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Justin Pease

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  1. Alright, so I tried to use my timing light to measure the idle only to realize it does not have a tach on it... so that didn't work. I don't really believe that this is the issue since the vehicle shifts up just fine, and it's only struggling to shift down. I've linked a short video of the vehicle running so you can decide if the idle sounds high to you or not. It was relatively warm (but probably not 100% operating temp) at the time of the video. I do show the temp gauge so you can see for yourself exactly how warm it is. Additionally, I have made a miniscule amount of
  2. High idle speed could be possible, though the transmission shifts up okay (though it does take about 3-4 seconds between letting my foot off and hearing it shift as the idle comes down). I felt like if I adjusted the idle down much further, the car might stall when you come to a stop in gear, which is why I haven't touched it at all. I'll try to record a video of the car running (both in drive and not) so you can hear her run and tell me if it sounds super high to you... I'll also try to measure my idle today with my timing light.
  3. Antique cars galore! These guys have been my steady source of obscure parts and odd bits and pieces for years now. They have everything from run-of-the-mill junkyard stuff to cars from the 80s, 70s, 60s, 50s, 40s, and even 30s (though the 30s cars are usually just piles of rusting metal by now, with few salvageable parts). They're located at 231 Craftsbury Rd., Hardwick, VT and they can be reached at 802.472.5058 M-F from 0700-1600hrs and Saturday 0800 to 1200hrs. Additionally, one can search some of their parts catalog here. Additionally, photos of Gates' offerings and relics can
  4. Hey Keith, I have a pretty good understanding on how the trans works thanks to your videos (though I was under the impression that the trans and engine shared oil... realizing now that they do not, but the trans does use engine oil, just not shared engine oil). I'm curious if the governor points causing the trans not to downshift can be possible in this case... It was my understanding that the governor is responsible for both upshifts and downshifts, as the oil pressure cannot flow without the displacement of the ball valve. The governor hits the sweet spot (35), cuts power to the
  5. Hey all! I really appreciate all the support on this thread - you guys truly come through every time! Somehow I didn't get subscribed to this thread automagically which means I just read all of the replies here moments ago rather than as they came in. I ended up doing some more diagnosis and bleeding and found that my pedal was decently firm at the end of the bleed job and stayed as such, but within 2 miles of driving, the brakes faded to an unreasonable level and the car came to quite the leisurely stop. Pumping the brakes still caused a better effect, but I couldn't b
  6. Hello again! A brief hiatus from the forums as I spent hours and hours underneath the car every evening after work. Things that are new, for those that are probably not that interested: -New fuel tank -New fuel lines (this was a nightmare. I had to empty the tank twice, and I earned chemical burns on both of my arms from 93 non-ethanol. Ow.) -New distributor cap -Windshield chip filled (thanks to the guys at the local glass shop, and they thought the car was so cool they did it for free!) -And a lot of driving! Put about 500 miles on the car since my last post,
  7. Thanks for all this info - a little update, the trans is working beautifully (turns out I didn't have enough speed which is why it was only upshifting sometimes - give it 30-35mph and it shifts happily into 4th). I've been driving the car on the road for about 2 weeks now, and for one of those weeks it was my daily. It starts every time, runs beautifully, and I found the source of my evil oil leak (I joke that this car is like a feral cat - sometimes it dislikes new people, you must approach it slowly, and it marks its territory). The transmission will not downshift, though, from
  8. Update - got the car moving a little bit faster and I believe the transmission may have shifted, but I wasn't sure. Certainly sounded like it did, but by that point I was going about 35-40 and being that the car currently only has rear brakes, no plates, no insurance, and my turn was rapidly approaching, I didn't keep it going in what might've been fourth for more than about 5 seconds. I'll try again tomorrow evening perhaps and see if I can't get it to shift again.
  9. Just a final update to everyone following this topic - following all the help I got here, and following some carb help and a small fire, I started the car for the first time a few days ago. It runs very smooth, without any big knocks or bumps. There is some scoring in the walls of cylinders 3 and 4, so it burns a large amount of oil - the engine will eventually have to come out to repair that damage. But it runs well, sounds good, and the transmission engages and moves the car! There is a new topic up regarding some questions/issues I'm having with the transmission - you can find that below if
  10. Good morning all! Happy day-after-the-Fourth-of-July. I got my 52 Custom up and running with loads of help from you guys, and it now starts right up, warms up, idles, and goes into gear. I did change the engine oil but didn't pull the oil pan or open the trans cover yet. I've driven it about a little bit, just basically across the street and in the parking lot where I work on it, but I noticed that the transmission does not shift from 3rd to 4th in Drive/high gear. The car speeds up to about 20-25, and sounds like it's ready to shift, so I pick my foot up off the gas, but it doesn't shift for
  11. Hi again! Just a little update. I inspected the carburetor again and determined that little dry-chem fire extinguisher had actually entered the carb. I cleaned up the outside a bit and then applied some actual brain power as to why it was overflowing - turns out, the float was adjusted fine, and it was missing the float needle. I installed that (it was in very good shape, like it was replaced at one point) and the car runs smoothly, idles, and goes into gear. I'll be opening another topic on some transmission questions I have (I do this so that it's easier for anyone else down the
  12. Update - was fiddling around with it this afternoon and the carb caught fire. It was definitely user error, I knew gas was dripping, but didn't think the car had run nearly enough for the gas to spontaneously combust. But it did, and it was not a small fire. The carb was engulfed. I grabbed a fire extinguisher and put the fire out, but I'm now thinking between the amount of dry chem inside the carb and the likely damage the seals sustained from the heat, I'll have to do a full rebuild if not a replacement. I will inspect and clean the carb further tomorrow... Hopefully I don't have to replace
  13. @Bloo you're a lifesaver. I followed your "thumb over #1 plug hole" trick and was able to get everything the way it should be, and after much turning over and argument, it fired up and ran very smoothly. Of course, I've now encountered another problem, but it ran, and sounded good, so I am pleased. I'm now having an issue with the carburetor I believe, but I'm going to start a new thread to track that one. Thanks for everyone's help in this thread!! My next issue:
  14. Hi all! Thanks again to the many continued replies to my other threads regarding this car and it's progress. It's now running following a lot of help from other members, and I'm now in the process of diagnosing some carb issues. I have a Carter carb, I believe it's a 629s (or maybe an E7L3/E7L4, not totally sure), that I believe isn't actually providing fuel as it should. The car ran well for about 1 minute, before it ran out of gas (my fuel can emptied, it isn't running off the tank yet). I refilled my can and pumped the carb, turned the engine over to fill the bowl, etc. with no
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