Gary W

Probably the biggest up side to adjusting the valves on a hot, running engine is you can actually hear which valves are a bit noisy, focus in on them and adjust them accordingly. When these engines are idled down, they turn over slow enough to make the initial measurements with a feeler gauge. Then just adjust the ones that are not .015. I posted the video because I thought that was the proper technique for adjusting the valves. My buddy John, who has been working on these cars for 75 years does it like that, and he showed me how to do it. A little clumsy for sure, but I didn't know there was another way! Always learning! Neil, keep at it! Thanks for posting your work. I'm looking forward to a successful finish!

Here'a a brief preview. Remember, John is 90 years old doing this AND the engine is completely exposed.... No fenders to reach over! Adjusting to .015 Hot: There are tools to help with the procedure. https://forums.aaca.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=860334 Or this link to page 6:

I use a battery maintainer about a week before I'm taking a car out that has been sitting a while. My Ford Roadster is more of a summer car, and it sits pretty much from October to April. The Coupe is my winter Model "A", and of course the Buick is year round. I have a Model "T" that runs exclusively on magneto, but I do get under there every three to four months and put the maintainer on the battery. But I don't use them regularly. Just for "touch ups" I do, however, have a master kill switch in my cars (except the "T"), and I do think that the total disconnect preserves the batteries. This is the kill switch I use in three of my cars. I mount them on the floor, inside, just in front of the seat. Paint the handle to match your interior. Easy on and off. And this is the maintainer I use to bring the batteries up. It does conventional lead-acid, gel, AGM.... I run 6V OPTIMA Red Top batteries, so I use the AGM setting.

Hi Ted! As someone who has learned so much from you, and followed along every step of the way, I can honestly say your posts were never a waste of time. I know the dedication it takes to document every step with photos, spend all night organizing, re-sizing, posting and explaining..... And I thank your contributions. Good luck with the shoulder! Your friend Gary

I bought the firewall insulator from Bobs Automobilia. The new firewall pad is thinner than the original. This created a problem using the original firewall insulator fasteners. So I ended up using a product called "Dynaliner", a half-inch thick self-adhesive, noise reducing insulation pad. I installed TWO layers of the Dynaliner to make up the one inch difference. Then installed the new firewall pad. That extra thickness allowed me to use my original fasteners and helps keep the cabin a little quieter and comfortable. Check CARS, Inc. in NJ also. They may have it. Mine is a brown leatherette grain. It looks nice and fit well. Check page 15 of my blog:

I used Rhode Island Wiring. You let them know what accessories you have and they will build the harness. Every inch fit perfectly.

Hi Mike! Thanks for the nice words. If I can help with any photos, I have a ton of every step along the restoration. I'm sure you've seen the YouTube video "1937 Oldsmobile", but if you haven't, its worth the watch! A lot of information and you never know what tidbits you'll pick up. Good luck with your project! Gary

Neil; Here's a photo of my using my power washer blowing water INTO the side drain and it exits out the core plug hole on the opposite side.

I'm glad to hear you got the radiator cored. I hope you have the same cooling experience that I have with my Buick. I run a 160 thermostat. On those hot hot summer days, she runs nice and cool, even in slow, "stop and go" traffic. (Dash gauge just barely brushes up to the 180 mark) When I take her out on these freezing January and February mornings, I cover the bottom 1/3 of the radiator and she still runs cool. I get enough heat so its comfortable, but sometimes I feel like running a 180 in the colder months and swapping it out with the 160 in summer. To make the radiator cover: I went to Costco and bought a black bath towel. I then trimmed it to size and folded the edges over and sewed in a couple magnets. I lift the hood and there is plenty of metal in there for the magnets to hold the towel in position. From the outside you never see anything and it works nicely. Funny thing..... I was cleaning the garage last week and I came across this postcard. A Buick advertisement promoting their cars. The photo states it was taken on Constitution Day, September 17, 1937. It was the day they unveiled Lincoln's face. (Rushmore wasn't finished until 1941) Then I noticed what looks like radiator covers over the outside of the grille. The car is actually a 1938 model, which may be accurate for September of 1937, but is it that cold in South Dakota in September? Good luck getting her back on the road! Gary

I used DORMAN 555-040 which are 1.953" Neil If you send me your address I can send you them. I have four or five here from the build. Gary

Hi Neil! When you finish the plug change, may I recommend using a bottle of "NO ROSION" additive to your 50/50 antifreeze. I use it in every one of my vehicles to hopefully prevent future rust/corrosion...... Good luck with the project. You got this! Gary

I think they are called "cage nuts" for the early Buick valves

Don't rule out a bad condenser. Those things can cause a bunch of symptoms when they fail.

Couple ideas: 1. Check your local area for an upholstery shop. I live in NJ, and there is a shop called Asbury Auto Tops. They are an old, cluttered, disorganized shop that turns out beautiful work and specializes mostly in convertible tops on old Mercedes, Jags.... BUT they also have tons of fabrics for interiors. Sometimes just getting to know a local shop and picking the owners brain can help you find a lead. I was lucky enough to get a LBB kit, (I think the last one out the door!), but when I'm driving around town I often see their cars outside. 2. Try SMS. If they have what you need, bingo. 3. Heritage Upholstery and Trim. They are in Palm Springs, California. 1.800.661.5377. They specialize in mostly high end upholstery BUT, again, worth reaching out. Sometimes that "Mercedes tan wool headliner material" is just what you need for your Buick sun visors and arm rests, and you can make it work. 4. Heritage Antique Automobile Interiors. They are in Columbus, Ohio. They make interior shades and also have fabrics. 1.614.451.8893. Ask for Marcus. He made my rear shade for my '37 Buick and did a really nice job with it. They will do a "made to order" interior if a kit is no longer available for your car. 5. There is a fellow restorer on this forum who goes by the name "Chistech". His restorations are "second-to-none". His upholstery work is perfection. It may be worth sending him a private message through the forum to pick his brain. He may have a better lead for you. Good luck with your search. Now that LBB closed down, we all have more leg work and research to do. If I can be of any help with the '37, don't hesitate! Merry Christmas Gary

I installed an electric "priming" pump also. When the car sits over 5 days, I use the pump to fill the carburetor bowl and she fires right up! Takes a lot of stress off your battery, starter and related components that you don't need to crank the engine incessantly until the mechanical pump fills the carburetor. Once running, the original, mechanical pump pulls through the electric pump. It is only used for priming the system after sitting awhile. I did install two 5/16" plug valves, one before and one after the electric pump, so if it fails, the next change will be a lot less messy! Also, I used fittings instead of the rubber to ensure a good tight seal. I know you already installed your pump, but here's the write up with photos in case you want to change out the rubber hose...... Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner. It details over six posts.

I have a step-by-step tank removal process on my 1937 blog. I'm sure most of it will translate to the '38. Maybe it'll help you just get the steps in order: Step - By - Step Gas Tank / Sending Unit Removal: With the car still on the ground: 1. Release the bayonet base wire (sending unit wire) in the trunk and pushed the wire through the hole and rest it on top of the tank 2. Remove the gas filler neck and rubber fender grommet. (Originally you would unscrew the "extension" that protrudes out of the fender from the tank filler pipe. My car's filler pipe was cut and the previous owner simply used a heavy duty hose and clamps to attach the two.) 3. Remove completely the fill pipe support clamp from the chassis and the fill pipe and slide it off. The rest is done with the car raised at least a foot: 4. Jack the car up at least a foot, and securely set jack stands under the frame by the rear running board support irons. Chock the front wheels. 5. Drain the tank into a suitable container by removing the 9/16" plug from the bottom of the tank. 6. Once you have it mostly drained, replace the 9/16" plug as gas will spill out when you twist and turn to drop it free. 7. Disconnect the fuel supply line from the front of the tank. Need a 9/16" and a 1/2" flare wrench 8. Remove the gas tank support straps using a 9/16" deep socket 9. Tank is now loose and ready to drop (If it has't already!) By pushing the drivers side up and forward you can carefully turn the tank and it will come down. 10. There may be a dedicated ground wire attached to the base of the sending unit. If not, you may consider adding one before re-installation. 11. Remove the sender wire from the sending unit. It's a good time to check the end is soldered tight and the insulation/shrink wrap is good. 12. Sending unit is affixed with 5 machine screws and a gasket. Here are the above steps with photos: (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner)

When I restored my '37, I sent the radiator out to a company called "Cap-A-Radiator" in NY. I had the original Harrison radiator re-cored and it was money well spent. I found them very professional, great communication and nice work. Now approaching 2500 miles, and driving on some 95+ degree days, she barely approaches 180. Overheating, boiling over, foaming, antifreeze on the paint, drips in the garage......... bite the bullet and enjoy that magnificent automobile! (They do heater cores also. It's worth a conversation with them.)

The way I understood it: 4619: 4 = BUICK 6 = SERIES 60 CENTURY 19 = 4-DOOR TRUNKBACK SEDAN (So a 4419 would be a Buick (4), Series 40 Special (4), Trunkback Sedan (19))

Hi Jack! I get a steady 20 from my car at idle.

This from Matt's Century Restoration. I'm pretty sure this is the correct post concerning the sender rebuild. Matt does address the sending unit / gas tank in posts before and after this one, but this will get you in the ballpark:

I use the optima 6V Red Top in all four of my antiques. No lead acid spilling, no fumes peeling paint. Nice and neat. Highly recommend. The '37 Battery sits in a battery box under the front seat.

they pop up on eBay frequently.

I don't know if the '38 flywheel is like the '37, but the flywheel can be mounted in six positions, only one of which is correct. When I refurbished my 248, I made sure to attach the flywheel with the markings showing through the window when the crankshaft was at top dead center. When #1 was fully up. Easy when the motor is all apart. If you can, turn the motor so #1 is up top. Maybe use an awl to scratch a line on the flywheel through the window. then remove the flywheel cover as suggested above, rotate the engine and you'll have a mark there to paint white. Enjoy that beautiful automobile!! Truly a roadworthy car and a pleasure to drive!

The '37 is adjusted to .015 Hot.

I used CAP - A - RADIATOR in Fulton NY to recore my Harrison radiator. Beautiful workmanship. They also do all kinds of heater cores also 556 Fulton Street Farmingdale, NY 1.516.293.9026 https://www.caparadiator.com/heaters