Jump to content

SJF1948

Members
  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SJF1948's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

30

Reputation

  1. Good point, I did test the area with a hose and it did slow down the water a lot. That being said, the door seals are in bad shape. The plan is to start at the top around the vent window and work my way down. I have replaced the vent window frame to windshield pillar seal which also helped. The previous owner used a lot of flexible sealer and over time this stuff has oozed out and created quite a mess. The saga continues!
  2. Great photos Steve. This shows what I was suspecting and dreading! I did read in the shop manual that "if only the upper end of the sealing strip in the area above the upper hinge is damaged, repairs may be made with a patch strip which is available for service". These photos would explain the reason for that! I do have an inspection camera so maybe I'll be able to see what condition the lower half of the seal is in. It will be interesting to see if the Buick dealer has the "patch strip" in stock!!!!😬. Now I'm glad I kept the inner tubes that were in my old tires. Updates to follow.
  3. I was able to slow down the leak by about 90%, not enough to keep from wetting my new padding and carpet. My seals are probably OEM, not very flexible, and have taken a "set" over the years. Working from the top I was able to loosen the seal from the cowl and door, and clean the mounting surfaces as far as I could reach. There is a retainer screw on the top next to the hood bumper and a body plug/pin about 8 to 10 inches down the front edge of the seal. According to the shop manual, there is a retainer screw attaching the bottom of the seal to the cowl. There was also a separate small flap of thin rubber (2"X4") located at the top of the seal. Not sure the small flap is original, or an attempt by a previous owner to keep the water out. I reattached the top half of the seal using contact cement and cemented the small flap so that it acts as cap for the seal. All of this was done with the hood up, and opening and closing the door as necessary to access the top half of the seal, using wood slats to apply pressure to the glue points. The overlapping Super door/fender doesn't provide easy access, especially to the lower half of the seal! I'll try to post some photos later today. As a side note, it dawned on me that the small flap had the same thickness and flexibility as an innertube! (Unlimited possibilities for a suitable repair). I'm hoping someone on this site has experience changing these seals on a car that still has the front fenders installed. The shop manual is almost "All ya gotta do is......"
  4. I have removed the seats, carpets, door panels, etc. and repaired front floor pans ('53 Super, 56R). Before I put it all back together, I am chasing and repairing leaks around the doors. It appears that water is getting past the door hinge pillars, and there is a "Front Body Hinge Pillar Sealing Strip" that may be the culprit! These sealing strips are available, and there is a procedure to replace them in the shop manual. I am curious if anyone has changed these in their restorations, and if so does the shop manual leave out any important steps..... such as, "Step 1, Remove front fender"?
  5. Great photos and recommendations, thanks. Looks like the best option is fabricating new braces. I do have a lead on an "old/early 50's" Buick in a salvage yard nearby, as soon as the ground dries up from the recent rains I'll check it out. I'll post photos if there's anything salvageable.
  6. Good point, being in the middle of the Louisiana petrochemical production area, there are numerous fab shops and foundries nearby. Before I retired, I worked closely with several of these shops. And you're right, they love a challenge..... might be time to break out my old business card file (Rolodex). Thanks for the suggestion.
  7. Hi all, I completed replacement of both front floor pans on my 53 Super due to rust. Pans are welded in and welds sealed with 3M Body Sealer. Now the next step is to reinstall both front pillar to floor braces. Should be a simple reinstall except for the condition of the braces. Both are rusted through at the bends and don't appear to up to bracing much. I'm sure they serve a purpose or the Buick Engineers would not have had them installed. They appear to be factory stampings and I would imagine very hard to find laying around on a shelf somewhere, so I'm thinking I'll be looking for a donor car (56R, 56C, 76C, 76R, 76X) or someone to fabricate a set. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Thanks guys for the suggestions, keep it simple, make it functional.
  9. The only difference with my set-up is a 2 1/8" rubber (neoprene) sleeve that will connect the fill pipe to the tank nozzle. At that point, I'll have to see if the fill pipe needs any bracing. Thanks for the photo, nice to see how the pipe is made into the tank.
  10. Hi guys, I am getting around to installing a new fuel tank in my '53 Super. The Tank, Inc. unit with filler pipe, was included when I bought the car. Problem is the pipe support sheet metal was not included, and I'm assuming there is support sheet metal required. Basically what I have is an open area between the fuel door and the tank. The body manual does show a "box" but no info and very little detail. The fender baffle behind the tire is present, and there is plenty of road mud and stuff coating the area. Can anyone provide photos of what I may be missing and possibly a source of these missing parts. Also, would this tank require a separate vent or will a modern pressure/vacuum gas cap do the trick? Thanks,
  11. Thanks for the info Tank, I have started doing a teardown/inventory/status/ of my brakes. As you may have figured, I have not put my car on the road yet. Rear Brakes.... looks like a total rebuild. Drums are definitely over the resurface limit, linings completely worn (2 1/4" wide), cylinders (1" bores) haven't seen liquid in them in a while! So a complete rear overhaul is in the works. The fronts on the other hand are in good condition. The cylinders are fairly new (11/8" bores), new linings (2 1/4" wide), ball bearings, new hoses, steel lines are plugged, will probably need to be replaced. My questions at this point are: Since I will be buying new rear drums, would it be worth the money to locate a set of finned drums that would fit, keeping the 2 1/4" wide linings? Any advantage to this? Would it be worth the money to upgrade to Roadmaster front brakes with 2 1/2" wide linings? I am sure it's more than simply putting wider linings and Roadmaster drums. Speaking of drums..... would a replacement be all cast iron or the composite drums I now have. By worth the money, I mean would there be an increase in braking performance in these upgrades to justify the added expense? I definitely will upgrade to roller bearings if possible. I know the Scare Bird kit includes these. As I was going through the brakes, I realized there are no automatic adjusters. These would be on my list to add if possible. I had a couple of VWs, not a fan of having to adjust brakes every 1000 miles or so!!!!! If I stay with the drum/drum set up, I will probably upgrade to a dual MC I do agree that the advantage disc have over drums is their ability to handle multiple hard stops if needed, with much less fade. I will probably never tow anything, but a road trip to the Smokies or the Ozarks may be in the plans. As this project continues, I'm sure I'll have at least one or two more questions.....
  12. When I bought my Buick almost two years ago, I had one thing in mind for this car. Keep it as much stock as I could, both in appearance and design, AND make it safe, reliable, comfortable, and fun to drive. I want to be able to get in it, push the accelerator to the floor and have it start as designed. I want to be able to cruise on down the road like folks did back in the day. I expect to change the oil more frequently, do a more frequent and thorough check of fluids and filters than we've grown accustomed to with today's cars. This to me is part of the challenge and attraction to restoring and driving a 66 year old classic. If I am to enjoy driving even on the shortest road trip, (here in the South it tends to get warm, add 95-100% humidity to 95 degree temps, well, you get the picture), A/C is a must. 4/60 is not like it was when I was growing up. Nobody mentioned Heat Indexes back then, I guess we didn't know how hot it was!!!! And most importantly, safety. I want to be able to stop as efficiently and safely as I can. Yeah I know, a lot of miles were put on cars back in the day, and most of them stopped when needed. I've driven my share of manual drum brakes, but I've come to appreciate the reliability and control of power disc brakes. There are just too many inattentive, distracted drivers on the roads today. So power disc brakes (front for now) is high on the list. I only wish someone would devise a stand alone (no computer required) ABS for the classics. And just so you don't think I'm a lost cause, I'm not totally committed to the conversion, just gathering information. Guess I should have said I am considering converting...... All this being said, I do respect your opinion on a properly set up stock manual brake system, and I would definitely be interested in hearing your recommendations. Great link by the way.
  13. I am converting my 53 Super to Power assisted front wheel disc and looking for recommendations. Not interested in the factory PB system, but I am considering an under floor booster/pedal set up such as the universal kit supplied by Speedway Motors. For the brakes, I'm also considering the conversion kit supplied by ScareBird. I like the idea of using off the shelf components. There is the possibility that the under dash swing pedal set up with firewall mounted booster may be a better choice???? Watcha think?
×
×
  • Create New...