Bloo

Aren't those floats supposed to be cork? If so, my guess is balsa has a different buoyancy, alters the adjustment. Don't worry about water in the exhaust too much. It is a byproduct of burning gasoline. In fact, if it were possible to burn gasoline perfectly the exhaust would be only carbon dioxide and water.

As early as that is, it is a third brush generator with a cutout. There is no voltage regulator. The current regulation is set with the position of the third brush. It is a fairly limited system, and does not back down when the battery is full, it attempts to charge at the current it is set at no matter what. It is limited in this goal by the fact that it is only capable of maximum charge at one particular engine speed. Slower or faster and it does less. These were set back in the day by checking the battery with a hydrometer after a few days driving, and turning the charge rate up or down as necessary. Driving habits mattered a lot. Night driving mattered a lot. It more or less amounted to setting things up so the battery would be full when the owner shut the car off for the day. A car normally used for commuting with short trips and a bit of headlight use would definitely need the rate reset for a long highway trip in the daytime, or it would boil the battery. Some 30s Chevys have a resistor in the generator field circuit that gets shorted out when you turn the headlights on, turning up the charge rate to offset the headlight draw. That helps a lot. There will also be a "half click" on the headlight switch that allows the driver to turn on the higher charge rate without the lights if he knows his battery is low. It is very useful if you know it's there. It may not be there on a 34 Standard, but you could check.

Never cap a bowl vent on a carburetor. Use 30R9 rubber hose and fuel injection style clamps for any parts of the fuel system that will remain rubber. Metal lines should have a swelled spot or a barb so that a clamped hose cannot possibly fall off. Beyond that, I'm not sure.

Good to know. I have a suspicion that in 16 inch, the molds that currently exist are postwar and are a little fatter than prewar tires.

Thats a bit confusing. If you had to ground the field to get 7.49, you may still have a problem. If you just revved it up to fast idle and got 7.49 it sounds normal to me.

A friend of mine who roadtrips a lot runs them in 6.50-16, and swears by them. He says they last well (for bias tires) and have more rubber on the road than the other brands of 6.50-16 you can currently buy. I wouldn't bet on them being any taller than other current offerings. Universal, Coker, Lucas etc. publish the diameter of the tires, so that can be looked up. Bad fit in sidemounts (too wide) is something you are likely to run into with most currently available tires.

IP skin sheet?

That one has been on ebay for literally years.

If you haven't already done so, send a PM to KornKurt here on the forum. He might have it or know who to ask.

Probably! Graham did have a four speed, but as far as I know it was long gone by 1939. It wasn't that helpful, according to some owners I spoke with at a Graham convention a few years ago. It was direct in fourth, and low was a stump puller normally not meant to be used. Graham had Borg Warner overdrive fairly early in the game. I know it was optional in 1937. That is undoubtedly what is in the 39. Nice car!

The important thing is to arrange the pcv inlet so that the air mixes with the air/fuel coming from the idle jet, and don"t have too much flow for the engine size.

You may find that booster full of brake fluid. It often causes failures. Even if not, the only part that can cause a pedal to go to the floor without a leak is the master cylinder. It can leak back into it's own reservoir. Other causes of no pedal could be a system full of air, brakes way out of adjustment, blown wheel cylinder, hole in a brake hose or a steel line, etc. Not the booster though. All it does is help push. I would just send it out to Power Brake (Portland) and send the master cylinder to Brake and Equipment (Minneapolis). I would not be thrilled about the wait at Power Brake either, but you would would get quality rebuilds of parts you know fit and work because they came off of your car. You could easily screw around for longer than 6 weeks with parts that don't quite fit. Best of luck whichever way you go.

The dry cells would have been the big telephone cells. No reason D cells wouldn't work. Being smaller they might not last as long.

OUCH Well, your rear housing will probably be salvageable. I believe (going by the book because I haven't seen them side by side) that that rear housing is the only thing you would need to make a 36 trans bolt into a 35. My books don't go new enough to decode those engine numbers, maybe someone around here has newer books. I believe 39 was the last with an Indian cast in the block. The basic engine design stayed the same through 54, though there were many small changes.

The diagram JACK M posted earlier has the answers, although it isn't very clear about it. Here it is again. There are three circuits, Here is what they are and what they do. 1) From the positive battery cable, through the relay contacts, to the terminal on the solenoid that goes to the solenoid coil (not the ignition terminal). This is a big wire. It is to supply current to engage the solenoid when the relay is "ON". 2) From "key hot" ignition power (gas gauge in JACK M''s diagram) to the relay coil, out the other side of the relay coil, through the normally closed set of contacts on the kickdown switch, through the shift rail switch, through the switch contacts in the governor, to ground. For the overdrive solenoid to engage, all the contacts in this circuit need to be closed. So, you are not floored, and the normally closed contacts in the kickdown switch are closed. You are not in reverse, so the shift rail switch is closed. Only the contacts in the governor are open. When you get going fast enough, the contacts in the governor close, kicking the overdrive relay on, The solenoid then engages. You can now have overdrive. When the solenoid engages, it does one more thing. There is a set of switch contacts in the back of the overdrive solenoid from the ignition terminal to ground. The contacts close, grounding the terminal. But, those contacts are part of circuit 3, and we haven't talked about circuit 3 yet. 3) CIrcuit 3 goes from the points connection at the distributor (or the negative side of the coil), through the normally open set of contacts in the kickdown switch, through the contacts in the back of the solenoid to ground. You are in overdrive. You are not floored. The contacts in the back of the overdrive solenoid are closed, but the normally open contacts in the kickdown switch are open. Circuit 3 does nothing for the moment. You floor it, opening the normally closed contacts of circuit 2 in the kickdown switch. This drops power to the relay coil, opening the relay points, and that takes power away from the solenoid. You would be out of overdrive now EXCEPT.... There is sideways torque from the planetary gears in the overdrive holding the solenoid so it cannot release. When you floored it, you also closed the normally open contacts of circuit 3 in the kickdown switch. Since you are in overdrive, and the solenoid is in, the contacts in the back of the overdrive solenoid are also closed. So, circuit 3 just shorted the distributor points to ground and killed the ignition. When the ignition dies, it takes the torque off of the overdrive gears, releasing the solenoid that was hung up by the torque. When the solenoid slaps back, it opens the contacts in the back of the solenoid, opening circuit 3 back up, and the ignition comes back on. It all happens so fast you can't tell what happened, except that you are out of overdrive, until you let the gas off. When you let the gas off, the normally closed contacts in the kickdown switch close again, closing circuit 2 and you can go back into overdrive.

Sactowog: As far as I know overdrive kickdown switches have two sets of contacts, and I do not understand how the switch in the pictures could work as a substitute.

The typical worm type clamps found in the parts stores do not have a round cross section, and are begging for a leak because they don't push on the hose in anything even close to a perfect circle. NEVER use them on fuel. Those US-style worm clamps were pretty stout in the old days, but I remember in the 1990s they got so cheap and soft you couldn't even tighten them without stripping. If they survived tightening there were instances where, after about a week they would go "TINK!" and the tab would just fall out of the worm. They are a little better now but lets face it, it's a bad design because the clamping surface isn't round. They also extrude the rubber through the worm slots. Almost anything else is better. Look for a round clamping surface. A little more width is better within reason. Wire clamps tend to dig into the hose more than I would like, but at least they are round.

Sounds like a master cylinder problem or possibly a leak, not a booster problem. If it's a booster problem, IMHO just yard it out of there and send it out to Power Brake in Portland, OR for rebuild. The turnaround is fairly quick, and it will be done right, No BS. I have had 2 boosters done there in the last 3 years or so. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

That was a local landmark in Seattle for years.

Thats what I do. I flush out with new fluid about every 2 years if DOT3 or DOT3. I suck it through the bleeders with a vacuum bleeder until it runs clean. I gathered keiser31 was going in deeper than that.

Yeah, sounds like valve trouble.

The Ford EEC-IV doesn't care. It is going to show you the faults it finds right now. It does have memory, but those are the third step in the process, after you have fixed any KOEO or KOER codes. By then, the car is probably fixed and you should clear it and see if anything comes back. Pulling the codes is even easier than I remembered. Look here: https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/how-to-retrieve-trouble-codes-on-your-eec-iv-system-without-using-a-code-scanner.659319/ I guess a manual might be nice, but the code list is probably online. For any deep troubleshooting the Ford manuals sucked. The useful one came from Target Training Systems. Good luck finding that now....

Assuming the fuel makes it try to run, check the fuses. That may not be true. EEC-IV Fords don't work like you are probably thinking. The diagnostics are all built in to the computer (not the scan tool). There are 3 kinds of codes, 1) KOEO (key off engine off) 2) KOER (key off engine running) and 3) memory. There are 2 tests, KOEO and KOER. Yeah, you wont have memory codes and you cant do the KOER test, but that isn't how things are done in the EEC-IV world anyway. You always start with a KOEO test. Then, you do KOER after you fix anything you found wrong during the KOEO test. It is possible to do it without a scan tool using a couple of test lights and maybe a resistor or a paper clip or something. I have a scan tool for these since the 80s and I have forgotten how to do it without. You'll have to look it up. There's no magic though. You need a test light. Then all you need to do is figure out how to initiate the test, and then if it finds anything obviously wrong with the FI system it will flash out the code on the light. That is literally all the scan tool does on an EEC-IV Ford. It initiates the test and counts the flashes. If the computer is dead and wont come to life and run the test, then it probably has a blown fuse or a broken ground wire back to the powertrain or something. One final thought, at the battery cable there was a third? wire with a big beige plastic bullet connector. Thats the power for the EEC-IV. Sometimes battery acid got down there and fouled it.

Yes. However if it were open circuit you still probably wouldn't get enough spark to run. The ohmmeter should kick a little if the condenser is good, but then you would have to short it out before you tested it again, or it wouldn't kick. I agree, if there's any doubt buy a new one.

What we are interested in keeping, of course, are the pictures (and maybe the price).