Mark Gregush

They look like aftermarket wheels for a Ford Model T with solid rubber tires. They mounted on pre-installed studs much like modern wheels. Most would have normal tire/tube installed so if you had a flat, would change the whole wheel instead of fixing the flat on the car. The rim looks to be the clincher type, so the solid rubber tire may have been added later.

Doing a quick thumb through of my 1925-1930 RADCO Carburetor and Motor Tune Up Manual, I do not find a listing for any car that would have had a Stromberg U4 (including PA). The biggest I came across was a U3. The 4 would indicate the size of the passage at the throttle butterfly. Wonder if this is for a truck, my books don't cover trucks, just cars. I am just posting what I found and will bow to more learned minds.

Click on the image to enlarge.

If the wheels are rubber, they in theory would act as shock absorbers. If you look just behind and down from the tail pipe, you can just see the casting going around the small wheel along with the fillet that looks to be part of the rib around the inside center of the rim. If you scroll down this link you will see some of the oddball spring loaded wheels sold for the Model T Ford. Model T Ford Forum: Show us your accessory wheels (mtfca.com)

If you enlarge the photo and look closely, the smaller wheels are locked into place by the casting of the outer rim. They don't rotate.

Cutting and pasting a link works best, esp on an active forum like that one.

Yes, but in some places could get you a ticket. In Oregon for example, they can't be used for non farm equipment nor if it is capable of going over 25 MPH. Not saying it's a bad idea.

Could be the cork seal is shot which would require pulling the transmission to repair or is over filled. The fluid level should only be about mid-point or as shown on the right-side removable plate that holds the gear. Other options are to either put thicker lube in or carry a drip pan and live with it till the transmission can be pulled if it is not a case of overfilling.

There is a Dodge Brothers section further down the list of cars. Suggest you also post there. There are at least two good Facebook pages. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/38-dodge-dodge-brothers/ Dodge Brothers Motor Cars | Groups | Facebook Dodge Brothers Club, Inc. | Groups | Facebook

Dodge Brothers

You might also look in Chiltons Auto Manual or Motor Manual from that time period.

you might post in the Dodge Brothers section and get those eyes on the question.

It isMahaha! The next person can do as they see fit. But you left out the part about making safe to drive.

Not getting hung up on restoring it but making it safe to drive and enjoying them.

You might try asking on Fordbarn.com in the late V8 section.

Valve lash needs to be set with engine up to operating temp. At .004 and .005 clearance, the valves will expand in length too and close that gap up if done cold.

The 1915 (1914) to 1927 Master Parts Price List does list bumpers from 3 different manufactures with no years specified. I would think that maybe the bumper bar(s) might be made to work, but by 1929/30 the mounting brackets might be different because the wheels were smaller, car sat lower and more than likely the frame horns were different. Style wise, might not be era correct.

Another thing to pay attention to if you are a young driver, some of those companies have age restrictions.

Sactownog last visited on Feb 2ed, 2021.

While using the term early may be subjective, Dodge did produce a Mechanics' Instruction Manual up to at least April 1927.

Go to the web sites of the companies suggested above and read what why and how's of their coverage. Then ask yourself how you fit within those parameters. Not all companies are a good fit for everyone. I go through Farmers Insurance but theirs is a bit more limiting than some of the others.

Most covers would have the hole at the bottom half of the cover, which could be used to check the lube level in the rearend or to draw it out using a suction gun when changing if does not have a drain hole.

You might want to start your own post.

Too much fuel, flooding, can bog an engine down. When you set the air valve, was it seated or maybe partly open? Once the car starts, engine vacuum keeps it open. Do a compression test. Just because the engine was rebuilt at some point would not rule out sticking or valve that is not closing all the way or the cold gap is too small. When setting the valve clearance, the engine needs to be up to operating temperature not cold, for the values given. Are you going by the instructions given in the Mechanics' Instruction Manual or Book of Information? As you cannot get the engine to run all that long, at this point you might want to open the gaps up some till you can get the engine to keep running. Once you get to the point the engine will run and can get up to temperature, then readdress the valve gap.

You could have a lot of drag from the rings against the honed cylinders.