pgb123

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About pgb123

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  • Birthday 02/27/1954

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  1. I am inquiring if there is a one cylinder car club? I tried to google it, but can not find any more information. Is it part of the AACA? I am trying to do some research on an engine. Thanks
  2. Ok Y'all, First off is that I may not be the brightest light bulb in the 6 pack, but I would like to share with you what I learned over the last two days. I had to use a mirror to find the allen head hex screw that holds on the light switch. I am a hands on person and I got a lead from Ebay.com on a light switch that was flipped over to show the allen head hex screw. ( I try to use everything available when searching for information and ebay is one of them.) I was able to remove the light handle. Next, was the nut that hold everything together. I reread Matt's email and bought a 1/4 inch pipe 6 inches long and hand ground it with a file to fit the nut. I had to try a few times to grind to the correct width and finally got the two tits to fit in the slots. It worked, but first I sprayed it down with penetrating oil. Thank you Matt of the pipe to make into a spanner wrench. And, just to let everyone know if it comes off hard, the threads are not left hand threads!
  3. Thank you for everyone's help and support- Paul
  4. I found more of the instrument light switch and not the head light light switch. Thank you. So, now please let me entertain you with my light switch problem. There is not power coming from the switch. I read up on the thermal circuit breaker (vibrating set of points) in the switch from the shop manual. There is no vibration heard or felt in the light switch. I went to drive it and the parking lights came on and not the head light. I closed the switch and pulled to the parking lights and the lights came on for a second and quit. I did this with the engine not running so I heard nor felt any vibration. Second symptom is that the detentes in the switch are not a prominent feeling as the switch is pulled into its different positions. I have checked the parking, dome, tail, license plate, and directional lights to see if any were burned out and none were. The head lights show no blackening in the lens indicating a blown head lamp. I feel that the switch may burned out or some mechanical part in the switch is worn out after all of these years. How do I remove the switch handle or do I take apart more of the dash to get to it? Is a special tool needed as in the instrument lights? Thanks for your help-Paul
  5. I am in need of a new light switch. The thermal vibrator does not work any more and I am not getting any current through the switch. The two major parts suppliers do not have the a reproduction switch. The off make reproduction ones are not designed to incorporate the instrument panel light switch. Ebay has nothing and have tried several places. Any suggestions on how to adapt a new reproduction one to incorporate the instrument panel light switch, or where I may purchase new old stock, or whatever. Thanks Paul
  6. I have a 1929 studebaker president model fe with dual ignition. polarity is positive terminal to ground chassis. Wire from ignition switch to driver side coil is attached to the negative post due to positive to ground system. Jumper wire from driver side coil to passenger side coil is attached to the negative post. (power into coils) Turn over engine with ignition on and only high tension spark is on the passenger side coil. Took simple test light to make sure that there is a flow of electricity to negative coil posts. Positive side of each coil goes to the distributor. Positive side for one coil will have power once points are open. Distributor cam closes point and opens second set of points. Spark on both sets of points and condensor. Tried new coil, check wires for bad connections and resistance. Everything ok. Need help diagnosing problem. Thanks all
  7. Thank you for the feedback as you have answered a couple of my questions about the product. I do plan to call them- Paul
  8. I am looking for feedback if anyone has used ceramic coating for exhaust manifold. The manifold I own thin walled and pitted. I have seen a few ads in Hemmings Motor News and am seeking pro and con on this process. Thanks
  9. Go to the Gardiner web site and look under technical information. You should find tune up information there. I posted an inquiry about the Gardner cars on the AACA general forum about a 1924 Gardner tour delux I found in NH. The biggest problem with these cars are the oil pump which is made of pot metal and is pushed into the engine block. It is a pressed fit and will break, so do not mess with it if it is in good shape. I found a service manual for a Auburn 4-44 that gave much needed information to tune up and service this car. Bob Gardner put it on the website. Apparently, the lycoming engines were used in high end cars. Parts are another issue, so time will tell. Do not hesistate to contact Bob or my self. Paul
  10. I have a 1929 Studebaker President with a serious crack in the exhaust manifold. It was brazed several years ago,but the crack expanded. A couple of contacts have suggested a business that bakes the manifold and then welds it. The manifold is thin walled in some areas. Is there a recommendation for any one who can do the job.? Thanks for the help Paul
  11. Do you have a rotor cap WW18 for the westinghouse distributor and do you have a cap as well? Do you buy electrical parts from customers? Thanks Paul Baresel 207-727-5855
  12. I have a 1925 Gardner model 5 (C5). It has a 4 cylinder Lycoming engine model CE. Many ignition parts are made by Westinghouse. I have a part number for the distributor off of a wiring diagram for a 1923-25 Gardner. It is a Westinghouse distributor number 290356. On my distributor it has type JN. The body is broken on my distributor and I need to replace it. I understand the Lycoming engine was used on several vehicles. So if anyone has one to sell, I will be very grateful or help to send me in the right direction to find one. Thanks
  13. I have a 1924 Gardner C5, with a Lycoming CE, 4 cylinder engine. I would like to purchase these points and other ignition parts for this engine. How do we go about the transaction as I a m not a strong computer use. Also, I am looking for the distributor Westinghouse model nbr 290356. I would like to purchase the distributor if you have it or can you tell me where I may locate one for sale? thanks Paul
  14. Hello Everyone, Here are some photos of the 1924 tour delux, C5 Gardner. Bob Gardner, President of the Gardner club, has helped me to identify the model of the car. At first, we thought it was a radio flyer, but now with the car exposed to sunlight after 20 years, it is still a beauty. I enjoy history with cars, and Bob was actually able to trace down the dealership in Canada that sold the car. There are stamped an address and telephone number on the cover and front page. I am going to try to copy the ad, but I am not a good computer user and may loose it. The car came from Consolidated Motors located in Winnipeg, Canada. Also, there were two other names of previous owners of this car written on the back cover of the owners manual, to the previous buyer, and now me. One person owned the car for 29 years. I am very thankful to Bob and other members of the club for helping me out. One ought to read the article about Bob Gardner's adventure into the world of Gardners. I do not plan to rush in to this project. I want to learn more about the mechanics, like the ignition governor, and search for some parts. I am more mechanic that body man and really look forward to learn this impressive engine. Paul
  15. Thank you for your comments. I did purchase the car. Now the fun begins Paul