Summershandy

Hey, I think I got that dokka dokka dokka! Luckily I haven't heard any CLINGK between shifts. Thanks for those sound effects! Come to think of it, when I was originally working on the car years ago I wanted to grease the UJ but couldn't get my dang grease gun in there, so I left it. All other fluids and zerk fittings were done though. I should get under there this summer and take another look.

Curious Phil, what sound was your UJ making? I've always had this muffled clunk as I slowly depart and thought it was in the differential. I don't hear anything at normal speeds.

I read your procedure and thought, "filter?" I had to go back to my original pictures when I did replace the fluid to see. It seems like so long ago that I had totally forgot about a filter. It didn't look too bad and there was sediment in the pan. Maybe I'll give it a total change out this summer. I see in the manual some drain torus cover plugs are located inside the flywheel. Would mine be as in the picture?

I'd like to drain the trans fluid this spring through the drain plug. I know the '54 likes type A fluid and Mercon/Dextron III/IV is acceptable. I believe the entire fluid doesn't drain from the entire trans so my question is, I don't remember what type of A fluid I originally used so will any of these fluids be compatible with what may be left over in the trans?

I couldn't resist to comment on the weather Phil. Most of Canada is experiencing the cold Polar Vortex. Where I live the windchills are hitting -40 and in other parts colder. Never mind year round use of antifreeze, have you ever heard an engine start when the block heater isn't plugged in at these temps? Sounds painful!

Looks awesome! The engine colour brings back memories. That was the colour of my straight 8 before I painted it period correct.

We want to see pics too Russ! Don't freak if they seem too small. Take your time and be gentle, they will open up to fit.

You've given me food for thought John. I just came back from a car show which was a 15 minute highway drive away. Car sat for just 1 hour while I walked around. When I went to leave the darn thing just wouldn't start. It would sound like it was going to but wouldn't run. I pumped the pedal before each time I tried, almost to a dead battery. It finally caught and I feathered the pedal to get it to idle. It's NEVER done that before. It runs great on the highway and at idle stil. I'm thinking of yanking my rebuilt pump and checking the innards now.

My steering wheel is definitely straighter than yours but I too have more play than I wish for. I've been meaning to get my butt under there and try adjusting the steering box. Research the type of grease for the box. I think I found some 00 locally and remember reading something about John Deere corn head grease. As EmTee said, tie rod adjustments can make a big difference.

I'm actually impressed with the quality build for the price. Not sure if they're all equal or all the same. For all it's worth, I picked them up at chevypitstop. They were very helpful and communication was excellent. Two traits that are getting harder to find these days. Good luck and feel free to post pics when you get them on!

First time out this summer. I'm still likin' the headlight visors. Went for a short cruise for the usual waves, thumbs up and "what year is your car?" I've even had a few people film me on their phones driving by. Welcome to today's technology.

Have you ever done so many troubleshoots that sometimes you kinda forget what you did? In all honesty, originally I knew both my brake lights didn't work but I only used a mirror on the drivers side to check. When I tested the turn signals I activated the drivers side. Obviously, unbeknownst to me as you indicated that disconnects the brake light. It then started working. Maybe the issue IS only one side.....sigh.

I have power to one side of the brake switch so I must have nothing going back from there. I think I may have found the problem and I think it's in the turn signal lever? I hooked up those 2 wires and began wiggling and moving while double checking the brake lights each time. I thought for fun I'd try the turn signals again then BAM, the brake lights came on. The wiring diagram shows the brake light switch having a wire directly to the turn signal. Then it feeds power to the rear? I hooked the wires back up to the switch and they work again. I'm happy but I'm not....not knowing when the brake lights come on!

Thanks Bloo - I did turn the key just for fun. I'm going to snoop around a bit and check the wiring diagram. I'll let y'all know what or if I find something. Strange how it was fine when parked and no, I haven't had any mice in the garage either!

Well almost all the snow is gone and it's time to pull out the old girl from storage. Turns out I had to buy a new battery. Made it 6 years. She fired right up and while it warmed, I checked the lights. No brake lights. Funny how just sitting for 6 months how the gremlins manage to do their dirty work. Question: to test the brake switch, can't I just remove the 2 wires from the switch and connect them to make a circuit? I tried and still no luck. All the fuses/bulbs/connections are good. I don't particularly wish to change out the switch if it's not necessary in case it's wiring. I read an old post of mine where I received a faulty switch once and learned about changing to mechanical. Again, if it's a wiring problem I'd rather leave the switch in place. Gawd I hate wiring issues!