buick5563

With an admitted lack of knowledge of 1950 correctness, I personally believe that any whitewall larger than 2 1/2" on a postwar car looks too wide.

Nobody listens to that guy.

Yep. That's all you need IF it's the same as 55. Basically, there are 4 holes in the frame that those bolts go through and then the two semicircular halves get bolted together. I will expound on it when you get them (I can take some pics), but please make sure a 56 guy jumps in and verifies my alternative (year) facts.

Those look the same as 1955. I don't have pics of a 56. PS and Manual mounts are the same in 55.

Cool. I guess that is new. I would still not use brake fluid due to its ability to peel paint.

^^^

Great car Ted!

I think that 38 bug may be scratched soon.

I used ATF because I rebuilt the entire system and HydroElectric (a great company to deal with), insisted on ATF or it would void the warranty. I am guessing if it won't go up that the motor itself needs to be replaced. Just a guess. They are readily available for minimal cash as are the cylinders and hoses. Try filling first. It may work. http://hydroe.com/

I use the Mr. Gasket versions all the time. The Carter is good too, but noisy. Don't buy an Airtex.

...AND there will not be a "sock" in the gas tank on the pickup tube. That is by design, and unless you have a giant piece of crud in there either through bad gas or vandalism, the car will pass it through to the filter. Your English is perfectly fine Daniel.

You ought to sell em to that guy for having such sharp eyes.

I have a bunch of trays that I didn't reinstall on my engines if you want one. No, I'm not really mailing one.... There is no reason to add it. Like Willie said, they came on the early 55's (that I know of), which had the center oil fill tube and no valve cover breathers.

Also, I believe the manual says 12 clicks or something like that. I have found that 8 is the magic number for me.

Apparently not.

To answer Kosage's question, there might be parts that interchange, but the radio itself will not. 54-55 will swap with just a knob change.

Fwiw, I cut out one coil in front and ordered 2" lowered springs in the back on my 55 wagon. If you already have lowered springs, I bet your tire hits the fender during hard turns if you keep the lowered springs, as well as the dropped spindles.

From Rockauto. Com GATES 7555 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} High Capacity V-Belt (Standard); 13/32" x 56-1/8" Power Steering

I have cut the stripped portion of that nipple before and made it work. I think it is a 1/8" ID tube. Flare the end AFTER you have the female nut on the tube. You can get the female end at a good auto parts store.

Like this one. I like Speedway. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Electric-Power-Window-Kit,112892.html?sku=91123332&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KEQiA88TFBRDYrOPKuvfY2pIBEiQA97Z8MW2F_vWuB3Mzd7LipDi1OhPQWTCpwJX97qt9RKW3IokaAmz-8P8HAQ

Practice.

If you lower the car, it can get really close to rubbing the front fender. Like on a 55 wagon

The stuff I got from Cars was really close to what was in my Special. I believe convertibles and Roadmasters got a thicker, textured brown fabric. I glued mine to some cheap pep boys carpet first and then to the floor so it was a bit more thick. edit: I just reread Bhigdog's post and realized I am saying the same thing. I'm gonna keep this here anyway, cuz it makes me feel smart.

I have a pulley set in the garage. I can check it tomorrow.

Nope. Gotta order something like this and sew and install it yourself. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/cart/trunk-material-1946-56-buick-p-5581.html