Mark Gregush

Not sure which side it would have gone on with righthand thread.

Pretty sure those came in right and left hand thread. The cap also holds the pin that goes thru the hub plate and axel in place.

The rim clamps were just whatever they had laying around, not an indication of what car the wheels came off of.

My 48 F2 has one, as did my 58 Morris Minor. The 48 is a bugger to turn over and it's a 6, the Morris I had to use it more than a few times, mostly for show.

You mean this one; https://forums.aaca.org/topic/379263-antiquevintage-hand-crank-four-cylinder-engine/#comment-2374467

Looks like they could not get tires for it so attached the outer tread so it could be rolled. Like many steel wheeled farm tractors so things are not torn up.

I just looked closer at the clock in the background. The photo was not flipped, so removed photo.

Click on edit and put what car you need these parts for in the title so people that might have the parts see that. There should also be a Studebaker section down below.

Well Mark how is working on your 21 Dodge going? Let me tell you; Trying to get the brakes to work. Changed out the right side service band, made a new clevis pin for the lever to band and installed, setup. Checking the left side, things looked ok, except, the backing plate casting is lose on the axle so the whole things shifts when you apply the brakes. Checked the tapered set screw that holds it in place, it is in as far as it can go. Got every thing pretty well dialed in then when to hook up the rod between the equalizer and arm under the crossmember, it's too short! Someone cut it down. It is hooked up, the levers in the rear are too far forward. Pedal goes to the floor and sorta stops. Test drive yesterday around the block with brakes somewhat working, engine was kicked and bucked, almost didn't make it home. Spent today working on the ignition and carb. Got it to run pretty good after getting inconstant fire at the points. Swaped those out for better ones. Also found that the spring in the coil wire was not making contact with coil, but don't think it was working all that well so took it out and put a modern coil and resister in its place. The condenser seem ok when I checked it. Decided to change out the pulley on the water pump/distributor shaft. Some one had used a cotter pin to install and was wobbly. Took it off, the key way was blasted out and hole worn. Guess it will go back on for now. The fan needs bushings too! Need a new head gasket, it is bubbling on the right-side rear. The rear exhaust manifold stud is too. Along with the old oil pan gasket that needs replacing, it has some weepy areas. Ok everything is doable. Adding on to above; there still is the wrong wheels, tires that only pass for tires, wrong back half of the body, pillows for seats...the list goes on and on and...! Did take it for a short drive with the fan still off, that was a mistake. I don't think I have seen my Model T spout that much water! LOL Oh! I did take up the clevis at the pedal some. Bands are dragging some, which could be why if overheated, but brakes did stop the car.

C4 would be the Model A Ford plug, which is why they may still list it. So you know, there are other plugs such as Motorcraft, that might be lower cost and would have the same fit. The C4 had a little extra reach between the thread and end. You can also buy adapters to use 14mm plugs. That would allow you to try different heat ranges.

Or could be reading the replies without logging in? While not 100%, but is there a registry for Locomobiles and is someone by that last name listed? How about HHCA or one of the others? Of course, the last name could be made up so as not to tip their hand.

cudaman's journey; Lost My Mind - Bought a Flanders 20 (Model T Competitor) - MTFCA Forum

The Motors Auto Repair Manual talks about an "IGA" mark on the Vibration Damper. Maybe do a little paint removal and see it that is what you're looking at. Odd cylinders are left bank. Ok hopefully someone can tell us what IGA means! There is more information about degrees etc but would need to know what distributor it has (model number, brand)

Many would have been installed in the dash or mounted to side of seat so you could add pressure to the tank as needed. Guessing should have that ball check valve to prevent fuel from back flowing into pump. For the early Dodge setup as an example, there would be two lines, one for fuel to carb the other to pump up the tank. If your tank does not have a 2ed line, could be the fuel cap had the fitting?What are you putting it on? How new?

have you check the AACA library. They have copy services.

Big differences between the two if it still has stock box. The 1915 if stock would have cone clutch and the gearbox was aluminum and cast as part of the bell housing/rear motor mount. So there would be lots of parts differences. If these parts have been changed out, different story. I suggest posting your question down in the Dodge Brothers section. You are going to get eyes on it that work with the 1938 back Dodge cars and trucks. You might want to do a little exploring first so you can see what is in place and post some pictures if you can.

I sure like the color. It is nice to get things sorted out and be able to drive.

Gemmer steering gears US Pat. office - Google Search Maybe this should have been in Technical for less chatter?

That Chrysler is also right-hand drive.

Looked again, it is 3 slots.

The sample shown in the post above, it's hard to see the sealing end. The end on the one I now have sitting on my desk looks rounded, not just a taper. Oh, the slot for the gas to enter, is on both sides.

"One owner I know showed me a better way to start these cars. He removed the float bowl top, turned the tap on his fuel pump, and raised the fuel level above normal, turned off the tap and refitted the top of the float bowl. Turned on the tap and started his car not trouble. Less messy and quicker." Don't need to take the cover off, just remove the acorn nut over the float valve and hold down. That will flood the carb pretty fast. Wouldn't even need to turn the valve off.

Ya, being a T owner, some people can get real persnickety over things, even if it is not a show car. LOL I would say, if the rear end is newer and you plan on driving the car, rebuild the one you have. The correct one will set you back a good chunk of green. The 3rd link cudaman posted, is more in line with current price. If anyone says anything, just tell them you are saving up to buy the correct one.

From the size of the runners on the intake could be 1928 Chevrolet engine. Besides going to two exhaust ports, they increased the size of the intake. Pretty sure the enclosed flywheel started in 1925, so engine could be 1925 to 1928 (head could have been changed at some point, fits the same). There should be some numbers on the right side, at about the distributor level. Can't help with that ID. Is the distributor mounted in the block or on back of generator?

But if you are paying someone by the hour....