Bloo

I asked Diamondback a while ago what the whitewall measurement is exactly. It is the visible part from the rim edge out to the edge of the whitewall. I have in front of me a 600-16 Auburn that was special ordered with a 2-1/4" whitewall. It measures 2-1/4".

Is it too far gone to straighten? It might surprise you what can be fixed. I have had work done on steel wheels at Sound Wheel Works of Bellevue, WA with excellent results.

Different engine though, not like the 277-301-318. It is a similar design. This one is based on the old Dodge hemi block.

I shudder at the thought of tryting to re-stitch a whole car by hand. I do love old leather, and have done small repairs by hand. 6 inches of restitch is very doable. A couple of feet can push you to the brink.... a whole insert or a whole car? GAH!!! No. Read Trimacar's post and do the math.... To improve old leather, clean it! Get yourself some clear/clear-orange unscented glycerine soap. Get a soft fingernail brush that hooks over your fingers and some clean soft rags. Get a small bowl with some water in it. Dip the brush in the water, then pick up a little soap off the bar of soap. Carefully scrub a small area with the nail brush. Work on maybe a 4 to 6 inch square at a time. Finish, then move on. Try to use as little water as possible. Scrub, wipe with a damp rag, then buff with a dry rag. It works because you are not only removing dirt, but some of the "leather treatments" or "softeners" that soaked into the leather, dried out, and made it hard as a rock. Do this every couple of months. It will probably improve drastically. I wouldn't put those treatments back on. IMHO many of them are the problem, not the solution. If you must use something, dissolve a tiny bit of beeswax on a damp rag and polish with that.

Yes, more or less. Both are a 23 inch rim. Take the second number, multiply by 2, subtract from the first number. Thats your rim size.

Regulators of that period are almost infinitely adjustable and rebuildable. There is really no way at that mileage it could be worn out. With the engine off and battery disconnected, you could try dragging strips of printer paper soaked in brake kleen through the points. I have not heard a single good report on modern replacements. It's far more likely that the brushes in the generator are gummed up and not sliding freely in their holders and/or the commutator is dirty.

It is time to get out the wiring diagram..... When I was a kid, I had a 53 Chevy that used the third pin on the flasher as a GROUND for the dash indicators. To be clear, there was a connection from each front signal to each dash indicator, but the ground of the dash indicators were not grounded to the dash as you would expect. They were connected together and to the third flasher pin. Whats up with that? Probably some kind of bad bulb detection. I don't know. It's not normal. If that is what you have, you may need to pop the third terminal out of the flasher socket and ground it instead (ground the wire terminal, not the flasher pin). You may find that the dash indicators are backwards after you do that. You might have to switch the sockets in their holes in the dash.

Clean it up REALLY GOOD, drychem is abrasive..... The carb wont run over because it isn't feeding fuel. That is a float or float valve problem. It works like a toilet and fills to a pre-determined level and then shuts off. If the fuel never got used, the float valve would just not let any more in. Float could be bad. Shake it and see if theres fuel inside (should not be). Dunk it in hot water and look for a stream of bubbles. There shouldn't be any. Get a new one if it's bad. They are pretty difficult to repair. The float valve could be bad. If you have a good float, set the level and drop according to the manual, and it still runs over there is a problem with the valve. The settings are in the manual, and also in the sheet that comes with the carb kit. Thee float valve probably has a phenolic gasket or washer sealing it to the body. Could it be split or missing? The needles do wear out. The rubber ones can have the tip split from age or ethanol. The steel ones barely worked in the first place. Another less likely possibility is that the fuel pressure is just too high, and fuel is blowing the needle open. It often happens with electric pumps when someone doesn't look close enough and picks a pump that has more pressure than the original mechanical one. I have also heard of defective mechanical pumps with too much pressure, but it doesn't happen much.

If you find a problem with the cap, also be sure to ohm-test your wires, or at the very least the one on the cylinder that was bad, even if it runs OK. Tripower?! Well... thats an interesting wrinkle. I suppose the closest barrel might not be feeding fuel. My money is still on a secondary ignition problem.

It is directly under the carburetor. It is the round bore the air-fuel goes through. On some of them at least it is a piece of steel tubing, exhaust tubing more or less. It is not cast iron. There is exhaust from the heat riser on the outside of the tubing. This probably doesn't apply to 2 barrels. I have not seen a bad 2 barrel one, and so cannot tell. Those may be the expected cast iron. The six did not get a 2 barrel until the last year of production. I do not recall when the eight went 2 barrel.

With the plugs out, turn the engine over, clockwise only, until it is at TDC on the timing marks. Look at the rotor. #1 is either at the tip or the tail. There are only 2 possibilities. If you have it wrong it will intermittently backfire through the carb, and afterfire through the exhaust, will not start or run. Alternatively, if you put your thumb over the #1 plug hole as you are bring it up to TDC with a wrench, and it blows coming up, you KNOW it is on the firing stroke, and you can just put the #1wire at the tip of the rotor. Follow around the cap in the firing order to put the rest of the wiring on. Go the same direction the distributor turns.

I'm thinking look at the distributor cap under a really bright light.

Are there any vacuum ports on the intake runner that leads to the dead cylinder? Plug and try again if so. I agree it is most likely the distributor cap, cracked or carbon tracked.

The piece of equipment sitting on the car is a Hallicrafters S-39 general coverage HF receiver. I do not recognize the thing on the ground. Maybe 2-1/2 and/or 5 meter rig? What is the car?

Agreed, but his question stands. He didn't have a bracket before. Logic says it mounts somewhere close to the heater core, or at least in the air stream, but where did Buick put that bracket and how does it attach?

White Post is adamant about that. I have never heard it from Apple, but I probably didn't ask. Even if it's true, there are plenty of other places to get a cylinder sleeved. My guess is some guys who sleeve don't want to spend hours on the phone hand-holding when they could be sleeving cylinders. DOT5 is extremely hard to bleed. Just pouring more in the reservoir makes bubbles, and they can stay there for hours. Some guys who don't understand why it won't bleed probably assume the cylinder is bad and lash out at the rebuilder. That's all idle speculation on my part so don't put too much stock in it. I am pro DOT5, but only if the entire system is new and clean. I dread bleeding it.

Buick's tooling did go to GMC. Allegedly there are GMCs out there with almost-Buick engines. It does bring up more questions than it answers. There was a thread here as well as on the HAMB about an unidentified Pontiac-like car that turned out to be a 1932 or 1933 General Motors Cab made by GMC. The interesting part is that the document that finally identified the car, a brochure, listed at least 6 GMC engines (cab, bus, truck) in wildly differing sizes, so couldn't have been all Buicks. IIRC they were all OHV designs. In reality, GMC used a lot of Oldsmobile flathead sixes, and occasionally Pontiac flathead sixes. If GMC had the Buick OHV tooling, as well as a complete line of OHV engines covering every possible displacement range in 1933-34, why were they using a bunch of Oldsmobile flathead sixes by 1935-38? The also used the Pontiac (single head) flathead 6 in 1938 1/2 ton GMC trucks, and allegedly used the Chevrolet OHV 6 in some application or another. I believe I have heard of them using the Pontiac split head six at some point too. Maybe @Tinindian would know about that? The split head six was used in Pontiacs in the late 20s and early 30s, so falls right in the era when GMC claimed to have a whole line of OHV engines and wouldn't have needed it. The GMC OHV straight six we all know came out in 1939 IIRC, and is downright modern compared to the Chevrolet Stovebolt sixes it resembles at first glance. It seems extremely unlikely to me that this one could be based on the old Buick six. Does anyone know? Maybe they just recycled some tooling for the new design? There was also a large cube big truck OHV six a little later. It didn't appear until sometime in the 40s. Neither existed in 1932-33. Back to the General Motors Cab. Later there was another thread in these forums about a second 1932 or 1933 cab, this one complete and restored. The owner knew about the other one. Apparently it had been a parts car for the restoration. IIRC this cab had an OHV engine. It was probably the old Buick six. Confused yet? I am.

They need everything hooked up to shift IIRC. The m6 is a great transmission. I'm going out on a limb and assuming thats what you have. There are scads of them still working today that have never had an overhaul.

I don't like to send anything out either, but wiper motors are incredibly frustrating things to rebuild. Gaskets for some types can be found on ebay. Kits might need to be NOS/NORS? Often there is more wear in one spot (probably the middle) that makes them leak, lack power, etc. and then always stop in the same spot. There can also be warpage in the bodies. They are probably made of zinc. Ugh. IMHO send it out. The main competition for Ficken was Kent Jaquith (Clean Sweep). He got excellent reviews. What happened to Clean Sweep is a bit confusing.... From the following thread: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/320304-trying-to-get-in-touch-with-keith-jaquith/ Dec 29, 2018 by stvaughn "His cell phone is not taking calls and he hasn’t responded to email. Is he still around? Need wiper motor rebuilt." Dec 30, 2018 by hellerc " I last spoke w/Keith in June of this year. His nephew had taken over the rebuild business and then it became"Clean Sweep Wiper Service by MD" in Redmond, OR Contact them at cleansweepwipers@gmail.com 541-410-5671." I think he means Kent. January 13, 2019 by hellerc "I just received a flyer with new information on Clean Sweep Wiper Motors. Now run by Melissa Klein it is at 3395 NW Elm Ave, Redmond, OR 97756 541-410-5671 cleansweepwipers@gmail.com" In August 2019, I had my 36 Pontiac wiper motor rebuilt by Melissa Klein. Works great as near as I can tell. I haven't been in a lot of rain yet. Turnaround was fast. I'm happy. Then, over on the VCCA forums, this thread appeared: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/443325/wiper-motor.html May 27, 2020 by roara Here’s the repair guy info: guy I use: Kent Jaquith 2633 SW Obsidian Ave, No. 15 Redmond, OR 97756 Phone # 5419234319 He advertises in the G&D from time to time; does good work. Rory (G&D is the VCCA club magazine) June 8, 2020 by honk1e Hello Just a update on my '37 chev wiper motor. I contacted Kent Jaquith in Oregon and sent him my motor. He fixed it and returned it to me in less than 1 week. Super nice guy. I am totally happy with his work and cost. If you need wiper motor work, countact Kent. You won't be disappointed. 1-541-923-4319 honk1e So I guess Kent Jaquith is back in the game. Looks like you may have several possibilities.

I like the black one. I wouldn't change a thing about this.

Water?!!!! No. Don't do that.

True enough (and good advice)... but he has some real basic problem where the points are not grounding the coil.....

Well, the coil doesn't know they are closed then. Should be zero on the (-) side with the points closed. The points short that terminal to ground. Take that piece of paper Frank DuVal suggested, soak it in brake kleen or carb cleaner, and drag it between the closed points. This should clean off any grease or contamination. Scrutinize the wire down from the (-) on the coil all the way to the distributor, points closed (-6.31 you measured above). Look for breaks. The voltage should be 0 with the points closed. Check it at the terminal on the points themselves. If its 0 there but -6.31 above (with points closed) you have a broken wire somewhere between the coil and the points. If it is -6.31 at the points (with points closed) the distributor is not grounded. If the distributor has a breaker (points mounting) plate inside that moves with vacuum, there will be another wire inside from the breaker plate to the case. If the vacuum turns the whole distributor, it probably wont have or need that wire.

Yes. I believe they are discontinued. I have a friend who intended to buy them, but snoozed..... I would like to be proven wrong. If you do find a source for them please post back here.

Hi Greg, That isn't the one I am looking for (notice the 2 mounting screws), but thank you for the kind offer.