kookie1

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About kookie1

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  • Birthday 01/10/1950

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  1. Thanks for the suggestions, Russ. I've always bleed from the farthest wheel cylinder first working back to the closest. Come to think of it I hadn't even given it a thought to do the front wheels first. My first thought was maybe I had honed the master cylinder too much but then ruled out that thought remembering how much I had to squeeze the rubber cup to get it in. I'll give a few of your suggestion a go when I get another bottle of brake fluid. Grampa's 37 Pontiac 6 has given me a few sleepless nights but with the help of fellow 'real' mechanics I may finally get this puppy back on the road. Thanks again for taking your time to respond!
  2. Well ,JFranklin, I suspect my explanation wasn't very clear as to what I did. But no, I didn't fill the system from a wheel cylinder. I've never heard of, nor think it's possible, to fill a system from a wheel cylinder.
  3. I need a bit of help deciphering what I'm doing wrong with filling an empty system with brake fluid. I started filling the system with fluid at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master. It took quite some time, with the help of another pumping the brake with me opening and closing the bleeder, until I noticed a leak at the front junction 'T'. Ok, had to tighten a few connections to fix that. But when fluid started appearing in the bleeder hose the pumping stopped moving fluid. The system started with new brake lines, new hoses, honed master cylinder, honed wheel cylinders and I've double checked to make sure I had installed the new master cylinder kit in the correct order (it's so simple, only one cup to check is installed it the correct direction, a sixth grader to figure it out) but I can still pump the brake pedal and the fluid doesn't appear to move. All connections and bleeders are closed and I can still pump the brake pedal up and down. I've never filled an empty system before but I've bleed cars plenty of times and when the line is filled and you close the bleeder you can no longer depress the brake pedal. I assumed when each line is full I'd notice the strong resistance to pedal pressure. So what am I missing? I feel a bit stupid I can't determine the cause of the problem.
  4. Thanks Jon for the suggestions to bending a new screen. I'll remember those when it comes time. They're a good idea. Great info on the short history of carb kits as well. I learned a thing or two. Makes sense when you consider all the little parts in a carburetor and all the different carbs. I'll keep you in mind for the future! Thanks for taking the time to answer!
  5. Well, I bought this Walker carb kit a couple of years ago off Ebay before I knew much about what I was getting into and knowing I would eventually get to the carburetor anyway. Since I'm done overhauled the carb and found this kit missing small washers, gauges, screens, etc., I'm not very impressed with it but it's too late now. I just didn't know any better back then. Such is life, I guess. Just a quick observation here Jon, but do you mean, "If you bought your kit from us" that the kits you sell don't include this screen either? Just trying to figure out what is actually supposed to be in these carb kits. Thanks Bloo for taking those pix of your screen. I think I can use your closeup of the screen with the penny and calculate, fairly close, to what the actual screen mesh size is. That should eliminate the problem of trying to determinate what I should be looking for. Thanks again for the extra effort!
  6. Thanks for responding Bloo, I'll check with McMaster-Carr. That's really fine for a mesh screen in the pump tube above the ball check. It'll be trick curving the screen as well as bending a curved, 90° corner. Should be fun!! Thanks for the help...can always rely on Bloo!! Edit: Just went to McMaster-Carr and they have a ton of mesh screens. I have no idea what mesh size to order. Wish someone knew what size the mesh is in a carburetor! I suppose I could order a sample kit but that isn't inexpensive either. Do you think a carburetor kit seller would know the mesh size? Just a thought.
  7. I've overhauled my '46-'52 WA-1 carburetor with a carb kit. Everything went fine until assembling the Climatic Control choke housing. It looks like I'm missing what the Carter Service Manual calls the 'Piston Housing Strainer' at location 'J'. By looking at the carburetor screws it appears the carb has been worked on before so I'm wondering if that strainer is a fine mesh screen someone forgot to replace in the choke housing. I most likely can't purchase a replacement so I'll have to make my own. Does anyone know where I could acquire some super fine mesh screen? And how do you specify the 'finest' of the screen you want to purchase? Any help would be appreciated!
  8. Oh yah, John, I should have noticed the steering wheel in the first pix. That makes a ton of sense, duh! I should have been more observant.
  9. Looks nice Russ! Wish my block looked that clean. A quick question tho, what is that strap for that runs from #5 spark plug over the exhaust manifold, is pinned to the throttle linkage pin on the intake manifold and goes down to somewhere for some reason? Was that original? Don't think I've ever seen one like that before. And one other question, what did you soak the carb in to clean it up like that? I need to do that to mine one of these days.
  10. Hi Summershandy, Man, you've had some problems with that engine! After reading about peoples warping problems I went right out, back then, to check if mine were warped since I hadn't bothered to notice when I removed the manifolds. Thankfully they weren't. I'll use anti-seize also on the studs. I snapped two bolts that were rusted solid trying to remove the heat riser so I'm really into using anti-sieze where ever it looks useful. The brass screw in the heat riser housing that holds the counterweight spring support bracket (or whatever it's called) was also rusted in tight. Fortunately, it was brass and easy to drill out and re-thread with a tap. The broken bolts in the intake manifold were no fun to drill out and took quite a while to do trying not to ruin my manifold. Luckily all turned out well. Anyway, glad to hear you got your manifolds flat and level. That alone can solve a ton of future problems.
  11. Hi Russ, Thanks for taking the time to answer! You"re just the guy I was hoping would respond, one who's done it on his own car. You've done some serious work on that '53 and it's obvious you have some skills, machining your own studs. Looks great!! You answered my questions to a "T". The manifolds are going back on without any Copper sealant use and 25 to 28 ft.lbs of torque is what I'll use. And, as an added bonus, you unknowingly answered a question I had about those really hard to access manifold nuts. It was tricky to get a wrench on them and make even an 1/8 degree rotation at a time. I was wondering when I took them off how the heck I was going to get a torque wrench on them and to get an accurate reading as well. Thanks for the idea of a 1/2 universal socket! It'll make my time considerably easier!
  12. Thanks John and Bloo. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can. This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up. It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is. I guess I can live with that. As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians. Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.
  13. Hi Bloo, No, I didn't find a choke stove cover. I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck. I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image. I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me. It worked pretty well. I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over. That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses around the bolt holes that hold the cover in place. I'm pretty happy about the way it turned out. I had to use 5/16" bolts because I had to drill out the original 1/4" screws in the manifold that were totally rusted in place. As far as the torque question goes, yes, the manifolds are already flat and even, no warping visible. I've purchased grade 8, 1/8" thick washers as well. They happened to be zinc plated which acts as a lubricant also when figuring torque values. Are you aware of anyone using gasket sealant on the manifold gaskets before installation? Any problems doing that?
  14. I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original. I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts. I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening. If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs? The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used? And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the manifold gaskets before assembly? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  15. Hi Guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold choke stove cover, group #3602, for my 37 Pontiac 6. Anybody have one lying around for sale? A little rust never hurt anybody.