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carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Bud - no offense was meant to you. If you took offense, I apologize. And as I stated in my first post, glad to see you were able to repurpose one item into something you could use. Wish there was more of that. Unfortunately, too many today are incapable of making a part they are having difficulty finding. Not only were you able to fix the unit at little cost, there is also a good feeling from doing so. Dale - I like my word choice, and would use it again. Obviously you don't understand my meaning. I explained once, I have no desire to do so again. You might take a second look at paragraph 2 in post 15. Or not, your choice. Good evening. Jon.
  2. Dale - yes, disturbing! While the EE-22 design is easy to understand, feeling really comfortable with the carb "simple to work on" might lead others down the path of broken castings. Stromberg issued factory bulletins on the fuel inlet to their service shops, and the car makers. The car makers issued service bulletins to their mechanics; but we have over the years had several HUNDRED request for EE-22 bowl (not all Buick) simply because of a failure to use two wrenches on the fuel inlet when installing/removing the fuel line. I sometimes wonder if the bulletins were used for "all-purpose" paper Jon.
  3. Being able to "re-purpose" is a valuable asset in working on older vehicles. Congratulations! However, your comment "The Stromberg carburetor is one of the more simple carburetors to work on !" is somewhat disturbing. I agree with you in principal, but be very careful with the fragility of the zinc alloy (pot metal castings). Especially the area where the fuel inlet screws into the bowl. These can break, and if they do break, the carburetor becomes a "parts carb". Patience is your friend. Jon.
  4. The Rochester Q-Jet was introduced in 1965. It probably took at least 7 nanoseconds after the first one was started to be awarded the label of quadrajunk. The early Q-Jets had several reliability issues; all of which were addressed and corrected by Rochester by the 1969 models. While generally these reliability issues can be corrected by a professional, they require machine work; and may end up putting the cost of rebuilding/restoration out of the comfort zone for many. Some of these issues are: (1) internal dashpot - correctable with machining (2) unbrella fuel valve - kit available (3) 3-thread fuel inlet nut - pulled inlet threads, generally repairable with a heli-coil, unless a self-tapping nut has been used, which generally ruins the casting. (4) pressed in well plugs - correctable with machining and replacement kit (5) plastic fast idle cam - metal replacements were/are available for many different applications Service replacement units, incorporating these changes, were made available for many applications. A couple of other possible issues: (6) aluminum throttle body often requires bushings (a trait shared by many other carburetors with aluminum throttle bodies) (7) float pin placement (changed on different applications at different times in the early 1970's, I believe all were changed by 1975, Olds being the last). Design clearance of throttle shaft to throttle body was 0.004~0.006 inch. We have found that idle issues will not be a problem with an additional wear of 0.003 inch. Clearance may be measured with a dial-indicator. If 0.009 inch is exceeded, bushing is suggested. The float pin placement is not a reliability issues, rather a performance limiting issue for racers. Just as sure as taxes, if I give a number, someone is going to chime in that they exceeded that number; but 400 horsepower is pretty much the realistic limit for the early pin placement. For those that are happy with whatever horsepower came with the engine can forget about the pin placement. Changing the pin placement is done by using a carburetor on which the new pin placement was done by Rochester. All in all, by the mid-1968 models, these were/are wonderful street carburetors, and if one uses one slightly later with the revised pin placement, wonderful race carburetors as well. Those who persist in calling them quadrajunks, either are mechanically inept, or simply "parroting". One caviat would be be sale/use of the self-tapping "repair" fuel inlet fitting. These things will ruin the main body so that a professional repair with a helicoil of the inlet threads is impossible. Jon.
  5. When I was a kid riding schools buses in the 1950's, virtually every school bus I can remember had one. I cannot remember any issues with the Southwind heaters at all. At that time, kids getting on the bus would sit as near to the front as they could, as the Southwind heater was for the driver. Probably today, some do gooder will rewrite history having lots of burned vehicles, etc., but as I mentioned earlier, no issues of which I am aware. Jon.
  6. It is an aftermarket adapter to provide fuel for a Southwind gasoline heater. Jon.
  7. I don't know what carburetor shop you called, but it wasn't us. We sell parts for virtually ALL carburetors 1974 back to 1897. Not too many 4 barrel carbs in 1897. Sorry that someone in the business was rude to you. But I can certainly identify with the working 7 days a week and not being able to keep up. Jon Hardgrove, owner, The Carburetor Shop LLC (in Missouri),
  8. We have been suggesting this patch for maybe 25 years. We have heard back from literally hundreds of customer after the patch was installed. Believe me, it DOES work! This link to our website troubleshooting section explains it better: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Fuelleak Jon.
  9. Willie - nothing of which I am aware will solve the issue. However, the return line will minimize the issue. Why? Once the engine shuts off, the inlet valve in the fuel pump closes, preventing fuel from returning to the tank. The engine heat then builds pressure in the fuel line, and dumps additional fuel into the carburetor which will also percolate or leak out beside the throttle shafts. The return line relieves the pressure back into the tank, so a few tablespoons of fuel don't get dumped into the carb to percolate. Jon.
  10. With both measurements off by almost exactly the same amount; I would suspect the micrometer, and do as you are doing ......try a known micrometer. My guess would be that you are going to find your rods are standard. While metering jets DO wear, especially the primary jets; rods seldom wear. Generally rods are replaced for one of four reasons: (1) Major mechanical modifications to the engine (2) Moving to a much different altitude (3) Replacing a broken rod because some previous "expert" tried to install the airhorn with the rods in place. (4) Replacing a rod with high wear where it contacts the piston or rubs through the housing. This can occur on really high (maybe 250,000 mile) mileage engines. You might also check for the part number stamped on each rod. It should be 16-167. To read this number, a clean rod, a good magnifying glass, and a pair of "young eyes" are quite useful. Look about midway in the length of the rod. Jon.
  11. I have posted before that I was selling this material; and quite a bit sold. I still have a LOT! I have begun to list individual items, and will be selling this way (within reason). Listing 9000 plus items individually is a monumental task when I have other things to do; so the listing will grow as time permits. Currently I have most Oakland literature listed, and Pontiac literature up through the 1937 model year. I am listing from the earliest to current. If you are interested in later material, you don't have to wait for it to be listed - call. Will be happy to discuss condition, etc. by telephone 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Will NOT discuss condition or non-listed inventory by email. VISA or MasterCard accepted with no penalty. Will also CONSIDER US gold coins (no other gold), US silver dollars (no other silver), and US stamp collections. Here is the primary link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Pontiaclibrary.htm The infrastructure for the entire library is built in to this link. When the internal links appear, that year will be listed. Jon.
  12. If possible, fixed power for an electric fuel pump should come from an oil pressure switch. If power is simply through the ignition switch, the power might still be on in case of an accident. A temporary (push button) switch is OK to prime the pump. Jon.
  13. Willie - I would concur with virtually your entire post 23 except "Any modifications to the line between the pump and carburetor is useless". One of the easy ways to add a return line to a vehicle that did not have one originally is to insert a 3 line fuel filter (readily available at most FLAPS) right at the carburetor. The carb gets first chance at the fuel because of the larger filter orifice, and the remainder of the fuel is pumped back to the tank through the return line. This allows the fuel pump to pump at close to rated capacity thus the fuel does not stay in the line long enough to cause vapor lock on the suction side of the pump. The cooler fuel delivered to the carburetor will MARGINALLY improve power and economy (10 degrees F cooler fuel is good for 1 percent improvement). Jon.
  14. Marcel - the price depends on the time spent. Generally 2 ~ 2 1/2 hours for two step rods (pair) up to maybe 4 hours (pair) for 4 step rods with a couple of tapers. Figure machine shop time per hour in your area. You probably will not be far wrong. Jon.
  15. Marcel - you might find my new thread on Carter AFB tips helpful. Jon.
  16. This thread in response to another thread asking questions about Carter AFB metering rods and jets. This thread will consider ONLY those AFB carburetors made by Carter BEFORE they were purchased by Federal Mogul (approximately 1984), and does not address the AFB clones regardless of what name (even Carter) that may be on the clone. Carter produced 505 different type AFB carburetors beginning in 1957 up until their purchase by Federal Mogul. As I have custody of the remaining Carter prints, I do have access to the original specifications for most of these carburetors. NO, I will NOT publish these specification on the internet! The reason being that access to the specifications would HURT more enthusiasts than it would help! Why??? Regardless of what you may or may not have read on other websites; THESE PARTS ARE NOT NECESSARILY INTERCHANGEABLE!!!!! Main metering jets: So far I have identified three separate and distinct physical types of jets used in the AFB. While the thread size is the same, the metering area shape in the jets is different, and they should not be interchanged among types. Step-up rods: So far I have identified 19 different profiles!!! Yes, that is not a misprint; 19 different profiles. I have identified 381 different step-up rods (but I may have missed a couple) How are profiles different? Say you have two totally different rods, each with a high vacuum step of 0.068, and a power step of 0.048. Possibly the power step on the first is 0.250 long where on the second, the power step is 0.400 long. The second rod would run exceptionally rich at mid-range if substituted for the first rod. One other comment on the rods: comparing the difference in diameter from the high vacuum step to the low vacuum step from rod to rod only proves you can subtract; it means little in comparing the rods. Example: a rod with a high vacuum step of 0.068 and a low vacuum step of 0.054 would have a difference of 0.014. Another rod with a high vacuum step of 0.060 and a low vacuum step of 0.046 would also have a difference of 0.014. What does this difference mean? Nothing! The metering comparison should be to calculate the area of the primary set and subtract the dynamic area (that portion of the step-up rod in the jet at any time) of the step-up rod AND THEN COMPARE AREA DIFFERENCES! So what rods ARE interchangeable??? Consult your original factory shop manual. The carburetor section should have a listing of rods (standard, 1 size lean, 2 sizes lean and 1 size rich assuming all of these were offered) with the original PART numbers. These will be interchangeable in your carburetor. Generally, Carter used the following calibrations: Sea level ~ 4000 feet - standard 4001 ~ 6000 feet - 1 size lean 6001 ~ 7000 feet - 2 sizes lean 7001 ~ up - generally not specified. Use the 2 size lean rod Some truck carbs were assigned 1 size rich rods if the truck were to be used for heavy duty. Another question I am often asked - May the clone rods and jets be used successfully in genuine Carter AFB carbs? Well you have a 1 in 3 probability for the jets, and a 1 in 19 probability for the rods. Its your engine! And finally, if in doubt, it is better to be too rich than too lean. Too rich wastes power and fuel. Too lean wastes engines! Jon.
  17. To quote a good friend (Tom V.) from another forum: "Engineers do things for a reason". UNLESS you have made MAJOR modifications to the engine (a slight overbore to clean up the cylinders is not a major modification), building the carb to stock calibrations is an excellent starting point. Metering rods in any size are available by mail order, but as most configurations must be custom made, they are not inexpensive. Standard jetting was used up to an altitude of 4000 feet. Above that altitude leaner rods are recommended. The use of ethanol-laced fuel MIGHT (or might not) require a slightly richer rod. The use of ethanol-laced fuel often requires a slight modification to the idle circuit. Jon.
  18. After posting the above post, I checked to see where in California Poway is located. With your location, you can probably drive the car, although not well, using the 1937 carb you have with the choke set permanently in the wide open position. Even with the choke disabled, it still is not a good carburetor. Jon.
  19. In 1937, Buick used 2 different manufacturers of carburetors: Marvel and Stromberg. BOTH COULD BE CLASSED AS EXPERIMENTAL VERSIONS! Neither worked well! Additionally, Buick insisted on the use of the Delco automatic choke. Possibly the only good thing that can be said about the Delco automatic choke is that it was discontinued after only 2 model years. In 1938, both the Marvel and the Stromberg were redesigned. The Marvel wasn't much better; however, the Stromberg would have been a good unit except Buick still insisted on the Delco choke. Again, neither carb worked well (the Stromberg would work fairly well in mild climates, as mechanics quickly learned to adjust the choke so it would go completely open, and let the customer worry about starting with only half a choke). In 1939 Buick finally gave up on both Marvel AND the Delco choke. Carter was added as the second manufacturer of carburetors. BOTH CARTER AND STROMBERG OFFERED REPLACEMENTS WHICH WERE SOLD BY BUICK DEALERS FOR THE 1937 AND 1938 MODEL YEARS! Both the Carter and 1939 Strombergs were excellent carburetors, and virtually ALL original 1937 and 1938 Marvels and Strombergs were removed from service in 1939 by owners who really wanted to drive their cars. In 2014, finding original 1937 or 1938 Marvels or Strombergs is a little more difficult than finding a needle in a hayfield, especially those for the large engined Buicks! Professional opinion AND suggestions: If you plan on driving and enjoying the car, find one of the factory replacements OR make the modification to a stock 1939 carburetor. The modification is really quite easy. As both the 1937 and 1938 were experimental designs, the throttle linkage was placed on the opposite side of the throttle shaft from other 2 barrel carburetors of the period. Because of this placement, starting the engine with a non-Buick carb or a 1939 standard carb would cause the engine to immediately race to WOT (wide open throttle). Pressing the footfeed to the floor would then allow the engine to come back to idle. Somewhat difficult to learn to drive a vehicle in this manner. So how to modify: think of a child's seesaw; when one child goes up, the child on the other end goes down. Substitute the throttle shaft for the seesaw center support and the modification is obvious. Simply fabricate a flat steel arm that will bolt to the throttle on the 1939 (or newer) Buick carb that will move the throttle link to the opposite side of the throttle shaft (on the same side of the carburetor). Measure the center to center distance from the center of the end of the throttle shaft to the center of the hole for the throttle linkage, and drill a hole in the arm you fabricated to move the linkage the same distance. On the other hand; should you have a numbers-matching showcar that needs only to run from the trailer to the showfield, or should you choose to ignore the advice given in the preceding three paragraphs.....the carb for which you are looking is available, but NOT cheap. Jon.
  20. Read the first link provided in post number 10. Jon.
  21. Don't know where you live, however: (A) 30 miles from my home in rural Missouri, there is a mall that sponsers a "cruise-in" monthly during the summer. Normally, 3000 vehicles show up. ( 60 miles from my home one of the local "arf & barf" drive-in sponsers a smaller "cruise-in" monthly during the summer. © 30 miles from my home (in a different direction), one of the vacation spots sponsers an annual car show. Suggestion: inquire locally (local auto parts store employees normally would know, or the local newspaper) if/when these types of events occur in your locality. Attend! Doesn't matter if you drive your newer transportation and park in the parking lot. Maybe there will be a vehicle like yours, talk to the owner. If nothing else, make a sign and wear it on your back: "Newby to hobby, need HELP! Have 19xx (vehicle)". Most car people are helpful, you might be surprised how many you find. Oh, and no, there is NO car club in my local town. But there are several very knowledgeable individuals. Probably same exists in your locality. Jon.
  22. Frustration can be a part of any hobby, if the hobbyist allows the frustration. I collect stamps as well as play with things mechanical. I have been missing only 3 of more than 10,000 stamps from one country now for many years. They were low production, and all known surviving issues are in other collections. I once was speaking with the major stamp dealer dealing in this country's stamps, and laughingly stated I would have to wait for one of these collectors to die before I had a chance to acquire these stamps. To which he replied that I would need to be sitting in their driveway with cash in order to negociate with the heirs!!! So I don't have those three stamps, the world will not end tomorrow. Jon.
  23. Picture of the baffle used on 1955 Cadillac 2x4. Jon.
  24. Lots of comments about brakes. I well remember my first car with disc brakes. Saw no difference from the older drum brakes for several months until we had a lot of rain and the river covered the road, as it did during heavy rains in that time period. There was approximately one half mile of level blacktop that would flood. Those native to the area knew by how far the water extended up the road the relative depth; and would slowly drive right through the water. After exiting the water, standard procedure was to stand hard on the brakes for several seconds at 30~40 MPH to dry out the drums. Glad I had my seat belt (special order then) fastened when I stood on the brakes. Right there learned a BIG difference from drum to disc! Oh, and this stretch of road has now been raised way above the high water mark. The floods were actually a social event; as the high water would send a big discharge of alkaline water off of the strip mine dumps, which would send all of the big fish ahead of the alkaline. I've seen as many as 15~20 vehicles pulled off the road a few feet from the water, and their drivers/passengers out hand fishing in the road ditches. While we now know such activity as driving through the water must be dangerous, I have no memory of any vehicle ever swept off the road. Nice truck by the way. Jon.
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