Gary W

Here's how I did my '37: Step - by - Step photos:

Hi Norman! You are correct, the shorter side goes forward, the longer side (about 9+ inches longer) goes to the rear shackle. The original springs with the tin covers still intact. These are the new leaf springs from EATON. Be sure to tighten down those "U"bolts when installing. I relied on an impact wrench and thought they were tight enough. Get a torque wrench on those nuts. Gary

I posted a step-by-step distributor rebuild a while ago. It does make a difference when everything in there is functioning properly.

I have a ‘37. Ended up replacing both rear leaf springs. New set from Eaton and they are great. Be sure you torque them to spec when installed and check again after a couple hundred miles. Once all my suspension parts were restored/replaced, I think the best thing I did was to take the car to the “Front End Shop“ in Farmingdale for a four-wheel alignment. Amazing how beautifully she runs after that. Here’s how I bought the car. The rear leaf is cracked and protruding though the gaiter. search my restoration for “springtime”. The whole process is documented... just touch the arrow! gary

My Buick rear tire rubbed just like yours. I replaced both rear springs and had the shocks rebuilt to solve it.

The power wash won’t hurt the block and is very effective at removing all the rust, scale…. My engine was out on the driveway when I pressure washed it but I sent my radiator out for a re-core.

From my '37 manual: The timing chain has marks that are exactly 10 LINKS apart. These must align with the marks on the gears. The book on the left, my actual engine on the right displaying the proper alignment of the timing chain.

I've used these "Yor-Lok" tube fittings very successfully. Maybe you can research your fittings and thread and find one that will work?

The Buick manual says you can expect a 2-degree change in the cam dwell angle when using new points. The manual specifies .002 to .007 end play of the shaft.

Here's an old ad from 1935... "Standup" bumper jack

Our deepest condolences to you and the entire Wiegand family. Sending prayers for solace at this heartbreaking time. The Wheeler's

John was a class act. Always friendly, down to earth and truly a gentleman in every sense of the word. For those of us lucky enough to live here in Monmouth County, NJ, a trip to John's "Backdoor Garage" was the thrill of the year. I say garage. This place put many museums to shame! On top of the awesome cars, the amazing decor and the over-the-top hospitality from John and Jill, it was a "never-miss" trip! I took my sons to see the cars a couple years ago. Allow me to share some photos. You'll see in an instant why we looked forward to our yearly visit! John... The ultimate host! In his garage hosting our local club. The wall decor was like an old street. Club members checking out all the cars "Abraham"...... His Lincoln. They all had great names! His Duesy. Stunning Here is the Duesenberg at a local fund raising event held on the grounds of another club member. The car had a crowd all day. No words needed. My deepest condolences to the family. John will be sorely missed. Gary

Much easier on the bench! Here is my step-by-step distributor restoration. Maybe it can help as you check each part is working correctly.

I installed an accessory electric pump to prime the carburetor when the car sat for more than six days. I now push the button under the dash for about 30 seconds to fill the carburetor bowl and she fires right off. The original fuel pump works fine the rest of time and it draws fuel through the electric pump just fine. No issues at all. Here's how I installed the inline fuel pump. As I stated, I use it only to fill the carburetor prior to starting, so I installed a momentary push button under the dash. Step-by-Step install:

When I did my '37, I sent all my gauges out to Bob's. Very nice workmanship.

I just went out in the garage and snapped this photo with my iPhone: The manifolds have been on the car for over six years now, I'm quickly approaching 3,000 miles on the car and so far no issues at all. You can still see the small bead of the high temp gasket maker around the exhaust ports and the gasket still has its shiny copper look. So far so good!

Hi Dave! I went back and found the photos: First I sat the gland rings in the intake ports of the manifold to be sure they fit without binding. Once tapped in, I measured the amount of metal proud of the casting and the gap. I just didn't want any surprises when I installed the manifold. Then over to the block, I installed all four gland rings, and remeasured gaps and the height of each ring. Everything was good here. I did not want the height of the ring to prevent proper manifold seating. I used this on the exhaust ports only. First a light smear around the ports on the block.... Then I sat the gasket over the studs, over the gland rings and the gasket maker tacked it into position. Again, a smear around the exhaust ports of the manifold assembly. Heave it up and bolt it in position. Hope the photos help! Have a great day! Gary

I installed a 6V electric pump to simply prime the carburetor after the car ('37 Buick) has sat for about a week. The fuel in the bowl would evaporate, so instead of running the starter motor over and over to prime, now the electric pump, installed inline, does the job in about 30 seconds. Here is the entire write up:

I had a nice ring gear story also! When I restored my '37, it was obvious the vacuum start switch was malfunctioning and allowing the starter to "try" to engage while the previous owner was driving. This constant activation of the solenoid caused irreparable damage to my ring gear, where a "flip" was out of the question. I did get a new gear from Bob's at the time and the install was pretty straight forward: My ring gear after constant attack by the solenoid and starter. This close-up of the teeth show irreparable damage. No flip here. So I got a new gear and made the replacement. I evenly applied heat all around the gear to allow a slight expansion. Using a heavy brass drift I began punching down little by little Here you can see the ring beginning to let loose and drop. Almost completely off now, a few more taps and she dropped free from the flywheel. After cleaning everything up, especially the shoulder on the flywheel, I placed the ring on the grill to heat it, and left the flywheel out in the February cold. The heat expansion was just enough to allow an easy slip on and when it all cooled and contracted, she was home. If you zoom in, you can see the bevels in the gear teeth to allow the starter gear to engage. You will have to create some kind of bevel on this side to allow easy engagement. This was the first time I ever did this and it went very smoothly. I have completely restored the car, so everything now works as it should. Getting close to 3,000 miles, and when they are all sorted out and adjusted properly it all works as intended. I would really try to find a good replacement ring gear unless like Larry said earlier you have a shop that can create the bevel on each tooth. Gary

I installed using gland rings in all the intake ports and an orange Hi Temp sealant around the exhaust ports. Both sides of the copper gasket.

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...the last step!) 16. Install the Throttle Connector Rod and the Fast Idle Connector Rod: These are the final parts to complete the carburetor rebuild. Note: The small round part way out on the left is what's left of the original throttle connector rod washer, spring and retainer. The brass part in the middle is Part No. 172-22 "Throttle connector rod retainer". Easier replacement if your original is rusted or ruined. Install the Throttle Control Rod: 16A. Insert the upper end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the pump operating lever. 16B. Insert the lower end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the throttle shaft arm. 16C. Slide the countershaft pin spring into the groove to secure the upper end of the throttle connector rod to the pump operating lever. 16D. The lower end of the throttle connector rod is secured using the throttle control rod washer, spring and retainer. (Or use part No. 172-22 throttle connector rod retainer) 16E. Push in the retainer to compress the spring and turn it 90 degrees to secure it. Install the Fast Idle Connector Rod: 16F. Rotate the upper end of the fast idle connector rod to line up the upset in the rod with the elongated hole in the choke lever. 16G. Insert the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the choke lever and rotate down to secure the upper end. 16H. Insert the lower end of the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the fast idle cam trip lever. 16I. Secure the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with a pin spring. You are finished with the reassembly of the Carter WCD. (Notice I did move the brass data tag out of the way of the fast idle connector rod.) I made the preliminary adjustments all according to the Carter sheet. I'll post them in a few days. Gary

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 15. Rebuild the Air Horn Assembly. Starting in the familiar way of grouping all the air horn parts together for assembly. Again, all channels, passageways, cylinders... are blown out clean. The Air Horn casting is clean and ready for rebuilding. 15A. Install the choke piston lever, link and shaft assembly. That's the actual part name. I'll refer to it as the choke shaft. 15B. When the choke shaft is seated, begin lining up the choke piston with its operating cylinder. 15C. Once aligned, push down on the choke piston while rotating the choke shaft to seat the choke piston in its operating cylinder. 15D. Align the choke valve holes with the holes in the choke shaft. 15E. Attach the choke valve with two choke valve attaching screws. You should have a nice easy action here now. The piston MUST move freely in its cylinder. It's the vacuum pulling on that piston that opens your choke plate. NOT the thermostatic coil unit. 15F. Install the coil housing baffle plate. 15G. Install the coil housing gasket. 15H. Install the thermostatic coil and housing assembly. Note: You first install with indicator marks at the bottom...... 15I. Then rotate the housing clockwise to set the index marks according to your carburetor's spec sheet. Operational Note: The enclosed bimetallic coil functions to CLOSE the choke. Vacuum acting on the choke piston OPENS the choke. As the coil heats up, it relaxes and allows the piston to open the choke plate. As the coil cools down, it rotates to close the choke plate. Basically, you need to rotate the housing so the choke plate just touches closed at 65 -70 degrees. 15J. From the Carter service manual. 15K. Having set it so the choke plate just touches closed, secure the thermostatic coil and housing assembly with three coil housing attaching screws and three coil housing retainers. 15L. Install the choke lever clamp screw and choke lever clamp nut onto the choke lever. This is now called the choke lever and screw assembly. 15M. Install the choke lever and screw assembly onto the choke shaft. Don't over tighten it yet, it will need adjustment. 15N. Secure the finished air horn to the bowl lid with four air horn attaching screws and lock washers. (Side note: That brass data tag will not stay there! It interferes with the fast idle connector rod. I moved it to a rear screw) The Air Horn is completed and attached. next post will finish up the job installing the rods.

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 14. Rebuild the Bowl Cover Assembly. (Part 2) The next few steps will be installing and adjusting these parts. 14AA. Insert the bowl cover strainer into the strainer nut and gasket assembly. Tighten with a 3/4" wrench. 14BB. Install the needle seat with a needle seat gasket using a flat blade screwdriver. 14CC. Hang the needle valve from the float and slowly lower the needle valve into the needle valve seat. 14DD. Install the float lever hinge pin to temporarily install the float so you can make float level adjustments before the bowl lid gasket is installed. 14EE. Install the fuel line fitting. 14FF. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENTS. There are two float adjustments: Lateral and Vertical. For both adjustments, you invert the bowl cover with NO GASKET and check that the float lip is resting against the seated needle. Basically, you need to be sure both pontoons measure 3/16" from the center solder seam of the floats (top of the float) to the machined edge of the bare metal casting on both sides. This ensures the float sits LEVEL (lateral adjustment) and at the correct HEIGHT (Vertical Adjustment). There is a proper float height adjustment tool for this. I just measured with a ruler. Any discrepancies are adjusted by gently bending the arms. The 3/16" is for the 608S and 608SA and maybe other carburetors, your model may differ. 14GG. Time to place the new bowl cover gasket. Note the notch lines up with the positive in the pump cylinder. 14HH. Slide out the float lever pin and remove the float and needle. *** Careful not to upset your lateral and vertical adjustments. 14II. Place the new bowl cover gasket, aligning all ports and checking all orifices are open and not covered by the gasket. 14JJ. Again, hang the needle from the float and lever assembly and guide it into the needle seat. 14KK. Align the hinge holes and insert the float lever pin. 14LL. Turn the cover right side up. Attach the vacumeter piston to the vacumeter piston link by turning it 90 degrees. 14MM. The vacumeter spring fits up inside the vacumeter piston. Drop the spring into the bowl (again!) and watch carefully as you lower the lid down onto the bowl. 14NN. Slide the bowl cover down onto the body, being careful that the vacumeter spring aligns up into the vacumeter piston. Just watch all around that you are not bending your jets, the floats are setting in right.... everything is coming together. 14OO. Secure the bowl cover to the body with six bowl cover attaching screws and lock washers. *** Install the starter switch cable clip to the screw directly above the starter switch. *** Install the brass Carter "608S" data tag under one of the rear screws. Time to install the metering rods. Part No. 75-459 is standard. 75-488 is lean, 75-489 is for high altitude only. 14PP. Last few parts to complete the lid. I used the metering rod itself to gently pull the vacumeter spring away just enough to slide the metering rod through. 14QQ. Same for the other metering rod. Slide it through the spring, the casting and down into the metering rod jets down below. 14RR. Check the action here of all the pump parts. Everything moves freely. 14SS. Install the dust cover using two dust cover attaching screws and lock washers. The Bowl Cover Assembly is complete. Next post will reassemble the Air Horn/Choke....