Mark Gregush

You don't have to remove the radiator/hood but would make it easier. I have replaced one with it still in place. The front of the engine has to be supported. Yoke/generator removed. Then remove the timing cover/side cover. Make sure the pan bolts are out. Break the nut free and remove, it's tight. Remove timing gear and make sure the timing marks are lined up when installing new one. Replace the rope seal in cover, install gaskets and reinstall parts. Hope no bits and pieces fell in the pan. Think the one I did, had two blade fan, don't know if 4 blade would be in the way.

Some were laminated, they normally are pretty good. Others were macerated (chopped short fiber) very prone to loosing teeth. Then there are the ones that could be made of either material but have a steel or aluminum center, those are well known to give out.

Look under clutch for the grease fitting. On page 171 the cutaway shows were to fill and page 173 says how much.

What engines it could be used on depends on several of the diameters. This would have been used to cut the center thrust when using the thicker babbitt shell type or direct poured crankshaft bearings.

Use the same process for installing Ford Model A pans.

Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

If you have the 1914-1927 Mechanics' Instruction Manual, it was updated as time went by. It should have information on the latest models.

Might check down below for one of the GM forums or try asking on the VCCA Facebook page too.

If they are the plate type, when you get the key, you might be able to line them up on the key and move around till they all line up if you can figure out the number. When I got my new key, because the one I had (and lost) would not stay in the slot and was the wrong number, would fall out. Took the switch apart for service, found out why the key would not stay in, no tumblers! Flat blade screwdriver works great and no expensive key to lose. LOL

That seller is way over priced in my OP. I got mine from this seller; Dodge Graham Maxwell key 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 CLUM switch key | eBay

clum key: Search Result | eBay

You will have to take the floor boards out or get under the car. The filler should be on the right side of the transmission, drain on the bottom.

Very nice! Could you add a link for the information on the 4 cylinder caps? I looked at your post, but there were pages of them.

The OP last logged on May 16th and signed up on May 12th. Sure they could be watching without logging on.

The OP last logged on May 16th and signed up on May 12th. Sure they could be watching without logging on.

Find someone that can do early VW or Model A Ford drums or has older drum lathe. They should have the smaller spindle and tapers to hold the drums.

Hassler shock absorbers. More common on Ford Model Ts. I have the front ones, just not installed. Need a pair of the coil springs for them. The gas tank is in its normal spot.

This would have been a simple straight forward thing if the seller had the title. Some were along the long history of the car it was lost. He was selling it from his dads estate and had bills of sale that went back to before 1975, having passed through several different owners before his Dad got it. The process started 4-5 months ago, sending in all the papers I had been given along with title application. Had to barrow a trailer 2 times to take in for serial number inspection, the first time, ran out of time so had to bring it home and take trailer back brother. 2ed time, the field office I went to had not been notified of my appointment but after checking with main office found there had been a goof up on the part of the main office, so honored my appointment. Had to turn in more documents at time. The 2ed inspection and turning in more documents was about 8 weeks ago.

Never would have thought about all this till reading this post. Of course in western Oregon, don't think not downshifting would be an issue! LOL Not like I live in a flat state.

"You can't charge back on your credit card after sixty days." It is 180 days for most and longer on some cards for a charge back.

There is also the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America, VCCA. They have a web site and Facebook page. There should be a GM or Chevrolet page here just scroll down some. \|/

Besides your other post, you might post here: Chrysler Products - General - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org) This section deals with Dodge Brothers cars/trucks made up to about 1938, so most people looking will have cars/trucks made between 1914 and 1938.

I was going that direction for my 1920 Dodge, but the springs were designed for the weight to be spread out over them, not all in one place so do not support the weight directly on them very well. The wire used is not real heavy like what would be used for car seats.