carbking

Take a really HARD look at the third line in my signature! Different carbs were produced because different engine/transmission combinations have different needs. The calibration of a carburetor takes into consideration, among other things, the engine displacement (helps to size the carburetor venturii for acceptable air velocity), the mass of the vehicle (engine load), and the engine design (oversquare, undersquare). The carburetion engineer has a clean slate to produce the correct calibration. Remember that in addition to the gasoline jets, other variable PRESSED-IN AND THEREFORE NOT CHANGABLE TO THE AVERAGE HOBBYIST are air bleeds, restrictions, bypasses, etc. If a carburetor is migrated from one application to another, the average hobbyist can change only gasoline jets. So in answer to your questions: "So can I use the other gm carbs?" - Sure, depending on how well you want the car to run. I once knew a guy that put a 750 CFM Comp Series Carter 4 barrel on a 4 cylinder Toyota. It worked. It wouldn't pull the hat off your head below 3500 RPM, but at 6k plus it ran like a scalded dog! He was a racer, and happy with the change. "Does the linkage match up?" Probably not, but if a sufficiently large hammer is used, it can be made to work. If you really want to do this, Sherline makes an excellent miniature metal lathe and milling machine at about $1200 each, both of which are exceptionally useful in the fabrication of precision carburetor calibration parts. I have been using them for years. And finally, take a look at the fourth line in my signature. Jon.

At 250 miles (depending on the completeness of the rebuilt), a rough idle (depending on the current idle RPM) may be normal. What is the RPM specification for engine idle for your engine, and at what idle RPM (measured by a known tachometer) are you running? Another member asked if the engine runs rough only at idle? It may simply be that the working components of the engine need to get to know each other before they will work well with each other. Jon.

The dashpot itself is not a problem (other than cost). The bracket is an entirely different story. Jon.

Some of them will. Watch the flange mounting pattern, and make sure you get one for Buick. With the Rochester, the 1955 and 1956 versions were much improved over the 1952-1954. Jon.

Question 1: no Question 2: http://forums.aaca.org/f120/holley-600-my-322-nailhead-391524.html Jon.

Willis - sorry, but I don't have manifold casting numbers other than multiple carburetor. For that information: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Multiplecarbmanifolds.htm The information could probably be acquired by checking with a Hollanders interchange manual. Jon.

Niels - there are absolutely no carburetors being produced today that will work as well as a professionally reconditioned original. My first choice would be: Carter 2347s or Rochester 7009200 (both original equipment in 1956) Second choice would be: Carter 2358s (late 1955), Rochester 7009100 (late 1955) or Stromberg 7-98 (1954). Any of the above would fit manifold, linkage, and air cleaner; and be calibrated for your engine. Jon.

Here is a picture of mounting gaskets for the 3 different flange sizes: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Four_barrel_mounting_gaskets.jpg The upper left gasket (a.k.a. square pattern) fits the manifold of the original poster The lower left gasket is the smaller rectangular pattern (a.k.a. Carter pattern) The upper right gasket is the larger rectanular pattern (a.k.a. Holley pattern) The lower right gasket shows both the small and large rectangular patterns The "square pattern" was used on vehicles from 1952 to about 1956 (most) and as late as 1975 by I.H.C. Carburetors which have the "square" pattern in alphabetic order: Carter WCFB (early production) Holley 2140 Holley 4000 Rochester 4-GC (early production) Stromberg 4A Adapter exist to install carbs with either rectangular pattern on the "square" pattern, HOWEVER: While not intuitively obvious from the picture, the center lines of the throttle bores were relocated to accomodate the larger throttle bores. The center lines moved apart sideways 1/4 inch. This means the adapter is necessary to not only change the bolt pattern, but also to alter the direction of the air/fuel mixture. The air/fuel mixture is not happy with going around corners, and the mixture becomes more dense at the apex of the corner, thus REDUCING the total amount of mixture from the normal rating of the carburetor. Jon.

Is there some reason you wish to not use the stock original 4-barrel that was designed, sized, and calibrated by the Ford engineers for your engine??? The above being asked, we have sold some 400 CFM Carter AFB's in the past for use on the 292 engine. Runs like a scalded dog. Depending on the year, the distributor may need to be replaced if the original carb with spark valve is not used. Also depending on the year, the intake manifold may need to be changed. The 292 was rated at 4600 RPM CFM = (RPM x CID) / 3456 for engines at 100 percent volumetric efficiency 4600 x 292 / 3456 =389 CFM Assume 85 percent volumetric efficiency then 389 times 0.85 = 331 CFM required. I have never seen factory ratings for the original carbs, but comparing them by venturi size to others which are rated yields approximately a 375~400 CFM original carburetor. Take a good look at the third line in my signature. Jon.

Willis - the Carter AFB's (first AFB 1957) had the smaller rectangular pattern, probably the e-clones do also. The manifold in the OP's first post is the 1952~1956 almost square pattern (3 3/4 inch by 3 7/8 inch). Still going to need an adapter for the older manifold pattern. Note the adapter in Joe's post 7 shows three patterns. The inner pattern fits the OP's manifold, the middle pattern (the so-called "Carter" pattern) would fit most AFB's, and the outer pattern is the so-called "Holley" pattern. Jon.

Wishbone - if your carburetor is a Packard application, the carburetor identification number will be STAMPED (not a raised number) on the top casting. Check this link for more information: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetor_ID.htm#IDStromberg The code number for Packard is 10. Again, if Packard, this link will tell you if it was an original Packard installation: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kpackard.htm If a 10 prefix, and not here, then it could be a factory service unit. As to the electrical gremlin, not my field, but maybe a stuck starter??? Jon.

Keith - if you watch NASCAR, think restrictor plate. The original manifold will only let so much through. The newer carbs have a different center line on the throttle bores than the older carbs, so the adapter has to change the direction of the A/F mixture as well as allow for the different bolt pattern. And the calibration of the original carb (Carter, Rochester, or Stromberg) would be designed by the factory engineers to be correct for the 322. I am sure many on this forum are capable of doing recalibrations, but why bother. You still have to contend with the "restrictor plate" and the change of direction. And you still possibly have linkage concerns, possibly a new fuel line, and probably a different air cleaner. Not saying the Holley is a "bad" or "poor" choice. It just doesn't seem like the best choice. Jon.

Read post number 3; but if you like Holleys, go for it. Jon.

Without researching the issue completely (in other words, memory): In 1937, Packard used a Carter WA-1 plus 3 different Chandler-Groves on the 6 In 1938, Packard used a Carter WA-1 plus 2 different additional Chandler-Groves on the 6 In 1939, Packard gave up completely on the C-G, and added a Stromberg BXOV-26 (with hot air choke) as their second vendor on the 6. Packard also released "factory service carbs" by both Carter and Stromberg to replace the Chandler-Groves. If you REALLY want an original C-G, I will sell you one, but I won't guarantee it to ever start the car, let alone run it. Stromberg made a ton of different BXOV-2 and BXOV-26 carbs (many were universal aftermarket for Chevrolet and Plymouth). Make certain that what you get is correct for the Packard. Jon.

To answer your question: The adapter would be Trans-Dapt 692064. I do not know if Trans-Dapt is still in business. Other information: You will NOT be happy using the modern square-bore on the early manifold. I don't know if a 1961 or newer intake will fit your engine; but if it will, and you HAVE to have the Holley, changing the intake is the way to go. A 1956 Buick Carter, 1956 Buick Rochester, or 1954 Buick Stromberg ALL will bolt on to your existing manifold; idle better, have better driveability, more power, and get much better fuel economy than what you have purchased running through the adapter. If you change the manifold, the Holley might produce more power, but everything else in the preceding sentence would still be true. Jon.

If you are looking for the air intake flame arrester, check out Ebay 361273055758 Jon.

The Carter AFB is probably the very easiest 4-barrel carburetor ever built to rebuild. Get a copy of the Buick shop manual, and read the section on Carter AFB's. If you still have something you don't understand, give me a call. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Rebuild it yourself. Save time, save money, and have the satisfaction of working on your car. Jon.

Just sold an item for $55. Ebay doesn't REQUIRE the seller use free shipping, but one is hassled if one doesn't, so we offer free shipping (48 states). Ebay fees were $10.50. UPS ground was $14.38 So my costs (not including the time to package, and packaging materials) was $24.88 on a $55 item. Just saying......... Jon.

The linkage on these Scheblers is pretty much unique for any Schebler. You need to post the carburetor identification number (SX-???), not an SV number to make sure everything is the same. It may turn out that someone with an exact carburetor could take good pictures of the linkage, so you can fabricate the linkage. Jon.

X2 (except I don't have the triple A card) on vintage vehicle. On my modern vehicles, a new electronic ignition module (most unreliable part on the vehicle) and the tools to change it! Jon.

Howard - I have had no success in finding any sealer that would stick AFTER the float has been in fuel. If someone else has, I would like to know about it. Not saying it cannot be done, rather that I haven't found anything that would work. Jon.

Dave - just wait until you send something from ebay through GSP, and your customer decides they don't want it, tells ebay it is not as described, and ebay deducts from your account: (A) the selling price, ( the GSP to the customer, AND © the GSP back to you! And all you get to say is: "thank you ebay"! Jon.

Because of todays shipping charges, we have been forced to discontinue shipping outside of the USA or Canada. I got tired of trying to explain the charges over which I have absolutely no control!!! When we were shipping world-wide, we would get on the shipper's website to determine our cost, and then mark up that cost 5 percent (not 50, not 500, simply 5) to pay for the cost of filling out all of the required customs information. And while I certainly appreciate the difficulty in finding parts for an ancient vehicle out of country, the insulting emails, the negative posts on automotive forums, etc., forced us to discontinue world shipping. There are companies in the US that will allow vendors to ship a customer's purchases to them; and then when a agreed on number of purchases have been accumulated, ship all of these purchases on to the customer, thereby amortizing the shipping costs. I would suggest anyone "across the pond" investigate this avenue of shipping. Jon.

I am not going to argue whether cork will absorb fuel; however: original cork floats WERE coated with orange shellac. We have many different new old stock ones in our samples, and all were originally coated. We used to make replacement floats out of cork, and we suggested the customer seal them after affixing the original arm to the new cork float. Always figured the engineers knew what they were doing. Approximately 20 years ago, we lost our source for natural cork. We tried some of the "composite" cork (made from grinding and forming with glue) but found it to be heavier than fuel. Also, it was reported above that alcohol dissolves shellac. Modern fuel without ethanol ALSO will dissolve shellac, and has since the 1970's. We have had excellent results using POR-15 (I own no stock in the company), and have many customers that report that the airplane dope used to coat the fabric wings of model airplanes also works well for a sealing material. I have tried a variety of the gas-tank sealers, all with poor results. We now use the closed-cellular polynitraphyll (probably incorrectly spelled) foam to replace cork. As it is a closed-cellular product, you would think that it would not need coating, and you (like I was a few years ago) would be wrong! First one I sent out to a good friend sank without coating. Have been suggesting coating ever since. No comment on gas tank floats, not my field, and I don't know. One other item - someone mentioned they were going to remove the shellac and recoat. I have had zero success trying to coat anything that had previously been in fuel. If you find something that works, would like to know about it. Wish there was an inexpensive way to make brass floats, but there isn't in this country; and I refuse to go off-shore. And for those who say don't coat, as I said in the first sentence, I am not going to argue. I have never tried using cork without coating, so do not know; but I can say for certain that the foam WILL absorb fuel, regardless if closed-cellular or not. The foam IS lighter than cork, thus having greater buoyancy. Jon.

Mike - here is a blog from our website: [h=1]EARLY ZINC CASTINGS[/h] <o:p></o:p> The carburetor for which you are inquiring is one of a group of auto parts (carburetors, fuel pumps, door handles, generator back plates, etc.) made from a zinc alloy (“pot metal”, “white metal”, etc.) that is chemically unstable and therefore not useable. We once submitted a sample of this metal to a metalurgist who tested it and informed us that there was about 4 times the amount of lead in this mix as in the later (about 1935) mix. This material cracks with age and heat. <o:p></o:p> Carburetors which fall into this category include: Schebler model U Johnson model H and model R Marvel (all with zinc alloy bodies 1925~1930,31) Stromberg model T and model U Tillotsons from 1923 through 1935 Zenith model 105 End of blog. There are a number of different carburetors which may be used on your Erskine. While there are many original carburetors from other vehicles which may be used successfully, acquiring a universal carb with the correct flange mounting AND ESPECIALLY the correct internal venturi size will make for the easiest installation. Jon.