Gary W

I'm with Matt 100% here. I've been running 50/50 antifreeze/water and I add the No-Rosion at one ounce per quart. (about 13 ounces in my '37 Buick). I run the same mix in my old Fords as well. I do change my radiator fluids every 2-3 years.

Mike I am going to miss following your work. I've enjoyed your progress throughout. A thought about the chassis bracket...... could it be a mounting spot for the steering if the car was shipped overseas? Please keep a positive spirit. Gary

Maybe you can use that cool knurling tool to knurl the proper level once you figure it out. The oil will surely stay in there long enough to see it. Beautiful work, as always!

Here are my brackets for the '37

https://forums.aaca.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=860334

The inner door skin is attached around the perimeter of the door using clips. You need to remove the window garnish molding around the window, and the door/window handles and the armrest/door pull. A thin plastic instrument around the door skin will release the clips so you can remove the door skin. I believe the Buick manual states you can simply remove the upper clips and pull the skin back enough to get at the vent assembly, but I'd be afraid you may crease the cardboard and ruin the door skin. Here's the vent assembly from my 1937: I don't know the year of yours, but I'm sure there are some similarities. (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner)

I would love to hear the back story of the bullet holes! I got my Buick with decal bullet holes all over it! Glass, valve cover, all over the body.... You got the REAL THING!! Love your car! Beautiful lines and great write up. Enjoy following your progress Gary

Maybe a master electric "kill" switch? I mounted mine there as well.

I made the conversion on my '37 and I'm very glad I did. If you start on page 55 on my blog, then the finish is on page 56. Its a fairly complete step-by-step process to convert the marvel to the Carter. Here is page 55, starting the conversion : Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner" Marvel to Carter Part 1: You will see that I made my own throttle rod to actuate the carburetor out of stainless rod, formed in a "z" like pattern to fit under the manifolds... I have since come across an original throttle set up that I am going to fit on the car soon. The marvel attached on the engine side, the Carter attaches on the fender side so a few adjustments had to be made. The other issue I had was that the Carter sat higher, so I could not use the entire stack of gaskets under the Carter or the hood would not close. It hit the air cleaner. But all in all, you'll be happy with the result. If you need any further photos for clarification, please don't hesitate. Gary

I'm enjoying the mold process. Thanks for sharing all your work with us. I don't know if it will help when pouring urethane or rubber, but in our dental practice we pour stone and epoxy models directly on a vibrating plate to shake out the air bubbles as we pour. If you slowly fill the mold while vibrating it, the air bubbles rise up and out. Like I said, your materials may be heavier, but maybe? Also, do you warm your molds prior to pouring to let the material flow a little better? When we cast our crowns, those are poured in a vacuum to help pull the air out of the investment. Keep up the great work and good luck with the new parts. Do you see a day when all these parts are simply 3-D printed? Those machines are amazing. Gary

rear main removed, you can see the bolts that release the flywheel. MARK your flywheel position to the crank, and the pressure plate to the flywheel.

You have two locator pins, the four bolts you got out already, and then two inside the bell housing.

Here's my 1937 Front window vent restoration: Just click the arrow in the upper right corner. (Page 44 of the restoration)

Thanks, but I originally mis-read the tag as a '38.... I went back to edit my original post to correct the year to 1936, and change my 8's to 6's. The photos are definitely a '36 model. Gary

I thought it looked like an "8". A photo of the front would settle the year question.

1936 MOD. 91. (Is that a 91 next to the MOD.?) 91 (if I'm reading it right) is a 6-passenger four-door sedan, trunk back, fender wells) The 36-4919: 36: 1936 4919: Fischer Body Style Number 4 : Buick 9: Series 90 (Limited) 19: 4-door sedan Love to see more photos!!

Matt: Is this the "coach flap" piece you are referencing? My car had a thin metal backer under the fabric that I'm sure if you just find the holes in the body you can make a metal strip to support the fabric. I called it a "front pillar windlace retainer", but I have a photo of the metal strip in the series.

Matt; You are doing a great job with the interior. I'm happy you got instructions. LeBaron sent me boxes of loose fabrics, headliner rolled up in the corner of the box, no instructions at all. My first challenge was to try to figure out the order of operations in some sort of logical sequence. Maybe you should keep those instructions. Someone may need them someday. Keep up the great work! It's so fun to see it all again!

From the 1937 Dealer Service Bulletins: Pages 45 and 46 Pg. 45 "remove the hood"... My hood has a saddle nut in the front and rear, just up under the radio. You'll need some help lifting that monster up and over the car. It's a good idea to have a table waiting to accept the hood when you remove it. Then, after draining the radiator, remove the air cleaner and brace rods, remove all the hoses, the fan, water pump, thermostat housing to clear the front of the block. Pg. 46 Remove the four side bolts and the two top cap screws Cover the block with cardboard to avoid really banging up the core Looks like he straddled the engine, tip the core back and wiggle it free. Thats how Buick says to do it! Hope the information helps Gary

Jakes; The drip shield is installed from the inside with the garnish molding removed. Here is the page of the door being built: Just touch the little arrow in the upper right side. The original design on the window gap is simply a couple rubber bumpers. I got them from Steele and all they do is stop any rattling. I do have the felt channels that I am going to carefully bend to shape and most likely just use an automotive epoxy to install. But for now, I just have the rubber bumpers like original.

Hi James! The overview from the manual. STEP - BY - STEP from my build. Just click the arrow in the upper right corner.

Hi Matt; I think you may get a satisfactory result by woodgraining the ash receivers instead of chroming them. You seem to have the technique down and a little buffing around the upper rim will make them look good as new. I had the outer molding and the door wood grained. The "chrome" box is just the guts that I first cleaned up with my wire wheel, then polished with jewelers rouge. Sorry for the dark photos, I just went out there under the cover, but you get the idea. They look nice with the brown-toned fabrics. Keep up the great work! Gary

On the '37's there is a gasket that surrounds the cowl vent on the cowl. I got it from Steele Rubber and it fits nice. after checking the fit, I applied a very very thin bead of gasket adhesive. See the thin yellow squiggly line Being sure it gets properly seated all around the opening Next, I sat the cowl vent down over the gasket, checked all my gaps were consistent all around, and placed a couple books on there for weight. This allowed the gasket to compress and seat nice and even and allow everything to set up. After 24 hours, I got inside and attached the cowl arms and mechanisms . Gary

When I restored my '37, my headlights were on in the fully off position. Turns out, the plunger just wasn't pushing in all the way, thereby keeping some of the contacts touching all the time. I removed the small (brass?) grommet from the headlight switch and that allowed the plunger to fully seat and that fixed my problem. Dash throttle pull. See that brass base? My headlight switch had that also. Ash receiver... same brass do-dad under the plastic knob I removed that brass trim piece from under the headlight knob, which allowed it to travel further in. By allowing the knob to depress all the way in, the lights go off properly. I never quite figured out if I just had the wrong pull knob for my light switch, but I was getting grey hair trying to figure that thing out. Anyway, that was my fix for my lights being on all the time. Hope it helps Gary