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  1. Guys, I'm desperate for help. My dads friend has a 1927 Dodge Senior Sedan. My dad in trying to help his friend pulled the master cylinder to have it shipped and rebuilt. Fed Ex lost the package. I've searched and cannot find one. Do any of you have any suggestions on where to search, know where one is(miracle), or have any suggestions on what to do. Any and all help is very much apprecitated. Thank You Joseph
  2. My grandfather just bought a 1946 Ford Deluxe Tudor sedan and we went to move it after it was delivered and the brake pedal would not come back off. The previous owner installed a dual reservoir master cylinder. Are these known to stick in cold weather? It was 16 - 19 degrees today. I've been around old cars since I was young and I have never seen this before. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hello. I have a 1949 KB1 that needs new shoes. Does anyone know of a supplier or a parts interchange number that works for NAPA or similar? Thanks much!
  4. Well it seems this brake problem happens to all of us. Car was running and braking just fine, no amber or red lights on the Teves system, and suddenly no braking pressure at all and its throwing both warning lights. I'm crossing my fingers and praying the pump and accumulator are ok. One of the three relays (I have no idea which is which) still engages but has pretty high resistance across the contacts. I'd like to just change out all three relays on the Teves system but am having problems finding a cross reference. Any assistance would be great! Here are the designations for the relays that were in the car. Siemens V23134-K3-X68 12v Hella RB 005 721-01 12v Siemens V23134-E52-X83 12v Thanking you in advance, James
  5. Does anybody know who supplies the flexible shield (pictured below) that goes over the 3/16" brake cable on my 1932 Pontiac. The shield diameter is 9/16". I am sure this was a common material for mechanical brakes. The pieces for the front brakes have broken due to flexing as the wheels turn. Again...probably a very common problem.
  6. Hey Everyone, I'm hoping to get some help on this one. I got a 1923 Ford T-bucket that someone put what appears to be some classic Dodge Plymouth Chrysler front drum brakes on (probably from the 1937-40s). The brakes are ruined and I'm using this as an opportunity to convert to disc brake. Problem is that I'm not really able to identify the spindle. Anyone got any thoughts? Attached pictures of drum and spindle.
  7. Guest

    Mystery Spindle

    Good day to all, So I'm replacing drum brakes off of my t-bucket. I started by trying to redo the wheel cylinders and brake shoes, but quickly realized the brakes are not off a Ford (The seller must not have known a thing because he said they were 1940 Ford Truck). The shoes measured 10" by 2" which Ford never made. It didn't matter too much to me because the amount of money it cost to repair the drums was too close to buying a kit from speedway for disc brakes. Sadly, the spindle appears to be just as much of a mystery as the drum brake. Well, I've shown the spindle to all the locals, and no one knows. I'm hoping someone on here can give me an idea of what spindle I have. Extra points if anyone knows what the drums are. See attached pictures!
  8. I was wondering if anyone knew if the brake parts were interchangeable between Dodge Brothers year and model? That being said, I wondered if the brake parts for say a 1928-29 Dodge Brothers Standard would fit on a 1927 Dodge Brothers Senior Six Sedan? Are the parts the same?
  9. Hey guys I am looking for the rubber brake hoses on my 55 Buick special I haven't had a chance to check under the car yet. I was wondering is it 2 rubber hoses that go to the front wheels and then 1 that goes to a block on the rear or are they all individual? So I guess my question is are there 3 or 4 rubber lines on a 1955 Buick special?
  10. Are there any tricks anyone can pass on about how to stop an external contracting (band) brake from squealing? My 1902 White is terrible. It has a single band brake on the chain-driven differential. The lining (Scan-Pac GGW) and drum (cast iron) were replaced last year and all was fine then, but now this year the brake makes a horrible racket.
  11. Tom_

    '89 Brakes

    So I've had my '89 since April and I've had no trouble with it until two weeks ago when I'm driving through town and the red brake warning light comes on. The brakes work fine for three more lights, but when I get to the next one the pedal is reallhard to push down. I used two feet and the car will still stop just fine. Sounds like "no boost." When I get back to campus I get on here and research. I do the brake test and the first step is check the voltage to the pump. I pop the hood and the pump is vibrating and sounds like it's running at 10% power. I check the voltage and it's got 11.90V. So I go back inside and start looking for a pump motor. They are $600+. So my question is: a) Where do you get your pump motors from at any price substantially less than a re-manufactured unit? What other years/models have the same motor for a possible junkyard unit. (I know the salvage yard unit will not last as long but it's what I can afford.) Looking at other threads Jim Finn may have one but his email seems to change a lot. Any help would be appreciated ya'll. Thanks for your time.
  12. Hello, discovered that one of the front brake drum of my Century have small kracks in the casting. Some runs on the edges to the centre and one around the edge. Probably it might be the reason of the shaking during the brake. What is the solution? Is there point to refurb this drum or it would be better to change it? If change - which should be better to buy, 1. Modern aftermarket 2. Old aftermarket (Kelsey-Heynes etc? 3. Old used? What interchangeability is for 1955 Century front brake drums? right / left what production years drums fits? is this difference between super/roadmaster/century/special front brakes? is there difference between power brake car drums or not? If somebody can answer this question - thank you in advance!
  13. I recently noticed a warped effect from my wheels when brakes are applied. I haven't removed the wheels lately so I am a little confused about the source of the problem. I know the lug nuts need to be torqued @100 ft/lbs, I believe, and use a torque wrench when I rotate tires or do brake work. I had my yearly inspection done several weeks ago, so maybe the inspection folks took my wheels off and air ratcheted them back on...not sure. Anyway, I re-torqued all my wheels, thinking the problem would go away, but it has not. The effect is really pronounced after driving awhile and then applying the brakes. Is the best way to handle this the obvious route of replacing the rotors? I feel it is mainly the front brakes, so, should I replace all rotors? Can I salvage the pads or are they damaged, too? Thanks for your input. Tim 90 coupe
  14. Hey guys, I'm currently working on replacing the entire brake system on my 1954 Pontiac Chieftain. However, I've been running into some problems with the master cylinder. I ordered one online a few weeks ago and I installed it and bled the brakes. Whenever I pressed on the pedal nothing happened with the shoes and there was just a little geyser inside the reservoir of the master cylinder. I assumed the master cylinder was defective, thinking that fluid is just leaking past the piston. I bought another one and the same thing happened. Is there something wrong with the master cylinders or am I just doing something wrong? Any help would be appreciated.
  15. I'm looking for an experienced mechanic in Colorado to do some work on our 1990 TC Maserati. It has brake problems and I understand the Teves system is a bit complicated. Any recommendations on a mechanic that has worked on these before would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  16. I have a 1987 continental and it has a abs pump wich keeps leaving me with a stiff brake petal. I need to convert this too a master cylender booster set up wich is cheaper the abs pump is nearly 2000 dollars anyone know wich vehicle it could use to swap brake systems.
  17. I have a 1953 Buick Super that has power brakes. I am having a difficult time finding a rebuild kit for the master cylinder as well as the booster. does anyone have any ideas? The unit is a Delco-Moraine and I think it was also used on the 1954 model. Any help would be appreciated. :eek:
  18. [TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center] <tbody style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; ">[TR] [TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #F2F2F2]Hello all, iam curious if anyone has ever put in a 60s style master cyl/booster firewall mounted in a 55 or 56 Buick. My Buick special is drum/drum and a original power brake car. The treadle vac was gone form the car and don't plan on going that route of putting one back in.I understand that the brake lines in the 55 special are 1 inch.so theoretically if I had a drum drum power booster that was 8 inches and the master cyl was set up for 1 inch I would think it would work I'm not looking to go complete resto on the car. Will something like this work? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/8-Inch...ster,9557.html What have you used? Let's talk. Thanks everyone, and happy new year! Any advice is appreciated. Tony [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]
  19. Guest

    1952 250 convertible questions

    Hi, I just got a 1952 packard 250 convertible - gift - excellent condition, my Dad had it restored in the early 90's. i have three questions: 1.) what temp should it run at? i feel like it is overheating, but i bought a laser temp and the hoses seem to run around 198, and the block is up to 220 degrees. Is this too hot?? 2.) The car received a senior first place and had a tag with a number on it - what exactly does this mean? 3.) Also the front right brake is very and i mean very touchy. When i take it down the block and i touch the brakes, it will lock up the front right wheel and jerk the steering wheel and screech the tire. But if i slowley ride the brakes, it will make it more mellow and easier to brake. Any ideas?? Thank you for any help.
  20. I'm assuming all of you have an antique or classic vehicle of some sort. There is a small company in Grand Rapids, MI that I've been dealing with a lot lately. The name is Northwestern Auto Supply. You can find them online at Northwestern Auto Supply, Antique Auto Parts, Old Car and Truck Parts For Sale, Engine Parts, Grand Rapids, Michigan They do ship world-wide and they have just about anything you can think of for vehicles, other than any body. They DO NOT deal with body stuff. They even have a complete machine shop where they do everything right there except for turn cranks. I was surprised to learn that they even do babbiting yet. If you're restoring a vehicle back to it's original glory, there's nobody else I would turn to. The employees are a wealth of knowledge, and learn as much as possible about your problem to be sure they don't sell you the wrong part. In short, these guys truly care about the customer. They don't want to see you buy the wrong part EVER. They take pride in what they do.
  21. I just purchased a 1989 Reatta with no apparent major issues, or so I thought. However, after driving the car for about an hour, the red brake light and the amber abs light will come on. The brakes still continue to work for a little while. I thought it might be the accumulator failing, so I replaced that. Then I drove the car to work, thinking all was good. On the ride home, there was a lot of traffic, so a lot of braking. The hydraulic pump motor was overheating, causing the pressure to be really low, so I had to take 15 minute stops to let the motor cool down. Anyone have any ideas? Is this a problem with the pressure switch over working the pump? Or just that the pump is so old it can't keep up with the braking? The computer also says the cruise control is disconnected, probably unrelated, but thought I'd mention it. My local Buick service shop is not familiar with the Teves brake system. So I'm looking for some help with making this car safe to drive.
  22. My friend and I replaced the Teves ABS brake system on my '89 with a traditional master cylinder / vacuum booster yesterday, and I couldn't be more pleased. Like most everyone, I battled with the Teves on and off again over the years (more on, than off). But no more. I'm happy to report that we did the whole job in one day, and the results are super tight brakes. I got the vacuum booster, master cylinder, two proportioner valves, some line, couplings and a T-joint for about $200, which is about $450 less than a remanufactured Teves system from Prior. The system I took off was pretty much shot: leaking pump, leaking accumulator, and rusted almost beyond recognition. I'd been putting off replacing it for almost two years, topping it off with brake fluid weekly, and feeling guilty about the environment. It finally completely went out on me about a year ago, leaving the car un-drivable. I did my research and bought all the big parts prior to yesterday, which is why we got it done in a day. All my research suggested it was a straight-forward job, which it was. We only had two unexpected hiccups; both were minor. Anti-lock brakes are a nice safety net, but down here in Texas, in the 10 years I've driven this car, I've only had the ABS engage once. I'm a competent braker, when it comes to tight situations, so ABS isn't something that's very important to me. Others feel differently, I'm sure, so this mod isn't for everyone. Of course, I've only driven it for one day and I haven't tried to lock up the wheels yet, so it's a bit premature to do a victory march. However, the braking response is just as good as with the Teves, so unless our adapter fittings spring a leak, I don't expect any problems. I'm sure a few others have done this before, but I could find very little documentation on it, so I thought I'd post here in case anyone else is interested in the idea. If you are, feel free to email me at billyd.atx @ gmail . com. I'll try to post some pics of the finished mod when I get a chance.
  23. Hi all, I am having "trouble" with the brakes on my 46 4 door super. New master cylinder, all new seals in all wheel cylinders. The pedal requires a LOT of effort and does very little to stop the car. Even with a lot of effort on the pedal, the wheels can not be locked... the car does slow down but it is no where near enough braking. Just wondered what the brakes are supposed to be like on these cars.
  24. I have a 1929 Packard 6-40 Phaeton with "weak" brakes. I drove a 1920 Packard 6-33 sedan two weeks ago and purposely stomped on the brake pedal to see if I could lock up the wheels on a paved road - and they did lock and squeal on the pavement. I don't have a shop of my own to work in so I was wondering (a) if anyone can recommend a shop to take it to for brake work and ( if anyone can comment on 1929 Packard braking and in particular 1929 Packard 6-40 braking. I know another 1929 Packard 6-40 will similarly weak braking and that owner thinks it's the best it can be. I think it's dangerous and don't want to continue to drive it like this. Yes, it does stop when you come to a stop sign or traffic light BUT you have to stay a good 100ft behind the car in front in order to be safe. So, can anyone help with a referral to a shop in the Tidewater (Norfolk, Virginia) area. Can anyone help with comments about Packard 6-40 braking. If I have to take the Packard out of the Tidewater area for brake service I will do it. Thanks. George Schuetz, Norfolk, VA. Home Tel: 757-228-3202.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
  25. Guest

    Master cylinder help

    I have a Bobcat tractor(no relation to todays bobcat) It was used to plow side walks in the north east. It uses many car parts. The rear ends and brakes are 39-40 ford i beleive, the rims and tires are jeep, and the master cylinders are off some unknown vehical. The unit is cria 1950, and has a kohler engine. Now the brakes on it need some work and new wheel cylenders. The master cylinders are in need of replacement or significant work. They are Wagner Lockheed # FE 1(5 or 3)(8 or 3)80. Im just wondering what they origionially were on, and where i can find parts or prefabaly replacements. Also where is the best(cheapest) place to bye 1939-40 ford wheel cylenders. The pictures are of one master cylinder, and the whole unit. Thanks in advance -Greg
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