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About SJF1948

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  1. Thanks guys for the suggestions, keep it simple, make it functional.
  2. The only difference with my set-up is a 2 1/8" rubber (neoprene) sleeve that will connect the fill pipe to the tank nozzle. At that point, I'll have to see if the fill pipe needs any bracing. Thanks for the photo, nice to see how the pipe is made into the tank.
  3. Hi guys, I am getting around to installing a new fuel tank in my '53 Super. The Tank, Inc. unit with filler pipe, was included when I bought the car. Problem is the pipe support sheet metal was not included, and I'm assuming there is support sheet metal required. Basically what I have is an open area between the fuel door and the tank. The body manual does show a "box" but no info and very little detail. The fender baffle behind the tire is present, and there is plenty of road mud and stuff coating the area. Can anyone provide photos of what I may be missing and possibly a source of these miss
  4. Thanks for the info Tank, I have started doing a teardown/inventory/status/ of my brakes. As you may have figured, I have not put my car on the road yet. Rear Brakes.... looks like a total rebuild. Drums are definitely over the resurface limit, linings completely worn (2 1/4" wide), cylinders (1" bores) haven't seen liquid in them in a while! So a complete rear overhaul is in the works. The fronts on the other hand are in good condition. The cylinders are fairly new (11/8" bores), new linings (2 1/4" wide), ball bearings, new hoses, steel lines are plugged, will probably need t
  5. When I bought my Buick almost two years ago, I had one thing in mind for this car. Keep it as much stock as I could, both in appearance and design, AND make it safe, reliable, comfortable, and fun to drive. I want to be able to get in it, push the accelerator to the floor and have it start as designed. I want to be able to cruise on down the road like folks did back in the day. I expect to change the oil more frequently, do a more frequent and thorough check of fluids and filters than we've grown accustomed to with today's cars. This to me is part of the challenge and attraction to
  6. I am converting my 53 Super to Power assisted front wheel disc and looking for recommendations. Not interested in the factory PB system, but I am considering an under floor booster/pedal set up such as the universal kit supplied by Speedway Motors. For the brakes, I'm also considering the conversion kit supplied by ScareBird. I like the idea of using off the shelf components. There is the possibility that the under dash swing pedal set up with firewall mounted booster may be a better choice???? Watcha think?
  7. That's what I suspected, great to get it from the expert!! I did reach out to Russ at Centerville to see what he has in stock for the '56 "upgrade", thanks 2carb40, so now I wait. I'm liking my Buick more every day!!!! Thanks y'all
  8. Looks like a NOS cam would be best if one can be found. And it would appear that having mine repaired/reground will add time and cost to my rebuild project. I'm leaning now towards the '56 set up. Before I go that route can you tell me any differences between my '53 components and the '56, mainly the overall effective length of the lifters and pushrods. My '53 pushrods are 8 3/8". Have no idea what length a '56 rod would be. I've seen several comments about lifter heights requiring a shorter pushrod. By lifter height I mean the length from the base of the lifter to the pushrod seat. Also I am
  9. Looking for some advice/info from the experts. I'm rebuilding my '53 322 and here is the background. This car has 64,000 miles on the odometer. Had two stuck lifters and one thing led to another, ended up pulling the engine for a detailed inspection and rebuild. An inspection of the cam revealed #2 Exhaust lobe worn down .028". All other lobes were OK. Interesting thing is, #2 Exhaust was not one of the stuck lifters. Also, all pushrods and rockers are OK. I am now looking for a replacement cam and there are several out there. All claim to be "New, Manufactured to OEM specs" for my '53 3
  10. I am looking for a set of hood hinge springs for my '53 Super, or a recommendation for an interchange spring.
  11. I spent Thursday picking up my registration pack, 10 minutes to actually walk up to the desk, get the pack and be on my way. Then off to the Swap Meet. I have two comments, too many non-auto related vendors (hair ribbons, phone cases, trinkets, etc. But I guess that helps pay the bills) and there didn't seem to be as many true swap meet type vendors as I've seen in years past. Friday was spent in Ocean Springs and as usual I was not disappointed. This is always a great venue with three main streets dedicated to cruiser parking. Great food, great cruising circuit as well. I did see more B
  12. ssmock, Sorry for the late update, I will be at CTC 2018, unfortunately the '53 will not make the trip, still working on the engine rebuild. However, we can still hook up somewhere along the Coast and grab a poboy. Most of the week is up in the air, but I will be at the Swap Meet on Thursday, and in Ocean Springs on Friday for sure. Email me at sjfountain3@att.net, I'll still be looking for the Buicks that will be there. Have a safe trip, see ya there.
  13. RiKi5156B, To repair a broken wiper cable, I removed the radio and glove box. There is more room under the dash than I thought would be. Not quite enough room for a Vintage Air Gen ll, but the Mini may be an option. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions. Does the Mini cool your 40 Sedan? Vintage Air says it's good for smaller coupes and trucks, etc. When you did the trial fit in your 53, did the evaporator go all the way up into the dash and clear the wiper pulleys and cable routing, or would it have to hang a little below the dash? I also removed the defroster
  14. Thanks for the replies and suggestions, after much thought, the cracks do not appear to be in a high stress area. If I'm not mistaken the port is the exhaust crossover between heads. Once the heat riser opens there should be less exhaust flow through the crossover. I have no idea if the heat riser was stuck or not, it was moving freely when I pulled the exhaust manifolds. I'm considering drilling the ends of the cracks, cleaning the cracks, notching the cracks and filling the cracks with JB Weld. Never used the stuff before but the reviews I've seen of the original product look good. The key t
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