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metalmoto

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About metalmoto

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  • Birthday 04/23/1965

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  1. John, I was thinking that also. The "spare" carb, with the larger venturi has some side to side movement in the throttle shaft. Is that bad? I already have both carbs disassembled, and have a rebuild kit. I'll keep soaking it, and hopefully it will start moving. Thanks
  2. The carbs are identical, from what I have learned. Except perhaps the casting molds. The venturi is made of a phenolic resin, that was inserted for the particular engine, it was made for. I'd like to keep it original, but the throttle shaft wont budge. I'm going to attempt to remove the expansion pin, and see if if I can get it move. Just was trying to avoid doing that. Maybe if real gentle, I wont damage the casing. Perhaps a little heat from a propane torch will loosen it. I will try that first. I haven't given up on it yet. My
  3. Hi again, Trying to get my 65 Ford Falcon Futura running again. Garaged for 35 years, and Thanks to everyone, I've finally spark. First off, trying to get her running on a tight budget. And like to keep it as original as possible. OK, this is what I have, and figured out so far, with the help of the net. Original carburetor on the car, at least I assume it is. No ID tag, Stamp near throttle shows a "0". I measured the venturi with a caliper, measures 1 inch exactly. The car has a 170 ci engine. Seems like it's a carb from a 144 ci
  4. Hi, I have spark now☺️. It was a bad condenser. Only the spark is yellow/white. Supposed to be blue. I read someplace else, it's probably a weak ignition coil. Got a new one. And it's sitting right next to me, begging to be installed. Probably should get a new set of wires too. Cap and rotor look good. So, i'll use them for now. I just ordered a set of points files. What the heck... My problems now, are with the carburetor rebuild. I guess, I should start a new thread on this. As I have lots of questions.
  5. Hi Graham, Mine is a 2 door hardtop also. Automatic and power steering. The Futura is just the deluxe model, with a bit more chrome. Not sure what else is different, perhaps is came standard with more options? Otherwise, it's completely original, nothing had been modified or changed in anyway. The car dealer it was originally purchased from was called "Rudy Valentino Ford". I still have the licence plate frame with that name on it. And did some research, and that was the car dealers real name! I even have the original owners manual, with all that info typed
  6. Hi Bloo, I found this very interesting, the way you described the metal transfer on the points. I would imagine you would need to look at the points under a microscope or at least a magnifying glass to see this. Anyway, I do have an ESR meter. I'd be curious to compare the readings of the old condenser to a new one. When I get a chance, I will let you know what readings I find... I think I'm good to go now, on the right path anyway. You have helped me immensely! Thank You. I'm sure I could use a new set of wires too. Oh, I have a tach/dwell meter and
  7. OK, I will try that. I will let you know the results tomorrow. Very late here now. Must close and get back. TY
  8. Hi, I disconnected the "kill switch" wire to start with. I want to get rid of it completely anyway. With the ignition on i get 7 volts at the positive terminal of the coil. With the ignition off, the negative terminal is grounded. I did what you said, and put a piece of paper between the points, and I got 12 volts on both the positive and negative terminals of the coil. All is good. As I mentioned to Frank, as I cranked the engine with a remote starter switch. I noticed heavy sparking between the points. So I believe the condenser is shot. I read this someplace before
  9. Frank, OK I seem to be getting somewhere now. I am getting 7 volts on the positive side of the coil. Negative side of the coil is grounded. With the distributor cap off, cranking the engine with a remote start switch. I noticed a big spark when the points opened and closed. So I take that, as the condenser in there is shot? Seems totally open, no reading on my ohmmeter either way it's connected. I have a few NOS condensers I can test, hopefully I have a good one here. I know I'll need to purchase new wires, as one is a little melted at the spark plug end
  10. Thank You very much. It's starting to make sense to me know, as far as my father's kill switch. As kid, I had a minibike with a lawnmower engine. With the metal thing that shorted out the spark plug, to kill the engine. Got a hell of a shock, if I wasn't careful, the spark plug didn't have a rubber boot on it. Ouch! Yes, I will disconnect the wire to the kill switch. It's not hidden very well anyway. I ran a piece of emery cloth through the points already, didn't help anyway. The trunk of the car was full of spare parts, including new ignition par
  11. Hello Again, 65 Falcon Futura 170 ci engine. Completely original, including the breaker points ignition. Was running 35 years ago before being garaged since. Yes, I know I have a lot of work ahead of me:-) First, I'm trying to figure out how my father wired up a kill switch under the dashboard. He's 85 years old now, and doesn't remember which way the switch is supposed to be, to start the car. I've tried both positions, and still no spark. So it's probably a bad coil or something else. I'd like to remove the kill switch anyway, and below is
  12. Thanks everyone! I replaced the rusted out battery tray. Bought a brand new battery, correct for the car. And replaced both battery cables, and post clamps, and it looks great. I am starting a new thread, trying to figure out how my father wired a kill switch, and figure out why I don't have spark. If you like to follow along, and help me get her running again.
  13. Can someone send me a picture of the correct battery placement in a 65 Ford Falcon? I just finished replacing the battery tray. The original was half gone, rusted away from battery acid, Since I have it looking nice now. I'm going to replace the battery cables also. What I want to see, is where the Positive and Negative posts on the battery are facing. Trying to keep it looking original as possible. Thanks!
  14. Hi Everyone, Me and the Falcon are still here... I haven't done much to the car, except took out what was left of the battery tray. Half of it is completely gone, and there some holes in the metal below it. I cleaned up all the rust, and painted it, to keep it from getting any worse. My father gave me a new battery tray, but I want to reinforce the metal below it, before I mount the new one. I decided, before I do anything more. I wanted the car titled in my name. My older brother said he had the title, but it took him forever to find it...
  15. The Heat tube is already broken off at the manifold. I'm going to try a pull the broken piece out with screw. If that won't work. I guess I'll have drill it out very carefully?
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