Mark Gregush

Yes you could. Barrow one of these: 2.7 in. Color Compact Digital Inspection Camera (harborfreight.com or get the adapter to use your smartphone.

Have you checked the timing and where are you placing the timing lever after you start? How is the compression? An engine can still run smoothly even if timing is off or lever is not in the correct position but will overheat the engine. Have you taken the carb apart and cleaned it? Mine was plugged up with fine dust. Even just partly taking it down, you should be able clean with carb cleaner and blow the muck out of the holes. Also, check to make sure the ball check valves at the bottom of the dash pot are moving. The backfiring when accelerating tends to make me think it is running too lean or the dash pot is sticky and not free to move like it should.

Not sure on the filling part, so you would have to remove the cover to clean and inspect the gears etc when replacing the rear end lube?

"The answer is found by reading on in the handbook." My 1914 to 1927 Mechanics' Instruction Manual shows the above illustrations with no information that I could see as far as any descriptions of the different switches on a quick look through, maybe I missed it. US cars, it was less common for them to come with a magneto after 1916 when the Delco distributor was introduced, so maybe some of that information was dropped. Could be because the Australian and NZ cars used the magneto much longer that information stayed in the book longer. ?

Re above 3 point switch illustration: Could be the person doing the drawing got the label wrong and should have just said magneto and was just one of those things that never got corrected.

Not the car I would worry about, it's someone swiping the key! lol Been driving my 20 Dodge the last couple of day getting ready for a parade tomorrow.

For cars or powered equipment, I have run stuff that the gas was well over a year old and know others that have even run gas that was older than that. Did it run, yes. Did it run well, was ok but not as strong. A lot depends on where you live in this big country. NOT all area gets the same gas or gas mixture. (Pacific Northwest) I see a lot of these post, boils down to one size experience does not fit all, your location/experience may vary.

I am pulling it off the market. Found some rust out on the top rail. Tried to take some photos and just did not work out. Sorry and good luck with your search. Mark

Checked the door I have, yes the measurements are the same. But the one I have, the skin is really wavy and bead area between the hinges is bent, along with being very rusty but solid. Unless the passenger door you have is rotted out, and if it looks anything like the driver side you show, I would suggest finding a place that does acid stripping and use it. Don't know if that is the drivers side you took off to replace or the replacement you got, but if it is the one that was on the car, I would have had it cleaned and used it. I really never had looked that close at the one I have, it was just a door that I kept moving around. While I don't want that much for it, the shipping down to you might be high for its condition. If you haven't, you might want to post what you need on the two Dodge Brothers Facebook pages. There are a few guys down in California that post on Facebook that might have something better than the one I have. Sorry to get hopes up for you (and me) but would rather have someone see it in person and not ship something you would not be happy with.

I have a passenger side rear but is missing the latch/door handle (type made for outside door handle). What is the size of the opening? Not sure if it is for the 114 or 116 wheel base cars.

You start it at full retard and advance after it starts. Check fuel supply. use the priming cup if needed to start.

I with a hand pump, I burp the hose.

Over on the right in the message box you will see three dots. Click on them and will open a dialog box where you can delete or hide the posting. Hope that works.

Could be later 1930-31 Ford Model A fender. The earlier 1930 had part of the running board splash shield (apron) attached to it. Not an expert on the exact differences between the 1930 to 1931 fender crease lines or if the front part of the shield has been removed, but fender falls in that range.

"Dark side" MaHaHa! Good chance what is being asked about is a closed car, but you never know.

https://forums.aaca.org/forum/38-dodge-dodge-brothers/ If you have not, you might want to post this question in above section. You might get more Dodge Brothers owners eyes on it.

While both are organic, cornstarch is plant based and talc is mineral. I wondered if cornstarch being plant based would cause it to get gloopy in the tire and cake when dry whereas, talc would remain somewhat stable. Maybe they both remain somewhat stable returning to their original state but have avoided cornstarch and use talc.

Looking at the Master Parts List, I was hoping to find a notation on ordering replacement keys. It just shows ordering a new lock with two keys or listing for new keys. The parts book shows it could be a Briggs and Stratton starting at car number A430625. What you might do is take the lock out and see if a "good" locksmith could make a key or rekey it. Other suggestion might be to deactivate it by knocking out the pin and removing the part that stick down. It would not affect the operation of the car. Making a guess looking at the lock sample shown above if that could be done. The key the OP shows could be a door lock key, later ignition key or transmission lock key. My guess would be that somewhere on it might be a stamped number, which would match up to needed key, like the number stamped on the ignition tumbler.

No apology needed.

You should post down in the Dodge Brothers section also. Better chance of the eyes on the question are other Dodge owners. (plus there are a lot of guys from Australia and NZ that post there) lol I look at your others post and noticed how you spelled tyre!

You could also sign-up on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America and ask there. There are sections for different year groups. While joining the club in encouraging, you don't have to. Also there is the Facebook page hosted by same club. https://www.facebook.com/groups/50230437832/

Could it be something as simple as those two plugs are bad and not firing under compression?

So, you are going to drop the pan and pull the pistons?

All the grit from the stones and metal filings is being flung into the cylinders. You should have rags in the cylinders and covering the open valve(s). Any wash down will just get down into the cylinders and sit on the rings.

RE Drill Dr: it will do a passable job of sharpening. I agree to a point with that statement. I don't have steady hands or good eye site even with glasses, so using a grinder is a challenge. There was a long gap between 1972 taking ag shop class and when I needed to sharpen any drills.