1936 Viper

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  1. Rueben back in action your wheel shields on!
  2. Carbking, I did notice the Hemming's article seemed to echo your information. Lee
  3. Carbking my carb definitely looks newer than car will look for ID letter supposedly on stiffening vane on throat. (Rebuilt through Then and Now Auto in my neighborhood.) Thanks, for the info. Lee
  4. This may be part of the answer from Hemmings When Carter began producing its BB-1 carburetor for use in 1932 Chrysler products, it didn’t take technicians of the Thirties long to realize how much more advanced it was than any offerings from Zenith, Stromberg and other updraft carburetors of the same era. The carburetor often appeared on any other manifold it could fit, and Carter soon took advantage of its popularity and began marketing replacement bolt-on carburetors to retrofit onto cars, trucks, tractors and inboard boat engines. The Carter BB-1 is still an often sought-after unit for many classic car enthusiasts, and several iterations of the Ball & Ball updraft are still found at swap meets and pick-a-part yards today, if you know where to look. BB-1 carburetors (and the newer BBR-1s and BBR-2s) were used on many production cars: The Carter BBs were also used in thousands of industrial and/or farm applications using six-cylinder Chrysler engines. Like most early Carters, BB units can be identified by the aluminum tag mounted on one corner of the fuel bowl, usually a three-digit or four-digit number followed by an “S.” A second letter after the “S” indicates an engineering change from the original part number. Identification without that tag is extremely difficult; however, The Carburetor Shop does offer a carburetor ID service for $10, if you send them the carburetor. Three different BB units were offered, and they are usually referred to by their size designation, established by SAE. Size one units have a one-inch bore and a 23⁄8-inch mounting pattern for the intake manifold. Size 2 carburetors have a 1¼-inch bore size and a 211⁄16-inch mounting base; and Size 3 units have a 1½-inch bore size with 215⁄16-inch manifold bolt pattern. Ball & Ball units are desirable because of their slender body, which fits in tight engine locations much more easily than other updrafts. The BB’s main metering jets are easily adjustable from outside the carburetor body, and they have an adjustable idle circuit as well. The throttle shafts are long and have a universal clamp-type throttle lever, making them easily adaptable to various accelerator configurations. When sourcing a good Carter Ball & Ball, try to find one that came off an automotive engine; many units were designed for use on trucks and boats and are not as easy to adapt for passenger cars. Marine units have different accelerator pumps, and many truck units were equipped with vacuum-type governors. These units can be altered, but it is more expensive. Replacement carburetor kits are still very easy to locate, and some replacement items used to adapt truck or marine units to passenger cars are available but expensive. It is also important to note that Carter B&B carburetors do not like having the accelerator mashed repeatedly; they are designed to start by one primer tap on the pedal, and then use of the choke is all that is necessary. More Carter updraft information is available at The Carburetor Shop’s website and a detailed repair procedure brochure is available online at The Old Car Manual Project, www.oldcarmanual.com. The Carburetor Shop 573-392-7278www.thecarburetorshop.com
  5. The "hated" Carter BBR1 (rebuilt) on my 36 D2 runs good will have to report back on mileage. Must have replaced original somewhere along the way.
  6. 35cz8, I like the sounds of that will explore the possibilities. See if I have enough room to mount horns. Like the sound of dual horns, of course now I have to find them
  7. Probably go with engine mounted horn. Ordered a vintage beeper from ebay $100. Subsequently found the new spartan ahooga horn 6v, $250. I will see what the old one I ordered looks like
  8. Looking for a good replacement type 6v horn for 1936 Dodge. Horn domes were co-opted for parking light locations. Have seen them mounted on top of engine. Aooga type horn. See a lot of Spartan horns that may be appropriate. Wondering what others have done as many use the old horn locations for park/directional lights. New, old, repros? Have a little plastic beeper on it now for inspection.
  9. Removed dash for access replacement went fine. Regulator from "This Ole' Coupe"
  10. D2 back from the shop after extensive brake work, running gear, electrics, many thanks to South Shore Customs in Plymouth, MA and Then and Now Auto in Weymouth, MA. Will go back in the shop in the winter for re vulcanizing motor mount and trans mount and some work on shocks and rubber bushings. Also trans seals and drill out a broken bolt. And a new windshield regulator installed from This Ole' Coupe. Running good now drives nice.
  11. Not sure I posted this correctly and it may not be appropriate for DB forum, but looking for rear quarter panels for 1956 Dodge panel Truck
  12. Hello All, Just finished reading through all posts on the forum (362 I think) back to pre 2002. Amazing amount of information and contacts. Was sad that photos on early posts have gone away. My 36 D2 4 dr in the shop for brakes, a fuel problem, and a few other small issues, hopefully ready for Spring. Cannot tell you how valuable the forum was for troubleshooting problems. The shop is South Shore Customs Plymouth MA with parts help from Then and Now Auto Weymouth MA. I have two questions forum members can help me out with. Obviously I am on the forum but am I a member of the AACA oor DB club? Are there other Dodge associations on the forum that you can join? Again thanks to all who started and keep this forum up, Please tell me what I am not a member of that pertains to early Dodge cars. Thanks again, Lee
  13. Thanks All, It was couple of hidden rubber gas line connections to steel lines that must have had pinholes. I know the one that I replaced near the tank was totally deteriorated (leaking) it was pre-ethanol gas line. So I was losing the "siphon". Running like a champ now in the shop for brakes and few other items. Pump and Carb good.
  14. Hello All, Just finished reading through all posts on the forum (362 I think) back to pre 2002. Amazing amount of information and contacts. Was sad that photos on early posts have gone away. My 36 D2 4 dr in the shop for brakes, a fuel problem, and a few other small issues, hopefully ready for Spring. Cannot tell you how valuable the forum was for troubleshooting problems. The shop is South Shore Customs Plymouth MA with parts help from Then and Now Auto Weymouth MA. I have two questions forum members can help me out with. Obviously I am on the forum but am I a member of the AACA oor DB club? Are there other Dodge associations on the forum that you can join? Again thanks to all who started and keep this forum up, Please tell me what I am not a member of that pertains to early Dodge cars. Thanks again, Lee