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About 1910Hupp

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  • Birthday 09/16/1963

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  1. Simon I spent several years before I found a complete unit and I suspect the complete unit is more common than the parts which would have been discarded as useless and/or unidentified over the 107 years since Breeze went out of business . You should try Stan Howe in Montana who is the guru of brass carb restorers -If anyone is able to help you it will he him. I know he has restored several Breeze carbs including mine and Phils who posts on here. Sorry I have mislaid his contact details but he should be easy to find via an internet search -All the best -Karl
  2. Phil -What did you do with the patterns for casting the inlet manifold ? Now that you have sold your car I would be really keen to make sure that we retain/purchase the patterns for others (who like you and I are mad enough to use the original set up) to use if required . As mentioned previously I have patterns for the exhaust manifold and get get casting done relatively cheaply here in New Zealand (the foundry I use casts parts for Peter Jacksons World War One replica fighter planes ) -Karl
  3. I suspect your chances of finding some is pretty low -Just get some made they are not complicated -Karl
  4. My starting procedure is essentially the same . However I never use the priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl and I open the carb by about 3/4 turn until it runs then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably because Stan Howe rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and my carbs . Before fitting the correct Breeze i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold Designed for the Model T the carb was to big for the little Hup engine and I could never get a good idle but I
  5. I had a cam made for mine . Wasn't expensive including manufacture Grinding and hardening at about NZ$1000 ie about US$ 600 depending on exchange rate , Of course it would need shipping to the States from here which would probably add another $60 to the cost -Karl
  6. I once tried EP oil in the gearbox and severe slippage with this the car wouldn't drive up a slight slope I went to 30 weight gear oil and it was fine but now i just use 30 wt engine oil and have no problems Karl
  7. Tom I think I've worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move it to get to some parts . In the dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the front of the magneto . The spark plug wires were shorting out between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing partial ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet valve still open and the resulting pressure wave out the inlet manifold was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating tape and there is a much smoother engine and no gas vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl
  8. I agree its probably lack of cam . I do have a recast inlet Manifold on it with the complicated passages inherent in those so hope that there is not an internal obstruction there . I guess i should take the manifold off and check the passages are ok by probing them . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand still left in there -Karl
  9. Here are some photos of the correct Breeze carb off Stan Howe's website
  10. No Its not the correct one -but very close You can see in my photos that the air valve housing is different . I'd always been told that the correct carb was a Breeze H3 but your carb is definitely different to the Breeze Carb on mine and other originals I have seen . Who knows maybe Hup started with your carb and it morphed into my model with a bigger (at least looking) air valve There are no numbers on mine. I will try and get some photos for you of what I and Stan Howe (the guru of brass carbs) believe is the correct carb -Karl
  11. I agree David 100% its my pet peeve ! So many times I have been told that the original set up on my vintage vehicles is no good and needs to be upgraded . I've been told this for just about every system you could think of on a vintage car Invariably the person giving this information has a vehicle that has not been restored properly or is relying on someones opinion whose vehicle is also not restored correctly . A case in point this afternoon I took my 34 Ford to run some errands . Its winter here and today is wet and cold . I was travelling at the end of a stream of m
  12. No the correct Breeze H3 for the car .
  13. This is my one Had a windshield as per my avatar but given the limited running was more fun to go with the monocle windshield Probably less drag as well ! Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer-Karl
  14. Tom Nice to know some one else has the same problem . I have still fabricated a new bell crank linkage which gives me the full range of butterfly movement without the previous binding- although I have no expectation of lightening performance . I think the valve lift is the issue. as I've noticed at full throttle there is a heck of a lot of gas vapour pouring out the bottom of the carb. My theory is all the vapour the carb is producing can't get past the inlet valves and hence blows back . I missed a trick I should have made a slightly higher lift camshaft when I fabrica
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