Mark Gregush

From the photo, the thread looks to course for Model T.

To me it looks like Ford Model A with plate added to the rear for other application. The only thing that makes me not sure, is that bump out with the divots on the one side.

Maybe you can see gas in the sediment bowl, but is it actually getting into the carburetor? The float valve could be stuck shut. If the carburetor has a drain on it, open and check for sure. Another thing, could have stuck valves. Pull the plugs and check compression.

I got it wrong.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/unspecified/2545862.html It is also being talked about on Facebook, Dodge Brothers Motor Car page; (1) Dodge Brothers Motor Cars

I used them many years ago to resleeve a Morris Minor master cylinder. So they have been at it for a while.

Why would you paint them after installing, anyway? Wouldn't they have been cad plated or such?

My logic says the 2ed photo. As the door opens, the rubber stop would stay more or less flat against the door.

Gilsonite could be another name for it; https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=mtfca+Gilsonite https://www.naturalpigments.com/gilsonite-4-oz-vol.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzfuNBhCGARIsAD1nu-9s-MsmI6mkHNfFfZWqQ07jxMcunLdeUoAOPDpA9xTdog5BQypKIScaAnhNEALw_wcB Googling "asphaltum wash/paint", found a number of different products.

Why would the metal used to cast this carb be any different than the millions of carbs made by Zenith in the same era, cause the car to burn? Unless you are talking about later having warping issues? Some do, some don't. If the top is warped over the fuel bowl, there are work arounds. One might be to use the UUR2 if it can be found.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/raising-serial-number-203569/

non-members can use the classifieds, just no pictures; Classifieds : Parts & Collectibles For Sale

This is why many cars etc not having duel sources, using magnetos, are equipped with an impulse coupler. It is a device that has an internal spring and latch. When the spring is wound while cranking and the correct spot is arrived at, the latch releases, allowing the rotor to spin faster, generating a stronger spark.

The 5th terminal does not have to be used, the magneto should work fine without it. Unless, the rod that goes through the magnets to the other end is missing/damaged. That rod assembly is what carries the current to the front, point end. The 5th terminal on the cap is there IF you wanted to use battery/coil to start the car, then switch to run off the magneto. The kill wire would be connected to the cap covering the points terminal. If you look at the one I posted the link to, you can see at rod looking piece.

That wire attached to the tower and running around to the other end; isn't it just replacing the part that should be there, but would be bypassing the safety gap? https://www.ebay.com/itm/164170376742 Unless there are other issues, I am not aware that that wire would even be used or needed. The 5th terminal would be used in conjunction with a standard 6 or 12 volt automotive coil, or Model T coil with bridge tied down for starting on battery.

Call them on Monday, they seem to respond better to phone calls.

Sorry if the link to Myers catalog listing for the disk came right after the suggestion about the yoke. Glad that it is only the disk missing. Also listed under cooling.

Which part is missing? The yoke or the rubberized disk? Myers Early Dodge or ROMAR Home Page should have the disk in stock. If it is the yoke, they may have one. Link to disk; https://www.myersearlydodge.com/image.php?ws_page=cooling.php&ws_image=DSCN0467.JPG Re the yoke; keep your eyes on eBay. There are a number of G4's there now, but without yoke; https://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Eisemann https://www.ebay.com/sch/12576/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Eisemann

If a closed car is more to your liking, how about this 1920 (no connection); https://www.ebay.com/itm/154741467098?hash=item24074f67da:g:UxoAAOSwo8JhsnSQ

Me too, re the thumb! 😁

Another option is a hub knocker. It is a capped nut that screws down and seats on the end of the axle. The wheel you are removing is left on the ground, the other side is jacked up. Then use a good size sedge hammer to knock the axle out of the hub. They come in different sizes, but here is a sample; https://www.ebay.com/itm/254207061844?nma=true&si=ynyJXmxt1eGr9ZSQosQ7eW2WH9w%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 or you could loosen the nut and drive around the block a few times, sometimes that will work too.

T and Dodge are resting under their silver tarps in the backyard. The T's engine is in pieces in the shop. One is not legal and the other is apart or would be taking them out for a spin, even in the rain or cold.

Cool booklet! Not so sure about the exhaust heater, not because it uses the exhaust (where the flex tube go in, is not sealed), but because of where the fumes exit. That type of heater that I have seen, the exhaust is routed back into the exhaust pipe.

When the guys put Ford Model A cranks in Model T blocks, without having the crank ground any more than to clean up, the main cap bolts holes come in to the saddles a wee bit. When the Babbitt is poured, the hole is just cleaned out for the bolt. RE the block I showed; yes on saving guts. Right now it is taking up less storage space sitting on its tail end.

I was going to pull down and overhaul this engine for my 1920, it is a bit closer to my build date, and found this, oh buggers;