full throttle and it appears that the throttle plate is only about 2/3 open at full throttle . Further inspection revealed that there is about 4 .5 cm of movement of the throttle lever on the carb from closed to fully open throttle plate in the X plane . However fully depressed gas pedal only moves the gas pedal carb linkage open 3cm in the X plane ie with the present set up I'm never going to get fully open throttle plate in the carb. The solution is to make a shorter lever between the throttle plate and the gas pedal linkage Which I will get onto on the weekend . The 40-45 mph I have had previously was with the Holly NH set up -I wonder if the getting the throttle plate right will make a difference -I suspect so !
  11. David I would have thought 700 to 800 would be cheap for a restored Breeze . Stan Howe probably charged Phil and I over 1/2 that to restore each of our carbs a few years ago..(and I don't regret a cent of it) Karl
  12. Looking at the Breeze carb again I wonder if it would fit the original manifold it might not be much taller than the original -Hard to tell . At the end of your manifold there would have been circular fitting which had a screw in plug fitting in it . You screwed the plug in to draw heated air into the carb or removed it to increase airflow of unheated air from below (which is what most of us do as restricted and hot air intake severely reduces performance-but in the day encouraged combustion of the then poor quality gas ) -Karl
  13. Butchered inlet manifolds are common to fit whatever Carb replaced the Breeze. Yours is unusual in that you have a Breeze (albeit a slightly different model which I think is taller so modified manifold accordingly ) No replacement piece that I am aware of but Phil has patterns to cast a new one -just search manifold on this forum . I have the patterns for the exhaust manifold . My concern would be that a new manifold may not allow use of the Breeze model you have . A new manifold is obtainable (just casting expense ) The correct H3 Breeze is very (!) hard to find . Took me 4 years (Ebay ) but haven't seen one on there for 7 years -Karl
  14. I agree David rear end ratio is crucial . I'm not sure what ratio I have in mine . I suspect it is 1: 3.63 as I believe that my diff internals are Model T and that is the standard T rear end . What I need to do is jack up the rear end and in top gear turn the engine over once and count the rear wheel revolutions . I know that the Model T had an optional 1:3.10 ring gear which increased speed by about 7 mph Not sure a good idea if you want to climb any hills .
  15. I've had mine up to 40-45 mph so they can get up there -but certainly wasn't fun with the steering and lack of shocks and I could feel I was thrashing it - I found myself asking myself why am I doing this and how would I feel when I blew it up - so I backed off. Mostly the max I get up to is about 30 mph and at that speed I figure that I might get some longevity out of my engine. I drive mine frequently but only short distances so the difference in travelling at 30mph and 45mph is about 2 mins when you get there . I do hear of Model 20's achieving up to 50 mph ( Edgars , Eds and Davids off the top of my head ) and while I'm sure they do achieve this speed I don't think they represent the vast majority of Model 20's . The technical adviser for the Model 20 Bill Cuthbert once told me that in his opinion any Model 20 that gets to 30 mph is a good one and one that gets to 50mph is on a trailer ! LOL