Mark Gregush

Edit your title and show year and location. There are a number of posters from Australia but might not open this post with this title. With the Holden body, the post might have been custom made to fit their car, so don't know if the Dodge ones would fit. I have one post but for a 1920 US body, if that would help, I can post some photos and general information. As far as side curtains, might do as several Model T guys I know, make custom ones. They wanted better driving visibility so went with larger windows.

Model T Ford Forum: Bosch Distributor Installation (mtfca.com) The above is one way to do it. Because there were a number of different Bosch clip on distributors, we need to know which one you have to help with setup.

Best bet would be to do an online search and see if someone local has it, because shipping would be expensive. This is what I got doing a quick search. car window channel - Google Search

After doing some research in the MPL, I now think it is a ratio situation. Around April 26, 1922, Dodge went to semi floating rear axle for the Sedans. They have a different bevel/crown gear parts number shown in the MPL. The MPL does not show ratios for the bevel/crown gear, just parts numbers. The repair book does show the ratios, but no year or parts numbers. Making a guess I am inclined to believe that the sedan may have used the 4.545 to 1 while rest of cars got the 4.166 to 1 so would have needed a different speedometer, guessing that would have been the 113H. I am going to go with all cars up to July 9, 1923/929894/116 wheelbase, rolling on 32X4 inch tires.

Both the 113 and 115 are marked on their face with the model number and both are black face, at least the ones I have seen. They both have the pullout peg for trip reset, not the wheel. Have seen samples with trip reset cog wheels fully enclosed others with them exposed.

Thanks for posting that info. I did look at it in the Master Parts List. It shows both those number on the same item line but does not differentiate between the two in the following 3 parts number. Both speedometers' model numbers being for MPH with square drive in this case. Final rearend ratio and tire size could be the difference, but that information is not given. More than likely, it will be off, but I am use to that, every car I have, have to do that! LOL Wonder if it is just physical differences, not application differences? Looking at a 113H, but the thread for the coupling nut is boogered up. Have to decide if I want to spend the money on it (price is not bad) and try to restore the thread or keep looking. I have the speedometer cable housing so would just need the inner cable. Other option would be to change the drives in the transmission I am going through and keep the NE that is now installed but not hooked up. I would need to find the cable parts only then to hook up. As long as the indicated speed is in the ballpark, I would be happy.

What is, if any, the difference between the Johns Manville Model 113H and the 115H speedometers? They are both left rotation.

You might also try post on the 2 Dodge Brothers Facebook pages. https://www.facebook.com/groups/DodgeBrothersMotorCars/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/ Good luck with your search.

1935 Dodge Brother pickup for us that did not know what a KC was. (had to look it up)

Made from one of the many kits offered for sale in the era. Try asking here, someone might know. MTFCA Forum - Index page Another place to ask: https://www.facebook.com/groups/modeltspeedster/ The Dodge in above picture could still be called a speedster, a term that covers a lot of different styles.

Most racetracks in the USA were dirt at that time, some still are. It is a speedster so would have been running more than likely on a dirt track.

Model T fenders so think 41 Su8 might be on the right track, dirt that is! Get it dirt track. LOL

My question would be, is that 1/4" hardware cloth going to allow enough flex to the seat, or will it be like sitting on a board?

You put an ad here or HCCA or Hemmings or club publication that deal with the make of car you need the part for. You go to swap meets and with eagle eyes hope to find it.

Looking good! The link that follows shows some information about installing the upholstery: Installation Videos (classtiqueupholstery.com)

as a reminder. STOP AND READTechnical questions require you provide a complete topic title and a full description including (when applicable) year, make, model, and technical issue. Photos are highly recommended. Topics that do not follow the forum rules will be deleted without question.

I also posted this on the Facebook page. Thank you very much for post this information! The OF used on the Ford Model T is pretty much the same carburetor so the important bits are the parts illustrations. Yes I have one which except for the fuel inlet needle seat and one passage plug where it fits to the block it has been pulled apart and passages more or less cleaned. Need to make a new throttle butterfly shaft and find at least the choke part, the rest I can make up. So, the part that mounts to the body would be P-8712 shown in above parts list is what I would like to find. Thanks

Looking for the elbow(s?) that holds the choke and is mounted to main body of a made for Dodge Brothers Stromberg OD-1 carb. The mounting holes would be approximately 1-7/8" center to center apart. I was hoping the part from my OS-1 would fit but mounting holes are too wide. While there are 4 holes showing, the mount only uses 2. Thanks parts catalog below show needed part.

That is, except maybe the Russia part, my take on that site. I couldn't even find a way to contact the seller about something I found years ago on that site.

Link to Gary's post on the MTFCA forum: Help to ID these sill plates - MTFCA Forum

You might try asking over on The Ford Model T Club of America site. Did a quick search on line looking at the Ford script over the years, these just seem off. The "F" looks like what was used later in T production. From the size, could be Model K. (?)

Think I might have covered that in my last post.

Ok got some more information on the AA starting crank, this is not one. There were two different size lug sockets used between 1928 and 1929 on the AA trucks. The AA wire wheels used one size in 1928. When the early style disk wheels were first supplied (maybe later 1928 into 1929) an acorn type nut was used, that socket was a different size. The above chart covers the car type starting crank not the AA truck styles, so there were more than 7 styes used on Ford car/truck products. When Ford went to the Budd disk type wheels with open ended larger lug nuts, the attached socket was removed. The size and shape of the starting crank is the same as cars otherwise. The later wire (Lincoln style) wheels used on the truck/commercial chassis (like ambulance bodies built on truck chassis) may have had a special to those wheels lug nut combination staring crank or could have been like the Budd style, used two different tools, don't know about that. Take away, this is not a Model A or AA crank.

The AA truck crank did not have the socket for the lug nut on it, it was just the crank. RE the diameter, would need to do some checking on that.

While maybe the early cars might have had flat glass lenses, laws changed around 1920/21 requiring headlights that were aimed thus the fluted lenses. More than likely cars that were still on the road would have gotten the newer style lens or replaced with them when got broke.