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kookie1

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Everything posted by kookie1

  1. If you look at this photo of the pictures I took long ago when I got this car it shows the tailpipe in a view from the front wheel. It's the only shot I took back then that shows what I wanted to know now to install the new one but doesn't help me much. It looks like the tailpipe was incorrectly installed. On the tailpipe section with the short bend near one end, is that the section the goes into the muffler or is it the straight portion of the other section that goes into the muffler? It looks to me, by the bend in the pix, that the short bend went into the muffler in this inst
  2. I hear ya, John, and what you say makes total sense to me. That must be the reason they raise one of the switch's posts. Paul
  3. #1 Well, as usual, I always learn things I didn't know from your posts. I didn't realize it was possible to run tubeless radials on riveted rims. I'm guessing it's a better handling ride than on the bias-ply, tubed Lesters I'm installing. Grandpa lived on a farm surrounded by dirt roads. Before I turned my rims into the powder coating shop I cleaned the rims of 70 years of mud and dirt. That was a chore. As I remember, and I could be wrong here, but I think I remember the rivets in the center well of the rim sat in a recess to be flush or slightly below the well surface. That may have
  4. Thanks Jd for chiming in. Yes, I think I remember reading that discussion long ago but gave up when they moved into after market fan alternatives. I'm trying to stay original as much as possible. I'll go back and read it again, thanks for the link. I'm not aware that the brake light switch has posts that rotate. All the ones I've seen of this style have anchored posts. But I suppose it's also possible if the wire's ring terminals loosens, the wires could rotate and do the same thing you were talking about as in shorting out. I really don't know either. Also I'm pl
  5. I have a few questions I'd like answered from someone more knowledgeable than me. I'm working on a '37 Pontiac 6 Touring Sedan, original 16" rims in good condition. I'm having them powder coated this week anyway. #1 Does anyone use or recommend the use of flaps on the original riveted rims to cover the rivet seats? I understand the purpose of flaps but wonder if anyone had any problems with the rivet seats and inner tubes? #2 I notice the other day the blades of my fan do not have the same twist. That seems strange to me. Is this normal? I can't fathom anyone
  6. Well, I haven't been back here for some time this summer. It's been so humid and hot up here in the north country that working in a non-insulated outbuilding has not been much fun. Consequently I haven't had a chance to work on my brake system problem for awhile. So to bring those who have taken their time to offer help up to date I'll try to keep it short. Yes, John, the brakes are done and all is well. Thanks for your input including your experience as well. Originally I couldn't understand why I could pump the brake pedal without it getting eventually stiff and hard to depr
  7. Thanks for the suggestions, Russ. I've always bleed from the farthest wheel cylinder first working back to the closest. Come to think of it I hadn't even given it a thought to do the front wheels first. My first thought was maybe I had honed the master cylinder too much but then ruled out that thought remembering how much I had to squeeze the rubber cup to get it in. I'll give a few of your suggestion a go when I get another bottle of brake fluid. Grampa's 37 Pontiac 6 has given me a few sleepless nights but with the help of fellow 'real' mechanics I may finally get this puppy
  8. Well ,JFranklin, I suspect my explanation wasn't very clear as to what I did. But no, I didn't fill the system from a wheel cylinder. I've never heard of, nor think it's possible, to fill a system from a wheel cylinder.
  9. I need a bit of help deciphering what I'm doing wrong with filling an empty system with brake fluid. I started filling the system with fluid at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master. It took quite some time, with the help of another pumping the brake with me opening and closing the bleeder, until I noticed a leak at the front junction 'T'. Ok, had to tighten a few connections to fix that. But when fluid started appearing in the bleeder hose the pumping stopped moving fluid. The system started with new brake lines, new hoses, honed master cylinder, honed wheel cylinders and I've
  10. Thanks Jon for the suggestions to bending a new screen. I'll remember those when it comes time. They're a good idea. Great info on the short history of carb kits as well. I learned a thing or two. Makes sense when you consider all the little parts in a carburetor and all the different carbs. I'll keep you in mind for the future! Thanks for taking the time to answer!
  11. Well, I bought this Walker carb kit a couple of years ago off Ebay before I knew much about what I was getting into and knowing I would eventually get to the carburetor anyway. Since I'm done overhauled the carb and found this kit missing small washers, gauges, screens, etc., I'm not very impressed with it but it's too late now. I just didn't know any better back then. Such is life, I guess. Just a quick observation here Jon, but do you mean, "If you bought your kit from us" that the kits you sell don't include this screen either? Just trying to figure out what is actually supposed
  12. Thanks for responding Bloo, I'll check with McMaster-Carr. That's really fine for a mesh screen in the pump tube above the ball check. It'll be trick curving the screen as well as bending a curved, 90° corner. Should be fun!! Thanks for the help...can always rely on Bloo!! Edit: Just went to McMaster-Carr and they have a ton of mesh screens. I have no idea what mesh size to order. Wish someone knew what size the mesh is in a carburetor! I suppose I could order a sample kit but that isn't inexpensive either. Do you think a carburetor kit sell
  13. I've overhauled my '46-'52 WA-1 carburetor with a carb kit. Everything went fine until assembling the Climatic Control choke housing. It looks like I'm missing what the Carter Service Manual calls the 'Piston Housing Strainer' at location 'J'. By looking at the carburetor screws it appears the carb has been worked on before so I'm wondering if that strainer is a fine mesh screen someone forgot to replace in the choke housing. I most likely can't purchase a replacement so I'll have to make my own. Does anyone know where I could acquire some super fine mesh screen? And how do you spec
  14. Oh yah, John, I should have noticed the steering wheel in the first pix. That makes a ton of sense, duh! I should have been more observant.
  15. Looks nice Russ! Wish my block looked that clean. A quick question tho, what is that strap for that runs from #5 spark plug over the exhaust manifold, is pinned to the throttle linkage pin on the intake manifold and goes down to somewhere for some reason? Was that original? Don't think I've ever seen one like that before. And one other question, what did you soak the carb in to clean it up like that? I need to do that to mine one of these days.
  16. Hi Summershandy, Man, you've had some problems with that engine! After reading about peoples warping problems I went right out, back then, to check if mine were warped since I hadn't bothered to notice when I removed the manifolds. Thankfully they weren't. I'll use anti-seize also on the studs. I snapped two bolts that were rusted solid trying to remove the heat riser so I'm really into using anti-sieze where ever it looks useful. The brass screw in the heat riser housing that holds the counterweight spring support bracket (or whatever it's called) was also rusted in
  17. Hi Russ, Thanks for taking the time to answer! You"re just the guy I was hoping would respond, one who's done it on his own car. You've done some serious work on that '53 and it's obvious you have some skills, machining your own studs. Looks great!! You answered my questions to a "T". The manifolds are going back on without any Copper sealant use and 25 to 28 ft.lbs of torque is what I'll use. And, as an added bonus, you unknowingly answered a question I had about those really hard to access manifold nuts. It was tricky to get a wrench on them and make e
  18. Thanks John and Bloo. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can. This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up. It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is. I guess I can live with that. As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians. Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.
  19. Hi Bloo, No, I didn't find a choke stove cover. I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck. I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image. I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me. It worked pretty well. I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over. That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses aro
  20. I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original. I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts. I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening. If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs? The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used? And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the man
  21. Hi Guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold choke stove cover, group #3602, for my 37 Pontiac 6. Anybody have one lying around for sale? A little rust never hurt anybody.
  22. Great Bloo, I'd be grateful if you'd do that! I have the CPA catalog but it's a no go there too. I'm not a Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac member either so I'd appreciate if you'd take the time to look! I think you're correct in that Pontiac used this same choke stove cover for many years. Thanks a bunch!
  23. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car. I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either. So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago. I check Ebay fairly often but nothing. So now I'm wondering who else I could contact. I''m running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
  24. Good pix Bloo, thanks. Gives me a good idea of the correct position. Looks like the deflector is positioned more forward to shield more of the float bowl on most of those pix. That corresponds to how the exploded diagram deflector is drawn too.
  25. Ok, thanks for the heads-up. I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home. My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into. My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it. There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit. I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold. Is that why they supply t
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