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About kookie1

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  • Birthday 01/10/1950

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  1. Thanks guys for chiming in. Actually I have the manual diagram and the Lubrication Chart which I've studied in-depth before starting this post. Neither told me what I was searching to find out. I was hoping a '37 owner with plenty of history would know. In my experience diagrams don't tend to be extremely accurate with the detail in line drawings since they're usually simplified to begin with. By examining both of these diagrams you can't tell where the 7" bend, at the end of one tailpipe section, is located. If that 7" bend is at the rear of the muffler it would be located
  2. Thanks for the pix John but another isn't necessary. I'll have to agree with you in that your tailpipe arrangement may not be original based on the position of the hanger but I could be wrong. If I put my new sections together like that the 7" bend would have to go into the muffler. I was hoping some others with a 37 would drop in with a yes or no. At least a consensus would eliminate the guesswork. With over 100 views of this tread, surely there are a few 37 owners here that know how their system is setup. I suppose you could say if it goes together at all then why does it matter and I
  3. Thanks John for chiming in but I think I could get it to fit in either position, short 7" long end bend into muffler first or long straight section. I just don't know the way it's supposed to go together like it did originally. Maybe my previous post was a bit too detailed and not very clear so I thought I better try again for a '37 Pontiac owner. They've probably replaced their system long ago and can't remember right off hand. If you take a quick peek under your rear bumper of a '37 Pontiac 6 or 8, is there a bend in the tailpipe about 7" from the bumper end? That would te
  4. If you look at this photo of the pictures I took long ago when I got this car it shows the tailpipe in a view from the front wheel. It's the only shot I took back then that shows what I wanted to know now to install the new one but doesn't help me much. It looks like the tailpipe was incorrectly installed. On the tailpipe section with the short bend near one end, is that the section the goes into the muffler or is it the straight portion of the other section that goes into the muffler? It looks to me, by the bend in the pix, that the short bend went into the muffler in this inst
  5. I hear ya, John, and what you say makes total sense to me. That must be the reason they raise one of the switch's posts. Paul
  6. #1 Well, as usual, I always learn things I didn't know from your posts. I didn't realize it was possible to run tubeless radials on riveted rims. I'm guessing it's a better handling ride than on the bias-ply, tubed Lesters I'm installing. Grandpa lived on a farm surrounded by dirt roads. Before I turned my rims into the powder coating shop I cleaned the rims of 70 years of mud and dirt. That was a chore. As I remember, and I could be wrong here, but I think I remember the rivets in the center well of the rim sat in a recess to be flush or slightly below the well surface. That may have
  7. Thanks Jd for chiming in. Yes, I think I remember reading that discussion long ago but gave up when they moved into after market fan alternatives. I'm trying to stay original as much as possible. I'll go back and read it again, thanks for the link. I'm not aware that the brake light switch has posts that rotate. All the ones I've seen of this style have anchored posts. But I suppose it's also possible if the wire's ring terminals loosens, the wires could rotate and do the same thing you were talking about as in shorting out. I really don't know either. Also I'm pl
  8. I have a few questions I'd like answered from someone more knowledgeable than me. I'm working on a '37 Pontiac 6 Touring Sedan, original 16" rims in good condition. I'm having them powder coated this week anyway. #1 Does anyone use or recommend the use of flaps on the original riveted rims to cover the rivet seats? I understand the purpose of flaps but wonder if anyone had any problems with the rivet seats and inner tubes? #2 I notice the other day the blades of my fan do not have the same twist. That seems strange to me. Is this normal? I can't fathom anyone
  9. Well, I haven't been back here for some time this summer. It's been so humid and hot up here in the north country that working in a non-insulated outbuilding has not been much fun. Consequently I haven't had a chance to work on my brake system problem for awhile. So to bring those who have taken their time to offer help up to date I'll try to keep it short. Yes, John, the brakes are done and all is well. Thanks for your input including your experience as well. Originally I couldn't understand why I could pump the brake pedal without it getting eventually stiff and hard to depr
  10. Thanks for the suggestions, Russ. I've always bleed from the farthest wheel cylinder first working back to the closest. Come to think of it I hadn't even given it a thought to do the front wheels first. My first thought was maybe I had honed the master cylinder too much but then ruled out that thought remembering how much I had to squeeze the rubber cup to get it in. I'll give a few of your suggestion a go when I get another bottle of brake fluid. Grampa's 37 Pontiac 6 has given me a few sleepless nights but with the help of fellow 'real' mechanics I may finally get this puppy
  11. Well ,JFranklin, I suspect my explanation wasn't very clear as to what I did. But no, I didn't fill the system from a wheel cylinder. I've never heard of, nor think it's possible, to fill a system from a wheel cylinder.
  12. I need a bit of help deciphering what I'm doing wrong with filling an empty system with brake fluid. I started filling the system with fluid at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master. It took quite some time, with the help of another pumping the brake with me opening and closing the bleeder, until I noticed a leak at the front junction 'T'. Ok, had to tighten a few connections to fix that. But when fluid started appearing in the bleeder hose the pumping stopped moving fluid. The system started with new brake lines, new hoses, honed master cylinder, honed wheel cylinders and I've
  13. Thanks Jon for the suggestions to bending a new screen. I'll remember those when it comes time. They're a good idea. Great info on the short history of carb kits as well. I learned a thing or two. Makes sense when you consider all the little parts in a carburetor and all the different carbs. I'll keep you in mind for the future! Thanks for taking the time to answer!
  14. Well, I bought this Walker carb kit a couple of years ago off Ebay before I knew much about what I was getting into and knowing I would eventually get to the carburetor anyway. Since I'm done overhauled the carb and found this kit missing small washers, gauges, screens, etc., I'm not very impressed with it but it's too late now. I just didn't know any better back then. Such is life, I guess. Just a quick observation here Jon, but do you mean, "If you bought your kit from us" that the kits you sell don't include this screen either? Just trying to figure out what is actually supposed
  15. Thanks for responding Bloo, I'll check with McMaster-Carr. That's really fine for a mesh screen in the pump tube above the ball check. It'll be trick curving the screen as well as bending a curved, 90° corner. Should be fun!! Thanks for the help...can always rely on Bloo!! Edit: Just went to McMaster-Carr and they have a ton of mesh screens. I have no idea what mesh size to order. Wish someone knew what size the mesh is in a carburetor! I suppose I could order a sample kit but that isn't inexpensive either. Do you think a carburetor kit sell
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