Jump to content

1910Hupp

Members
  • Content Count

    265
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About 1910Hupp

  • Rank
    hupdocwork
  • Birthday 09/16/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. David -I'm glad you got it -Karl
  2. There is a Model 20 engine on Ebay currently I would love to buy it but unfortunately the 12000 miles of freight for this heavy item makes it unaffordable for me However someone else on here might be interested
  3. Looks nice - Setting up the magneto is a pain -I'm always amazed at how a small change in the magneto drive as you connect everything up changes the timing so much . A tooth off makes a big difference. They always seem to move for me as I bring the camshaft gear and magneto drive together on the Hup -One day I'll make a jig to hold the drive fixed as i connect -Karl
  4. This afternoon I set up a timing light and looked at the flywheel position when fully advanced which is were I run it all the time -I'm getting about 28 to 30 degrees of advance. It doesn't kick back at this setting. I was taught at a young age how to crank a car by my father -However I see videos all the time of people with their thumb over the crank handle and pushing the crank down as the spin the engine and shudder . As an MD I've seen my fair share of wrist and thumb fractures and they can cause long term problems -
  5. Yes the segments referred to are the brass segments . Hupp has a funny way of setting the fixed timing -If you follow the instructions in the manual you actually find tdc and then continue to rotate the flywheel by about 5/8 of an inch and then you set the magneto up to fire on Number 1 Effectively the ignition is retarded when set up . I have fiddled with variable ignition and set it up as per the instructions but set the variable timing at full retarded at that point .Interestingly it runs best and starts best fully advanced so I just leave it there
  6. 1910Hupp

    Hupp 20

    Mines pinstriped black and of course non original color. Also has buttoned seats ! All incorrect and how i brought it . I have thought about changing it back to "oriiginal" but really 111 years later who ( other than us-and we're debating it ) would really know or care . Just nice to see them out there being used !
  7. Simon I spent several years before I found a complete unit and I suspect the complete unit is more common than the parts which would have been discarded as useless and/or unidentified over the 107 years since Breeze went out of business . You should try Stan Howe in Montana who is the guru of brass carb restorers -If anyone is able to help you it will he him. I know he has restored several Breeze carbs including mine and Phils who posts on here. Sorry I have mislaid his contact details but he should be easy to find via an internet search -All the best -Karl
  8. Phil -What did you do with the patterns for casting the inlet manifold ? Now that you have sold your car I would be really keen to make sure that we retain/purchase the patterns for others (who like you and I are mad enough to use the original set up) to use if required . As mentioned previously I have patterns for the exhaust manifold and get get casting done relatively cheaply here in New Zealand (the foundry I use casts parts for Peter Jacksons World War One replica fighter planes ) -Karl
  9. I suspect your chances of finding some is pretty low -Just get some made they are not complicated -Karl
  10. My starting procedure is essentially the same . However I never use the priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl and I open the carb by about 3/4 turn until it runs then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably because Stan Howe rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and my carbs . Before fitting the correct Breeze i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold Designed for the Model T the carb was to big for the little Hup engine and I could never get a good idle but I
  11. I had a cam made for mine . Wasn't expensive including manufacture Grinding and hardening at about NZ$1000 ie about US$ 600 depending on exchange rate , Of course it would need shipping to the States from here which would probably add another $60 to the cost -Karl
  12. I once tried EP oil in the gearbox and severe slippage with this the car wouldn't drive up a slight slope I went to 30 weight gear oil and it was fine but now i just use 30 wt engine oil and have no problems Karl
  13. Tom I think I've worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move it to get to some parts . In the dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the front of the magneto . The spark plug wires were shorting out between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing partial ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet valve still open and the resulting pressure wave out the inlet manifold was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating tape and there is a much smoother engine and no gas vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl
  14. I agree its probably lack of cam . I do have a recast inlet Manifold on it with the complicated passages inherent in those so hope that there is not an internal obstruction there . I guess i should take the manifold off and check the passages are ok by probing them . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand still left in there -Karl
×
×
  • Create New...