Gary W

Just to clarify.. The part that is holding up removal of the bowl cover is that "T" shaped part. It looks like it has a hole in the bottom that locks with the other part with the pin. Is that correct? So after the freezer, should both those parts lift up as a unit? ALSO: Jon.. Do you have information on "running adjustments"? Specifically, how do I get the automatic choke to open quicker? It takes a full nine to ten minutes to fully open, although when you manually open the choke (during warm up) she wants the extra air. Thank you so much!! I really appreciate it! Gary

I also had the UVIRA process done on my headlight reflectors and I am very happy with the results. Reflector alone Installed into the housing. UVIRA recommends you carry a ground wire directly to the socket. Here's the entire headlight build:

Before I do any damage, can someone please explain how I remove the top of the carburetor (Carter 608S). There is a part in there with a crossbar that is holding up the removal. I have the screws out, but when I lift the top, it only moves about 1/2 an inch when it bottoms out on the "crossbar". How is that part removed so I can lift the top off? Appreciate any help for proper disassembly technique. Thanks!

When I restored my '37, I ordered new leaf springs as the originals had several cracked leaves. I had each leaf blasted clean, then I painted each leaf both sides with POR-15. Once the POR-15 dried, I painted "SLIP PLATE" on all the rubbing surfaces. I've used this on my Model "T" and my Model "A"'s with very nice long term results. Here's the write up from when I did the springs:

1914 “T”

A Blessed Thanksgiving to all our AACA families.

I ultimately swapped out the roll pin for a solid 1/8" steel rod cut to size and peened to secure it:

Class act. Wonderful tribute to Chris.

Update to the distributor build : Roll Pin swapped for solid 1/8" Steel Rod When I rebuilt the distributor, I received some good advice: I originally used split roll pins to attach the gear to the shaft. Even though I was able to spread the ends of the roll pins, I ultimately ended up removing the split roll pin and replaced it with 1/8" steel rod. I got the steel rod from Home Depot, cut it to about 1-1/4". I worked one side in the vise and using heat and a rivet set, I was able to form a nice head on it. Then I slid the rod through the gear and shaft, heated the protruding end and peened it so there is no way it can slip out. Thanks for the advice! Always appreciated. A couple photos: I cut the rod, secured it in the vise and heated it. I first used a punch to create the dimple which mushroomed the edges out. Then I was able to use a rivet set (rivet punch?) to form a head on it. Then over to the distributor gear. I slid the new rod in and basically did the same thing freehand to peen the other side. Admittedly, the original side looks a lot nicer, but it is secure now. Gary

I have pictures from my '37 Buick... maybe they will help you I did a few "dry fits" first to be sure I had the correct angle, the seal fit in the groove properly I covered the paint with towels and laid in a thin bead of 3M weather strip adhesive. See the yellow line down in there. With the bead placed, I gently sat the rubber seal in position Next, to ensure it seals nice, I placed the cowl vent cover over the new seal and checked my gaps all around. Once satisfied with the position, I placed a little weight on it to allow it all to set nice and straight. all done! I got all my rubber parts from Steele Rubber. Maybe some models will cross over for you

Ouch!

I used Bob's for all my gauges and I am very happy with their work.

Meet Ingrid.. 1967 Convertible.

Found them: I hope some of the 1937 translates over to your 1939 clock, but here is how I did it: I got the harness from Rhode Island Wiring. This my original clock with wires. The side socket is a press fit into the side socket holder. Remove the bulb and gently push the socket out of the holder. Remove the back screws to access the wire attachments. With that side socket out of its holder, again its just a press fit holding the top and bottom of the socket together. Easy pull and slight twist and the two halves will come apart. WATCH for the tiny balls will fall out. Unsolder the socket button off the wire and everything will come apart. Inside is the cardboard insulator ring and the disc where those small balls stay. Sorry for the horrible upper photo, but that is the order of assembly of the internal parts in the lower part of the socket. After running the wire through all the various insulators, springs.... solder the new button onto the end of your new wire. Push the socket back together with the balls, slide the socket into the holder, new light. Hope these photos shed a little light on the project! If you need anything else, I think I have more photos. Just go slow. Photograph everything coming apart so you get it right. Gary

In my '37, I re-wired both sockets attached to the clock. The lower one illuminates the clock face, the side one lights when the door opens and the little "BB's" make the connection. I just re-read my post from that part of the restoration and it seems like I just ran a new wire to that side socket, keeping all the internal guts.. BUT I will have to check my photos from that night. I'm sure I have it documented how I got in there.

I installed an electric "priming pump" for the same reason. After sitting about a week, starting was a long cranking experience. Follow this post for the entire install: Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner.

Distributor Data Tag: I thought this would be a good place to insert a parallel discussion on the Distributor Data Tag: If your data tag is hopelessly deformed, bent, missing... Bob's sells a reproduction tag for the Delco-Remy distributor. There are two styles: 1. A "two-window" style that has the Model # in the left side window (663-Y) and the serial # in the right window (The one I used here) 2. A "one-window" style that has one large window that has both the model # and serial #. If you are going to keep your original tag, I recommend covering it with tape prior to using a wire wheel to clean the distributor as the metal is so thin it'll be ruined. Keep it covered for the painting process and just use the "paint and wipe" technique (or a sharpie marker) afterward to restore the color and text. Here's the discussion: (Just touch the arrow in the upper corner) And another parallel discussion about the various tags and the changes: Good Stuff!

One more!

Wall Township, NJ. Close to Allaire State Park

Or the trunk light socket.. I rebuilt all my sockets because the small insulator disc breaks down and can allow the wires to touch either the socket wall or each other.

Got the Buick out on the backroads Saturday afternoon All three are screenshots from a video. Photos taken in Wall Township, NJ

I used a sharp blade to get under the heads of the drive screws to start lifting them free. Once they were raised a bit, I was able to use an end cutter to pull them out and take the tag off. ** Actually, when your wife steps out, grab her cuticle cutter, pull the drive screws and quickly return it ** When you order your new tag, be aware there are two types: 1. A "double window" tag where the Model # is stamped in one window, the serial # in the other window (the one I used) 2. A "single window" tag where both numbers are stamped in the single window. You will get two new drive screws with your new blank tag. When I cleaned my chassis, I found the Date of Manufacture on the side of the frame so I sent my blank distributor tag down to Matt Hinson and he engraved 21637 as a "serial number" to reflect the DOM of February 16, 1937. I used the inside of a coffee mug to create a nice contour before going to the distributor. They bend very easily. It was the last piece I installed to complete the distributor rebuild. The date of manufacture was stamped on the side of my frame so I used that to customize my distributor tag. You'll be surprised how much dirt and rust gets under that tag. I felt better making it nice and clean under there!

I had great results with Moyer Gas Tank Renu. Being your tank is in good shape structurally, it may be a good option for you. The tank gets cleaned, repaired and coated on the inside. Worth looking into. MOYER FUEL TANK RENU 2011Western Avenue Greensburg, PA 15601 1-800-328-9550 mailto:moyer@westol.com Joseph H Moyer