buick5563

Blasting cab, parts washer and press. Buttloads of storage.

Four post lifts and a two post lift give different working options.

I promised Mr. Earl I would post some pics and commentary on my garage. Some of you know that I work on other people's cars here. I am far from "making a living" at it, but I have had some great projects come through. I was fortunate to have bought a house in north central Austin with this garage already built. It was set up with a 12' cinder block wall "base" with a 16' Quonset hut on top of that. It was wide open when I bought it 11 years ago. Over the years, my needs have changed. My cars have changed. The garage has evolved. The previous owner was an electrical engineer who did art projects, so being wide open was good for him. Of course, an electrical engineer installed a 200 amp service with numerous outlets as well as several 220 volt "drops". My current set up uses a 220v two-post lift and a Lowes 220v 80 gallon compressor. I have two other four post lifts. One is used mostly for storing cars and the other is used when a four post lift is the better choice for working. The slab is roughly 60' deep by 40' wide. The inside is 30' wide. Outside is a covered patio where I can work, store stuff and chill by a fire pit while I grille something tasty. The first incarnation had a wall across the back which was kinda "clean side, dirty side". Let's be honest. A working garage ain't nothin' but dirty, so the wall got abbreviated to about 12' across. This gave me storage on both sides of the wall and held the sink area. It also hid a room I built which I use to store finished parts and play drums to blow off steam. Almost every inch of wall space has cabinets, shelves or benches built in. I worked with wood forever so my benches are mostly 2x4 with 3/4" plywood. Cheap to build and super sturdy. Technically, I guess they could burn which is why "real" shops use metal. The glass cabinets are surplus from a hospital. They keep some humidity and silverfish from affecting books and NOS parts. Workbenches are all made with two layers of 3/4" plywood. You can really beat the crap out of a part before the plywood cares. I will post some pics and maybe more commentary as I think of it.

I had my Special and wagon outside so we could install the aforementioned air dam under the Lacrosse. I have gotten rid of two cars this year, though.

I like the Venetian blinds!

I had to ask Smartin this same question when I worked on a 58. His method worked for me. He's a smart cat!

Thanks for your hep today, Bill

Says Old Tank. Working on a 55 convertible. Same position as Willie usually assists.

I just booked my hotel yesterday. Sending show registration tomorrow. I will be there.

Lamar, It's been so long since I have pestered people on the forum, that I just texted you. I want the Caddy/O daddio.

Willie taught me to just make sure they were the same from side to side. In other words, make sure that if the "asbestos" side is facing left (in on the passenger side) make sure it is facing left (out on the driver's side) or it confuses the car gods. Whatever you do, make sure it is the same from side to side, or your car might flip.

Not to be confused with tube socks:

I believe it may be able to be done by using 1956 mounting technology, as 56's went to tube shocks. I have ridden in two cars that were altered and I drove one. They all bounced around and felt like complete shite. The geometry wasn't right and since I love hot rods, but can't build one, I pulled the bouncy tube shocks off and replaced them with lever shocks. The owner was pleased.

Nope.

I kinda agree with Ben. It doesn't look original (in the picture on my phone)

Dan, I had this issue on the first engine I rebuilt. I kept tightening with the torque wrench and it wasn't ever clicking. I knew something was up, so I stopped and reversed the bolt. It had stretched and was about to snap. I ended up using a Grade 8 bolt of the same length. Ok, the same original length... Not the stretched "new" length.

The brake springs are different for the different sized drums. They have different formed angles to make them fit flush. Bob's Automobilia has both.

All windows are a pain to adjust. It takes time. So no, it isn't something you should be concerned with, and the reason it wasn't done before the auction is that somebody didn't care.

I came up with a really long answer and then erased it. Short version. Change your torque ball retainer with a revulcanized one from Bob's Automobilia. That will fix it. Torque balls at rest are happy.

Nope. 4 in 55. i believe Lamar is correct, at least my 2 dr sedan doesn't have trim on the upper part (around the windows). I know I stole my fair share of Century fenders from uncle Bob.

Don't know. Stole it from FB.

Bye bye originality. I'm so sick of these drum brakes. They are so dangerous. You don't even have to maintain disc brakes. The engineers would have used discs if they had known the benefits in 1955. Sorry if this offends the purists.

I was the head of the Chuys team doing that in Austin when they started. The cars were trash that I found to do it to, and most were heavily fiberglassed. Not saying it was right, but not restorable cars. I also made sure the hubcaps they put up in the hubcap room were unusable.

Light bulb is on top of the steering column under the dash. The vacuum tubing goes to the wiper button.

Gotta disagree, Autonut: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=160/mode=cat/cat160.htm