buick5563

If you cut the ring off, you can fit later wheels on earlier Buicks with the larger hubs.

Last time I tried to get rid of gas at the hazardous waste site, I was turned away. Can't remember why. They took everything else. It was maybe five gallons. I don't remember specifically what I did with it, but Wooly and I may have had similar conversations.

I love the silk screen. I am totally fine with powder coat, especially on parts that will be handled at all. I saw a wagon at one of the Nationals (I think Boston) that had silkscreened instructions. I thought that was the greatest thing since sliced bread. I thought to myself that if they went to that much trouble on that, the car would not give up any other points. I was right.

Pretty dang nice.

Has Jan been nominated before?

The same, only now a buncha yayhoos from across the globe can chime in, so you can't just mutter to yourself anymore.

From a convertible.

This isn't a hardtop, but I would imagine it is similar. I don't have any pics that are more specific.

That appears to have everything you wil need.

I use these from the top side to remove those bolts. They are really hard to get to from below the car.

Springs definitely can sag after 60 years. I have used these guys several times. Their product is good and accurate, as well as being relatively inexpensive. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ In my opinion, you may want to order them slightly lower if you like the way your cars sits now (with the sag). The car will be higher with new springs. I would just buy any quality shock absorber. You are fortunate that 1956 had tube shocks already and you don't have to get lever action shocks rebuilt. I'm not saying anything about the ride difference, merely that replacement tube shocks are cheaper than a rebuild situation. Lastly, I would buy from Bobs Automobilia for the rear end parts. The last rear seals I bought from Cars weren't right.

The seal is definitely compromised at the front of the torque tube. Buy a "front torque tube seal" from Bob's or Cars when you buy your other parts. I would definitely change the inner and outer axle seals as well as lubing your axle bearings. If the rear end was not noisy, that is the only service I would recommend.

Bummer dude. Get back to the 55.

I have done all of the lines on a 55 with the body on. The only one that is nearly impossible is the front brake line to the passengers side. (Not sure if I did that one with the engine in). All of the brake lines at the junction block should be done with the engine out. The long fuel line from the tank to the junctions n block is really difficult, and I have the advantage of a two post lift. How I initially came across Inline was I ordered fuel lines from CARs and it came in an Inline box. Decided to cut out th middle man next time.

Roy, I have used Inline Tube on numerous occasions and have always been happy with fit and quality.

Correct. Hole is not a concern.

Daniel, you need to stay away from white doorways and golden retrievers until YOU are cleaned up

55's have that also.

You can't spell patina without paint.

Not neglect or anything else. It's just old and needs to be rebuilt and sent off to be rebuilt.

Oh, and I wouldn't call it gouging customers. It's only gouging when it isn't fair. Custom cars cost a lot, and you pay accordingly.

Reason for appraisal: "Baby boomer interest" Classic.

I've seen worse. It can be made better, though. Though even with a body manual, it is mostly trial and error.

Just don't let that diaper hit any exhaust pipe.

Something is definitely wrong in that last picture.