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About Turbosl2

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/21/1984

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    Clifton Park, NY

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  1. Thanks for everyone’s help. I resolved the problem. Brought my starter to our local rebuild shop. Field was dragging on the armature. They cut the armature down to true it up. Rebuilt everything with new bushings, (brushes were good). Cost me $43.87 with tax. Cranks much faster now when cold and no more issues when hot.
  2. I spent the day trying to adjust the choke. I was able to reduce the choke to just barely grabbing above the throttle notch. It was 42deg out all day so that works. I am not sure if the carbon was reduced any on startup. I am starting to think that as stated above it’s the condensation Continuing to wash out the exhaust pipe from when I cleaned the carb. That was a black smoke 💨 for 10mins from the cleaner.
  3. All of the tires were 8-30lbs of roadforce. Def acceptable on this chassis. Only my corvette needs 12lbs of road force. I didn’t have to index any wheels to the tires. I could to reduce it further but you don’t feel anything with a sidewall that size. Each assembly tool between .5-1.5oz of weight, again I could had reduced this but this machine is not necessary for tires like these. I would be wasting my time. I hope this helps. It’s been 3 weeks and not one psi change in air pressure.
  4. I will give this a try. I read the service manual and didn’t realize this is adjustable.
  5. Old didn’t come out that easy. Bobs glass custom cut new for $140, I chose green vs stock clear
  6. I just did this as well. My 41 40 series had a one piece gasket with rubber where that wood block goes in BobH’s picture. I did the install myself similar to described above. 3M bedding and glazing is a must. My window was a real tight fit around the body since I didn’t have a convertible. So tight I had to push pretty hard as it goes in from the inside. It leaked when I was done still. Required additional bedding and glazing around the SS trim where it met the body on the outside, even though I put the trim on with this in the Chanel. Pretty easy to touch up. Some mineral spirits took off all the excess I smeared on the car from trying to get the tip around the perimeter of the trim.
  7. 1941 Special series 40. I cleaned the carb with sea foam treatment using the aerosol upper engine cleaner hose in the carb and the bottle in the gas tank. I ran the gas tank empty after 115 miles (15.5 gal, yikes but I did do a lot of idling as this was the first drive of the year). refilled the tank with 91 non ethanol as usual. This treatment really helped smooth out the tip in throttle and responsiveness however now every time I start the car from a cold start my concrete is black full of soot and water/gas condensate on the floor. The car surges for the first 2mins until then it’s smooth as can be. This black soot and rich condition only happens when the engine is started cold. I never remembered this happening before. I would definitely noticed it before because if I back the car in my garage wall and first row of cinder block turns black! Thoughts?
  8. I oiled the wiper motor with some light weight oil using a syringe and 2” piece of vacuum hose. This worked awesome and the wipers were working great, 2hrs later back to their normal barely moving operation.
  9. All fixed. Replacing the 4 bolts that hold the vent to the brackets did the trick. Pull the lever back hard and it locks down hard and no leaks! Thanks guys
  10. I have not been able to duplicate this issue yet to try out the advice. Short trips around town don’t do it. I need to be on a long haul.
  11. I ordered that part just to have in case, maybe I need it maybe I don’t but scared to pull the plate out
  12. The plate did move freely but I could tell it had some where. What does it take to remove the plate? Can I leave the points and condenser connected just pull the wires that connect to the distributor housing? I never set points so I am worried about messing with it
  13. I spent a few hours today working on the timing. Well I could not see the marks at first with my crap timing light so I spun it over with a breaker bar until I saw some yellow paint and added some white to the hashed area. Prior to this I was turning the distributor to try and get the mark to show up. So I can’t say if the engine was timed or not prior to me moving it. It is in time now between 0-2deg. I can’t say I see much of a difference with idle speed. It’s def smooth and low but it was like that before to. I took it for a 6 mile trip and it runs much better that’s for sure. It still has the slightest surge when WOT on the highway climbing a hill, but it’s so minimal...or the engine just wasn’t hot enough most of the time I feel this. Either way so far it seems better. I never go WOT but that’s the easiest way to make this problem present itself I also checked the vacuum retard and here is what I found. When I apply vacuum I can push the plunger in with a screwdriver but without vacuum it’s to hard. Seems like I am pushing against a 10lb spring...with the vacuum it feels like a 1lb spring. No vacuum your barely moving it. This was with the plate connected and disconnected. The vacuum comes from the carb and I am surprised it actually is enough to move the distributor at all or carb can even draw much vacuum.
  14. I am not using tubes. The tubes in my pictures were to help stretch the beads out in the sun.
  15. It’s highly possible I am wasting my time. Overall I have no idea where the base timing is set or if the vacuum retard is working