JohnO

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About JohnO

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  • Birthday 10/27/1955

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    dynaflow1960@yahoo.com

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  1. I'm trying to get the A/C going that is set up to accept 134A refrigerent. As a first step, I put refrigerant in by jumping the low pressure switch on the accumulator for the clutch to engage so the refrigerant is sucked in with leak dye; however, the clutch stopped engaging after a while and even if I hot wire it, it will not engage. I did get some refrigerant in the system and noted a few leaks, the compressor being one. So, I'm thinking about a new compressor and new accumulator. The accumulators for an 85 Riviera I see on Rock Auto, while a delco part, does not have the outlet for the pressure switch to plug into, and the outlet to the condenser is not on the bottom as mine is. Both the inlet and outlet ports are on top. 1) Do I have to by new A/C lines to accommodate the new accumulator? 2) What do I do with two wires to the low pressure switch? 3) It looks like there is a receiver/dryer between the compressor and the condenser, so can I just reuse that as I don't see any replacements out there. Thanks
  2. The brake lights stay on after the car is turned off. Also, while the car is still off, if I turn the directional signal to the left, the left rear light will go out and if I turn the directional signal to the right the right rear light will go out. The directional signals work fine when the car is running. My thoughts are a defective turn signal switch. However, I checked a number of sources and the turn signal switch (P/N 26062938) has been discontinued. The only available ones are used at @ $275 on ebay. My question is could it be anything other than the turn signal switch or is there a bypass that one could do? Thanks.
  3. Hello, I have a high decibel reading (an exhaust leak) at the back and front of my intake manifold. I did some checking and supposedly there is a plug underneath the manifold that is in the passage for exhaust. Can somebody tell me if it is more to the front or back and what side. I would like to put a dab of JB Weld over it to correct the noise. Thanks.
  4. Does anybody know of a vendor who can replace the dashpads on 1971-2 Rivieras to look like the factory originals? All to often , the fit around the vents is poor and on the concave section on the passenger side, it just does not look right. It's hard to describe, but the factory fit looks tighter, and there appears to be another section or at least stitching around the "Riviera" script. Thanks
  5. Obviously a scam. The only thing that changes is the price.
  6. I bought a new Riviera in 1983 and a used 1985 Riviera in 1990. I rekindled my interest in this generation by buying an 1982 at a Mecum auction and a 1985 from a private party in the past year. All were coupes. For the subject car, the buyer pool is small and there are a lot of examples out there. The seller should be satisfied with anything over $4,000. So list for $4,500 and drop from there. True story: There was an 85 Riviera listed on Classiccars.com for $13.5K in Texas. It had 70,000 miles, genuine spokes, and was well presented in the pictures. Well, after being listed for ages, it sold at the 2018 Los Angles Mecum auction for $2,750 which included the 10% buyers fee. So, the seller netted about $2,400 since they have to pay 5%. In addition, they had to transport it from Texas to California. Point is, they should have listed that car for $4,500, take $4,000 and they would have been way ahead.
  7. The brake pedal with disk brake embossed in the center are not reproduced. It looks like the original pedal. I've had and seen a few of these cars and the pedals don't hold up with usage over time. Usually they bow and crack. That observation along with others are an indication that it could indeed be a 20K mileage car. The pictures either show poor judgement on how to market the car or conceal flaws.
  8. You can request your own whitewall width and Diamondback tires will make it for you. On my Wildcat, I have 1 1/8 whitewalls. Also, the whitewalls are really white compared to more off the shelve tires.
  9. I have had good luck with the ebay "Buy it Now" option after I ran it through the "Auction". The bidding did not meet my reserve and I posted the "Buy it Now" price allowing for a "Best Offer". "You have to be patient as there are dishonest people who abuse the ebay bidding process and those who ask for a lot of additional information, but have no intentions of buying the car. You have to trust your instincts to rule out the latter. I have sold three $20,000 + cars that were bought sight unseen. Pictures of the areas subject to the most wear are recommended; for example, the dash, drivers seat, and door panel. Also, some pictures of the engine bay, trunk, and close-up pictures of the chrome and the sides of the car would be helpful. You don't want the pictures too close if they are picking up a lot of reflections. The pricing is up to you. It is a unique car that looks beautiful, but unfortunately there is a small pool of potential buyers. +
  10. I am in the process of replacing the rear coil springs on the 82 Riv. The control arm is supported by a floor jack and the rear shock absorber has been removed; however, when I lower the jack the coil spring will not release. It is as if I have to remove something else (such as the sway bar) or the coil spring refuses to let go. I can pull the jack out and everything would remain intact. I think it is the original coil spring. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thank you.
  11. Beautiful car! It was in the car corral at Hershey.
  12. My first collector car was a 60 Invicta with a Carter. After 21 years of service I had no issues and never touched it. Within the past 6 years I bought a 58 and a 61 with the Rochester 4GC. Due to driveability issues I swapped them for Carters - not correct for that same year, but close enough. I like Carters for their simplicity. It is a carb that is easy enough to rebuild and I was fortunate to find ones that were complete and not directly exposed to the elements.
  13. You can also check the major auctions such as Mecum, Barrett-Jackson, and Auctions America. I've registered as a bidder and attended both Mecum and Auctions America auctions. The downside to buying at an auction is you cannot test drive the car. However, you can sit inside, check the underneath, and watch the car being started and driven to the staging area at the auction. Yes, there are some bad cars, but some good ones also.
  14. I would pass as well. I did order a set from diamondback for my 55 and was pleased. The whitewalls were really white. As noted in a prior post, something in the 2.5 inch range shows well for a car in this era.