Patrick 1930 Buick

Started prepping the radiator and fuel tank. The radiator was perfect except I will need to resolder the top filler tube. The fuel tank is seriously bent and rusted through. Although I tried to fix it, I thinking if I can’t find a reasonable replacement, I may need to put a fuel cell inside. This would keep the original look and provide a place for the electric fuel pump. This is one of those things the next owner can bring it into compliance and not slow me down. I have another radiator which is seriously in need for repair, but if anyone has nothing, I could part with it. Follow up: Sadly, both radiators are no good and we will have to place an after market radiator to keep the project moving forward.

Do you have any of these parts still?

Jack, I’m working on the same car. Check out Pat’s Buick (https://forums.aaca.org/profile/166004-patrick-1930-buick/).

Installed engine, transmission, attached drive, and brake linkages. My father had made some of the wood components and left them for us to complete and install. Next steps are to complete the cooling, exhaust, fuel, mechanical and minimal electrical.

It looks pretty good. My biggest concern was to over or under bend it.

Yes, I didnt see the email till today. Yes, I have The over-head valve assembly, cylinder block section, valve cover, push-rod cover and intake manifold. They need some work and are rough and it looks like the cylinder block needs repair from a freeze.

Yes, the parts are still available.

Fixing the Drop Axle! After some research, We decided to fix the drop axle. Research suggested we could do it hot or cold. The driver side camber was fine, so we decided to bring the passenger side to be the same or at least close. The wheel obviously leaned out. The axle is mounted and clamped on the engine hoist as close to the fulcrum as possible. The hardest part was to figure out how much of a correction and to monitor the fix while it was hot. We went simple by leveling the axel and using a water filled tube attached to the spindle end. As kids, my father had called the tube with water an Egyptian water level. I felt confident this would have been what he would do since this is his car, his barn, his tubing and his dream. We observed a 3/8 inch required correction at the tip of the spindle. We used a 500K btu propane torch to heat it. With metal plates and sand packed around the axle we made a fire box to focus the heat and protect work area. It took about 6/7 min before one of our aluminum heat shields started to melt, so before it failed, we used the engine hoist to pull it up. The fire box was covered with fiberglass insulation to permit slow cooling.

Im looking for a few parts: brake drum bearing and seal parts: thrust washer front bearing, dust/oil seal for front and rear drums, oil seal retainer parts rear drum. See picks to compare available parts. Tire bolts, nuts and wedges. See Pic. Oil seal fan-belt pully. Im trying to understand how to rebuild the fan oiler. It appears theres a seal near the mounting bracket and I don’t know how to repair or what I can do. It looks like some kind of rope can be wrapped and packed. Has anyone ever restored the fan oiler. any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Current status:

The bolt head height is a little smaller, so I would replace all of them on a wheel to keep it uniform.

You still have these? Do you think they would work with 1930 model 47?

Hi, do you still have any of these parts?

Looks like it to me. I found the engine paint my father had purchased so I went with it.