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metalmoto

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About metalmoto

  • Birthday 04/23/1965

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  1. It's not like I haven't been trying to find a good rebuild-able carb. People are asking way too much for one, in unseen/unknown condition. Others want to rebuild mine for an outrageous amount of money. I'm no fool. Yes, I put off working on the car for a while. I had to buy another car for me to drive to work, and gave my car to my wife to drive. I need to keep the daily drivers going, as they are more important than my Falcon, right now... And it's not like anyone here, can help me out, and offer to sell me a old carb for a reasonable price...
  2. Hello All, It's been a long time. Between Covid and everything else... Soaked the carb for months, and it's still seized! My next option is using the top half of a spare carb, and the bottom half of the original carb. Maybe I'll get lucky, and it will run good. I will get back, when I get it back together and installed. Dave
  3. John, I was thinking that also. The "spare" carb, with the larger venturi has some side to side movement in the throttle shaft. Is that bad? I already have both carbs disassembled, and have a rebuild kit. I'll keep soaking it, and hopefully it will start moving. Thanks
  4. The carbs are identical, from what I have learned. Except perhaps the casting molds. The venturi is made of a phenolic resin, that was inserted for the particular engine, it was made for. I'd like to keep it original, but the throttle shaft wont budge. I'm going to attempt to remove the expansion pin, and see if if I can get it move. Just was trying to avoid doing that. Maybe if real gentle, I wont damage the casing. Perhaps a little heat from a propane torch will loosen it. I will try that first. I haven't given up on it yet. My last resort will be buying a Chinese copy of the carb for $150. Just to get it running. Then I can get the original rebuilt later. Kind of stuck at this point😫 I will keep you informed of my progress.
  5. Hi again, Trying to get my 65 Ford Falcon Futura running again. Garaged for 35 years, and Thanks to everyone, I've finally spark. First off, trying to get her running on a tight budget. And like to keep it as original as possible. OK, this is what I have, and figured out so far, with the help of the net. Original carburetor on the car, at least I assume it is. No ID tag, Stamp near throttle shows a "0". I measured the venturi with a caliper, measures 1 inch exactly. The car has a 170 ci engine. Seems like it's a carb from a 144 ci engine. But it was running fine, before it was parked, 35 years ago. It's disassembled, and I got it pretty clean using Simple Green and a ultrasonic cleaner. Only problem is the throttle shaft is seized. I tried soaking it for a few days in PB blaster, but it barely moves. Secondly, I found an identical carburetor in the trunk. The throttle shaft moves freely, but has some side to side slop. This carb is a little beat up on the upper half. And don't think it's going to be any good. Although the bottom part is fine, and in better condition. However, stamp near throttle linkage is stamped 2, 2. One number is faint, so it looks like it was stamped twice, to identify it. Indeed, the venturi measures 1.2 inches, So it must be for a 200 ci engine. Not sure if using this larger venturi on my 170 ci engine will work? As I was thinking of using the top half of the original carb, with the better bottom half, where the throttle shaft is not seized. But since the venturi size is different, it probably will give me problems. It appears, the venturi can be removed, and perhaps swapped with the smaller one. But it's seems risky, as the phenolic material is probably brittle, and I'm afraid to take the chance, of damaging it. My only other option, at this point, is to disassemble the throttle shaft, and try to break it loose. This also seems risky. Don't want to break the delicate pot metal, it appears to be made out of. This where I'm at right now. Other than spending $$$ on another rebuilt carb, what do you think I should do? The car structure is sound, still completely original, electrical all works, needs some bodywork. Basically want to get it running first, before moving onto brakes etc. Engine is very good, rebuilt about 1,000 miles before being parked. Believe me, I checked it out good, or I wouldn't be this far into it. I know the history of it, it's been in my family since 1978. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions, on rebuilding the carburetor. Thanks in advance! Dave
  6. Hi, I have spark now☺️. It was a bad condenser. Only the spark is yellow/white. Supposed to be blue. I read someplace else, it's probably a weak ignition coil. Got a new one. And it's sitting right next to me, begging to be installed. Probably should get a new set of wires too. Cap and rotor look good. So, i'll use them for now. I just ordered a set of points files. What the heck... My problems now, are with the carburetor rebuild. I guess, I should start a new thread on this. As I have lots of questions. Look for "Autolite 1100 rebuild", if you want to follow my progress? Thank You everyone, for your help on this! Sincerely, M
  7. Hi Graham, Mine is a 2 door hardtop also. Automatic and power steering. The Futura is just the deluxe model, with a bit more chrome. Not sure what else is different, perhaps is came standard with more options? Otherwise, it's completely original, nothing had been modified or changed in anyway. The car dealer it was originally purchased from was called "Rudy Valentino Ford". I still have the licence plate frame with that name on it. And did some research, and that was the car dealers real name! I even have the original owners manual, with all that info typed into the inside front cover of it. Hope to get it running and driving again someday... Mine is maroon with black interior.
  8. Hi Bloo, I found this very interesting, the way you described the metal transfer on the points. I would imagine you would need to look at the points under a microscope or at least a magnifying glass to see this. Anyway, I do have an ESR meter. I'd be curious to compare the readings of the old condenser to a new one. When I get a chance, I will let you know what readings I find... I think I'm good to go now, on the right path anyway. You have helped me immensely! Thank You. I'm sure I could use a new set of wires too. Oh, I have a tach/dwell meter and timing light, to help get it set right later. If I really wanted too, I could buy a PerTronix ignition system, and get rid of the points etc. But my father drove the car daily for 5 years, with no problems. And if something did go wrong, it could easily be fixed on the side of the road, with the striker from a book of matches, and a screwdriver. When something fails with an electronic ignition, your screwed, and will be walking home! Besides, I'm not planning use the car as a daily driver. It only has front seat lap seat belts, and steel dashboard. A collapsible steering column wasn't a safety feature back then. When I think about all the miles we drove, and never even used the seat-belts. It was so different back then. Once, driving to the Poconos, my dad had a 1969 Chevy Nova. The tie rod broke while driving 65 mph on the NE extension of the PA turnpike. The car veered into the dirt embankment. I still remember seeing coins, change from my mother's purse, sliding up the windshield, and raining down on us. The car rolled over 3 times, before coming to a stop. Nobody wore seat-belts. We all survived with only minor scratches and bruises.... The car was totaled. I digress... The Falcon is a project. Something to do in my spare time. When I'm not fixing my Jeep or my wife's car. Some day I "will" have it running and driving again. It will be named "Peggy" after my late mother Margaret, which everyone called her. She was a great woman, and raised me and older brother to be very successful in life. She loved driving the Falcon... I will update you on my progress. Attached is a picture of the car, the day I brought it home, after sitting 35 years. Thank You, and everyone else, for your help on this.
  9. OK, I will try that. I will let you know the results tomorrow. Very late here now. Must close and get back. TY
  10. Hi, I disconnected the "kill switch" wire to start with. I want to get rid of it completely anyway. With the ignition on i get 7 volts at the positive terminal of the coil. With the ignition off, the negative terminal is grounded. I did what you said, and put a piece of paper between the points, and I got 12 volts on both the positive and negative terminals of the coil. All is good. As I mentioned to Frank, as I cranked the engine with a remote starter switch. I noticed heavy sparking between the points. So I believe the condenser is shot. I read this someplace before, the condenser is to quench that spark, to save the points from pitting, and wearing out the contacts quickly. Need to replace that condenser, I will look though my box of NOS ignition parts, and hopefully I have a good one. I know how to static text them with an ohmmeter. I also have a capacitor tester, but I don't know what the value should be. I imagine, since the points are sparking, there is not not going to be a good spark at the plugs? So, I'll fix that first. Others, are talking about starting the car. I am not nearly ready for that yet. The carburetor throttle shaft is seized, and it's been removed from the car. I plan on rebuilding it, but until I can get the shaft to move easily, it a moot point. I plan to disassemble the carb, and try soaking the bottom half in PB blaster or Kroil, and hopefully get it unstuck, before rebuilding it. This should be fun! So many little parts and check balls etc. It going to be like a puzzle, putting it back together. The car is very sentimental to me, as my late mother loved driving it. I was a 14 years old when my dad bought the car. He got it for $500 in 1979, from the original owner. It wasn't running right because someone had the plug wires mixed up. My father drove me and my family to the Pocono mountains every weekend for 5 years in it. A 110 mile drive each way! And it never let us down. My mother drove it to go shopping, while my father was at work. So many great memories... I was really surprised the car was not totally rusted out, after sitting garaged for 35 years. Seems he undercoated it at one time. The car was parked in a garage, when my parents divorced. My father said it reminded him too much of mom, so it sat for 35 years. I got married, got a house of my own, with a garage, and finally had the chance to get the car. It was not easy, getting the car titled in my name, in Pennsylvania, especially since my mother was long since gone. And she had signed the title without getting it notarized. I was told I would need a court order, it's a very long story... It took me a year, to get the car titled in my name. PA laws are very strict on this. It used to be a signed title was all you needed. But the laws changed, and it was quite a battle, to finally get to own the car legally. I was 19 years old, the last time I was in the car, when it was running, I am 55 years old now, and now it's mine! I plan to get it running, and restore it as best as I can, register it and an antique, and drive my family to get ice cream on Sunday afternoons etc. I had hoped to get it running sooner, and take my 85 year old father for a ride it it once again. But it doesn't seem possible, at this point. It still needs a lot of work, before it will be road worthy, unfortunately. My father knows I will get it running and driving someday, and he's just happy that I will take good care of it. I digress...
  11. Frank, OK I seem to be getting somewhere now. I am getting 7 volts on the positive side of the coil. Negative side of the coil is grounded. With the distributor cap off, cranking the engine with a remote start switch. I noticed a big spark when the points opened and closed. So I take that, as the condenser in there is shot? Seems totally open, no reading on my ohmmeter either way it's connected. I have a few NOS condensers I can test, hopefully I have a good one here. I know I'll need to purchase new wires, as one is a little melted at the spark plug end.
  12. Thank You very much. It's starting to make sense to me know, as far as my father's kill switch. As kid, I had a minibike with a lawnmower engine. With the metal thing that shorted out the spark plug, to kill the engine. Got a hell of a shock, if I wasn't careful, the spark plug didn't have a rubber boot on it. Ouch! Yes, I will disconnect the wire to the kill switch. It's not hidden very well anyway. I ran a piece of emery cloth through the points already, didn't help anyway. The trunk of the car was full of spare parts, including new ignition parts purchased in the early 1980's. Including new points and condensers. Do you think the condensers are still good, if new in package? I guess I try testing them with an ohmmeter? Wow the prices were so cheap back then! It's almost 2:30 AM here right now. I work 2nd shift, so normally up late anyway. I need to go to bed now. But I will get back late tomorrow night with the voltage readings I find on the coil. Also, I'm far from having it running yet. Carburetor throttle shaft is seized. Plan to disassemble it and soak the bottom half in PB blaster, to see if I get it to free up, Already got a rebuild kit. Also, bought a new gas tank. Drained the old gas and the smell was awful. It took weeks for the smell to go away in my garage. I plan to run it off a small gallon tank, until I can either clean or replace the fuel lines. The car was parked in a garage 35 years ago. So, I'm taking my time, making sure all is good, before starting it. Nice thing is that all the electrical still works, even the original AM radio. My first posting has the whole story about the car, which you might find very interesting. I will get back ASAP. And thanks so much for your help with this car, which means so much to me.
  13. Hello Again, 65 Falcon Futura 170 ci engine. Completely original, including the breaker points ignition. Was running 35 years ago before being garaged since. Yes, I know I have a lot of work ahead of me:-) First, I'm trying to figure out how my father wired up a kill switch under the dashboard. He's 85 years old now, and doesn't remember which way the switch is supposed to be, to start the car. I've tried both positions, and still no spark. So it's probably a bad coil or something else. I'd like to remove the kill switch anyway, and below is a description of how he has it wired, which confuses me. First, there is a red wire connected to the battery terminal of the coil, which goes into into the wiring harness. Also there's a condenser connected to that same terminal, and it's grounded to the engine. Now, on the other coil terminal, there's a black wire going to the distributor. Here's where it get interesting. He has another wire connected to it. It goes through the firewall, connects to one side of the kill switch. The other end of the kill switch is connected to a screw attached to the metal dashboard. Grounded I would assume. What is the purpose of doing it this way? I don't just want to disconnect this wire, thinking he might of removed a wire someplace else. And is using the dashboard as a ground instead? I studied electricity and electronics years ago, I can rewire a house, and used to repair consumer electronics, before they became cheaper to buy new, then fix the old ones. So, I'm well educated in that respect. And have a general idea how a points ignition system works. I just can't wrap my mind around what might of done, to wire in the kill switch. Maybe I'm getting old too old or something? I imagine one of the condensers "capacitors" are shorted, or the coil is bad. Causing the no spark condition. I plan to test them with a meter. But I want to eliminate the kill switch anyway. I'm sure after all these years the condensers are shot. But like capacitors, they usually don't short, there more than likely open. One of my hobbies is restoring antique radios, so I know they go bad with age. And usually need to be replaced. I just don't want to start disconnecting things, when I don't know the original reason, why it was wired this way. Sorry for the long explanation, I just don't want to make things worse, when there is a reason it's wired like this. Thanks in advance, and any help would be gladly be appreciated!
  14. Thanks everyone! I replaced the rusted out battery tray. Bought a brand new battery, correct for the car. And replaced both battery cables, and post clamps, and it looks great. I am starting a new thread, trying to figure out how my father wired a kill switch, and figure out why I don't have spark. If you like to follow along, and help me get her running again.
  15. Can someone send me a picture of the correct battery placement in a 65 Ford Falcon? I just finished replacing the battery tray. The original was half gone, rusted away from battery acid, Since I have it looking nice now. I'm going to replace the battery cables also. What I want to see, is where the Positive and Negative posts on the battery are facing. Trying to keep it looking original as possible. Thanks!
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