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Everything posted by kookie1

  1. Thanks for the suggestions, Russ. I've always bleed from the farthest wheel cylinder first working back to the closest. Come to think of it I hadn't even given it a thought to do the front wheels first. My first thought was maybe I had honed the master cylinder too much but then ruled out that thought remembering how much I had to squeeze the rubber cup to get it in. I'll give a few of your suggestion a go when I get another bottle of brake fluid. Grampa's 37 Pontiac 6 has given me a few sleepless nights but with the help of fellow 'real' mechanics I may finally get this puppy
  2. Well ,JFranklin, I suspect my explanation wasn't very clear as to what I did. But no, I didn't fill the system from a wheel cylinder. I've never heard of, nor think it's possible, to fill a system from a wheel cylinder.
  3. I need a bit of help deciphering what I'm doing wrong with filling an empty system with brake fluid. I started filling the system with fluid at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master. It took quite some time, with the help of another pumping the brake with me opening and closing the bleeder, until I noticed a leak at the front junction 'T'. Ok, had to tighten a few connections to fix that. But when fluid started appearing in the bleeder hose the pumping stopped moving fluid. The system started with new brake lines, new hoses, honed master cylinder, honed wheel cylinders and I've
  4. Thanks Jon for the suggestions to bending a new screen. I'll remember those when it comes time. They're a good idea. Great info on the short history of carb kits as well. I learned a thing or two. Makes sense when you consider all the little parts in a carburetor and all the different carbs. I'll keep you in mind for the future! Thanks for taking the time to answer!
  5. Well, I bought this Walker carb kit a couple of years ago off Ebay before I knew much about what I was getting into and knowing I would eventually get to the carburetor anyway. Since I'm done overhauled the carb and found this kit missing small washers, gauges, screens, etc., I'm not very impressed with it but it's too late now. I just didn't know any better back then. Such is life, I guess. Just a quick observation here Jon, but do you mean, "If you bought your kit from us" that the kits you sell don't include this screen either? Just trying to figure out what is actually supposed
  6. Thanks for responding Bloo, I'll check with McMaster-Carr. That's really fine for a mesh screen in the pump tube above the ball check. It'll be trick curving the screen as well as bending a curved, 90° corner. Should be fun!! Thanks for the help...can always rely on Bloo!! Edit: Just went to McMaster-Carr and they have a ton of mesh screens. I have no idea what mesh size to order. Wish someone knew what size the mesh is in a carburetor! I suppose I could order a sample kit but that isn't inexpensive either. Do you think a carburetor kit sell
  7. I've overhauled my '46-'52 WA-1 carburetor with a carb kit. Everything went fine until assembling the Climatic Control choke housing. It looks like I'm missing what the Carter Service Manual calls the 'Piston Housing Strainer' at location 'J'. By looking at the carburetor screws it appears the carb has been worked on before so I'm wondering if that strainer is a fine mesh screen someone forgot to replace in the choke housing. I most likely can't purchase a replacement so I'll have to make my own. Does anyone know where I could acquire some super fine mesh screen? And how do you spec
  8. Oh yah, John, I should have noticed the steering wheel in the first pix. That makes a ton of sense, duh! I should have been more observant.
  9. Looks nice Russ! Wish my block looked that clean. A quick question tho, what is that strap for that runs from #5 spark plug over the exhaust manifold, is pinned to the throttle linkage pin on the intake manifold and goes down to somewhere for some reason? Was that original? Don't think I've ever seen one like that before. And one other question, what did you soak the carb in to clean it up like that? I need to do that to mine one of these days.
  10. Hi Summershandy, Man, you've had some problems with that engine! After reading about peoples warping problems I went right out, back then, to check if mine were warped since I hadn't bothered to notice when I removed the manifolds. Thankfully they weren't. I'll use anti-seize also on the studs. I snapped two bolts that were rusted solid trying to remove the heat riser so I'm really into using anti-sieze where ever it looks useful. The brass screw in the heat riser housing that holds the counterweight spring support bracket (or whatever it's called) was also rusted in
  11. Hi Russ, Thanks for taking the time to answer! You"re just the guy I was hoping would respond, one who's done it on his own car. You've done some serious work on that '53 and it's obvious you have some skills, machining your own studs. Looks great!! You answered my questions to a "T". The manifolds are going back on without any Copper sealant use and 25 to 28 ft.lbs of torque is what I'll use. And, as an added bonus, you unknowingly answered a question I had about those really hard to access manifold nuts. It was tricky to get a wrench on them and make e
  12. Thanks John and Bloo. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can. This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up. It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is. I guess I can live with that. As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians. Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.
  13. Hi Bloo, No, I didn't find a choke stove cover. I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck. I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image. I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me. It worked pretty well. I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over. That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses aro
  14. I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original. I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts. I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening. If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs? The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used? And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the man
  15. Hi Guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold choke stove cover, group #3602, for my 37 Pontiac 6. Anybody have one lying around for sale? A little rust never hurt anybody.
  16. Great Bloo, I'd be grateful if you'd do that! I have the CPA catalog but it's a no go there too. I'm not a Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac member either so I'd appreciate if you'd take the time to look! I think you're correct in that Pontiac used this same choke stove cover for many years. Thanks a bunch!
  17. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car. I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either. So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago. I check Ebay fairly often but nothing. So now I'm wondering who else I could contact. I''m running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
  18. Good pix Bloo, thanks. Gives me a good idea of the correct position. Looks like the deflector is positioned more forward to shield more of the float bowl on most of those pix. That corresponds to how the exploded diagram deflector is drawn too.
  19. Ok, thanks for the heads-up. I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home. My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into. My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it. There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit. I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold. Is that why they supply t
  20. Oh boy, thanks a bunch guys, those pix are better than I thought I'd ever get to see! It's exactly what I needed since I want to keep as close to the original look as I can. I'm an old, retired, shop teacher, emphasis on the 'old', so fabricating a copy shouldn't be too hard. I blocked all the holes in the manifolds, sand blasted both and painted them with high temp manifold paint. But I couldn't put them back on the car until I figured out what to do with this cover plate I didn't have. I original thought, from the drawing, that the furthest cover dimples or holes may
  21. Hey Bloo, Yes, I grabbed that Early Times Chapter view also when the site was up. Viewing the drawing I couldn't tell if the two holes closest together, 4.5" apart, were the anchor holes for the plate or the furthest apart holes in the corners were the screw holes? Then I noticed the two raised bumps on the exhaust manifold that are further apart, passed the screws holes, at about 14" apart so then I wondered which holes were the screw holes? If the cover plate rests on the manifold's raised area around the screw holes I would guess the plate has a gap between it
  22. I've searched the web and couldn't find any reproductions of a '37 Pontiac exhaust manifold cover only an exploded engine view drawing of it. The shop manual shows it as group #3602, part #497612. It appears to be just a sheet metal piece. My manifold doesn't have one so I guess I get to fabricate one myself. The drawing is only a line drawing but looks as if the edges of it are formed a bit, can't really tell from a line drawing. The base of the two screws on the manifold that hold this cover in place are raised just a bit off the surface of the manifold so I'm guessing there is
  23. I only ask because I noticed while researching stainless washers that they have a high heat range up to 300 degrees. Exhaust manifolds surpass that temperature range so I wondered if that could be a potential problem? Has anyone used extra thick stainless washers on their manifolds and experience any problems with their use? I thought I better be more specific with my questions so I added this.
  24. I've removed intake and exhaust manifolds on my '37 Pontiac Deluxe 6 to sandblast and paint. Now on re-installing I need to replace the 1/8" thick manifold washers but they're hard to find being they have to be an inch o.d. I've located ones that are stainless and also plain zinc plated steel that will work but I'm wondering if high temperatures of the exhaust manifold will affect the stainless steel washers. Since the price is practically the same as well as the overall measurements which would be a better choice? I suppose to remain as close to the originals I should stick with the p
  25. Thanks for the pix, PP. You've shown us these before in a previous post but this time with measurements. That definitely helps! I'm wondering if the strap across the front, which I assume is to pull it out of the timing hole, is made of the same foam rubber or is it made of something else? It's hard to tell from the pix. I'm also wondering if one could fabricate a copy with a 3D printer using a denser plastic that can be printed, which requires some serious heating of the plastic to liquefy it, and end up with a hole cover that can handle the under-the-hood heat buildup? Guess I
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