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About SJF1948

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  1. Thanks for the info Tank, I have started doing a teardown/inventory/status/ of my brakes. As you may have figured, I have not put my car on the road yet. Rear Brakes.... looks like a total rebuild. Drums are definitely over the resurface limit, linings completely worn (2 1/4" wide), cylinders (1" bores) haven't seen liquid in them in a while! So a complete rear overhaul is in the works. The fronts on the other hand are in good condition. The cylinders are fairly new (11/8" bores), new linings (2 1/4" wide), ball bearings, new hoses, steel lines are plugged, will probably need to be replaced. My questions at this point are: Since I will be buying new rear drums, would it be worth the money to locate a set of finned drums that would fit, keeping the 2 1/4" wide linings? Any advantage to this? Would it be worth the money to upgrade to Roadmaster front brakes with 2 1/2" wide linings? I am sure it's more than simply putting wider linings and Roadmaster drums. Speaking of drums..... would a replacement be all cast iron or the composite drums I now have. By worth the money, I mean would there be an increase in braking performance in these upgrades to justify the added expense? I definitely will upgrade to roller bearings if possible. I know the Scare Bird kit includes these. As I was going through the brakes, I realized there are no automatic adjusters. These would be on my list to add if possible. I had a couple of VWs, not a fan of having to adjust brakes every 1000 miles or so!!!!! If I stay with the drum/drum set up, I will probably upgrade to a dual MC I do agree that the advantage disc have over drums is their ability to handle multiple hard stops if needed, with much less fade. I will probably never tow anything, but a road trip to the Smokies or the Ozarks may be in the plans. As this project continues, I'm sure I'll have at least one or two more questions.....
  2. When I bought my Buick almost two years ago, I had one thing in mind for this car. Keep it as much stock as I could, both in appearance and design, AND make it safe, reliable, comfortable, and fun to drive. I want to be able to get in it, push the accelerator to the floor and have it start as designed. I want to be able to cruise on down the road like folks did back in the day. I expect to change the oil more frequently, do a more frequent and thorough check of fluids and filters than we've grown accustomed to with today's cars. This to me is part of the challenge and attraction to restoring and driving a 66 year old classic. If I am to enjoy driving even on the shortest road trip, (here in the South it tends to get warm, add 95-100% humidity to 95 degree temps, well, you get the picture), A/C is a must. 4/60 is not like it was when I was growing up. Nobody mentioned Heat Indexes back then, I guess we didn't know how hot it was!!!! And most importantly, safety. I want to be able to stop as efficiently and safely as I can. Yeah I know, a lot of miles were put on cars back in the day, and most of them stopped when needed. I've driven my share of manual drum brakes, but I've come to appreciate the reliability and control of power disc brakes. There are just too many inattentive, distracted drivers on the roads today. So power disc brakes (front for now) is high on the list. I only wish someone would devise a stand alone (no computer required) ABS for the classics. And just so you don't think I'm a lost cause, I'm not totally committed to the conversion, just gathering information. Guess I should have said I am considering converting...... All this being said, I do respect your opinion on a properly set up stock manual brake system, and I would definitely be interested in hearing your recommendations. Great link by the way.
  3. I am converting my 53 Super to Power assisted front wheel disc and looking for recommendations. Not interested in the factory PB system, but I am considering an under floor booster/pedal set up such as the universal kit supplied by Speedway Motors. For the brakes, I'm also considering the conversion kit supplied by ScareBird. I like the idea of using off the shelf components. There is the possibility that the under dash swing pedal set up with firewall mounted booster may be a better choice???? Watcha think?
  4. That's what I suspected, great to get it from the expert!! I did reach out to Russ at Centerville to see what he has in stock for the '56 "upgrade", thanks 2carb40, so now I wait. I'm liking my Buick more every day!!!! Thanks y'all
  5. Looks like a NOS cam would be best if one can be found. And it would appear that having mine repaired/reground will add time and cost to my rebuild project. I'm leaning now towards the '56 set up. Before I go that route can you tell me any differences between my '53 components and the '56, mainly the overall effective length of the lifters and pushrods. My '53 pushrods are 8 3/8". Have no idea what length a '56 rod would be. I've seen several comments about lifter heights requiring a shorter pushrod. By lifter height I mean the length from the base of the lifter to the pushrod seat. Also I am planning on using my existing rockers. I am comparing the cutaway diagrams of the two engines on Hometown Buick's Engine Descriptions. Two major differences in the two.... Piston shape and combustion chamber configurations. My '53 has a domed top piston and combustion chambers to match. The '56 is a more conventional flat top piston with what appears to be a smaller combustion chamber. Another difference is the valve lengths, 4.346" for the '53, 4.704" for the '56. My head gaskets will be .015" according to the specs for a DynaFlow engine. Forgive the long post, but my main concern is valve to piston interference.
  6. Looking for some advice/info from the experts. I'm rebuilding my '53 322 and here is the background. This car has 64,000 miles on the odometer. Had two stuck lifters and one thing led to another, ended up pulling the engine for a detailed inspection and rebuild. An inspection of the cam revealed #2 Exhaust lobe worn down .028". All other lobes were OK. Interesting thing is, #2 Exhaust was not one of the stuck lifters. Also, all pushrods and rockers are OK. I am now looking for a replacement cam and there are several out there. All claim to be "New, Manufactured to OEM specs" for my '53 322 V8. I want to keep the stock cam configuration. I have read most of the articles on building the 322 and there are many interesting details about this engine. My questions are: Does anyone have the specs on the stock cam.... duration, lift, etc? I have the Shop Manual, but that info is not listed. What years are compatible with my '53 as far as the cam? My Compatibility Manual says '53 and only '53. However all of the cams listed as a replacement also say they fit '53, thru '56 322's. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good replacement cam? Other than using Zinc additives, no synthetic oil during the break-in, what else should I be aware of?
  7. I am looking for a set of hood hinge springs for my '53 Super, or a recommendation for an interchange spring.
  8. I spent Thursday picking up my registration pack, 10 minutes to actually walk up to the desk, get the pack and be on my way. Then off to the Swap Meet. I have two comments, too many non-auto related vendors (hair ribbons, phone cases, trinkets, etc. But I guess that helps pay the bills) and there didn't seem to be as many true swap meet type vendors as I've seen in years past. Friday was spent in Ocean Springs and as usual I was not disappointed. This is always a great venue with three main streets dedicated to cruiser parking. Great food, great cruising circuit as well. I did see more Buicks this year, the majority being later years and models. Seemed to be a lot of Rivieras '65 and newer with a scattering of Gran Nationals, Specials, and an Electra here and there. I did see a few older Specials and Roadmasters. My favorite was an original '52 Super. I was unable to locate the owner but it had Florida Plates. See attached photos. But all things must come to an end, had to leave with enough time to turn in my 2019 Registration Form and get back to BR to finish packing for our Cruise out of New Orleans in the morning.
  9. ssmock, Sorry for the late update, I will be at CTC 2018, unfortunately the '53 will not make the trip, still working on the engine rebuild. However, we can still hook up somewhere along the Coast and grab a poboy. Most of the week is up in the air, but I will be at the Swap Meet on Thursday, and in Ocean Springs on Friday for sure. Email me at, I'll still be looking for the Buicks that will be there. Have a safe trip, see ya there.
  10. RiKi5156B, To repair a broken wiper cable, I removed the radio and glove box. There is more room under the dash than I thought would be. Not quite enough room for a Vintage Air Gen ll, but the Mini may be an option. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions. Does the Mini cool your 40 Sedan? Vintage Air says it's good for smaller coupes and trucks, etc. When you did the trial fit in your 53, did the evaporator go all the way up into the dash and clear the wiper pulleys and cable routing, or would it have to hang a little below the dash? I also removed the defroster core just to see how much room I would have, it would appear that I am going to have to cut the top of the dash to install aftermarket defroster ducts? Either that or see if I can adapt the factory dash duct to the new A/C defrost outlet.
  11. Thanks for the replies and suggestions, after much thought, the cracks do not appear to be in a high stress area. If I'm not mistaken the port is the exhaust crossover between heads. Once the heat riser opens there should be less exhaust flow through the crossover. I have no idea if the heat riser was stuck or not, it was moving freely when I pulled the exhaust manifolds. I'm considering drilling the ends of the cracks, cleaning the cracks, notching the cracks and filling the cracks with JB Weld. Never used the stuff before but the reviews I've seen of the original product look good. The key to a successful repair is stop the cracks from growing and make sure everything is clean. Other than these PITA cracks, the heads are in very good condition. Valves and valve seats are are also in very good condition. One thing I noticed though is there are no stem seals used.... I have seen the seals are available but my concern is the lack of room to install seals with the dual springs used. Any thoughts or comments. As a side note, I decided to pull the engine and do a thorough inspection and cleaning, I'm this far into it and my original goal is/was to make this car a reliable cruising driver. I'll let y'all know how it all turns out. Cruisin' the Coast 2018 may be another spectator event..... As another side note, I forgot how easy it is to pull an engine out of a classic!!!!! Also I am located in Baton Rouge.
  12. I pulled the heads off of my 322 to address two stuck valves. As it turned out it was a good move, one of the head gaskets was close to failing at a water port. In the process of disassembly and cleaning of the heads I also discovered two cracks in the exhaust crossover port on the right head! One crack goes from the machined surface through to the outside of the casting. The crack appears to be an old one as the gasket has a matching mark on it. This is my first Buick so I'm not familiar with any defects if any with these engines. Any thoughts, comments, possible repairs that could be made. I can't imagine there will be many good used heads available if it's trashed. For what it's worth, this is a 53, 62,000 miles, appears to be original, no rebuilds or previous repairs.
  13. Good debate for sure, Thanks for all the comments. It would appear that the majority of those who offered a preference went with Diamond Back..... Which was my initial choice as well. Back in the day I ran what I could afford on my '56 Bel Air...... mostly recaps!!!!! Never had any problems but most of my driving then was local, to school, to work, not a lot of Interstate driving..... now that I think about it, not a lot of interstates! My only bad experience was in 1971 with a new set of BFG Radials on my '64 Valiant, I -70 between Denver and KC, Tread Separated, put spare on and limped to the next exit, found one of the other three ready to self destruct!!!!! These tires were less than a year old, probably less than 2,000 miles, BFG graciously pro-rated them, I'm hoping Diamond Back offers a choice of tires to be White Walled!!!
  14. What say ye.... Coker or Diamond Back Classics???? Preferences, experiences, etc. Leaning toward Radials.