Mark Gregush

I spent about 10 years working on Ford Model A's, this comes up often on sites that deal with them; people suggesting bearing numbers for double shielded type. Correct about the removing the shield from the side that faces in. Any grease that might be in them isn't going to last long.

And for the USofA, same bearings (yes, I have been watching them too); https://www.ebay.com/itm/125048625473?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I did some checking in my copy of "RADCO Carburetor and Motor Tune-Up Manual" covering 1925 to 1930. I could not find any cars that used the O-1 carburetor. Lots with, for example; OS-1 and a good number with O-2 or O-3. This manual cover most of the full size, more common US cars. There are a few makes missing like Austin and Ford Model T. What size is the passage at the throttle butterfly? I wonder if it could be a jobber replacement, 1 size fits all for same size OE-1? I don't recall the circled part being on my OE-1, but would have to check. So could be for truck or special application.

Why? It has gone beyond the first post and got interesting. Could be they are reading this and not logged in.

When I first read the title, I was expecting to read that someone's shop/garage burnt down, and they lost all their cars.

From a post on Facebook Dodge Brothers club page; "problem is that the original buyers from the studio RESTORED the car, replacing the smashed fender and painting over Stewart's fingerprints and so forth. So to a great extent it is now just any ordinary 1919 Dodge." Ya, well sorta kinda.

When I was in high school 1970-74, one of the guys in my class had one like the Kaiser Manhattan. To me, that dip screams Kaiser and is how I picture them.

Get creative if you want to drive the car. Hang the coil off someplace, wire in an off/on switch if you have to, and wire it up. Find one or two existing holes or bolts/screws on the firewall you could hang it from. Think outside the box. The coil that you use for replacement, even if temporary, don't have to be grounded.

"With respect, there was no statistically significant difference in the ratios of fours to V8s sold in Canada versus those sold in the U.S." I did not say anything about ratios, I just said that from information I have seen, there were more 4 cylinder cars/trucks sold in Canada than the US, and because the question was asked about a 34, that would relate to that year, maybe 33 too. I did work on a nice unrestored 33 3 window coupe that came from the factory with the 4 cylinder engine.

Scroll down the page and put your ad on this page; https://forums.aaca.org/forum/46-cadillac-lasalle/ Posting in this section, it might get lost. Don't post your email or phone number in the ad, it opens the door for scammers. Interested parties can contact you through site messaging. Might want to click on edit and remove them. There are ways to add to the post, but do not type them out like you have. Spelling out a number or symbol is one way. IE @=at, .=dot etc. When you place your ad, there should be a window that you can click on wanted or for sale, think it is upper left side. Add that to your listing, so people know that you are looking for parts. Also add that you need cowl light brackets in the title.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/modelcmyth.htm What I have read over the years is, that there were a lot more 4 cylinder cars sold in Canada then US. The C cast in the head does not indicate there is a counter balanced crankshaft in the engine. That is covered in the write-up.

LOL I was going to post a link to the one on The Model T Ford Club of America, then I saw it was you doing the asking there! But in case anyone else wants to have a look see; https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26346&p=203148&hilit=5+ball#p203148

I don't about missing part, but that gasket looks thin and suspect.

I have seen that also, but if you look at the wiring diagram, there are differences in how the cutout/starter switch wiring is configured between - & + ground. Not sure how much that matter, I spaced out and hooked my 20 up backwards, the ampere meter still showed a charge only on the negative side. Changed it back and charged the correct way without flashing.

I saw a post on Fordbarn.com in the Model A section, of a group of people doing a mud run with their Model A's in England. Some posters were caterwauling about them treating their cars that way, it was a sacrilege against all car people! Me, I posted that it look like great fun and the people were having a good time and some people needed to lighten up.

Look for leaks around the intake manifold to block gasket and carb mounting gasket. When the engine is running, does it seem to want more fuel/richer mixture than normal at idle? That could indicate a leak in those places.

Ok I am far from being an expert on welding, but welding or brazing a cast iron block is one thing, the exhaust manifold is a whole different kettle of fish. Years of expansion/contraction and carbon impregnating the material, make for a hard to repair piece. As suggested above, find the end of the crack and drill a small hole. That should help keep the crack from growing longer. You could tap the hole and install a bolt, then cut off flush. Clean the surface and use high-temp JB Weld as a surface patch over the crack. I just pinned a Model T block water jacket. Years of rust left areas where I was working, rather thin. One area, about an inch long, had the pin drop out and couple that spined when drilling the next one. Not fun, and still hoping they hold. On page two of link above, there are a couple of important notes, pre-heating and clamping the manifold down.

Many cars have intake cast the same way in that era and later, such as the Ford Model T. Chevrolet used 2 cast in runners for the intake on one side and a single exhaust port on the other till 1927, then added one more exhaust port on the 4s for on the heads. Dodges 4 exhaust on one side and a single intake on the other. To add, those steps in the ports in the block would have at one time held gland rings to help seal and keep the manifolds from warping. Except a 3 month window in 1929 or 1930, Ford used them in all 4 cylinders engines from 1908 to 1934. You will note I am skipping the crack question, but for me, I would live with it.

I am glad I am not the only one to spot the road apples or meadow muffins! Yes, Ford Model T with after market body. The radiator has a taller shell to match the cowl. Might have come with a screw in extension, but that is a WAG.

What would they use now; The most flashy, expensive car on the lot! When I worked at a Chevrolet dealership, in the early 2000s, the floor displays were generally the best cars on the lot. Corvette, SSR (samething pretty much as a Corvette, but with roadster pickup body) etc.

For US cars, the Master parts list show the 2ed series Kelsey steel felloe wheels starting between cars number 434412 and 436468 which would be between 20 Jan and 11 Feb 1920. For Canadian built cars, there could be different introduction dates. In the Model T world, there were some things that were introduced on cars built in Canada before the US cars. My 1920 DB, built around Feb 1920, would have had those wheels and rims. Currently, it has a set of Dodge wood felloe wheels and rims mounted, which would be about a month or two wrong. If they are in good shape and roll down the road straight, that would work for me and damn anyone that says different.

Looks like at lest a couple of those rims are for steel felloe wheels. That closes rim, the two holes on the side, that is how to tell Canadian rims from USA rims. US rims don't have them. Canadian rims used that mouse trap rim spreader. Oh to add, that is a really great repair job on those latches.

Plugged jet(s) or idle circuit or other passages. ?

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/ihc-autowagon-almost-done.219255/

Does that engine have Babbitted shell bearing or are they poured? If they are Babbitted shell bearings you can send them to; https://www.kohnkerebabbittingservice.com/ Kohnke Rebabbitting Service | Facebook More than likely they are the shell type. You would still need to have them line bored to fit your crank after you got them back, but would save shipping the whole block.