JohnO

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About JohnO

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  • Birthday 10/27/1955

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    dynaflow1960@yahoo.com

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  1. A 2 door black Roadmaster for $58,000. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/buena-park-1958-buick-roadmaster-2dr/6779266989.html
  2. For a nice looking car that is reasonably priced, I would think it would have been sold by now.
  3. I bought a new Riviera in 1983 and a used 1985 Riviera in 1990. I rekindled my interest in this generation by buying an 1982 at a Mecum auction and a 1985 from a private party in the past year. All were coupes. For the subject car, the buyer pool is small and there are a lot of examples out there. The seller should be satisfied with anything over $4,000. So list for $4,500 and drop from there. True story: There was an 85 Riviera listed on Classiccars.com for $13.5K in Texas. It had 70,000 miles, genuine spokes, and was well presented in the pictures. Well, after being listed for ages, it sold at the 2018 Los Angles Mecum auction for $2,750 which included the 10% buyers fee. So, the seller netted about $2,400 since they have to pay 5%. In addition, they had to transport it from Texas to California. Point is, they should have listed that car for $4,500, take $4,000 and they would have been way ahead.
  4. The brake pedal with disk brake embossed in the center are not reproduced. It looks like the original pedal. I've had and seen a few of these cars and the pedals don't hold up with usage over time. Usually they bow and crack. That observation along with others are an indication that it could indeed be a 20K mileage car. The pictures either show poor judgement on how to market the car or conceal flaws.
  5. You can request your own whitewall width and Diamondback tires will make it for you. On my Wildcat, I have 1 1/8 whitewalls. Also, the whitewalls are really white compared to more off the shelve tires.
  6. I have had good luck with the ebay "Buy it Now" option after I ran it through the "Auction". The bidding did not meet my reserve and I posted the "Buy it Now" price allowing for a "Best Offer". "You have to be patient as there are dishonest people who abuse the ebay bidding process and those who ask for a lot of additional information, but have no intentions of buying the car. You have to trust your instincts to rule out the latter. I have sold three $20,000 + cars that were bought sight unseen. Pictures of the areas subject to the most wear are recommended; for example, the dash, drivers seat, and door panel. Also, some pictures of the engine bay, trunk, and close-up pictures of the chrome and the sides of the car would be helpful. You don't want the pictures too close if they are picking up a lot of reflections. The pricing is up to you. It is a unique car that looks beautiful, but unfortunately there is a small pool of potential buyers. +
  7. I am in the process of replacing the rear coil springs on the 82 Riv. The control arm is supported by a floor jack and the rear shock absorber has been removed; however, when I lower the jack the coil spring will not release. It is as if I have to remove something else (such as the sway bar) or the coil spring refuses to let go. I can pull the jack out and everything would remain intact. I think it is the original coil spring. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thank you.
  8. Beautiful car! It was in the car corral at Hershey.
  9. My first collector car was a 60 Invicta with a Carter. After 21 years of service I had no issues and never touched it. Within the past 6 years I bought a 58 and a 61 with the Rochester 4GC. Due to driveability issues I swapped them for Carters - not correct for that same year, but close enough. I like Carters for their simplicity. It is a carb that is easy enough to rebuild and I was fortunate to find ones that were complete and not directly exposed to the elements.
  10. You can also check the major auctions such as Mecum, Barrett-Jackson, and Auctions America. I've registered as a bidder and attended both Mecum and Auctions America auctions. The downside to buying at an auction is you cannot test drive the car. However, you can sit inside, check the underneath, and watch the car being started and driven to the staging area at the auction. Yes, there are some bad cars, but some good ones also.
  11. JohnO

    White Walls

    I would pass as well. I did order a set from diamondback for my 55 and was pleased. The whitewalls were really white. As noted in a prior post, something in the 2.5 inch range shows well for a car in this era.
  12. I'm not sure what your plans are. In those years it is best to rebuild the starter that came with the car. I can't speak to the 55's but in 1961 Buick used three different block castings for the 401. So, even a starter that came off of one 1961 Buick with a 401 will not necessarily fit another. The same could be true for cars in the 50's, but I am not sure.
  13. I had my starter rebuilt and the problem is it keeps cranking. What I know: 1 - Even with a remote starter being used to supply voltage from the battery directly to the "S" terminal (bypassing the ignition switch) it will continue cranking when you release the switch. It is somewhat intermittent meaning that it will stop cranking on its own or keep cranking to the point where you have to disconnect the ground on the battery. It will not start cranking again once you reconnect the ground. 2 - I contacted the rebuilder. He installed a new solenoid and it does the same thing. 3 - There were no shims. 4 - It is the same starter that was rebuilt. Prior to the rebuild it always engaged smoothly. 5 - You can see on the starter gear where contact was made with the flywheel. It looks even enough and it does not clash. There was a new drive and gear installed. 6 - On the bench, the starter is fine. Possible options going forward: 1 - Remove the starter and grind the gear where the starter is making contact with the flywheel. The logic being the old starter gear and the flywheel were wearing at the same rate; however, the new gear is slightly larger causing it to bind in the flywheel. 2 - Wing it by trying some shims. I would start with a shim behind the top bolt. Conclusion: 1 - Definitely not the ignition switch. 2 - Highly unlikely that it is the solenoid as two new solenoids were installed. 3 - The problem is how the starter gear engages with the flywheel. If it was the generator it would not be so bad, but I don't like removing and installing starters. Any ideas? Thank you.
  14. You don't need another jump. The "S" terminal activates the solenoid that makes the connection to engage the starter. The other terminal is the "R" terminal which if used, bypasses the ballast resistor to provide a full 12 volts directly to the coil while the ignition is in the start position. In laymen terms the "S" is an input terminal and the "R" is an output terminal. Now, my experience is limited to two starters that I tested. In my opinion, whether the problem is with the solenoid or the inner workings of the starter, I would take it to an electrical rebuilder.