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About 1910Hupp

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  • Birthday 09/16/1963

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    Manawatu New Zealand

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  1. My starting procedure is essentially the same . However I never use the priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl and I open the carb by about 3/4 turn until it runs then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably because Stan Howe rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and my carbs . Before fitting the correct Breeze i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold Designed for the Model T the carb was to big for the little Hup engine and I could never get a good idle but I
  2. I had a cam made for mine . Wasn't expensive including manufacture Grinding and hardening at about NZ$1000 ie about US$ 600 depending on exchange rate , Of course it would need shipping to the States from here which would probably add another $60 to the cost -Karl
  3. I once tried EP oil in the gearbox and severe slippage with this the car wouldn't drive up a slight slope I went to 30 weight gear oil and it was fine but now i just use 30 wt engine oil and have no problems Karl
  4. Tom I think I've worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move it to get to some parts . In the dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the front of the magneto . The spark plug wires were shorting out between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing partial ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet valve still open and the resulting pressure wave out the inlet manifold was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating tape and there is a much smoother engine and no gas vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl
  5. I agree its probably lack of cam . I do have a recast inlet Manifold on it with the complicated passages inherent in those so hope that there is not an internal obstruction there . I guess i should take the manifold off and check the passages are ok by probing them . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand still left in there -Karl
  6. Here are some photos of the correct Breeze carb off Stan Howe's website
  7. No Its not the correct one -but very close You can see in my photos that the air valve housing is different . I'd always been told that the correct carb was a Breeze H3 but your carb is definitely different to the Breeze Carb on mine and other originals I have seen . Who knows maybe Hup started with your carb and it morphed into my model with a bigger (at least looking) air valve There are no numbers on mine. I will try and get some photos for you of what I and Stan Howe (the guru of brass carbs) believe is the correct carb -Karl
  8. I agree David 100% its my pet peeve ! So many times I have been told that the original set up on my vintage vehicles is no good and needs to be upgraded . I've been told this for just about every system you could think of on a vintage car Invariably the person giving this information has a vehicle that has not been restored properly or is relying on someones opinion whose vehicle is also not restored correctly . A case in point this afternoon I took my 34 Ford to run some errands . Its winter here and today is wet and cold . I was travelling at the end of a stream of m
  9. No the correct Breeze H3 for the car .
  10. This is my one Had a windshield as per my avatar but given the limited running was more fun to go with the monocle windshield Probably less drag as well ! Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer-Karl
  11. Tom Nice to know some one else has the same problem . I have still fabricated a new bell crank linkage which gives me the full range of butterfly movement without the previous binding- although I have no expectation of lightening performance . I think the valve lift is the issue. as I've noticed at full throttle there is a heck of a lot of gas vapour pouring out the bottom of the carb. My theory is all the vapour the carb is producing can't get past the inlet valves and hence blows back . I missed a trick I should have made a slightly higher lift camshaft when I fabrica
  12. Tom Sorry to hear about the Hupp I know the feeling having just had my engine out with the suspected same thing. In the end was nothing more than a loose flywheel which fooled more experienced people than me . However you are lucky that the crank wasn't damaged . The Joys of old cars --I have just spent several hours in the shed fiddling with the throttle linkage on the Breeze. I wasn't getting full butterfly opening on full gas pedal I fixed it but absolutely no change in performance and the throttle linkage became so complicated that it wouldn't revert back to
  13. Interestingly I took my car for a run this afternoon despite it being in the middle of winter here . In light of this thread I opened it up and 30 mph was about it . Pondering on this I took particular note of where the throttle arm on the Breeze was at full throttle and it appears that the throttle plate is only about 2/3 open at full throttle . Further inspection revealed that there is about 4 .5 cm of movement of the throttle lever on the carb from closed to fully open throttle plate in the X plane . However fully depressed gas pedal only moves the gas pedal carb link
  14. David I would have thought 700 to 800 would be cheap for a restored Breeze . Stan Howe probably charged Phil and I over 1/2 that to restore each of our carbs a few years ago..(and I don't regret a cent of it) Karl
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