buick5563

I'll make this easy. The one on the left is the reproduction. The one on the right is one of three awful wire wheel "interpretations" that are being sold as "Skylark" wheel replacements. The one on the left is a close enough reproduction in BCA judging. Like Mr. Earl said, the carpet we get now is a close but not EXACT reproduction. Same with upholstery materials, engine paint color, valve cover and air cleaner stickers instead of stencils, Coker Classic tires, hexvalent chrome, non-nitrocellulose lacquer, incorrect heads on reproduction bolts, incorrect plating on original bolts, ground detail on metal trim parts, perfect gaps, no paint drips, powdercoating, lack of "paint daubs", polyurethane bushings, non-glass backed (metal) headlights, reproduction lenses with inaccurate markings.......

One is a reproduction, one is not. Tell me which is which:

If it is really a 2.78, ditch that. It will NEVER have pickup

In MY personal experience, slower than "normal" takeoff is an engine tuning issue, rather than a sluggish Dynaflow issue. (Again, my opinion) if you need to use low every time you take off something else is wrong. If you just took off in low a few times out of necessity (or to show off ) I doubt that is what killed it. I can't help with a transmission shop in Virginia, but check the max speed on my GPS that I use instead of my speedometer in my 55 wagon on road trips. A Dynaflow is a great transmission.

You can buy new ones starting in about 1960. Before that is "universal" / "doesn't work"

Not aimed at you Restorer, I meant somebody tearing a car apart during judging. I also was implying that sometimes a reproduction that looks good enough without a tape measure should not be deducted. I'm not talking about the crappy (non-KH) wire wheels that are now running rampant at the Nationals. The ones that look like low rider wheels.

The only difference that I know of is that the hole for the tire tube stem is a different size.A) I have never worked with a chassis judge that would know that. B ) In my opinion, that is nitpicking and you are a tool who has never restored a car.

Non-authentic yes deduction. Repop no deduction (as far as I know).

Buy this:

http://jill-reger.artistwebsites.com/collections/buick

It actually does work, Willis.Think about it. It only has to resist to less than 9 lbs. max. Realistically more like 4-9 like my electric.

Everybody is welcome in the Driven Class. Every. Body.

What sort of new shocks did you install in back?

Fixed it for ya Jake.

It took me a long time to figure that trick out on my own, Bernie. Definitely take the top off first though. It tastes funny and makes your tummy hurt if you don't.

Thanks Bill. I was looking for this to mark it sold.

+1 on HydroElectric. I have used them on numerous cars and their receptionist probably knows more about convertible tops than most car owners.

I have seen those needles before. They are good in theory.

Excellent. Thanks Al.

I have done this, but injured my back so haven't been out to the garage to take pics. I will do so ASAP dangit:)

That picture is mysterious which makes it pretty darn hot.

I need somebody to verify, but I think they are the same from 54-56 on small series 2 dr. cars.

Buy one from Bobs Automobilia. They sell revulcanized retainers. You can send them yours first to have revulcanized or they usually have one as a core. ALL torque ball replacement procedures are roughly the same from 49-60 so don't worry that you haven't seen a specific 56 post. Before anybody brings up different ORIGINAL types of torque ball retaining mechanisms, I will say I have replaced retainers from the earliest to latest Dynaflow torque tubes and with some minor differences in removal procedure , not one has leaked.

For once I can say... "It's on the wrong side of the pond for me". I like it. It's funky.

Newer Craftsman versions work. Pull the rubber porcelain protector out.