kookie1

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About kookie1

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  • Birthday 01/10/1950

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    1937 Pontiac Deluxe 6 Touring Sedan

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  1. Oh yah, John, I should have noticed the steering wheel in the first pix. That makes a ton of sense, duh! I should have been more observant.
  2. Looks nice Russ! Wish my block looked that clean. A quick question tho, what is that strap for that runs from #5 spark plug over the exhaust manifold, is pinned to the throttle linkage pin on the intake manifold and goes down to somewhere for some reason? Was that original? Don't think I've ever seen one like that before. And one other question, what did you soak the carb in to clean it up like that? I need to do that to mine one of these days.
  3. Hi Summershandy, Man, you've had some problems with that engine! After reading about peoples warping problems I went right out, back then, to check if mine were warped since I hadn't bothered to notice when I removed the manifolds. Thankfully they weren't. I'll use anti-seize also on the studs. I snapped two bolts that were rusted solid trying to remove the heat riser so I'm really into using anti-sieze where ever it looks useful. The brass screw in the heat riser housing that holds the counterweight spring support bracket (or whatever it's called) was also rusted in tight. Fortunately, it was brass and easy to drill out and re-thread with a tap. The broken bolts in the intake manifold were no fun to drill out and took quite a while to do trying not to ruin my manifold. Luckily all turned out well. Anyway, glad to hear you got your manifolds flat and level. That alone can solve a ton of future problems.
  4. Hi Russ, Thanks for taking the time to answer! You"re just the guy I was hoping would respond, one who's done it on his own car. You've done some serious work on that '53 and it's obvious you have some skills, machining your own studs. Looks great!! You answered my questions to a "T". The manifolds are going back on without any Copper sealant use and 25 to 28 ft.lbs of torque is what I'll use. And, as an added bonus, you unknowingly answered a question I had about those really hard to access manifold nuts. It was tricky to get a wrench on them and make even an 1/8 degree rotation at a time. I was wondering when I took them off how the heck I was going to get a torque wrench on them and to get an accurate reading as well. Thanks for the idea of a 1/2 universal socket! It'll make my time considerably easier!
  5. Thanks John and Bloo. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can. This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up. It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is. I guess I can live with that. As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians. Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.
  6. Hi Bloo, No, I didn't find a choke stove cover. I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck. I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image. I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me. It worked pretty well. I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over. That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses around the bolt holes that hold the cover in place. I'm pretty happy about the way it turned out. I had to use 5/16" bolts because I had to drill out the original 1/4" screws in the manifold that were totally rusted in place. As far as the torque question goes, yes, the manifolds are already flat and even, no warping visible. I've purchased grade 8, 1/8" thick washers as well. They happened to be zinc plated which acts as a lubricant also when figuring torque values. Are you aware of anyone using gasket sealant on the manifold gaskets before installation? Any problems doing that?
  7. I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original. I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts. I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening. If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs? The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used? And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the manifold gaskets before assembly? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  8. Hi Guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold choke stove cover, group #3602, for my 37 Pontiac 6. Anybody have one lying around for sale? A little rust never hurt anybody.
  9. Great Bloo, I'd be grateful if you'd do that! I have the CPA catalog but it's a no go there too. I'm not a Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac member either so I'd appreciate if you'd take the time to look! I think you're correct in that Pontiac used this same choke stove cover for many years. Thanks a bunch!
  10. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car. I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either. So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago. I check Ebay fairly often but nothing. So now I'm wondering who else I could contact. I''m running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Good pix Bloo, thanks. Gives me a good idea of the correct position. Looks like the deflector is positioned more forward to shield more of the float bowl on most of those pix. That corresponds to how the exploded diagram deflector is drawn too.
  12. Ok, thanks for the heads-up. I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home. My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into. My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it. There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit. I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold. Is that why they supply two carb. gaskets in the kits?
  13. Oh boy, thanks a bunch guys, those pix are better than I thought I'd ever get to see! It's exactly what I needed since I want to keep as close to the original look as I can. I'm an old, retired, shop teacher, emphasis on the 'old', so fabricating a copy shouldn't be too hard. I blocked all the holes in the manifolds, sand blasted both and painted them with high temp manifold paint. But I couldn't put them back on the car until I figured out what to do with this cover plate I didn't have. I original thought, from the drawing, that the furthest cover dimples or holes maybe rested on the further away bumps (about 14" apart) but now I can see, thanks John for the tape measure pix, how large the plate is and now figure those bumps are most likely remanent sprue holes from when they poured the cast iron to guarantee a full, complete casting. I do have another question. My grandfather's car didn't have a 3.326 deflector either but it did have two carb. gaskets in place. Guess I'll have to make another piece. I would assume the deflector went between the gaskets. Is that correct? Also is the bend in that plate at 90 degrees? I've views some web pix of that deflector, from the right side of the engine, that show the vertical part to be equally spaced on the left and right side of the carb. But in the above exploded diagram it appears to be made to mostly extend to the front of the engine? I don't think it's the viewing angle because of the oblique, exploded drawing or the different looking horizontal part on the right side of the carb hole. Which is the correct position for this deflector? Would you have any idea of the metal gauge of this piece? Any measurements of the vertical part, length and width? Thanks guys, you're the best!! Paul
  14. Hey Bloo, Yes, I grabbed that Early Times Chapter view also when the site was up. Viewing the drawing I couldn't tell if the two holes closest together, 4.5" apart, were the anchor holes for the plate or the furthest apart holes in the corners were the screw holes? Then I noticed the two raised bumps on the exhaust manifold that are further apart, passed the screws holes, at about 14" apart so then I wondered which holes were the screw holes? If the cover plate rests on the manifold's raised area around the screw holes I would guess the plate has a gap between it and the manifold. So with a gap, why would you need holes in the plate for air to pass into the cavity? Doesn't seem necessary to me or maybe the original plate sat against the manifold. Is your cover plate up against the manifold body? Thanks Bloo for looking for a pix!!
  15. I've searched the web and couldn't find any reproductions of a '37 Pontiac exhaust manifold cover only an exploded engine view drawing of it. The shop manual shows it as group #3602, part #497612. It appears to be just a sheet metal piece. My manifold doesn't have one so I guess I get to fabricate one myself. The drawing is only a line drawing but looks as if the edges of it are formed a bit, can't really tell from a line drawing. The base of the two screws on the manifold that hold this cover in place are raised just a bit off the surface of the manifold so I'm guessing there is an air space or gap of maybe 1/16" or so. Is that correct or do the edges of the cover plate rest against the manifold body? Sure wish I had a picture of an stock cover. Since you can't really remove one without removing the exhaust manifold first, does anyone have a picture of this cover, maybe when they overhauled their manifolds? I sure would appreciate a pix or possible able to talk to someone who made their own cover. Any help would be appreciated!