Mark Gregush

People can be funny/strange! The rest of the car is being restored (how much we don't know), but they get stuck on keeping the original wood wheels for sentimental reasons and finding a whole set to replace them with. Maybe they could be talked into keeping the spokes from one wheel, and have a shadow box made with some of the other parts that were replaced in it too.

These photos were taken after the June 1912 tornado/cyclone in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada. Any ideas on the make of car. https://www.saskarchives.com/collections/exhibits/regina-cyclone-1912

You might try the Model T Ford Club or America's classifieds or one of the Facebook pages. You do not have to be a member of the MTFCA to use the forums or parts classifieds, but you do have to sign up.

You might start by taking the band off and see if anything drops out. If there are parts that have come loose inside, they may be sitting in one of the openings.

The ones we get now for the T and As are just split exhaust pipe that is cut to length. They do a few things, help support the manifolds and help direct the flow in/out of the manifolds, and to some extent protect the gaskets.

Looks like it would have had gland rings like the Model T, A and 32-34 Ford 4 cylinder engines. Here is a sample; https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979405&cat=41733

Couldn't off set flanges be mounted to the torque tube so the input/outputs for the over drive would line up?

Mostly Ford Model T driver, and let me tell you, locked up brakes can skid you into an intersection just as easily on dry pavement as wet! Been there more often than I have ever wanted to. Know your stopping distance and keep back from the car in front. But sometimes the light goes red faster than planned.

I have seen a number of post on the Model T Ford Club of America's forum also about going with the .003 clearance, aluminum pistons in cast iron block. In many cases, the expansion rate between the block and pistons has a good chance of locking up or scoring at that clearance. When working on the Model T or A's, we have been going with the .004-.005 clearance to be on the safe side. Question might be, is that .0015 all around the piston giving a total of .003 side to side or just .0015? I think the old rule of thumb is .001" of clearance per inch of diameter. Different grades of aluminum and cast iron have different expansion rates, then also cooling comes into play. No, I don't totally understand it all, so just want to stay on the safe side

My flip phone shows it right next to how many bars I am at.

Even back in the Model A era, there was a stop light that you put in the rear window. So the 3rd (2ed in this case) light up high was not a new idea. The one I saw, both in an ad and the one a friend has, used a neon bulb.

If you have the paperwork in your name on any of the cars, that would help in the long run. While yes, a buyer could finagle the paperwork, most do not have the ways and means to do so. If you do have it, say so in the ad. Remember that you are not just listing in your local, it is nationwide. While your state may be easy, not all others are. Guessing, you are just testing the waters. When you do write an ad up, don't use the title like you have on this one. I was thinking you had questions on what a frame is worth. In this day an age of people taking their phone number with them, you need to put at least your general location in the ad. Personally, I think you may be shooting yourself in the foot trying to sell both cars for one money. You could start out that way, but you might be prepared to split them up. Not everyone has room for a few cars and part, but might have room for one. The more correct term might be chassis, which would include the running gear, not frame.

AC on the front the brand/company that made it.

Most often seen on the street side front and maybe rear fenders. Some places/cities required cars left parked on the street to have the tail light or fender marker lights turned on after dark.

The Dodge Brothers Club also has a Facebook page; Dodge Brothers Club, Inc. More eyes on the question, the better chance of a reply. There are a number of guys that post there that live in your part of the world. Also, there is; (1) Dodge Brothers Motor Cars

Bosch, or any magneto, suggest making sure the rotation is correct. While sure, that might be changed, but if you don't have to, one less hurdle to jump.

Nice thing about M-1's, they are all over the place, including eBay. Cool truck. I remember a tractor dealership in the 70s, that had a couple of those in the back lot, of about the same vintage.

I would take any of the cars shown in those three photos, and not just the ones that are the main subject!

?

From the information on Facebook looks like he has one coming from Bob Scafani.

RE the batteries on cement floors; Early batteries were in wood cases with hard rubber cells setting in the case (IE 6 volt, would have 3 cells), the later ones replaced the wood with a hard rubber case with cells molded in. So yes, there could have been issues setting them on damp concrete floors.

Becasue the accident was on private property, wouldn't that come under your homeowners not car insurance?

In the book American Woodys, David Fetherston, says that GM bought MP in 1931. Mostly MP was a Northeastern supplier from information in same book. There is only a little bit of information in the book on the early Depot hack or Estate wagon.

And remember, skidding is not stopping!

Would have come in a kit with several different size dies for punching holes.