buick5563

Illustrated thusly: Fitty bucks...plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261819266025?ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-198453-24755-9%2F16%3Fmpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252Flike%252F261819266025%26itemid%3D261819266025%26tag2%3D1%26tag3%3D33%26tag4%3D6040219618777%26tag5%3D1%26srcrot%3D711-198453-24755-9%26rvr_id%3D1101925181828

I did some work on a 48 Pontiac Hearse for a funeral director recently. He shared a lot of knowledge about the hearse / ambulance combo. He said that if there were two ambulances in a small town, the second to arrive would often block the rear door so the first ambulance couldn't load a patient, thus giving up the job. They also began making dual side loading doors for similar reasons. It was a fascinating two hour discussion that we had. I am not nor ever will be a fan of death, but he helped to demystify some things for me. This was actually necessary before I worked on this car. I got the bad kind of goosebumps when it came into my shop. He still uses this 1948 for veteran funerals, both WWII and homeless vets who would otherwise not be buried with dignity. One last thing to consider... I have a fully equipped shop with lifts available to me which has made me really disdain crawling around under cars with a creeper. This nearly 22 foot beast would not fit on my four post, and was too wide to fit on my two post lift. Replacing the front motor mount was not fun for me.

I took a few pics at the Fall Regional with my wagon, Willie's Century and Jerry C's (Alamo chapter pres.) 3 spd. Special. I especially like the night shot in the parking lot.

I buy the copper 13/16 washers at Oreillys. Maybe they are 11/16". I dunno. Take a drain plug. I buy em every time I am in there for all of the cars I worked.

The interior looks great, Ben.

That is weird. I have two unmatched driver's side covers as well. Great shape, too. i may need to get em on eBay so Lamar doesn't over saturate the market with pairs.

You can't remove the hard line from the temperature sending unit. You must remove the bulb from the rear of the driver's side head. CAREFULLY! I think the oil sending tube just unthreads with a 5/16" wrench.

I would have recommended the front passenger head, but the bulb won't reach. I've tried.

Lube the pedal/ transmission linkage that attaches at the top/ back of the engine. (Counterintuitive, I know) That will stop it. It has nothing to do with the gas pedal itself.

I hope Tinindian was joking about the wrinkles. That looks like what I would expect at that price. I'm not ragging on it either, Brandon. Living in in my gated community I expect certain wines to taste certain ways. You CAN find a good bottle of wine for $15, it just may not be as good as the $75 bottle, but is still satisfying.

I'm not in a gated community either, but I get buickman's point. I had just the seats recovered in my wagon in an inauthentic pattern and vinyl for $2,400. Carpet, I installed for around $400 shipped. Figure another $500-ish for headliner and $500 for ok door panels and you are closer to $4k. My 55 Special was in the $5k range with authentic materials.

Nope. You have to send the whole unit to be rebuilt. It isn't a wire, it is a pressurized tube.

On mid 50's cars, I have noticed that the emergency brake is a medium dark grey. I used the "dark grey" industrial Rustoleum on my restored cars and it seemed to match well.

I was randomly searching eBay today and the first thing that popped up in the "stuff you may find interesting" was Fin's Skylark. Good looking auction, Norm.

I thought the same thing, so I took an industrial sewing class. I immediately realized that it would take me ten years to be able to sew well enough for me to be happy. $7k sounds high, but the original materials alone for my convertible cost $4k.

Marked A, B10 and C All exactly the same profile. Some are longer. My tri-shield key is out in the garage or I would show that one, as well. That key (that you have pictured AND want to purchase) WILL work.

Not 100% sure, but when I did my 63 Wildcat it had the same exact stainless trim (and weatherstrip) as an Impala. You could possibly expand your search to GM B body cars.

I have one of those for my 55 wagon. I didn't ask beforehand. It just worked .

The spacers I have seen add up to the same height as a single pulley spacer.

I have used several different brands, all of which came from local sources (not fancy). They all came with adapters, which I believe I didn't have to use, because the smallest one fit. If I had to guess I would say 3/8" NPT (pipe thread).

Wooly, I wouldn't personally mess with two gauges. The mechanical gauge screws in to the original sending unit hole, but you need to add a washer between the top of the bulb and the bottom of the threads. A split lock washer that is smaller than the threaded portion will work. The reason you have to do this is that it doesn't seal because of the threads, it seals because of the flared portion of the bulb. Does that make sense? This will give you a good idea of how your car behaves. I had one temporarily installed and realized it was running exactly where I wanted to see the temps. Usually 180 driving and 210 maxed out when in traffic.

At 10:30 on a Saturday after hanging with Ben, Bill, Willie, Pete, Willis you need to check Drunkepedia.

No.

I am going to respond for Lamar. The bargain I spoke of was the books. Those pulleys are not gonna come to you for a portion of $75. Sorry Mr. Chavis

Rear main seals CAN leak a bit. A coin sized leak (pick your coin) is ok. A dollar bill size is less than ideal. A basketball size leak should definitely be addressed. I bet your fuel pump is just a little loose, OR the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking. Yes, you can reuse the cork, it just smooshes more flat and doesn't seal leaks as well as a fresh cork gasket.