Mark Gregush

My car is stored outside under a tarp, but even so I have long ago got into the habit of shutting off the fuel and running the bowl dry, more often than not. Got in the habit with my Model T, so was easy to do the same with the Dodge, both having shut off valves under the hood. How I solved my crud in the fuel line/tank issue.

You only need about 1LB of pressure, maybe 1.5, otherwise you can flood the carb. Really, the float and valve in the bowl were not made for even 1-1.5 LBS but I don't think most regulators can go much lower than that. With an electric fuel pump, they never shut off so even when the bowl is full, they are still pushing fuel at their rated pressure to the regulator or full pressure against the shut off valve is regulator is not installed.

Dumb question maybe, because I can't see one, you do have a gasket installed between the carb neck and block?

Are you advancing the spark lever to the top after you start the car?

Or you can 2ed, 3rd etc the correct answer, there by confirming that all are in agreement that it is what it is.

You might try doing a search for 1941 Ford 4 cylinder truck engine. You should be able to find some samples of it. Here is one to start you off: History - 1941 Ford Four-Banger? | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

Off topic but I have one for the Model T I had, and my current Dodge Brothers has one on the front floor board. Cool things to have.

A 1924 would have used a vacuum fuel pump unless it has been fitted with an electric pump. Most all Stewarts operated the same, so might do a search of Stewart vacuum pump and start there. 1914 to about 1927, the carburetors were about the same. Read some of the post here that have been talking about them in the last month or so. More than likely (maybe that would be 100% likely), the fuel system will need to be cleaned with any old gas removed. 1924 would be 12 volt, positive ground.

It all depends on how well your radiator cools or doesn't, if you leave it on or take it off. The Band-Aid answer that is often given is, it didn't come with one so is not needed, DOES NOT fit every case. New radiators are not a giveaway item so not everyone can afford one.

Check and clean your points as needed. Any grease/oil, dirt or corrosion on the contacts will not allow them to close the circuit.

Think you might want to post on the Buick section down below. Good chance that you will get more eyes on your question. I checked my interchange book, but it starts at 1930. What plugs are in it now and how did it run?

Any paperwork you can get from the estate showing they have the right to sell the car, which can include the death certificate of the person the estate is being sold for, can go a long way in establishing their right to sell and will help you get title for it. (Bill of sale is nice, but may only be part of the whole process) Much of the information of what is needed for your state should be on line. Also expect to make several trips to your DMV, maybe not, but more than likely. Keep copies of everything you take in or mail in. Original documents will be required so once they have them, they may not give them back. Don't volunteer any information that not asked for, but do give any that is. Keep a good attitude and smile a lot. Best bit if advice was given above, do not sink any money into it till you have that piece of paper from your state saying it is yours. Way too many people sink huge amounts of money into a project and don't even really own the car and run into major issues then getting a title. Best of luck from have been there and came out good at the end. (No, I didn't invest any money in the car beyond buying till I had gotten the title because I knew it would only be a chance I could)

Myers and ROMAR sell the coupling new. Both of them also have used parts like the distributor, along with checking eBay and putting a wanted ad here and on the Dodge Brothers Facebook pages.

As I recall, the power takeoffs that I have been around are 6 bolt mount.

Most all early American cars were righthand drive, even a few into the teens.

Another site I am on carries a LOT of dead wood, people that maybe have only posted once, if even that, and never come back. Some of them have been on for YEARS and YEARS! While it makes the numbers look good, seems to me it would clear up a lot of space on the servers if they were removed. Thanks for the work you do on this site.

Have found stuff in the dumpsters after our big swap meet that I sold later or put to use, sometimes it all in the marketing.

Don't need another one, but you might want to add the price.

If the float needle valve is not seated/sealing correctly, you can get the same results, re flooding.

Could be the check valve ball(s) are stuck open or missing in the dashpot piston, allowing too much fuel in. They are in passage "I" in the above diagram. Or could be needle on the metering pin "W" is broken or too short. Could be the float has a hole in it and is sinking or the float needle valve is bad and not sealing. Or could be a combination of many things. Hard to put a finger on it with you there and us here and no eyes from us on the situation.

Whenever you do a search on eBay, type "-fits" after you type in what you are looking for. That takes all those "will fit" out of the search. That is a negative sign before the word fits. You can build saved searches and remove a lot of the sellers that don't ever seem to have parts for your car, but even with that, gets a bit tiresome to keep adding new ones that pop up all the time.

Problem with searching now on eBay for parts for example, once they started having sellers use item specifics, the sellers build one and use the same one for every listing they make. Should be just for the item they are selling, but now include every make and model of any part they might sell. Now if you look for a part, if your car is in the seller set specifics, their listing(s) gets pull up. It sucks !

Guess you can now say you come from "old" money like the Vanderbilt's, Rockefeller's and Morgan's!

The guides are a press fit, pushed in and out from the top. How to do it is in the "Mechanics' Instruction Manual", but the valve would either need to be cut back flush with top of the guide or removed. With all the pounding you have been doing to remove the old valve, the guide may have moved. The top of the valve guide should be 1-7/16 inch below the top of the block, this is important, per the instructions in the MIM. To get the old guide out, it needs to be moved down within 1/4 inch of the lifter, scored around the upper edge with a chisel then broken off with a brass drift. Then pressed down the rest of the way. Need to be careful so as not to crack the block. With the valve cut/ground back top and bottom, there may be room to come down without having to breaking it by removing the lifter assembly. I don't know, have not tried. With all the grinding and cutting that have been done, you will need to give it a good clean up to remove all the metal bits.

Tap it up from the bottom, tap it down from the top, use plenty of penetrating oil then let it soak (not WD-40), tap it down from the top, tap it up from the bottom, rinse and repeat. Tap don't hammer and use a brass punch if you can.