1936 Viper

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  1. Then and Now re vulcanized my motor mounts for a 36, however did swap out my emergency brake parts, would not fit, had to have them rebuild my original brake shoes. Little extra down time.
  2. Back in the shop for additional work. Motor mounts (for more floating power) gaskets, seals, parking brake rebuild, tune up, points and plugs, Work on wipers. Hope to have it back the end of the week. I want to drive 55.
  3. Kiltie green looks like the color of my 36 D2 engine block
  4. Forum: What would be the advantage, if any, to having an antique plate in Massachusetts. I have a perfect 1936 MA plate that came with my D2 when I bought it. I have read over the application paperwork several times and inquired to my insurance carrier. The written rules for the antique plate seem quite restrictive to club events, maintenance runs, not for transporting people or goods, etc. However the rules may not be strictly enforced. Maybe there is some relief on inspection? I will reach out to local club "Spindles Car Club" and see if anyone there has any input. I love the plate but I currently have regular plates on with no restrictions. However I am still struggling with vacuum wipers for MA inspection. Haven't been stopped for no sticker. Any thoughts?
  5. Nice car found it on youtube. Danny claims there are only 5 registered in the US? Maybe it is the long wheelbase model? I heard a clip of his 1936 D2 TS starting up at Torres car show sounded like there may be something under the hood other than stock L6 bit of a rumble coming from down under. Very short clip hard to tell.
  6. Then and Now Auto in Weymouth, MA will re-build your rear wheel cylinders and have all the remaining parts for complete brake re-do. Part of South Shore Customs in Plymouth, MA rebuild on my 36 D2. Brakes work great little different to use thaan modern power brakes. They will even do a panic stop, lock em up. Beautiful convertible
  7. I use Prestone 50/50 in my D2. Cools well and is clean as a whistle.
  8. Rueben back in action your wheel shields on!
  9. Carbking, I did notice the Hemming's article seemed to echo your information. Lee
  10. Carbking my carb definitely looks newer than car will look for ID letter supposedly on stiffening vane on throat. (Rebuilt through Then and Now Auto in my neighborhood.) Thanks, for the info. Lee
  11. This may be part of the answer from Hemmings When Carter began producing its BB-1 carburetor for use in 1932 Chrysler products, it didn’t take technicians of the Thirties long to realize how much more advanced it was than any offerings from Zenith, Stromberg and other updraft carburetors of the same era. The carburetor often appeared on any other manifold it could fit, and Carter soon took advantage of its popularity and began marketing replacement bolt-on carburetors to retrofit onto cars, trucks, tractors and inboard boat engines. The Carter BB-1 is still an often sought-after unit for many classic car enthusiasts, and several iterations of the Ball & Ball updraft are still found at swap meets and pick-a-part yards today, if you know where to look. BB-1 carburetors (and the newer BBR-1s and BBR-2s) were used on many production cars: The Carter BBs were also used in thousands of industrial and/or farm applications using six-cylinder Chrysler engines. Like most early Carters, BB units can be identified by the aluminum tag mounted on one corner of the fuel bowl, usually a three-digit or four-digit number followed by an “S.” A second letter after the “S” indicates an engineering change from the original part number. Identification without that tag is extremely difficult; however, The Carburetor Shop does offer a carburetor ID service for $10, if you send them the carburetor. Three different BB units were offered, and they are usually referred to by their size designation, established by SAE. Size one units have a one-inch bore and a 23⁄8-inch mounting pattern for the intake manifold. Size 2 carburetors have a 1¼-inch bore size and a 211⁄16-inch mounting base; and Size 3 units have a 1½-inch bore size with 215⁄16-inch manifold bolt pattern. Ball & Ball units are desirable because of their slender body, which fits in tight engine locations much more easily than other updrafts. The BB’s main metering jets are easily adjustable from outside the carburetor body, and they have an adjustable idle circuit as well. The throttle shafts are long and have a universal clamp-type throttle lever, making them easily adaptable to various accelerator configurations. When sourcing a good Carter Ball & Ball, try to find one that came off an automotive engine; many units were designed for use on trucks and boats and are not as easy to adapt for passenger cars. Marine units have different accelerator pumps, and many truck units were equipped with vacuum-type governors. These units can be altered, but it is more expensive. Replacement carburetor kits are still very easy to locate, and some replacement items used to adapt truck or marine units to passenger cars are available but expensive. It is also important to note that Carter B&B carburetors do not like having the accelerator mashed repeatedly; they are designed to start by one primer tap on the pedal, and then use of the choke is all that is necessary. More Carter updraft information is available at The Carburetor Shop’s website and a detailed repair procedure brochure is available online at The Old Car Manual Project, www.oldcarmanual.com. The Carburetor Shop 573-392-7278www.thecarburetorshop.com
  12. The "hated" Carter BBR1 (rebuilt) on my 36 D2 runs good will have to report back on mileage. Must have replaced original somewhere along the way.
  13. 35cz8, I like the sounds of that will explore the possibilities. See if I have enough room to mount horns. Like the sound of dual horns, of course now I have to find them
  14. Probably go with engine mounted horn. Ordered a vintage beeper from ebay $100. Subsequently found the new spartan ahooga horn 6v, $250. I will see what the old one I ordered looks like